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so i was driving home on the freeway going about 60...and boom the pathy dies...so i pull of to start it..and its not starting... it sounds like its turning over slower than it should... i think the timing belt snaped.. but i dont know..anyone have any tips

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Check the oil? Any noticable damage? If its turning over slower check how many volts you have to the battery.. But thats not why it would just quit.. Did you hear a noise when it did this or did it act like it ran out of gas and had no throttle? If the timing belt snapped, or if you even think it snapped, remove the timing belt cover (top half)and visually inspect it, and check to see how tight it is.. hopefully it didnt snap! :(

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Check the oil? Any noticable damage? If its turning over slower check how many volts you have to the battery.. But thats not why it would just quit.. Did you hear a noise when it did this or did it act like it ran out of gas and had no throttle? If the timing belt snapped, or if you even think it snapped, remove the timing belt cover (top half)and visually inspect it, and check to see how tight it is.. hopefully it didnt snap! :(

 

 

 

well i can spin the rotor inside the distributer by hand so i think it did snap

 

ill take pics and ya it just died like it ran out of gas.. but i just filled up.. and when it died the tach jumped up and down alot

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im sure there is bent valves.. cause i tried to start it after it died and there is a tick sound so i think that sound is the piston hitting the valve.. but not sure

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Damn!! Do you know how many miles on that belt?? Square tooth are only rated to 60,000 miles...

 

B

 

have no clue on miles on the belt.. but ive been trying to change the belt for a couple months now but never got around to it because both me and my girl work alot and its our only car,, so i guess i should of done it.. i know the belt says nissan on it,, barely. but it looks very old

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Did you post an ad on Craigslist that I responded to for a timing belt repair?

 

If you want to take a stroll on up here to Vancouver, I've got a good set of heads you can have. Not the greatest but maybe they'll get you by until a proper rebuild can be done? They'll need the lifters and rockers put back in.

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is there a way to tell if the valves are bent by turning the crankshaft? can you rotate the crankshaft all the way 360 degrees with the cams in the tdc spot?......

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is there a way to tell if the valves are bent by turning the crankshaft? can you rotate the crankshaft all the way 360 degrees with the cams in the tdc spot?......

 

I doubt you're going to learn much doing that sort of thing, unless of course you have pieces of valve in your cylinders or something. The engines are barely interference it seems (which is kinda dumb IMHO) so I don't think you can tell much at hand speed.

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I doubt you're going to learn much doing that sort of thing, unless of course you have pieces of valve in your cylinders or something. The engines are barely interference it seems (which is kinda dumb IMHO) so I don't think you can tell much at hand speed.

 

 

 

what i meant was, while turning the crank should there be resistance, like the cylinder building compression, cause all my plugs are in and i can spin the crank fairly easy.

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what i meant was, while turning the crank should there be resistance, like the cylinder building compression, cause all my plugs are in and i can spin the crank fairly easy.

 

Well, I think that sounds kinda bad... I think with both cams as TDC only cylinders 3 and 5 should have an open valve, so you should still get resistance from most cylinders. I try not to spin the crankshaft without the timing belt on though, so I'm not exactly sure what it would feel like :)

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Well, I think that sounds kinda bad... I think with both cams as TDC only cylinders 3 and 5 should have an open valve, so you should still get resistance from most cylinders. I try not to spin the crankshaft without the timing belt on though, so I'm not exactly sure what it would feel like :)

Its still not easy as you still get compression (or should anyways) on the rest of the cylinders. If the heads are at relaxed all the valves are closed so you can turn it safely. What I mean by relaxed is if you turn the cam gear until it is held in place by the valve springs. You can still turn it but you feel a boat load of spring resistance. At that point the valves are closed enough to safly turn the crank and get it all back TDC.

I would relax the heads (you should only need to turn a couple of teeth to get there) and then put the crank tdc then try and time the heads.

 

Personaly I would consider finding a beater while you rebuild the engine/engine swap your pathy.

Good luck.

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Its still not easy as you still get compression (or should anyways) on the rest of the cylinders. If the heads are at relaxed all the valves are closed so you can turn it safely. What I mean by relaxed is if you turn the cam gear until it is held in place by the valve springs. You can still turn it but you feel a boat load of spring resistance. At that point the valves are closed enough to safly turn the crank and get it all back TDC.

I would relax the heads (you should only need to turn a couple of teeth to get there) and then put the crank tdc then try and time the heads.

 

Personaly I would consider finding a beater while you rebuild the engine/engine swap your pathy.

Good luck.

 

 

i can get a motor from a 94 for 400 bucks with just over 100,000 miles but damm this is going to suck

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im buying it on friday.. and im doing a manual swap, sorry.. tired of the lagging auto trans anyway

I didn't happen to see what the listing was. Are you getting another wd21 or are you going to upgrade the engine to a vg33?

Kudos on the auto to manual swap. Its not the hardest thing to do but feel free to PM me if you get stuck I just got done doing it myself.

Regards

ejin

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just another vg30(E) but it needed replaced anyway... and ya im pretty mechanically inclined so i should have no issues.. but if i do run into problems ill let you know..and ill post pics of the whole swap...

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