VW_Factor Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 The only reason I re-routed my old trucks transmission lines through the radiator cooler is because I didn't feel the 12k was providing sufficient cooling, and it was a NEW radiator. You haven't forgotten that there is hot water/coolant in that radiator have you? I simply went with a stacked plate cooler, and the biggest I could get to fit behind the grill. (16k rated I believe). Takes a bit to get lockup in the winter, and after first starting, but otherwise it works great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 You haven't forgotten that there is hot water/coolant in that radiator have you? I simply went with a stacked plate cooler, and the biggest I could get to fit behind the grill. (16k rated I believe). Takes a bit to get lockup in the winter, and after first starting, but otherwise it works great! Right, and thanks to the thermostat in the coolant system, the transmission never got hotter than 180* as I routed the trans cooler lines in to the radiator first, then the after market cooler, and then back to the transmission. Stacked plate coolers are definitely more efficient, but I believe they are more prone to becoming clogged. Tube and fin coolers work just as well, might be a little bigger, but Pathfinder's are certainly not cramped for space, and you don't have to worry to much about them becoming clogged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarehouseRat Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 wow i totally missed it being obd2 at first glance it looked like o2, you sure he didnt edit it........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Seems like everyone did, or deleted. So, I'm seriously considering running my cooling configuration like this: Tranny out into an inline filter/temp sensor, into the radiator cooler, into a front mounted stacked plate style cooler, back to tranny. I also have a new radiator, and besides, the inline filter will trap anything before it can clog the coolers so its a non-issue. That way I get more consistent tranny temps with faster warm ups (I do notice it in the winter) but run cooler than stock without any of the risk. Seems like a win all around... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 (edited) I know I posted OBD2 the first time. Anyway, today I mounted my trans cooler, but didn't run the hoses. I'll need to get some extra hose to run from the aux cooler to the return hard line, since I'll be adding an in-line filter too. Should I buy and use some "Jesus clamps" (the type found on vacuum hoses, etc), two on each end oriented 180 degrees from each other for best connection? Should I worry about where I put the filter, or should debris be a non-issue after running with the filter for a while? I think I'll just install it at the final connection to the return hard line. Edited June 23, 2011 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 'Jesus clamps' didn't pop up anything 1 minute useful from Google, so... I used common worm gear drive clamps, but I suppose spring clamps would be the best way to do it. I put the filter first in line from the tranny output for 2 reasons. 1) I have the temp sensor in the same place and I want to most accurate reading. 2) Why filter after the coolers when cooler clogging is 1/2 the issue? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 (edited) I meant these: Spring clamps. I've just heard of them referred to as Jesus clamps, so... For whatever reason, Magnefine recommends filtering after the transmission cooler on vehicles that aren't brand new. Don't know exactly why. These will do fine, though? Should I use two on each end and orient them 180 degrees from each other? Edited June 23, 2011 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Those are worm gear and squeeze evenly all the way around, they are preferred to the spring clamps. One at each end will suffice. As for which end to put the filter, if you use a plate style, I would put it before, if you use a fin style, it doesn't really matter as it would have to be a pretty friggin big chunk of transmission to clog one of those, but then you have bigger problems! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 (edited) I'll be using this filter: Edited June 23, 2011 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 (edited) The reason for putting the filter after the coolers is probably that the filter is designed to protect the trans, not the coolers. If there's gunk in the coolers, and it comes loose (think heart attack commercials), better to have the filter grab it up. Of course, whatever was in the coolers was going through the trans before, and hadn't made it explode... so... meh. If your trans is making enough crud for the filter placement to matter, filter placement is the least of your problems. Edited June 23, 2011 by Slartibartfast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 If your trans is making enough crud for the filter placement to matter, filter placement is the least of your problems. Or... you could just put the filter before the @!*% hits the coolers, that way you don't have to worry about crud clogging up the cooler tubes and lowering the pressure in the system and it releasing later on. Stop it before it becomes a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 (edited) On the topic of hose clamps, I used this style for everything on my truck. They seem to clamp more evenly and they look nicer. Edited June 23, 2011 by adamzan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Those are fuel line clamps and they work really well. I yank every one I see of any Nissan in the junk yards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 (edited) Here is how I mounted the trans cooler: I'm going to see if any of the included mounting hardware will rust within a few days before running the hoses. Anybody see any problems with this set up? I'll be running the hose into the lower bumper near the windshield washer fluid reservoir, I think that'll provide plenty of clearance and shouldn't interfere with the stock undercover. I will get some fuel line clamps and 4ft of more hose