shasdakota Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 Nice! Thanks Towncivilian... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted September 20, 2011 Author Share Posted September 20, 2011 Updated my first post with a new engine air filter (Wix 46116 - cheaper than OEM and double the pleats! see here) and cabin air filter: Nissan OEM part 999M1-VP003 (but use B7200-00004 if you really want OEM, as the former part # comes with instructions, a new clip, a replacement sticker, and a caution label - all useless, IMO) - read my NAPA Gold vs. OEM filter comparison. I'd say get the NAPA Gold 4863 instead for cheaper. And yes, I can't sleep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted November 25, 2011 Author Share Posted November 25, 2011 Bump for updated first post and some more exposure! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 FluidsEngine Oil - Royal Purple Synthetic 5w30 Coolant - Prestone 50:50 something. Going to be getting rid of that soon ATF - Generic crap that Advance Sells MTF - Going to put Redline Mt-90 in Brake Fluid - Some generic DOT 3. My one caliper has a leak, so I think most of the fluid is fresh. Power Steering Fluid - No idea. Front Diff - Not sure Rear Diff - I hope there's gear oil Transfer Case - Not sure [*]Filters Oil Filter - Purolator Gold. From what I've read around here, I'll be upgrading this soon Air Filter - K&N In-Cabin Air Filter - Probably stock. Fuel Filter - Probably stock ATF Filter - Probably stock [*]Change intervals FluidsEngine Oil - Every 3,000 miles. I'm going to wait a bit longer since I'm using Synthetic Coolant - Need to do a complete flush ATF - I did it once MTF - Brake Fluid - Top it off once a month or so Power Steering Fluid - I check once every two weeks Front Diff - Needs to be done Rear Diff - Needs to be done Transfer Case - Needs to be done [*]Filters Oil Filter - one per oil change Air Filter - Brand new. About 400 miles old. I will be cleaning it in a year or so In-Cabin Air Filter - Soon Fuel Filter - Soon ATF Filter - Not gonna worry about it Hopefully over the next few days I can edit this list and fill it in with some good answers Oh yeah, I have a 1994 Nissan King Cab SEV6 4x4 with 128k miles. Since my mileage isn't TOO high, I hope none of my stuff is ruined too badly. I guess, if the diffs have been done even once, then I should be safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted November 25, 2011 Author Share Posted November 25, 2011 I'm assuming a Purolator Gold is a Purolator PureONE filter. What did you read that made you change your mind about them? I think they're very well constructed, have plenty of filtering media, and can easily last 5 to 7k miles in a clean engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickyficky Posted December 1, 2011 Share Posted December 1, 2011 Thanks for posting all of this everyone. I'm about to do a full fluid revival on my 95 (currently has 197,000 miles, I got it with 72k). I've had it for about 6 years and I've always been meticulous about changing the oil and the A/T fluid (it's a replacement A/T). I've been fairly good about having the 2 diff's and the transfer case done. I have never changed the brake fluid (but have been wanting to for a while), I think I might just get it done..... I have never changed the power steering fluid. I feel like the power steering fluid is the biggest inconsistency on this thread. Some people are saying check it every two weeks, some years, and then there's some like me.....never.... @Towncivilian - to change the PS fluid, are you saying to just suck it out with the baster and then refill (and do you repeat for a few days in a row to get all the crap out)? Also, you do this every 3 - 5k miles? Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted December 1, 2011 Author Share Posted December 1, 2011 (edited) Yes, use a turkey baster or suction gun to siphon the fluid, then refill with the fluid of your choice (preferably some synthetic ATF). When I did this the first time, I siphoned the reservoir, started the engine, moved the wheel lock to lock a few times then stopped engine and repeated until out of ATF, to exchange the vast majority of the fluid. I siphon & fill the reservoir every oil change or every other oil change to keep things fresh. Or if you want to be very thorough, you can siphon the reservoir, disconnect the return line, extend the line if necessary to point it in a collection