What fluids & filters are you running?

Towncivilian · August 10, 2011

Here's a new one. What fluids, filters, grease, and change intervals do you run in your Pathfinder?

Fluids
- Engine Oil - Mobil 1 0W-40 API SN
- Coolant - Genuine Nissan + distilled water
- ATF - Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle
- MTF - N/A (automatic)
- Brake Fluid - Valvoline DOT 3 and 4 Synthetic Brake Fluid (why do they print "Synthetic" on the bottle? all brake fluid is synthetic! Ha, marketing)
- Power Steering Fluid - Mostly Genuine Nissan PSF, some Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in there (slowly changing it out with a suction gun of the reservoir every oil change)
- Front Diff - N/A (2WD)
- Rear Diff - Valvoline High-Performance 80W-90 Gear Oil (will likely switch to Mobil 1 75W-90 once I hit 150k - $22 for 3qt of quality, easily obtained synthetic gear oil sounds great to me!)
- Transfer Case - N/A (2WD)
[*]Filters
- Oil Filter - Mobil 1 Extended Performance M1-110
- Air Filter - Wix 46116 - cheaper than OEM and double the pleats! See here.
- In-Cabin Air Filter - Nissan OEM part 999M1-VP003 (but use B7200-00004 if you really want OEM, as the former part # comes with instructions, a new clip, a replacement sticker, and a caution label - all useless, IMO) - read my NAPA Gold vs. OEM filter comparison. I'd say get the NAPA Gold 4863 or others to minimize cost.
- Fuel Filter - NAPA Gold 3023 (which is a Wix 33023), about $14 (Nissan OEM is also $14 - will switch to OEM in 1-2 years and cut open both filters to compare amount of filtering media)
- ATF Filter - Beck/Arnley in-pan "filter" and Magnefine in-line filter, and B&M 70268 auxiliary transmission cooler (rated at 13,000 BTU); OEM pan filter next
[*]Change intervals
- Fluids
  - Engine Oil - 3,750 with conventional, 5-6k with synthetic
  - Coolant - every 2 years
  - ATF - drain & fill every 15k
  - MTF - N/A (automatic)
  - Brake Fluid - every 2 years
  - Power Steering Fluid - one siphon & fill of the reservoir every oil change
  - Front Diff - N/A (2WD)
  - Rear Diff - every 2 years
  - Transfer Case - N/A (2WD)
  [*]Filters
  - Oil Filter - every oil change, of course!
  - Air Filter - don't know, only changed once and that was essentially a random change to the aforementioned Wix filter due to higher pleat count
  - In-Cabin Air Filter - every 1-2 years
  - Fuel Filter - every 1-2 years
  - ATF Filter - whenever I do a pan drop. this filter isn't really a filter, it's more like a rock catcher; even the best in-pan filters don't filter any lower than 80 microns. The Magnefine will be changed every 30k.

And I use SuperTech Moly-Lithum Grease for greasing the main driveshaft with 4-5 pumps every oil change or whenever I get bored. Will switch to Valvoline DuraBlend when this tube runs out. My Pathfinder currently has 129k miles on it.

Copy & paste this to use the same format list I have:

[list]
[*]Fluids
[list]
[*]Engine Oil - 
[*]Coolant - 
[*]ATF - 
[*]MTF - 
[*]Brake Fluid - 
[*]Power Steering Fluid - 
[*]Front Diff - 
[*]Rear Diff - 
[*]Transfer Case - 
[/list]
[*]Filters
[list]
[*]Oil Filter - 
[*]Air Filter - 
[*]In-Cabin Air Filter - 
[*]Fuel Filter - 
[*]ATF Filter - 
[/list]
[*]Change intervals
[list]
[*]Fluids
[list]
[*]Engine Oil - 
[*]Coolant - 
[*]ATF - 
[*]MTF - 
[*]Brake Fluid - 
[*]Power Steering Fluid - 
[*]Front Diff - 
[*]Rear Diff - 
[*]Transfer Case - 
[/list]
[*]Filters
[list]
[*]Oil Filter - 
[*]Air Filter - 
[*]In-Cabin Air Filter - 
[*]Fuel Filter - 
[*]ATF Filter - 
[/list]
[/list]
[/list]