and I should be set for the hoses. The cooler return line is indeed on the passenger side, correct? That's what it is according to a TSB. These clamps ok? Edited June 23, 2011 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Any hose claps of the correct size will work, I just prefer the ones I posted because I think they look nicer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 I believe the fuel line clamps actually do apply more even pressure around the hose than the standard gear clamps. They are available in all sizes if you look around enough. Whatever clamps you get I would get stainless ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 I ran the hoses today. I used the included band clamps for all the hoses, and everything turned out OK. I got an additional 5ft of hose (I asked for 4, the guy at the auto parts store was generous to give me 5ft for the price of 4 since only the 5ft was left, and a 1ft piece of hose would not sell ) for the aux cooler input line. Both of the hoses were too long, but I'd rather have some slack than for them to be too short by like 2 inches. The band clamps all looked like this. Perhaps I'll eventually replace them all with fuel line clamps from the junkyard. I didn't tighten the clamp around the stock cooler's output enough at first and it leaked. After tightening that, I tested thoroughly before actually driving by revving up to around 1500-2000rpm in all the gears and there were no more leaks. On the drive back though, the trans was acting a bit funny, seems like it was hunting for gears or something, but maybe I just was iffy with the throttle or something... since it was raining and dark I didn't check for leaks when I arrived home, but will check in the morning. I didn't lose very much fluid, maybe 300mL, and strangely the fluid level still remained in the middle of the "HOT" mark, so I did not need to add any more fluid. I was expecting to add at least some due to the additional capacity of the cooler and the in-line filter... I'll have to check the fluid again. The stock cooler's output line is on the passenger side as indicated by TSB NTB00-056b "1988 AND LATER NISSAN VEHICLES AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER CLEANING". I secured the hoses using a few zip-ties. I'll need to see if the stock undercover will still fit properly; the only thing that might interfere with it is the bottoms of the cooler's mounting hardware. I will post some pictures of how I routed the hoses tomorrow. Overall it was a very easy install, didn't take more than an hour total to mount the cooler and run the hoses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 (edited) If the transmission in the caR50 is anything like the one in the wd2(1/2), and I'm pretty positive it is!, then you have the cooler lines switched up. IN to the transmission is the line on the passenger side, OUT of the transmission is on the driver side. OH DERP, I misread your post. yeah, the line hook ups on the radiator... leaning over the radiator looking toward the back of the vehicle, you are correct. Edited June 25, 2011 by silverton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 I verified the lines before running any hoses and after running the final hoses, I'm sure I got them correct I'm sure bad things would have happened by now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 I honestly don't think it matters, it's fluid that flows and will flow regardless. As for the stock cooler, it's just a tube that runs through the bottom portion of the radiator that is surrounded by engine coolant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 Would it really make that much difference if the flow through the cooler was backwards? Anyway, clearly the cooler and lines have some finite volume, so the fluid level should be lower. But maybe it's just hard to tell. You could worry about some sort of air lock I guess... but you had fluid leaking out, that is probably a good sign in a way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 Well, the filter is designed to be installed with flow going one direction, but Ford has tested it installed backwards for thousands of hours (IIRC) without issues, and I read that someone on BITOG had one installed backwards by a shop and it still filtered stuff properly, but I'm not sure if the bypass valve would function correctly should it be needed. I'm 99% sure I installed the cooler and filter on the return line from the stock cooler, otherwise I wouldn't have a bunch of pressurized transmission fluid spraying out into a drain pan after disconnecting the hose on the passenger side hard line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 (edited) Here are some terrible photos of how I routed my hoses: The monstrosity of the Magnefine in-line filter prevents me from routing the hoses in a way that I can use the stock undercover. Looks like I'll be rolling without it from now on. You can see in the first pic that the cooler outlet seems to still have some fluid on it, I'm not certain if that's just residue or if it's a really slow and small leak. I'll wipe the area with brake cleaner and see if it reappears. I'll also need to verify my trans fluid level, as I definitely lost some... I'm wondering why the dipstick still showed the correct level. Edited July 18, 2011 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BubbaFL Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 What size inline filter did you use? The barbs I have are brass, rated for 150psi (couldn't find a temperature rating) - will these work or do I need to look for something tougher? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 What size inline filter did you use? The barbs I have are brass, rated for 150psi (couldn't find a temperature rating) - will these work or do I need to look for something tougher? The Magnefine I bought has 3/8" fittings or whatever they are. I confirmed this with an email to the company before I bought the filter; both the trans and P/S return lines are 3/8" hose. I don't know about barbs, sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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