trenton163 Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 hey everyone, I have read (and searched) a lot on here about Automatic Transmission coolers, including Dr Bills write up (which was very helpful). But I am still wondering where other people have mounted theirs? I know that a lot have put theirs in front of the AC radiator, but all the ones that I have seen like that are running vertically, and I have read on here that that is a bad idea. The other options is to run it in between the Main radiator and the AC radiator, which is what I am leaning to. I guess I am just curious if anyone has mounted it in another location or can recommend a spot to mount it. Thanks, Trenton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 Mount it to the front of the AC condenser. It will get the most air flow this way, and not get heat soak from the radiator and AC condenser. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trenton163 Posted June 19, 2011 Author Share Posted June 19, 2011 (edited) Mount it to the front of the AC condenser. It will get the most air flow this way, and not get heat soak from the radiator and AC condenser. Thanks, do I have to mount it vertically if I do it that way? I read that it is not to mount them like that because if you get air in the system it wont be able to pass it through the cooler, or is that just being over cautious? Also,I have a new radiator, so should I still bypass it in favor of the external cooler? Edited June 19, 2011 by trenton163 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 Always bypass the factory cooler, it's pretty much the inherent problem causing transmission failures. I've always mounted the coolers sideways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trenton163 Posted June 19, 2011 Author Share Posted June 19, 2011 okay thanks, does this seem adequate, I live where it snows in the winter and it gets over 100 in the summer. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-70255/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 I wish they would universally rate the coolers by poundage. Generally, a 16,000LB cooler is the minimum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 Fluid Cooler, Transmission, Plate-Type, Aluminum, Black, 5 3/4 in. x 11 in. x 3/4 in. The key here is the width and that one is only 5.75", I'll have to measure mine when I get home, but I run the same type and plan to go one size larger. You can use the stock tranny cooler if you use an inline filter that will catch any debris before it can enter the cooler and clog it. Also I have heard that some aftermarket coolers have bigger lines that don't clog as well, but how do you really tell that? By running the stock cooler the tranny will heat up faster, but will only cool to 180 degrees (what ever the radiator is at) and will actually dump heat into the cooling system, especially on hot days, towing, etc exactly when you don't want that. I'm still trying to figure out the best system to cool an auto tranny, but so far an inline filter, bypassing the stock cooler and running a straight aftermarket coller in font of the radiator with an inline temp gauge seems to work fine. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trenton163 Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 The key here is the width and that one is only 5.75", I'll have to measure mine when I get home, but I run the same type and plan to go one size larger. You can use the stock tranny cooler if you use an inline filter that will catch any debris before it can enter the cooler and clog it. Also I have heard that some aftermarket coolers have bigger lines that don't clog as well, but how do you really tell that? By running the stock cooler the tranny will heat up faster, but will only cool to 180 degrees (what ever the radiator is at) and will actually dump heat into the cooling system, especially on hot days, towing, etc exactly when you don't want that. I'm still trying to figure out the best system to cool an auto tranny, but so far an inline filter, bypassing the stock cooler and running a straight aftermarket coller in font of the radiator with an inline temp gauge seems to work fine. B I was looking at the Derale kit that you posted in another post, and I was wondering how you mounted the gauge? Could you post some pics of the install. Also, how hard was it to wire up the gauge? Thanks, Trenton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trenton163 Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 I wish they would universally rate the coolers by poundage. Generally, a 16,000LB cooler is the minimum. Okay, cool thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 How did Nissan solve the stock cooler issues with the R50? I've read somewhere that all they did was make the inner passages of the cooler larger to avoid debris clogging. See here for Precise1's trans temp gauge install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 People say that you shouldn't put anything less than 18,000 pound cooler. That's what I went with when I replaced my transmission. I'm also running Amsoil synthetic fluid in it, and it doesn't appear to get any hotter than 160* and that's under heavy load out in the woods. 1st gear in 4LO on a steep incline. I have it mounted between the A/C Condenser and the radiator, it's a perfect spot. http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/translife-coolers.html 4112 is 12k, 4116 is 16k, etc etc. I ran a 12,000 pound cooler on my old truck, and it wouldn't get any hotter than 180* on the trail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 I got a 13k BTU B&M cooler for my R50 and a Magnefine in-line filter, still need to install though. I'll be putting it in-line with the stock cooler, plus my Pathfinder stays on pavement (heh, caR50) so I shouldn't have any issues with this small-ish cooler, right? I'm not sure how hot my trans runs around town, gotta have a buddy ride shotgun with a laptop to read the temp sensor thru ODB2 for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 lol how does the o2 sensor tell you anything about the tranny temp, must be a super smart O2 sensor I think he said thru the ODB2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 lol how does the o2 sensor tell you anything about the tranny temp, must be a super smart O2 sensor For being 13 year ASE certified, you sure are smart. OBD2 is On-Board Diagnostics Revision 2. Way more smarterer than the 1st version, you