Trogdor636 Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 Both sides? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 Of course. The exhaust leak messes with the oxygen sensor reading. $200-300 for studs is not bad at all. You can do it yourself too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted July 21, 2012 Author Share Posted July 21, 2012 Hmmm..I could do it myself.. but what would I need? I'm kinda iffy if ill screw it up or not.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted July 21, 2012 Share Posted July 21, 2012 I was quoted 300-350 for one side....so 300 for both seems pretty good. Check the how to section on exhaust studs. That should help you decide how comfortable you are with the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 There is really nothing to it. Spray the studs down with penetrating oil. Get a right angle drill and a long strong bit. Go slow then take the studs out with EZ out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted August 17, 2012 Author Share Posted August 17, 2012 Okay.. Since I don't have the tools ready.. In just going to let a shop do it.. I as today a friend let me drive his WD21 and holy crap! I didn't know these made that much power. His pushes you back in the seat at full throttle.. Mine just bogs. Okay. I've exhausted all other possible causes for this power loss. And I've noticed my exhaust stud leak is now to the point at idle it hurts your ears to be near it, but underwood. What I'm asking is, but since that leak is so bad.. Can it cause this power loss before I borrow the 300$..thanks everyone.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted August 20, 2012 Author Share Posted August 20, 2012 Its in the shop now.. Said my passenger side manifold looked cracked pretty bad.. And broken exhaust studs on driver side.. Looks like ill be getting manifolds from the jy if that's the case.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 When you get them, make sure you get new gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 ... and make sure that the new manifolds are flat, or those gaskets won't last long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted August 22, 2012 Author Share Posted August 22, 2012 Good news is, they said the manifolds were fine and were able to be re-used. bad news is my y-pipe was also nearly rusted in half..so basically ive been running no exhaust before the o2.. The o2 couldnt have been getting much of a reading, so im guessing thats why my gas mileage has sucked and its had no power..ha! My passenger manifold was nearly a half inch away from the block... It should be done today and ill post back results! Have to say im excited! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted August 22, 2012 Author Share Posted August 22, 2012 (edited) Good news and bad news... Exhaust is fixed now..it sounds 1000% better!! it doesnt tick extremely loudly anymore and idles a lot better.. BUT. we still have the no WOT response..and barely any response anyway. Im not saying that didnt help it, because it did, especially up hills. They said both manifolds are warped but they sealed them and replaced all studs and said it shouldnt leak, if it does, itll need new manifolds. Goods news is, they only charged 80$ and fixed a lot, including my dizzy that wont screw in anymore. They fixed it with a zip tie..not sure how ill fix that. BUT. I have a question. I realize the MAF wiring is still in question, but i DID trade MAFs with a friends pathy and it still drove the same. Also, how do i know if the MAF would be a problem? I took off the air filter and placed my hand over the MAF and when revved up hard, it actually sucked my hand flat against it, so i know its not a air or spark problem. I know, i know this topic is getting old but i dont know what to do anymore!!! Compression is GREAT. Airflow is GREAT. Spark is GREAT (blue spark) Fuel-wise, its running lean. from what i remember from the plugs last. What else is there to do? I know the injectors are spraying fine, well, they spray evenly, but..what else controls the fuel? TPS - replaced and adjusted. EGR - blocked off. ECTS - New Fuel filter in tank - Cleaned Fuel filter in engine bay- replaced over a year ago O2 Sensor - New Knock sensor - New Computer - Swapped with working one, No change IACV - Cleaned Intakes - Cleaned Fuel pressure to the injectors - Good The ONLY thing i can think of that might be a problem is the timing is still set to fully advanced? Can this decrease performance? I dont want to mess with it if it wont help it, as the guy fixed it so it wouldnt move while driving (my screw stripped out) EDIT: I retarded the timing just a slight bit away from fully advanced and it idles lower and just bogs the farther away i go from fully advanced. The guy at the shop swears that the dizzy is a tooth out, but i ddont know. I just know i cant go close to the stock setting of 15BTDC because it dies when i get close to that. Shouldnt it ping if the timing is too far advanced? Can anyone think of anything else?? Again, ill mention this..if you gradually floor it, itll rev up FAST. From an idle (500-600RPM) you floor it hard and quick itll just get loud and the RPMs will either drop some or itll just stay there. From at least 1000RPM flooring it hard, itll slowly rev up higher and higher.. Thanks everyone, i really do appreciate everything everyone has contributed to this... Edited August 22, 2012 by NissanNismoZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 They should of machined down the manifolds so they werent warped? Well for 80 bucks I guess you can't complain much. Why is the dizzy zip tied? Also, if your MAF wiring is messed up, no amount of swapping in the world will fix it. Its the actual wires that plug into your MAF that causes the problems. Did you ever rule out a faulty/misfiring injector? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted August 22, 2012 Author Share Posted August 22, 2012 Nope, all injectors fire..from what i can tell by the clicking and their resistance.. I have good news! Alright, i dont know what preignition sounds like..or even what pinging sounds like, but i advanced the dizzy a tooth and put it in stock position..it started up a lot quicker and i can floor it from idle again! It doesnt try to die anymore and doesnt backfire! Alright, so after a test drive, i was very pleased with, i listen very closely for any odd noises..and hear a slighttttttt deep sound..but, remember i just had my exhaust redone and may be mistaken it for something else..BUT. I really think maybe it was just out a tooth.. Any idea what this noise is? I mean its idling right at 750 again, i now have brakes again (its not idling too low anymore) It isnt backfiring anymore and it isnt dying when i floor it.. Basically what im asking is, the pinging noise gonig to be louder and more noticable? Thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 It should be. Can you get a timing light on it and see where it's at on the pulley. I had the same problem with my timing, it turns out I could turn the rotor independently of the gear on the end of the distributor. The set screw was tight but something is stripped inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted August 23, 2012 Author Share Posted August 23, 2012 Maybe thats whats wrong with mine..with that done above ^ My idle is fixed and my WOT from idle is fixed, though it still revs up faster when given a light pedal, compared to flooring it, but its getting there. Im scared to advance it anymore, because i dont know if its already way too advanced or not..but I just dont know.. I do know my cam timing is right but..i just dont know what could be the problem anymore..it should have NOTHING to complain about.. i have zero vacuum leaks, zero exhaust leaks (so far...) and its getting plenty of air, plenty of spark, and fuel pressures are good and all injectors spray evenly and compression is great.. It makes no sense!! I really, really dont want to sell it.. But its really looking like i'll have to..its embarassing being passed up hills by little 4 cylinder saturns and a few semi's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 Have you reset the computer since getting the exhaust done? Now that it's got proper numbers to go with, it might do some good. Now I think about it, though, the dizzy being a tooth out doesn't jive with the onset symptoms. According to your first post in this thread, it started doing this while driving, after having throttle fluctuations when cold. If it was just a case of the distributor being set wrong, it wouldn't have run right to begin with. If advancing the dizzy by a tooth makes things better (and your cam timing truly is correct), I suspect that the dizzy itself has failed internally, like how Adamzan suggested. (I've forgotten if you've ruled that one out already.) If it is shot, you might be able to find one at a junkyard. (I'd probably pull it apart and see if there was something obviously broken that I could JB back together, but that's probably a waste of time.) At the very least, checking it with a timing light will tell you if you're advancing it too far or not. It looks like you're closing in on the problem at least. Look at it this way: if you figure it out, nothing will ever go wrong with it again... because you've already replaced everything else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted August 23, 2012 Author Share Posted August 23, 2012 Yes, I did reset the ecu.. That was actually the first thing on my mind. Lol the cam timing is dead on, I can say that. But the distributor is a possibility. I mean what else can I blame at this point? Today after work I'll pull the dizzy and try turning the gear and seeing if it turns in sync with the rotor (right?) and I'm going to replace my fuel filter in the Bay.. If I had a timing light I'd definitely check it! Haha yeah no crap! I have replaced nearly every sensor besides the MAF and IACV. Whatever it is is seriously affecting how quickly the fuel catches up (an assumption because of how quick it revs when I slowly floor it.) but yet I can smell gas pretty strong after I floor it either way.. My guess now is a timing or fuel issue.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted August 23, 2012 Author Share Posted August 23, 2012 (edited) So today, i installed my new fuel filter, new MAF wires and known working MAF (as a test) and reset the computer during all that time of installing the new stuff, hooked it up and again, there was a slight increase in power, but its still not right. i did take an acceleration video if anyone wants to see it.. anyway. I let it idle around 30mins while just wiggling wires and vacuum hoses hoping for something to happen..but no change, but it reminded me, the one thing i havent checked/changed the PCV valve. I do remember it being dirty, but ignored it. Could it have an effect on performance? Thanks. Edited August 23, 2012 by NissanNismoZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 (edited) PCV failure is more likely to cause sludge or oil consumption (at least from what I've read) which doesn't sound like your issue. The smell of fuel is interesting... have you checked the fuel pressure regulator? Also, mine smelled like fuel for a while (no issues from it) and it turned out to be a loose hose to the passenger's side injector rail. Easy fix (bugger to get to though) and definitely peace of mind! Edited August 23, 2012 by Slartibartfast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted August 23, 2012 Author Share Posted August 23, 2012 (edited) I found out the PCV valve was only 4.99 so i couldnt resist and replaced it. I dont know if maybe the PCV was causing some sort of issue as well but it definitely helped in bottom end and it seemed to go up my hill in 2nd gear a little better instead of slowing down.. I swear every little thing ive done today has helped it, but its still not fixed. Once i find out this problem it should be fairly powerful!! The PCV valve was pretty stiff with sludge.. and yes, my fuel pressure regulator hose was unhooked for a while as well, but it was hooked back up a while back.. But thanks for the suggestion With the plugs reading lean last it has to be a fuel problem..or vacuum leak..but i can NOT find a single vacuum leak. Not one!! Are there any accessories that connect to the intake that may be dirty and sticking and causing a vacuum leak? Edited August 23, 2012 by NissanNismoZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 I know you are hearing clicking injectors, but I still think you might have a dirty or clogged injector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted August 23, 2012 Author Share Posted August 23, 2012 Not trying to question you or anything, but how could i tell if i had a dirty injector? wouldnt it run with a slight miss? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 Heh I told you to replace the PCV valve a couple pages back I think, didn't I? Did you use an OEM part? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted August 23, 2012 Author Share Posted August 23, 2012 Yes, yes you did! I knew someone did but forgot about it.. I used a purolator, didnt think one of those could vary too much since they're just a spring valve..right? or no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted August 24, 2012 Share Posted August 24, 2012 Its just that its running lean. Do your local parts stores rent tools? Can you rent a timing light? I'd try to get it timed correctly and make sure the dizzy is good. Your throwing too much at it at once I think and getting minimal gains at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now