Edited November 18, 2011 by Towncivilian

adamzan · August 10, 2011

Jeez you are bored at 3:00 am aren't you? :itsallgood:

Here is mine

Fluids
- Engine Oil - Castrol Syntec 5w50 in summer and 5w30 in the winter
- Coolant - Motomaster "longlife" (it is a yellow colored coolant)
- ATF - Valvoline Maxlife
- MTF - N/A
- Brake Fluid - Napa DOT 3
- Power Steering Fluid - Has probably never been changed (yikes!)
- Front Diff - Has also never been changed yet (yikes again)
- Rear Diff - Castrol Hypoy C 80w90 (for LSD)
- Transfer Case - Motomaster ATF
[*]Filters
- Oil Filter - Quaker State (purolator) or Mobil1 or Motomaster (Whatever is in stock)
- Air Filter - Motomaster
- In-Cabin Air Filter - N/A
- Fuel Filter - Napa Gold
- ATF Filter - OEM Nissan filter and gasket
[*]Change intervals
- Fluids
  - Engine Oil - Every 5000 km's on the nose
  - Coolant - Every 2 years
  - ATF - Every year or 30k whatever comes first (usually a year)
  - MTF - N/A
  - Brake Fluid - Every time I change the brake pads
  - Power Steering Fluid - Has probably never been changed (I should probably get on that)
  - Front Diff - Same as P/S fluid
  - Rear Diff - End of every wheeling season
  - Transfer Case - End of every wheeling season
  [*]Filters
  - Oil Filter - Every oil change, sometimes even at 2500kms if they have filters on sale!
  - Air Filter - Every 20k regardless of condition
  - In-Cabin Air Filter - N/A
  - Fuel Filter - Every 2 years
  - ATF Filter - Every 60k, towncivllian is correct it is more like a screen (but you should still replace it not clean it). So I have added an external filter.

I use the Valvoline grease in mine because that is what we have here (apparently someone bought a case a while ago). I lube the drive shafts every other oil change and the front end including the uca's and idler arm every oil change.

My pathfinder has 365,857kms on it and runs smooth as silk. I do need to change the front diff and P/S fluid though. But I am having a hard time getting the front diff fill plug off.

Towncivilian · August 10, 2011

Yeah, I couldn't sleep until 5 am.

Why exactly do you use 5w50 in the summer? The FSM says you can go up to 20W50 if temperature is above 10C for all seasons, but 5w50 would still take longer to get to operating temperature in the summer. I guess you could ask the same question to me as to why I run 10w40 (better additive pack since 10w40 is not as strict as thinner grades for zinc/phosphorus ppm limits I think, and to hopefully slow an RMS leak). 5w30 will protect sufficiently well - after all, think of all the police cars running 5w20 down here in Florida, Texas etc with ridiculous heat and think of the amount of abuse they get. They're perfectly fine.

Edited August 10, 2011 by Towncivilian

adamzan · August 10, 2011

I use 5w50 in the summer because I was under the impression that a little thicker oil would be better for such an old truck. I'm probably wrong but I have been doing it since I have owned it and it runs very well and loses no oil between changes. For the RMS leak try some Lucas stop leak. I think Simon on here used to use it on his old pathfinder with good results. http://www.lucasoil.ca/products/product.asp?id=35&cat=HeavyDuty

Towncivilian · August 10, 2011

Thanks for the recommendation, but Lucas Stop Leak is just 140wt gear oil as far as I know (or was that Lucas Oil Stabilizer?). Either way it's mostly just junk that thickens up the oil to mask problems. My oil is already thick enough. I'd rather try something that claims to help like AT-205.

ramdala · August 10, 2011

Here is mine...

