Iceman2989 Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 I've posted my problem on here before, but I'll be tackling the project soon now and so I come seeking more advice. My tcase chain is in a million pieces inside my tcase from overuse with little to no oil. I learned that although they're attatched, the tcase and tranny dont share oil... learned it the hard way. Stupid. Anyway, because I don't know the exact extent of damage to the gears and other stuff inside my transfer case, I've decided to just go ahead and replace the whole thing. (plus the chain is 300 bucks, but a whole transfer case at the local JY is only 150) SO, to tackle this (I've never dealt with something like this before), Does anybody have advice for what to have on hand? I'm not sure what all I'll need as in like grease or silicone or anti-seize stuff for the bolts or anything... All my grease monkey friends are out of town for summer vacation but when they get back for this next semester in a few weeks is when I'd like to get this rolling, and I want to have most everything ready to go by then. Thanks in advance for your help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KovemaN Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 PB Blaster or Kroil are good for getting things un-stuck, but you shouldn't have too much trouble with the bolts. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 A tube of silicone to seal the transfer case back to the transmission, enough gear oil for the transfer case and the trans if it's a 5 speed and a big ass jack because that thing is heavy! James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathybuilder Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 Disconnecting the electrical plugs always give me problems, although I don't have any solutions for this. A friend is helpful to keep it balanced on the big ass jack to get it to the ground, you can also use a ratchet strap. Don't know about crossmembers and whatnot on your R-50 though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 you can pull the tx10 off the tranny while its on the vehicle. Pull off your t-bar cross member but leave your tranny supported the the tranny cross member. I actually pulled the tail housing off my new and old t-case when removing and installing to make it less awkward. I did not have a transmission jack and the thing weights 110 lbs. once bolted and sealed to the tranny I put the tail housing back on. I had also rebuilt my spare tx10 before I put it on and replaced all the seals... Input, rear output, front output, shift shaft etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman2989 Posted August 19, 2012 Author Share Posted August 19, 2012 great to know, thanks for your help guys. I'll try and post some pictures if I'm able to take any once I get this project going. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman2989 Posted September 30, 2012 Author Share Posted September 30, 2012 Okay! The time has come! I purchased the new-to-me transfer case the other day, and this week I'll be starting on taking the old one out and replacing it. My1path, how long did it take you to do that work you did? I just wanna unbolt, replace, and rebolt. Any idea how long it should take? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 (edited) If you are unsure of any electrical connections and there are multiple plugs that are the same size same number of pins just label them with a pc of tape or take a perm marker and put 1 dot on each half of one plug, 2 dots on each half of the next and so on. Usually ( but not always) the plugs are different shapes, sizes and number of pins so mixing them up won't happen, USUALLY. When I had the trans rebuilt in my 87 hardbody the first time and I picked it up from the tranny shop it wasn't down shifting right, turns out they had 2 plugs mixed up, I swapped them and than it was fine. I don't think there are many plugs on the transfer case though Edited September 30, 2012 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathybuilder Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 I don't think there are many plugs on the transfer case though Should be just three. Your speedometer / 2WD Switch / and 4LO Switch, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 Be sure you change the fluid after installation and change it regularly (every 30k miles or so). I would use Nissan Matic D only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman2989 Posted October 1, 2012 Author Share Posted October 1, 2012 good advice for marking the plugs. I noticed that there were three, thats a good way to not mix em up. By taking out the transfer case, I shouldnt need to drain the trans right? They're not internally connected, so it should just be an unbolt, rebolt, fill with fluid, good to to type of project right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathybuilder Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 (edited) I'm pretty sure you do need to drain the transmission. They aren't internally connected, however the separation between the two is at the matting surface to the transfer case. If you don't drain the transmission fluid you'll have a pretty messy job on your hands. As far as time goes, just to unbolt, remove and replace, I would say you can do it in a day. Remove rear drive shaft, front drive shaft, drain t-case and tranny oil, unbolt the shift lever, mark and remove your three electrical plugs, unbolt and drop to the floor. Reverse procedure putting the other case in. Beware of the alignment dowels that will stay with either the t-case or the transmission (pretty sure the t-case has them as well). I