hagge Posted August 24, 2013 Share Posted August 24, 2013 (edited) Is it possible to cranc the torsion bars moore than this without damaging the cv joints? I have seen low profile bumpstops. The right front wheel is turned right... Edited August 24, 2013 by hagge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted August 24, 2013 Share Posted August 24, 2013 You could go more than it appears they are cranked in that pic. I wouldn't recommend going much more. The lower control arm already looks like it is angled down pretty good. I see you have aftermarket control arm, and about a 1/4" maybe slightly more of clearance between the upper arm and the bump stop. If you just drove the truck on the street and only went four wheeling occasionally the CV axles would probably last a while, if you 4 wheel all the time they probably are not going to last long. I like to keep my suspension sitting with the lower control arms like they look in my picture below, maybe slightly more of a downward angle, I still have stock control arms and the stock size 31's in this pic: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted August 24, 2013 Share Posted August 24, 2013 I run more lift up front due to low profile bump stops and 1" balljoint spacers, but I have lifetime cvs from napa and they have held up fine for 4 years now. I do wheel quite a bit but I am more of a crawler, I don't bash my truck around too much. Installing differential drop Bushings will be good extra insurance if you plan to go higher...I plan to install them after I move and have more time but haven't had any issues yet with 2wd steering , 1" balljoint spacers, ultra low pro bump stops and about 3.5" front torsion bar crank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 24, 2013 Share Posted August 24, 2013 Yea, the only problem I have had with the CV's is the boots cracking from age. I never had one fail from the angle and I had my truck lifted a while. I have one lifetime cv shaft but I lost the damn receipt! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagge Posted August 25, 2013 Author Share Posted August 25, 2013 Thanks for your answers! Is it much work to change to front diff drop bushings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted August 25, 2013 Share Posted August 25, 2013 In short, yes. Lol. That's why I'm waiting for the move to be over.. Basically, easiest way for me is to remove the torsion bars,remove front shocks, then u can bend the cvs out of your way, then drop the front differential. Then u need to press/burn the bushings out and then fit the new drop Bushings in the correct places. In my opinion though, its totally worth it. 5/8-3/4" drop of the front diff really helps the cv angles from what I've seen and they aren't expensive. Just a lot of work.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagge Posted September 5, 2013 Author Share Posted September 5, 2013 Hi again! The reason i want more lift in the front is because the rear is much higher than the front after the 3" SL from 4x4parts. The rear is about 4cm (1.5 inch) higher. It doesnt look very nice...like a dragracer... im looking at the front diff drop as an option but it seems to be a little out of my mechanical skills. I am also thinking about lowering the rear a bit to get it even and then maybe lift the body 1". Or maybe remove the rubber pads between the springs and the upper spring mount, and then crank a little extra up in front. Do you think that would even it out a bit? Another question: I noticed that my rear bump stops are missing, have you guys yours left? Or replaced the stock ones? i have removed the rear swaybar so i guess my tires will get stuck in the inner fenders if pushed far enough? Thanks Andreas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 Do you have or can you take a pic showing both lower control arms and how they are sitting now? Are the springs you installed in the rear new? if so they will probably settle slightly. But if you already have the front cranked up and the upper control arms are close or sitting on the stock bump stops than you could replace them with the low profile ones to get more lift. The truck will ride very stiff though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagge Posted September 5, 2013 Author Share Posted September 5, 2013 (edited) Here is a picture with both lower controll arms: https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1796_187031248145789_1771869572_n.jpg Edited September 5, 2013 by hagge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagge Posted September 6, 2013 Author Share Posted September 6, 2013 Dont know if the link above works... Here is the lower controll arms again: What do you think...possible to crank a bit more? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted September 7, 2013 Share Posted September 7, 2013 Your lower control arms are angled down pretty good in that pic !! It must ride rough the way it is now. You can raise the front more as I said by replacing the bump stops under the upper control arms to the low profile ones but it will have almost no downward suspension travel, these trucks don't have very much to begin with. It will ride even worse the higher you make the front end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gv280z Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 Hagge, how much lift on your front end anyway? I'm thinking of doing this also but I want to be careful about it. Yours looks kinda extreme to me, how many inches did you get on the front? Is that 2 or 3 inch or what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagge Posted September 8, 2013 Author Share Posted September 8, 2013 ahardb0dy, I tried to crank one full rotation on the bolts last night. Witch gave me about 1cm at the wheel...but now its only 0.25" (6mm) between the control arm and bump stop. As you said the ride might be a little bit rougher. But to my surprise it seems a lot steadier on the road, almost no tracking and the bump steering is almost completely gone... Could it be that my upper control arms from 4x4parts is built to be in this steep angle? Dont know if i can leave it like this.... gv280z, I got new upper control arms from 4x4parts witch gives a correct camber alignment when lifting. They said that it would give 3" of lift when 0.5" (12mm) space between the upper arm and the bump stop. But that gave me only 2" of lift. And at the same time the new lift springs in the back gave me about 3.5" lift. Thanks Hagge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted September 8, 2013 Share Posted September 8, 2013 it may ride better or feel like it rides better, but with only a 1/4" between the arm and bumpstop wait to one of the tires hits a dip in the road or trail you will definetly know/feel it than ! Did you get or do you have already the low profile bump stops? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hagge Posted September 9, 2013 Author Share Posted September 9, 2013 Yes you were right...was out driving on a gravel road today and i know what you mean now... Ordered low profile bump stops today. Also looked at new cv drive shafts jn case i need new, they are so much cheaper in the US than over here. Thinking of buying 2 for spare. i have changed the outer boots on both sides, so i dont think they will last that long... Can you recommend a brand? Anyone know if NAPA has any retailers that ship to europe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 Good you ordered the low profile bump stops, at least you will get SOME travel. No idea on parts suppliers in Sweden, can't help you with that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93_ditchfindah Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 how much were the new uca's from 4x4parts.com? dont wanna pay more then about 200:/ im in us so shudnt be too much to ship and the reason you only got about 2" of lift hagge is you probably didnt reindex your torsion bars. takes about 30 min. each side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
APACHECHIEF13 Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 The UCA from 4x4parts is 200 plus tax witch is 238 I think tax and all Sent from my Z795G using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nissanland Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 If you want to, go to readers rides and look at ( my 95 pathfinder xe build) and look at the before and after pictures. I used the ac uca, and the rest of the lift kit, I run 32inch duratrac's easily with 3 inch of lift. I know alot of people don't think it's a good lift. I'm telling you for the money it works great. I'm going to say it will stiffen the ride slightly, but in a good way. Btw, get the low profile bump stops also, makes things easier/better for adjusting the front end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 Nothing wrong with the AC lift, The first lift "kit's for these trucks consisted only of ball joint spacers, than Jim Connor Racing came out with the modified UCA's which consisted of a stock arm with a welded in ball joint spacer and the bottom of the arm's were boxed in for support, ( I had these on my 87 Hardbody) later JCR came out with the tubular arms that supposedly had the ball joint mounting area modified so when the torsion bars were cranked to provide lift the ball joint would remain at a decent angle. When JCR closed their shop, all the parts and designs were sold to 4x4 parts and they continue to make the same tubular UCA's. It's funny some products on the 4X4 parts site still use the same pics that JCR originally took. You can crank the bars as far as you want, but the problem always will be, the higher you go equals the less space between the UCA and the bump stop, once the UCA contacts the bump stop ( and I have seen trucks set up this way), you have zero downward travel, so as I said if your driving along on a rough road, and the tire drops into a hole, with no downward travel you feel it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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