Fluids
- Engine Oil - Mobil super 10W40
- Coolant - nissan original
- ATF - X
- MTF - Mobil
- Brake Fluid - ??
- Power Steering Fluid - ??
- Front Diff - Mobil
- Rear Diff - Mobil
- Transfer Case - Mobil
[*]Filters
- Oil Filter - Nissan Original
- Air Filter - Nissan Original//K&N
- In-Cabin Air Filter - Nissan Original
- Fuel Filter - Nissan Original
- ATF Filter - X
[*]Change intervals
- Fluids
  - Engine Oil - 5.000 Km
  - Coolant - Never
  - ATF - X
  - MTF - 40.000Km
  - Brake Fluid - eeehh Never....2Do list
  - Power Steering Fluid - Never (really need to do this?)
  - Front Diff - 1/yr
  - Rear Diff - 1/yr
  - Transfer Case -1/yr
  [*]Filters
  - Oil Filter - 5.000 Km
  - Air Filter - 7.000Km
  - In-Cabin Air Filter - 1/yr
  - Fuel Filter - 15.000 Km
  - ATF Filter - X

adamzan · August 10, 2011

Thanks for the recommendation, but Lucas Stop Leak is just 140wt gear oil as far as I know (or was that Lucas Oil Stabilizer?). Either way it's mostly just junk that thickens up the oil to mask problems. My oil is already thick enough. I'd rather try something that claims to help like AT-205.

Well either way you are just masking problems. You could always change the seal yourself. I know pulling the transmission sounds like a big job but on an r50 it isn't that bad.

Towncivilian · August 10, 2011

Yeah, the trans probably isn't the end of the world, but the steel oil pan must be removed IIRC. ahardb0dy has a mechanic friend who would do it for $400 + parts but I don't have that kind of money right now, but I'll probably take that route once I do. That seems a hell of a lot more reasonable than Nissan's $1800 (and that's after a 10% discount for misquoting the price; the service adviser thought I had a 3.3L).

adamzan · August 10, 2011

Oh right, you have the 3.5L. I have only seen a VG30/33 without the trans on and I know you don't need to take the pan off on it. 400 sounds like a pretty good price. Maybe I should drive down there and have him swap my new transmission in haha!

Towncivilian · August 11, 2011

ramdala, you really should replace your coolant, brake, and power steering fluids. The coolant's anti-corrosive inhibitors wear out after a certain amount of time. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water from the atmosphere and that can also cause corrosion in the brake lines, and wet fluid has a lower boiling point than "dry" fluid, making brake fade more prone to occuring. Power steering fluid is possibly one of the most neglected fluids in a vehicle, and power steering systems can run quite hot. Heat oxidizes and degrades the fluid. Using a turkey baster or other device to siphon out the reservoir and replace with a synthetic ATF will be extremely beneficial and lower operating temperature by quite a bit. Do this a few times a day apart and then once every engine oil change and you will be set.

ramdala · August 11, 2011

ramdala, you really should replace your coolant, brake, and power steering fluids. The coolant's anti-corrosive inhibitors wear out after a certain amount of time. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water from the atmosphere and that can also cause corrosion in the brake lines, and wet fluid has a lower boiling point than "dry" fluid, making brake fade more prone to occuring. Power steering fluid is possibly one of the most neglected fluids in a vehicle, and power steering systems can run quite hot. Heat oxidizes and degrades the fluid. Using a turkey baster or other device to siphon out the reservoir and replace with a synthetic ATF will be extremely beneficial and lower operating temperature by quite a bit. Do this a few times a day apart and then once every engine oil change and you will be set.

Thanks!, Added to my never ending to do list!

shasdakota · August 11, 2011

Well, here's mine...

Fluids:

*Engine Oil- Shell Rotella Diesel 5W40

*Coolant- Motomaster Diesel Pre-mixed

*ATF- will be flushing tomorrow (i was waiting on something. will use Motomaster ATF Dexron II)

*MTF- N/A

*Brake Fluid- DOT 3(will have to check brand)

*Power Steering Fluid- (drain and fill tomorrow. will use Motomaster ATF Dexron II)

*Front Diff- (?? will be changing very soon)

*Rear Diff- Motomaster Heavy Duty Gear Oil APL GL-5 SAE 80W-90)

*Transfer Case- (will change with tranny tomorrow. using Motomaster ATF Dexron II)

Filters:

*Oil Filter- Sakuraba (Japanese)

*Air Filter- K&N

*In-Cabin Air Filter- Nissan Original (may need replacing?)

