rollingrock Posted December 10, 2012 Author Share Posted December 10, 2012 (edited) Guys...this was on the back of the alt...but I dont' remember where. It looks loke it was looped to itself based on the marks Posted by Samsung Galaxy S3 Edited December 10, 2012 by rollingrock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 10, 2012 Author Share Posted December 10, 2012 I've had the bearings seize on the freeway with dual belts. It sounded like someone was slaughtering a pig under the hood... I have to ask, did you stop and make sure you weren't in 4x4? The lever was in the proper position? The hubs were unlocked? If so, this is pretty odd... B The light came on this morning before I even left the ranch...i did some tests, put into 4 wh then out then back to 4l and back to 2h...light never went out but got dimmer. When in 4x4 it is brighter. When i dropped off my deer at the processor they have a big gravel lot, I turned my wheels all the way tot he right and gunned it, the fronts did not spin. Yup, I have issues. Right now I am stock with this new alternator. I was panicking getting it off as my wife was holding it from the top and was about to drop it on my face...pardon the joke, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 I can show you a pic of where it went on my Maxima alternator I got from the junkyard, the conclusion was leave it off although a few said leave it on. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31339-maxima-alternator-swap-do-i-need-this/page__hl__alternator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 The light came on this morning before I even left the ranch...i did some tests, put into 4 wh then out then back to 4l and back to 2h...light never went out but got dimmer. When in 4x4 it is brighter. When i dropped off my deer at the processor they have a big gravel lot, I turned my wheels all the way tot he right and gunned it, the fronts did not spin. Yup, I have issues. Right now I am stock with this new alternator. I was panicking getting it off as my wife was holding it from the top and was about to drop it on my face...pardon the joke, I would suspect something is up with the sensor for the 4x4 light. You said the transmission was rebuilt? So they probably had all that out, I would check that switch. It is on the side of the tcase somewhere. I'm not sure where though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 10, 2012 Author Share Posted December 10, 2012 Ok update guys I got it all back together and started it up...it sounds so much better. ...the timing belt is still whinning a tad but no more screeching. So I had the neg off the batter while I was changing the belts and ALT. I figured it may clear the ECM...nope, all the lights are back on. Yes AdamZan...this is a new tranny and my 4x4 has worked for the 3 or so weeks that I have had it...this morning out of the blue its on. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 10, 2012 Author Share Posted December 10, 2012 Another update...I just jacked the front up to add anti seize to the 4x4 hub bolts...before I took the tire off...it was spinning freely so I know it wasn't engaged in 4x4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 I'd check the connections on the side of the transfer case. There are a couple switches. My buddies 93 had a flickering 4x4 light and then we went wheeling last weekend he put it in 4WD and no light at all. Climbed underneath and a wire had broken from the neutral switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 10, 2012 Author Share Posted December 10, 2012 I'd check the connections on the side of the transfer case. There are a couple switches. My buddies 93 had a flickering 4x4 light and then we went wheeling last weekend he put it in 4WD and no light at all. Climbed underneath and a wire had broken from the neutral switch. I will look again, but I did quickly look...looks like a bunch of stuff on the passenger side of tranny...or are you talking about transfer case...oh wait, read it again...ok, I didn't look there yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 I did find these two open plugs...based on hayes book...the smaller one is the "control wire" for the abs system...why would it be unplugged? Posted by Samsung Galaxy S3 Those are the connectors for the ABS diagnostic/serviceport. They are supposed to be like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 update...I did add some fluid to the resovoir. It was about half an inch below max. Keep an eye on it. If if keeps loosing fluid you need to hunt down the reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 The light came on this morning before I even left the ranch...i did some tests, put into 4 wh then out then back to 4l and back to 2h...light never went out but got dimmer. When in 4x4 it is brighter. hmmm...I see you went into 4L out of curiosity, go 2H-4H, then to neutral. shift to 4L, but back in drive, go forward 20 feet or so, then stop shift back to neutral and shift to 2H. After switching back to 2H, put the truck in reverse and back up at least 10 feet. See if that clears the light out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 I think the brake, battery, and A/T OIL TEMP (if equipped) will light up if your alternator is dying. That is correct on a WD21. If you haven't changed the brake fluid within the past two years, it wouldn't hurt to do so since brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture over time, lowering the boiling point of the fluid. Changing it every 2 years is a reasonable time interval. For WD21s, the brake bleeding order is: 1. LSV air bleeder (Models equipped with LSV) 2. Left rear brake 3. Right rear brake 4. Left front brake 5. Right front brake 6. R-ABS actuator (Models equipped with R-ABS) I'm pretty sure WD21s don't have LSVs, only D21 (Hardbodies), so ignore that. Good point made here, no telling when/how old the brake fluid in the truck is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 Looking at the ABS wiring schematic.... both brake and ABS light on constantly can be: ABS relay (engine bay) ABS Fuse (under LH dash) Parking brake switch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 Parking brake switch Ahah!! I'm willing to bet... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 11, 2012 Author Share Posted December 11, 2012 Hey boys, quick update. I sure do love Courtesy Nissan in Dallas...they took back all my parts with no questions asked. We called a Master Tech out and he said something that may shock all of you. I have a VG30I engine with a Fuel Injected system making it a VG30E "like" engine. LOL They didn't make many of these but that is what I have. Anyone shocked? So that has been the reason why some of the parts are a little off. While I was there, I picked up some odds and ends that I was looking for . New Bolts for fan, new fan, 4x4 neurtal switch thingie majigger. I cannot swap it out I need a special wrench with a lot of offset. I gotta buddy to help me there. The master tech told me that the Brake Light and ABS light are tied together...and that I need a new sensor....300 bucks...I think I will wait on that one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 87-89's have VG30I's and 90-95's have VG30E's....so what is this special motor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 Hey boys, quick update. I sure do love Courtesy Nissan in Dallas...they took back all my parts with no questions asked. We called a Master Tech out and he said something that may shock all of you. I have a VG30I engine with a Fuel Injected system making it a VG30E "like" engine. LOL They didn't make many of these but that is what I have. Anyone shocked? So that has been the reason why some of the parts are a little off. While I was there, I picked up some odds and ends that I was looking for . New Bolts for fan, new fan, 4x4 neurtal switch thingie majigger. I cannot swap it out I need a special wrench with a lot of offset. I gotta buddy to help me there. The master tech told me that the Brake Light and ABS light are tied together...and that I need a new sensor....300 bucks...I think I will wait on that one. I'm not sure how he could tell unless he ran the motor number (do the Pathy motors even have numbers)? If this is true, it's not the original motor, but one out of a 1989 or earlier and retrofitted with the 90 and later systems. No big deal really. What parts needed to be returned due to the motor year? Something isn't making sense yet. Are you sure you needed the neutral switch, meaning it was tested and failed? How about the sensor? I'm not knocking the Master Tech, but it seems a bit off the hip. Just trying to help you... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 I think its the "didn't make many of these" that has me confused. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 11, 2012 Author Share Posted December 11, 2012 Ok, so this is what he said when he came out to help me diagnose a few things. He said, b/c my truck didn't have the black cover on the one side of the engine it meant that I had a "I" that was upgraded at the factory with a fuel injection system. He also said, Nissan calls it an "E" but its really an updated "I". My plate on in the engine bay also stats "E" but parts don't match up. That would explain why my Timing belt was Square vs round..... I don't know what the part is called. I could snap a photo if that would help. That all said, this is my theory on what we are dealing with here. I personally think that the timing belt has been changed in the last 50K or so miles...and that whomever did it, replaced the timing belt pullys with older "I" square ones and didn't get the rounded "E" ones b.c they didn't know the difference. This could also explain why my timing may be a tad off. Good theory? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 11, 2012 Author Share Posted December 11, 2012 I'm not sure how he could tell unless he ran the motor number (do the Pathy motors even have numbers)? If this is true, it's not the original motor, but one out of a 1989 or earlier and retrofitted with the 90 and later systems. No big deal really. What parts needed to be returned due to the motor year? Something isn't making sense yet. Are you sure you needed the neutral switch, meaning it was tested and failed? How about the sensor? I'm not knocking the Master Tech, but it seems a bit off the hip. Just trying to help you... B P1....I bought the sensor on a guess it was the right thing to replace. Due to the condition of it. I will go snap a photo and show you. It's beat on pretty good. And I didn't discuss this particular problem with the tech bc the two sensors are so low in cost I felt I should just give it a try. What I returned to the dealership was all the belts, including timing belt and a few other things that were not right. I bought an "E" timing belt kit and all the belts are wrong. They are too big and don't fit properly in the pulleys. It was making all kinds of noise. I gotta say this has been some fun...(Sarcasm) and more of a comedy of errors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 Post a pic of your motor. My curiosity runs wild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 11, 2012 Author Share Posted December 11, 2012 Posted by Samsung Galaxy S3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 Oh. And in 93 they changed the timing belt. Some 93's had square tooth, some had round tooth. That explains that easily enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rollingrock Posted December 11, 2012 Author Share Posted December 11, 2012 Posted by Samsung Galaxy S3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 (edited) Is he talking about the valve cover should be black? Because my buddies 93 is that same color. Mine is black, I have a 94. Thats a VG30E as far as I'm concerned. Edited December 11, 2012 by Trogdor636 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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