jdubs12 Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 Hi guys, I recently bought a 95 pathfinder and am having a lot of problems with the steering/ front suspension. I barely know anything about trucks and am trying to do what I can myself so I learn... it was recently looked a by a mechanic who suggested I get new tie rods, idler arm, center link, and ball joints. My friend recommended a steering dampener as well since the tires are larger then stock... I plan on buying everything at once and devoting a chunk of my life to installing all this, but I cannot find anything on how to put in a steering dampener - currently there isnt one. Any thoughts/help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 There are 2 fairly simple and easy ways. The first is you can get the OEM pin from nissan for about 20 dollars, and a monroe stabilizer from partsource or whatever for about 40-50. The other was is to get an aftermarket kit. In my experience, (I went from a stock monroe replacement, to a rancho aftermarket) the aftermarket ones are stiffer and better if you do a lot of offroading. What kind of problems are you having? What size are your tires? I have used up to 33" tires without a dampener with no issues. Crappy streets and off-road is where you will notice it most. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdubs12 Posted November 5, 2012 Author Share Posted November 5, 2012 I have 31s, I dont know if it is necessary it is just a suggestion he made. Do you know if the calmini HD steering kit is worth the $$, or should I just order all the parts from MOOG - thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 (edited) 31 inch tires are a factory size option, I would recommend replacing what you need using OEM or Moog parts, of course OEM is more money but Moog makes good parts. I would not bother with the factory steering stabilizer, others may argue but I think you would be better off using one by Rancho. Check out rockauto.com if you don't know about it already, the parts are a lot cheaper than local parts stores and you can get a 5% off code to take off your whole order. Their customer service is very good and shipping is quick. They also sell the Rancho steering stabilizers. I would also suggest downloading the Factory service manual it's under the garage section on here, click on your year, each section, when it opens save each section into a folder and you will have the complete manual for FREE. Steering parts at rockauto are here: http://www.rockauto....ramecatalog.php service manual here: http://www.nicoclub....995_Pathfinder/ Edited November 5, 2012 by ahardb0dy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 it was recently looked a by a mechanic who suggested I get new tie rods, idler arm, center link, and ball joints. Well, it seems like the mechanic was saying "just replace everything" figuring that would solve the problem, and he is probably right but I'd be surprised if all of that was worn out at once. From what I understand, you don't want the Moog idler arm, it is not as good as the stock one, so just order the bushings/seals and rebuild it (cheaper too). Also, a commonly overlooked item is the tension rod (lower control arm back to frame) bushings. Even when they look ok from the outside, they are usually damaged. I highly recommend a second opinion and changing a few thing at a time; the tension rod bushings and whatever has obvious play or damage in it. Download the FSM pinned in the Garage section and look at the exploded view so you can see it all. It's actually not that complicated. There are a couple A arms, a couple anchor points and the rest is just linkage and pivot points hanging in the breeze. What ever you can move is probably worn... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdubs12 Posted November 5, 2012 Author Share Posted November 5, 2012 sweet thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 I had a local alignment/tire place do what they said my front end needed. Upper and lower ball joints, centerlink, TREs, idler, alignment (my uncle and I did the strut rod bushings later). I don't remember the exact figure but it wasn't cheap (more than the Calmini kit IIRC). But the ball joints were cracked and oozing grease, and it wandered pretty badly. I didn't get the chance to check over the parts they pulled and see which of them were really the problem. They probably weren't all hammered, but my dad paid the bill (said he didn't want me wrenching on stuff that could kill me/others if I buggered it) so I didn't ask a lot of questions. I think it's better than it was before, but it's not dead tight yet. The shop suggested that the rear link bushings might be wearing out, which is consistent with what I've read on here. Maybe this spring I'll tear into those. If you notice the looseness mostly on bumps, this might be something to check out on yours. The centerlink should have a little tab on it where the stabilizer mounts. Should be in the FSM. I hear stabilizers make it ride better, but don't just throw one on and ignore the other issues! The stock system is a little sketchy if you plan to lift the truck or wheel it hard. If not, it's probably adequate. The Calmini kit looks like a much better design. This might be relevant: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 I put the rancho version on my truck after replacing all the steering components up front. My only complaint (as it is very beefy) is having to grind off the factory tab on the centerlink. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdubs12 Posted November 5, 2012 Author Share Posted November 5, 2012 I have a somewhat stupid question...I am looking at the rockauto site for parts and considering buying tie rods, I can only find left hand threads, inner - and for outer right hand threads. Can I not just order two of each and they will work for both sides? They dont have right hand threads, inner etc. RAYBESTOS Part # 4011682 Professional Grade Left Hand Threads; Inner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 just get 2 of each, the inners are left hand thread the outers right hand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdubs12 Posted November 6, 2012 Author Share Posted November 6, 2012 k in keeping with the questions...should I buy a tie rod end adjusting sleeve as well? and then I guess I would get two right? also is a strut rod bushing the same as replacing the tension rod bushing? and again I should order two eh? also I since I am ordering tie rods, tie rod adjusters, centerlink and strut rod bushings should I also do the ball joints (why not blow the bank and save on shipping)... how many do I need, 2 upper and 2 lower? Does the centerlink have balljoints that need to be replaced or am I just starting to confuse myself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdubs12 Posted November 6, 2012 Author Share Posted November 6, 2012 and would you go with MOOG or raybestos professional grade? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 If your going to replace everything than you need a centerlink, inner and outer tie rod ends, your adjusting sleeves are probably fine, if you want all new than replace those too. 2 upper and 2 lower ball joints, idler arm, on 2wd trucks it's called a tension rod, on 4wd it's a compression rod part number for Moog is either K200163 or K9515, I don't see a difference between the 2 part numbers it just says the K9515 supercedes the other part number. One kit does both sides. Nothing to replace on the centerlink, just buy a new one if you need it and replace yours for the new one, that's the problem with Nissan centerlinks compared to say Toyota, on the Nissan part the ball joint parts (not sure what exactly they are called) are on the centerlink so when they wear you have to replace the centerlink, on the Toyota part it just has the holes so nothing wears on the centerlink itself. As to brand, I personally use Beck/Arnley, I guess it's up to each person and how much you want to spend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 For the tension/compression/strut (so many names!) rods, you'll likely need to replace the cups that hold the bushings in place. I had my uncle weld a set of L6811 bearing cups to mine, as the stock cups were busted and rusted out and holding on pretty much out of habit. Check out the thread (I think it's Tungsten's 'does this qualify as good strut rod repair' thread) before diving into yours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdubs12 Posted November 6, 2012 Author Share Posted November 6, 2012 Do I need any special tools for doing all this work (I love an excuse to buy tools) my buddy said I should check if I will need to press the ball joints or compression rod bushings in. I tried finding that post - will try again after class Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 No need to press the ball joints in unless you own a 2WD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/32546-how-to-replace-strut-rod-bushings/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted November 6, 2012 Share Posted November 6, 2012 A pickle fork is nice for the ball joints although not required. I found the pickle fork I bought at Crappy tire was not "tall" enough for the lower joint. The ball joints bolt to the control arm so no press needed. The strut rods you will need a 24mm or 15/16ths wrench as you can't get a socket on the nut on the end of the rod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdubs12 Posted November 6, 2012 Author Share Posted November 6, 2012 you guys are the bomb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 i recently replaced the comp rod bushings on my 94 and the cups were perfect so yours could be as well, I've had good luck when separating ball joints to hit the joint on the side with a hammer usually the shock will pop them loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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