*Fuel Filter- Nissan

*ATF Filter- Nissan Original (may need cleaning/replacing)

-Change Intervals-

Fluids:

*Engine Oil- every 2-3 months

*Coolant- Every 2 years

*ATF- Its been 2 years, but i plan to change that to 1x year)

*MTF- N/A

*Brake Fluid- Just changed it. dont know when it was changed last. plan to start changing it every 2 years.

*Power Steering Fluid- Dont know when/if its ever been changed. I will be changing it very soon, and plan to keep changing it every 2 years.

*Front Diff- dont know if its ever been changed. Plan to start changing it every 1-2 years.

*Rear Diff- 1x year

*Transfer Case- Its been 2 years, but i plan to start changing it 1 x year*

Filters:

*Oil Filter- every 2-3 months (@ oil change)

*Air Filter- K&N Filter needs cleaning every 6 months/1 year or whenever it looks dirty (Guaranteed for 10 years or 1 million miles or something crazy like that)

*In-Cabin Air Filter- original. maybe i should change it...

*Fuel Filter- 1x year

*ATF Filter- probably original. dont know the history. i plan to add a external ATF filter. does the filter/screen in the ATF pan still need cleaning if i do this?

And I been using Moly-Lithum Grease on my drive shafts, etc every 6 months or when needed.

I've been doing a lot of maintenance/fluid changes lately. after i flush the transmission, transfer case, power steering and front differential i will have new clean fluids all around.

I knew i had a in-cabin air filter, but i didnt know when/if i was supposed to replace it. i dont even know where it is. i'll have to check on that. and as far as the ATF Filter, do i need to clean/replace the screen in the ATF pan if i add an in-line external filter?

Adamzan- I'm in the same place your are regarding your front differential. I cant get my fill plug to budge. i tried jacking up the front end to have lots of space for leverage, and i attacked it with a 1/2" drive breaker bar and PB spray. that didnt work. then i learned i can get a special socket for japanese differentials that will fit tighter than a 1/2" drive. i ordered it, got it, tried it, but i still cant get it to move. and now after all the wrestling, the fill plug bolt is starting to get damaged (stripped), so i'm stopping before it gets any worse. its aluminum and very easy to strip. my drain plug will loosen.

I recently had my truck in at the garage for an alignment, and i asked them to diagnose some possible leaks. turns out i need a bunch of seals replaced in my front differential. so i'll let them wrestle my front differential fill plug out. I figure worse case scenario they can drain/re-fill it using just the drain plug since they have to pull the whole front differential and axle apart to replace these seals. but i hope they can get it out.

I'm looking at $350-$400 labor + parts (about $100-$150). I looked into doing it myself, but i'm not exactly confident about doing it. i really dont have a lot of mechanical experience and pulling my front diff and axle apart is a little more than i want to tackle on my own. sometimes i wish i had a buddy with experience to help on these kinds of projects, but mostly i prefer working alone...

Edited August 11, 2011 by shasdakota

Towncivilian · August 11, 2011

Be aware that Dexron II (anything below VI, really) is no longer licensed and thus you don't really know what you're getting in that Dexron II bottle. Dexron VI, while thin, is compatible with most transmissions that spec any of the previous Dexrons. Dexron VI must be a full synthetic if I remember correctly, and it starts out at a lower viscosity; do not be alarmed, since most earlier mineral-based fluids would shear quickly to Dex VI's starting viscosity anyway. If you would like some more reading material about Dexron VI, see here.

I don't think it's a necessity to replace the in-pan filter, especially if you've kept up with drain & fills since the vehicle was new, but if you have any doubt of the transmission's history, then a pan drop to change the filter and clean the pan and magnet of any ferrous build-up (maybe add some more donut magnets if you can find some) never hurts. Like I said the filter is more of a screen, and it probably filters up to 100µ at best.

I also suggest using a DOT4 brake fluid - it has somewhat higher wet & dry boiling points than DOT3 and is completely compatible with all DOT3 systems. Any brand will work fine.

I'm not sure if your Terrano has an in-cabin air filter. It would be behind the glove box if there is one, so maybe check first. If it indeed the original it's almost guaranteed to be disgusting by now, and making your blower motor less efficient.