did a transmission swap a couple years ago where some of the alignment dowels stayed with the bell housing and some with the engine. These were the opposite dowels that were in the used transmission I was putting in. It made fitment interesting to say the least. Just check before throwing it in place. Also I don't know if the R-50s have different size tires depending on model, but if your used t-case came out of a model with different size tires from factory, you may want to swap your speedometer sensor over before you put it in. Edited October 1, 2012 by pathybuilder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 (edited) When I swapped crawler gears into my transfer case, I didn't need to drain the tranny fluid. The output of the tranny is a splined shaft that fits onto the front input of the t-case. Both the tranny and t-case are sealed. On the other hand, I did have to remove nearly all of the front interior (seats, center console, lower dash parts) to remove the plate over the top of the shifter, in order to access the top 4 bolts. Edited October 1, 2012 by XPLORx4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 I was going to say I thought the trans and transfer case were both sealed as both use different fluid, but not being 100% sure I didn't. at least with your pic you can see they are sealed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathybuilder Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 (edited) There must be a difference between R50 and WD21 then, or Auto vs Manual, cause here's a photo of the my transmission / t-case mating surface, definitely not sealed on the 5 speed. They are sealed from each other, and do use different fluids, but the seal is at the mating surface, so you need to drain the oil. I did the crawler gear swap as well. I could reach the mounting bolts, but 2" Body Lift helps. Edited October 2, 2012 by pathybuilder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman2989 Posted October 2, 2012 Author Share Posted October 2, 2012 xplorx4, you had to take out the whole interior to get to the top bolts?? Was there no way else to get to them? If there is, I would love to know.. Hoping to get started on this tomorrow. And Im guessing that the wd21s and the r50s are pretty different from the responses I'm getting... Its a different tcase isnt it? the r50 has the tx10, I know that much, but Ive never dealt with the wd21s at all. please keep chiming in guys, I really appreciate all your $0.02!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 I think the t-cases are the same (TX10), but the transmissions must be different. The WD21 tranny photo above looks nothing like what I remember mine looking like. And I distinctly remember not having to drain fluid or apply sealant or a gasket between the tranny and t-case. As for getting to those top bolts, maybe there's a way, but I must not have had the right combination of tools, knowledge, or experience to figure it out, so it seemed to me that the only way was to gut the interior. It sure was weird looking down at the ground through the middle of the floor when the t-case was out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman2989 Posted October 2, 2012 Author Share Posted October 2, 2012 Thanks for the speedy reply. I'll definitely be trying to get it out without removing everything, that just seems like a pain...haha. Do you by chance have a diagram of all of the bolts that need to come out? I wonder how many there are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 Check the TF section of the factory service manual if you haven't yet, maybe it'll have a useful diagram. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman2989 Posted October 15, 2012 Author Share Posted October 15, 2012 Started this project Saturday, got both drivelines out and 6 of the 14 bolts! Its just a start, but I dont get days off work very often so itll be up on jackstands for a while... The more we look at it the more we're thinking that we'll have to gut the inside too. There isnt exacly a removal diagram in the repair manual, so its guess and check. Did you have to remove that crossmember (not sure if thats the right word to use) that is supporting the transmission in order to get the transfer case out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 When I pulled my t-case, I didn't have to remove any crossmembers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman2989 Posted October 26, 2012 Author Share Posted October 26, 2012 Do I need a new seal for the transfer case to transmission? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 From what I recall, there is no seal between the t-case and tranny. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman2989 Posted October 26, 2012 Author Share Posted October 26, 2012 the napa guy said to use rvt silicone.... was he wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrariowner123 Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 the napa guy said to use rvt silicone.... was he wrong? Your question could not have been asked at a better time, i just went under my pathy to find out the same thing. And from the looks of it, Napa was correct. However, finding out what type of RTV to use is a whole different story, if my t-case ever bothers me enough ill redo it. but i would ring your local dealer, see if their parts department has an equivalent or ring the OP of the GENUINE NISSAN PARTS thread, he's a Nissan part counter rep (i know his name,i just know im going to butcher it if i try to spell it) Hope that helps. -Kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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