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OEM. Look in the services provided section. Theres a member here named Alkorahil that is our local Parts person and he gets us a bit of a deal on parts. Start there first. I don't like trusting Aftermarket parts for engine components since most of the time the don't always fit just PERFECT. If you are doing the water pump, you may want to do the temp sensor, timing belt, cam seals, and crank seals since it will all have to come out anyway. That is if you have no idea when it was last serviced. Those aren't very expensive and the cost to have them done is all in labor. For a 95 I believe the timing belt needs to be changed every 100,000 miles.

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To be honest I wouldn't touch the crank or cam seals unless they were leaking. I know some people like to do them anyways but if they've made it this far without leaking....

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Thanks for the feedback. I have already bought new seals and a thermostat. I am also doing both radiator hoses and the bypass hose. Of course im doing the timing belt and tensioner as well. Am I missing anything?

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To be honest I wouldn't touch the crank or cam seals unless they were leaking. I know some people like to do them anyways but if they've made it this far without leaking....

so the week after u do everything u are willing to do it again when the seals leak and ruin your new timing belt LOL

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so the week after u do everything u are willing to do it again when the seals leak and ruin your new timing belt LOL

 

Well you can bugger up the install of the new seal and you will be doing it over again, you can have a bad new seal and do it over again, and etc.

 

I'm with adamzan, if you are doing the work and the seals look good and don't leak leave them be. If they do start to leak (there is a high probability that they won't) then you take it apart and fix it. There won't be any catastrophic failure if your cam seal leaks a little.

 

Heck since the water pump is driven by the v-belts, if the pump isn't leaking and works good leave it be.

 

Murphy's law - the part that breaks will be the old one that is next in line to the new one.

Edited by 2milehi
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I'd do the main front seal too. As far as cam seals, when I did my timing belt and water pump, I didn't use the cam seals I had bought because I lacked a way to get the bolt off that holds the cam gear on without turning the whole cam. There is a special tool you can use to help, but I didn't have one. The bolts are fairly tight. I didn't want to risk bending valves when all looked fine. I did try to get the bolts loose with what I had, but they didn't budge. Also, when putting everything back together, make sure when you put the harmonic balancer on check to make sure you don't bend/break off the lowest screw hole (for the timing belt cover) that is part of the oil pump casting. Somehow my balancer went on too far or something and bent it. Still not sure how that happened.... :scratchhead:

Edited by porsche4786
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so the week after u do everything u are willing to do it again when the seals leak and ruin your new timing belt LOL

Well, it's been almost 3 years since I did my timing belt service, and I lose zero oil between changes so I assume they are still fine. And if they do start leaking, I'll just throw a new belt on there.

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Well you can bugger up the install of the new seal and you will be doing it over again, you can have a bad new seal and do it over again, and etc.

 

I'm with adamzan, if you are doing the work and the seals look good and don't leak leave them be. If they do start to leak (there is a high probability that they won't) then you take it apart and fix it. There won't be any catastrophic failure if your cam seal leaks a little.

 

Heck since the water pump is driven by the v-belts, if the pump isn't leaking and works good leave it be.

 

Murphy's law - the part that breaks will be the old one that is next in line to the new one.

Tex has been keeping track of the number for leaky seals VS non-leaking and IIRC 2/3 of the motors have a leaking seal, usually the passenger side cam seal. Mine was leaking and I changed both cam and the crank seal.

 

 

If you reuse the waterpump, make sure to clock the fan clutch and that it mounts exactly the same way. If you change the balance/runout of a used waterpump, it generally won't last too long. I replaced everything when I changed my timing belt, including the water pump and fan clutch. I insist on reliability, my time is $ so I like to do hings right and once when I can and I do not plan to touch anything on the front of the motor for the next 100k miles... ;)

 

B

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Tex has been keeping track of the number for leaky seals VS non-leaking and IIRC 2/3 of the motors have a leaking seal, usually the passenger side cam seal. Mine was leaking and I changed both cam and the crank seal.

 

Poll any experienced tech in our shop and they will agree....if there is a leaking camshaft seal it will be the right side seal.

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I used a water pump from advance auto. That's been 2 years and 30k miles ago. No problems so far.

 

 

I will never again used a reman water pump from a supply house, I went thru soo many napa waterpumps on my rx7 before having one rebuilt. They said whoever rebuilt the waterpump had used cheap seals. I had one last a minute, one last a couple hours, and one last a month. Then I finally had it rebuild properly.

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...I insist on reliability, my time is $ so I like to do hings right and once when I can and I do not plan to touch anything on the front of the motor for the next 100k miles...

 

If it is reliability you are insisting on then with that train of thought, you should get a new engine. But wait why stop there, everything is wore out at 100k miles. So you should buy a new vehicle for that piece of mind. LOL

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If it is reliability you are insisting on then with that train of thought, you should get a new engine. But wait why stop there, everything is wore out at 100k miles. So you should buy a new vehicle for that piece of mind. LOL

 

So true. You could always add one more thing "while your in there".

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