Perhaps your local dealership will service your differential for $25 if you supply your own fluid - mine did. Call and ask.

Edited August 11, 2011 by Towncivilian

shasdakota · August 12, 2011

interseting...

the reason i been using dexron II and DOT 3, is because that's what my manual recomends. i never knew they were compatable with others. thanks for the info, i'll look into it for next time...

i really dont know if i have an in-cabin air filter either. i'm still at a complete loss for information for anything that doesnt have to do with the TD27T engine or that doesnt match the Pathfinder. i'll check my Pathy manual, and if i dont have a filter where they point to, then i have no idea how to find it, besides asking more questions here...

i dont know the history of my transmission very well. so i should probably drop the pan and clean/replace the screen. just been putting it off because i have to drop the cross member and bracket to get at all the bolts. i'm going to add a trans temp gauge soon and a external in-line filter, so i was hoping that would take care of teh filtering, but i guess the stock screen in the pan would still be possibly clogged and restricting fluid.

i'm not familiar with other vehicles. i only know a little bit about my own. but from my experience, they make doing any maintenance on these trucks a total PIA....

maybe all vehicles are quirky in this way, or maybe its just japanese vehicles, i have no idea, but they even make it hard to do an oil change on these trucks, and that seems a bit rediculous. I feel like they were almost trying to make things hard when they designed the truck. it cant all be coincidence. maybe they want you to take it to the dealer everytime you need something done.

EDIT- i havent flushed my tranny/t-case/power steering yet. i'm planning to do it this weekend. i still have the receipt for my Dexron II ATF fluid, so i could exchange it for Dexron VI. i noticed the power steering fluid at the Nissan dealer was Dexron IV (not VI), but i just presumed it was for a different vehicle...

EDIT x2- so, should i order another "screen" filter, or just clean it?

EDIT x3- how many grease nipples/points does a 1991 Terrano/Pathy have? where are they located? does anyone recomend adding a zerk fitting to grease any other particular part?

Edited August 12, 2011 by shasdakota

adamzan · August 12, 2011

Where do you find dexron II anymore? I've been using the motomaster ATF which says it is compatible with the nissan matic fluid so that is good enough for me.

shasdakota · August 18, 2011

i found dex II @ crappy tire...

they had lots of it...

but i also returned it for Mobil ATF Dex VI...

and i found all my grease points and added nipples...

and realized my lower ball joint grease resovoir is cracked. its made of rubber, and all the rubber on my truck is shot. guess i should have been applying silicone lube to keep the rubber fresh, but i havent owned this vehicle fore long, the rubber has been degrading for a long time now...

does anyone think i can just glue/bond the rubber resovoir back together? thats probably just prolonging the inivitable, i need to replace my lower ball joints. and my upper ball joints are getting ready to crack...

wow! my repair list is never ending! good news is i'm running out of places to look for problems. i think i've gone over almost every inch of my truck over the last few months. so i shouldnt have to many more surprises...

i also have another question for you Terrano owners. (remember i have a diesel auto trans)

i thought i had ATF fluid in my t-case, but i finally managed to remove my drain/fill plugs that were really stuck, and i dont have ATF fluid in there. its gear oil. just not sure what kind. GL$ or GL5? how much does it matter? does anyone know what fluid the t-case in a '91 diesel Terrano wit A/T uses?

And i found out i have a LSD rear diff. nice surprise. eventhough i cant upgrade to a locking diff now, i wasnt going to do that anyways. just cant justify putting that much cash into my truck. but its a good thing i used LSD gear oil when i changed my rear diff fluid a month back...

EDIT- i contacted some Terrano owners and have come to the conclusion i have GL4 80W90 in my T-Case. and i just picked some up, so thats what i'll be using...

Edit x2- i tired looking through my Haynes, but i didnt have any success. can anyone tell me where i might find my in-cabin air filter? not even sure i have one...

Edited August 21, 2011 by shasdakota

5523Pathfinder · August 18, 2011

Most stuff I use usually comes from my work.