can hook in to it and find out EVERYTHING the sensors are seeing in real time. It's like having a standalone, but without the tuneability. Also, a 13k should be fine as long as you don't do any towing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 I do very infrequent light towing, maybe once a year, generally not even that. I assume the combination of stock & aux coolers can deal with it, and I would check the fluid condition after towing and do a drain & fill if required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 I noticed better transmission temperatures when using the stock cooler coupled with the after market. My suggestion is to have the stock cooler in line first, and then run to the after market cooler. Will be able to cool better that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 I noticed better transmission temperatures when using the stock cooler coupled with the after market. My suggestion is to have the stock cooler in line first, and then run to the after market cooler. Will be able to cool better that way. I think an in-line filter before entering the stock cooler is a very good addition to prevent a WD21 stock cooler from clogging (as somebody mentioned above), if one chooses to plumb them in-line like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 I think running the factory cooler with a good aftermarket one is really silly. They're prone to failure (caused by way too much debris from the RE4s) and with a 16-18K cooler it isn't necessary. It's super easy to run the lines to where the aftermarket cooler is mounted up front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 I think running the factory cooler with a good aftermarket one is really silly. They're prone to failure (caused by way too much debris from the RE4s) and with a 16-18K cooler it isn't necessary. It's super easy to run the lines to where the aftermarket cooler is mounted up front. Yeah but in the winter here it takes forever for it to lockup the Torque converter until you've been driving for a while. Sometimes even if you've just been letting it idle it will go back to not locking up in the cold till you've been driving a bit. That is in like -30C though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 The only reason I re-routed my old trucks transmission lines through the radiator cooler is because I didn't feel the 12k was providing sufficient cooling, and it was a NEW radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJSquirrel Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Thermal bypass valve Usage Instructions(pdf) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trenton163 Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 (edited) Okay so what I think that I am going to do is mount this http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=T&Product_Code=4454&Category_Code=tru-cool-thin in front of the AC radiator and bypass the main radiator, and run a inline filter before it (below).Seems weird to me that the temp starts at 140, just my opinion. http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=T&Product_Code=13091&Category_Code=filter-temp I think that since I have a new radiator, if it it doesn't work, or if it is to cold in the winter I can re-work in to run the the radiator as well using that "thermal bypass valve" RJSquirrel posted. Am I correct in my logic? I hope that my confusion is able to help someone else is the future haha! Edited June 21, 2011 by trenton163 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Yeah but in the winter here it takes forever for it to lockup the Torque converter until you've been driving for a while. Sometimes even if you've just been letting it idle it will go back to not locking up in the cold till you've been driving a bit. That is in like -30C though. Inline thermostat like most manufacturers use on rigs equipped with an accessory transmission cooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 You guys have me wondering what my trans cooler capacity is. They installed it after a tranny rebuild but, never told me the stats. Could there be a way to get a "ball park" idea by looking at the measurement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Yes, you need to supply a description of the type (stacked plate, fin and tube, etc), make and model if possible, a picture and the measurements I was looking at the Derale kit that you posted in another post, and I was wondering how you mounted the gauge? Could you post some pics of the install. Also, how hard was it to wire up the gauge? Thanks, Trenton I mounted the gauge in the lower dash of my 95. I used a hole saw, but goofed the first time (1/4" to high so it wouldn't mount). Thank the parts truck for the second try... Wiring was simple. I got a 13k BTU B&M cooler for my R50 and a Magnefine in-line filter, still need to install though. I'll be putting it in-line with the stock cooler, plus my Pathfinder stays on pavement (heh, caR50) so I shouldn't have any issues with this small-ish cooler, right? I'm not sure how hot my trans runs around town, gotta have a buddy ride shotgun with a laptop to read the temp sensor thru ODB2 for that. It will help a lot run in series like that and since you don't wheel or tow a lot it should be all you could even need/want. Okay so what I think that I am going to do is mount this http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=T&Product_Code=4454&Category_Code=tru-cool-thin in front of the AC radiator and bypass the main radiator, and run a inline filter before it (below).Seems weird to me that the temp starts at 140, just my opinion. http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=T&Product_Code=13091&Category_Code=filter-temp I think that since I have a new radiator, if it it doesn't work, or if it is to cold in the winter I can re-work in to run the the radiator as well using that "thermal bypass valve" RJSquirrel posted. Am I correct in my logic? I hope that my confusion is able to help someone else is the future haha! Yeah, that should work just fine also. 140 is because most trannys run at 180+ degrees; the gauge I got starts at 100. That kit is very similiar to what I have set up. A little pricy though, I think you could piece it together for $60-80. Here is 1/2 the kit for $25... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=29350&view=findpost&p=574628 B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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