bucket, jack up the car, and have a helper turn the wheel with the engine off (otherwise the return line pressure is really high) as you fill the reservoir with fresh fluid. Once you see fresh fluid coming from the return line, stop and hook everything back up, top off the level, and you're good. Maybe add a Magnefine if you're crazy. Edited December 1, 2011 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heloflyboy Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 Wow you guys are bored.I run 10W-30 castrol with Fram filters and what ever else gets what is on sale.It gets changed so often it does not matter.150k of abuse and no leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 (edited) Fluids Engine Oil - Current motor- pennzoil 10-w30, new motor was broke in on Delo 400 le Coolant - Prestone mixed 50-50 ATF - Old- Dex V, New B&M trick shift MTF - Brake Fluid - Supertech DOT3 Power Steering Fluid - Prestone Front Diff - 75-90 Rear Diff - 90-140 supertech Transfer Case - Dex V [*]Filters Oil Filter - Fram then supertech,- new motor WIX Air Filter - Fram then K&N drop in- new motor K&N black top In-Cabin Air Filter - Factory installed Fuel Filter - Factory installed ATF Filter - $29 one. [*]Change intervals Fluids Engine Oil - Old one-Every 2-3k New one - Once before dyno run. Coolant - Every 2 years ATF - Every 30k MTF - Brake Fluid - When they die Power Steering Fluid - Never Front Diff - Every 100k Rear Diff - Every 50k, with syn every 100k Transfer Case - Every 100k [*]Filters Oil Filter - Every change Air Filter - When torn/ cant clean with air hose. In-Cabin Air Filter - Never, Dont think it has one. Fuel Filter - As needed ATF Filter - Every fluid change. Grease Lucas red N tacky or Traveler truck and tractor. Edited December 2, 2011 by nismothunder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 Is it normal for the gear oil that came out of my transfer case to reek of burnt metal? I put my finger in it to see how black it was. It was pretty dark and it almost made me throw up it smelled so bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted December 2, 2011 Author Share Posted December 2, 2011 No first-hand experience, but I'd think it can smell pretty bad. The transfer case has no active cooling as far as I know, so I'd think it can get pretty damn hot. If it smells burnt, the fluid is oxidizing and should be changed for sure. Gear oil also has that disgusting sulfur smell as you've noticed, which doesn't help things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 No first-hand experience, but I'd think it can smell pretty bad. The transfer case has no active cooling as far as I know, so I'd think it can get pretty damn hot. If it smells burnt, the fluid is oxidizing and should be changed for sure. Gear oil also has that disgusting sulfur smell as you've noticed, which doesn't help things. Wonderful. When I came back from picking up the Mobil 1 75w90 gear oil (thanks for the coupons!!! Free coolant and some PB blaster) I jokingly asked my dad "hey, you think you could light gear oil on fire? It IS oil" he said "nah, you could probably throw it in a fire and it might smolder" I have no intentions of lighting gear oil on fire and finding out, but it's weird to think about. You would think something that thick wouldn't catch on fire, per se, but it is oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 (edited) I have a new (to me) truck so things have changed a bit, so I'm bumping this thread. FluidsEngine Oil - Valvoline Conventional 5w30 (Going to switch to Synpower on next change) Coolant - Canadian Tire brand regular "green" mixed 60/40 (not long life) ATF - Amsoil ATF MTF - N/A Brake Fluid - Unknown (Plan to replace with Napa DOT3) Power Steering Fluid - Cheap autozone ATF that I put in when I was in Florida. Front Diff - Petro-Canada Brand 80w90 Rear Diff - Motomaster Synthetic 80w90 (For LSD) Transfer Case - Amsoil ATF FiltersOil Filter - Either Bosch, quaker state, or purolater. Depends on availability. Air Filter - Motomaster In-Cabin Air Filter - N/A Fuel Filter - Fram ATF Filter - PO says it was from NAPA, so probably a wix. Change intervalsFluidsEngine Oil - Every 5-6k (km) Coolant - Every 2 years ATF - Every 40k or year. (Year usually comes first) MTF - N/A Brake Fluid - Every time I change the pads. Will be doing this come spring. Power Steering Fluid - I've only done it once so far, in Florida, it fixed my moaning pump. Front Diff - Once