[*]Fluids

Engine Oil - Kendall Synthetic Blend 5w-30
Coolant - Service Pro Long life
ATF -
MTF - Redline GL-4
Brake Fluid - Service Pro super heavy duty Brake Fluid
Power Steering Fluid - BG Semi-synthetic
Front Diff - 75-90 (supplied in bulk by Motor Oil Supply)
Rear Diff - 75-90 (supplied in bulk by Motor Oil Supply)
Transfer Case - Valvoline Max Life

[*]Filters

Oil Filter - Nissan filter 15208-55y00
Air Filter - K & N Pop Charger
In-Cabin Air Filter -
Fuel Filter - Nissan
ATF Filter -

[*]Change intervals

Fluids
- Engine Oil - 3500-4000 miles
- Coolant - I have only changed it once, and thats when I put my timing belt on(6-7years ago)
- ATF -
- MTF - Changed when I put my new trans in. I may change it once its been in for 100k miles
- Brake Fluid - I flush every 15-20,000 miles
- Power Steering Fluid - When I get the chance or every 50k
- Front Diff - 30-60k
  h
- Rear Diff - 30-60k
- Transfer Case - 30k
[*]Filters
- Oil Filter - Every oil change
- Air Filter - Clean about evey 15-20 miles(or after wheeling!)
- In-Cabin Air Filter -
- Fuel Filter - 30k
- ATF Filter -

Gotta like working in the industry, keeps costs down! I do like my Nissan stuff as its performed better than anything else.

Edited August 18, 2011 by 5523Pathfinder

Precise1 · August 19, 2011

I'll play...

* Fluids

o Engine Oil - Castrol semi-synthetic 10-40

o Coolant - Prestone, 50/50 IIRC

o ATF - Dextron/Mercon III because it was recommended as a viable substitute to Nissan's stuff,

perhaps with more frequent changes.

o MTF - N/A (automatic)

o Brake Fluid - Prestone Synthetic DOT3

o Power Steering Fluid - Unknown

o Front Diff - Lucas 80w90

o Rear Diff - Lucas 80w90

o Transfer Case - Dextron/Mercon III

* Filters

o Oil Filter - Bosch 3500. (estimated 200% filtering capacity compared to stock)

o Air Filter - Fram (K&N oiled membrane clone)

o In-Cabin Air Filter - Whut??

o Fuel Filter - Unknown

o ATF Filter - Champion Labs (will look up the number) inline filter (ignores in pan filter and cooler)

* Change intervals

o Fluids

+ Engine Oil - 2,500-3,000

+ Coolant - 2-4 years

+ ATF - Not yet. (Flush and refill soon, monitor from there)

+ MTF - N/A (automatic)

+ Brake Fluid - When I replace, adjust brake components (every few years)

+ Power Steering Fluid - Damn, good question!!

+ Front Diff - As per off road use (none as of yet)

+ Rear Diff - As per manual mileage/off road usage. Take care of your rear end. Without it, you go no where...

+ Transfer Case - As per off road usage.

o Filters

+ Oil Filter - every oil change, of course!

+ Air Filter - don't know, haven't changed yet

+ In-Cabin Air Filter - every 1-2 years

+ Fuel Filter - every 1-2 years

+ ATF Filter - Every fluid change

My Pathfinder currently has 106k miles on it.

B

shasdakota · August 21, 2011

so, yesterday i drained my t-case. when i cracked the t-case fill plug a few days ago, the fluid inside looked black. so i presumed gear oil, not ATF, like my Haynes manual suggests for the '91 Pathfinder. but yesterday after draining my t-case, i realized the "gear oil" wasnt actually black or gear oil colored. it was really dark brown. and it was a different color from the old gear oil i drained from my front and rear diffs. it didnt really have that ATF smell, and it certainly wasnt red, but i'm thinking thats what it is. it also had more of the consistency of ATF fluid, not gear oil. So then i did some more research on some NZ 4x4 forums with much more Terrano info, and it seems the '91 diesel, auto trans Terrrano may indeed use ATF fluid in the t-case.

its all a little nerve racking, i cant seem to find a solid answer that everyone agree's with. i need to find out if i have the same t-case used on 1991 Nissan Pathfinders. if its the same, then i need to put ATF fluid in my t-case...