a year, but not if I haven't wheeled or used the 4x4 much Rear Diff - Once a year, depending on wheeling time Transfer Case - Same as rear diff FiltersOil Filter - Every oil change Air Filter - When it looks dirty In-Cabin Air Filter - N/A Fuel Filter - Every other year, I do it just before the emissions test usually ATF Filter - Its been about 40k, I will probably inspect it next time I change the fluid I plan on converting the diffs to all the same (more than likely the motomaster, as it is a shell product). This is just what is in there now. Edited February 10, 2013 by adamzan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 Just because a filter looks dirty doesn't mean it's clogged or should necessarily be changed. Filters do get more efficient as they load up with contaminants, and the air filter can flow more than the engine needs anyway - see this post. If you really want to know exactly when to change your engine air filter, you can install a restriction gauge to determine when the filter's restricting flow too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WxChaser Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 Fluids Engine Oil - Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic (If I can find the high mileage synthetic, I get it) 5W-30 Coolant - Prestone mixed 50-50 ATF - N/A MTF - Gear Oil, Lucas (can't remember the weight) Brake Fluid - Prestone DOT3 Power Steering Fluid - Not sure, will be replacing this summer. Front Diff - 75W-90 Rear Diff - Same as Front Transfer Case - Same as Trans Filters Oil Filter - Fram, sometimes a K&N if I need to go a little over 5k Air Filter - STP In-Cabin Air Filter - Factory or aftermarket (haven't replaced) Fuel Filter - Can't remember the brand, got it from O'Reilly ATF Filter - None Fluids Engine Oil - 4,500-5,500 miles, 4500 on Fram filters, 5500 on K&N filters Coolant - Every 36 months or as needed ATF - MTF - Just changed, going to do after 28k Brake Fluid - Whenever it runs low (I have a SLOW leak somewhere that hasn't been pinpointed) Power Steering Fluid - Never, waiting until summer. Front Diff - 40k Rear Diff - 40k, would do sooner than fron diff if $$ is an issue. Transfer Case - Every 40k Filters Oil Filter - Whenever oil changes are done Air Filter - Changed original one when engine was running too rich, will replace after 12k or whenever needed before. In-Cabin Air Filter - Never, haven't bothered to look. Fuel Filter - Changed already, probably won't worry about it for a long while (75-100k) ATF Filter - N/A Change intervals Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 (edited) Have you ensured that Lucas stuff is GL-4 only? You have a WD21 4WD, correct? Have you overfilled the trans accordingly? Fram oil filters are alright, though I'd stick with the ToughGuard (or Ultra, formerly known as XtendedGuard) filters which have a silicone anti-drainback valve versus the ExtraGuard's nitrile. Nitrile can become hard and brittle over time, especially during winter with more extreme heating and cooling cycles. You should be able to go 5.5k with either filter, and up to 7.5k miles safely using M1 and either filter so long as there are no mechanical issues. Everything else looks good. Use a synthetic ATF that claims to meet Dexron III spec for the power steering. Edited February 12, 2013 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WxChaser Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 TC, yeah thankfully I made sure to use GL4! Pure luck.. I havent overfilled yet because I wasnt aware until after fluids were changed. I dont drive enough while at school to worry, but in March when I replace the console to an R50 console, I plan on filling it up from the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WxChaser Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 (edited) This is what I used. Ive considered draining it out and additional Redline MT90 http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=47&catid=12&loc=show Edited February 13, 2013 by WxChaser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted February 13, 2013 Author Share Posted February 13, 2013 (edited) The technical data sheet does not list GL-4, only MT-1. I think you should replace your entire fill with Redline MT-90 or Amsoil MTG, and be sure to overfill of course. Edited February 13, 2013 by Towncivilian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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