EDIT- well that was easy enough. i do have the same t-case found on Pathy's. so i need to put ATF fluid in my t-case.

just incase any of you Terrano owners are wondering, i thought this info may help.

Edited August 21, 2011 by shasdakota

sewebster · August 23, 2011

The TX10 transfer case can use ATF or gear oil. It's in the FSM, I think it might only say that you can use gear oil in one place though, look around. Some people, me included, just run the same gear oil in the (manual) transmission and transfer case because it's both easier and if you get a leak between the two it won't matter as much.

dududuckling · August 24, 2011

Fluids

Engine Oil - Royal Purple Motor Oil 5W30

Coolant - Nissan 70:30 with Royal Purple Radiator Additives

ATF - N/A (Manual)

MTF - Royal Purple Max Gear 75W90

Transfer Case - Royal Purple Max Gear 75W90

Front Diff - Royal Purple Max Gear 85W140

Rear Diff - Royal Purple Max Gear 85W140

Brake Fluid - ATE Super Blue Dot 4

Clutch Fluid - Nissan Dot 3

Power Steering Fluid - Nissan PSF II

Filters

Oil Filter - K&N

Air Filter - K&N

In-Cabin Air Filter - Nissan

Fuel Filter - Nissan

ATF Filter - N/A (Manual)

Change intervals

Fluids

Engine Oil - 5000 km

Coolant - 2 year

ATF - N/A (Manual)

MTF - 2 year

Transfer Case - >5 years

Front Diff - >5 years

Rear Diff - 2 year

Brake Fluid - >5 years

Power Steering Fluid - >5 years

Filters

Oil Filter - 5000 km

Air Filter - Washed once a year

In-Cabin Air Filter - >5 years

Fuel Filter - 2 year

ATF Filter - N/A (Manual)

2000 Nissan Pathfinder has 277,000 km.

Edited August 30, 2011 by dududuckling

Towncivilian · August 25, 2011

You should change your brake fluid more often than every 5 years or more. As I said earlier, brake fluid is hygroscopic and water is bad in the brake system. A quart of brake fluid every 2 years at the most is cheap (assuming you bleed your own brakes).

shasdakota · August 27, 2011

sewebster- interesting... i was also thinking along those lines, which is why it would be better for me to use ATF fluid in my t-case since i have a auto trans...

shasdakota · September 11, 2011

does anyone know the part # for the tranny filter screen in the pan for the WD21? I cant see it...

http://www.nissanpartszone.com/Page_Product/PartDetail.aspx?ModelName=Pathfinder&ModelYear=1991&ModelSeries=WD21&FileType=277&SelectConditions=%281%3dW%3b2%3dVG30E%3b5%3d4WD%3b6%3d4D%3b%29&ShowConditions=%285%3d4WD%3b6%3d4D%3b%29&seeDesc=False&goBack=True&SectionNo=F&ComponentsNo=311&ComponentsIndex=5

Towncivilian · September 11, 2011

does anyone know the part # for the tranny filter screen in the pan for the WD21? I cant see it...

http://www.nissanpartszone.com/Page_Product/PartDetail.aspx?ModelName=Pathfinder&ModelYear=1991&ModelSeries=WD21&FileType=277&SelectConditions=%281%3dW%3b2%3dVG30E%3b5%3d4WD%3b6%3d4D%3b%29&ShowConditions=%285%3d4WD%3b6%3d4D%3b%29&seeDesc=False&goBack=True&SectionNo=F&ComponentsNo=311&ComponentsIndex=5

31728-41X03 Strainer

31526-41X07 O-ring

It's actually just a "strainer" and doesn't have a lot of filtering capability as I've said before in this thread, but if you have the pan down may as well replace it. Be sure to get the new O-ring I listed too. You will also need a new gasket (31397-41X05). Technically you're also supposed to replace the 18 self-sealing pan bolts (31377-41X06), but that's probably not required as long as you clean them off and the gasket seals properly. An aftermarket kit is cheaper, but if you want to stick with OEM parts I believe those are the correct part numbers. I got the info from this thread - I don't know what the last 3 gaskets are for (transfer case or something? :shrug: )

What fluids & filters are you running?

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