Matt94pathy4x4 Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 I know this engine is a reliable one. Having 240000 miles on it is a big mile markerin any motors service life. I don't have alot of money and I need this thing to get to workand and school. What should I do? I am plannin on keeping the motor if it is advisable so I can rebuild it. But until then. What Are the main things I can do to keep it running strong and right besides basic maintenence and such ? Or is it possible to buy a remanufzctured or rebuilt one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 Change the timing belt and waterpump. There are multiple write ups on doing this. It's not that hard and you can save like 400 dollars in shop labor by doing it yourself. Change the plugs,wires, rotor and cap, filters (air, fuel), pcv valve, vacuum lines if they're cracked at all. Maybe even the o2 sensor for good measure and you should have it running perfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt94pathy4x4 Posted December 15, 2010 Author Share Posted December 15, 2010 Ya I got the plugs, wires,fuel filter and new optima battery. New air filter too. My family has always done everything at home. My father an brothers are both full time mechanics but I like learning on my own. Call me retarded. Ha. As of right Now she ain't runnin. I ad a probelm a month ago. I was crusin along. And something went I guess and it shot down to around 1500 to1000 rpms and was shaking and stalling so bad I had to pull over. It felt like something was giving out. I let it sit a few hour cuz luckily I broke down in front of a friends house. And I came back and it started right up and if you gave it any ga it did the same thing. Now when I start it it does just fine but if you let it run or awhile it will give you hell. Then I let it sit or a bit an it's fine ... And so on! Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 General and basic maintenance IS basicly the primary to keep a 3.0 humming along. As Adamzan said, timingbelt/waterpump job is a must especially if you don't know when it was last done(interference motor+snapping a t-belt=1 sad little panda), and the writeup will basicly hold your hand the whole way through. You ain't gonna win any street races... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt94pathy4x4 Posted December 15, 2010 Author Share Posted December 15, 2010 Hahaha man no ignorance over ere I ain't got any racing in my future plans with this. I just wanna be able to drive to work and school without th wheels falling off and the thing reducing itself to rubble when I hit a pothole. A little muddin everynow and then is the hardest I'll put it through. Since this is tennessee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 Well, it won't run well when warm. My first guess is the temp sensor and a close second is O2 sensor, but that is after normal tune up items are verified/replaced. There was a guy who posted over 500,000 miles on his pathfinder, but 250-300 seems to be the normal effective service life of these motors, which is amazing if you consider it... Look around for a parts vehicle, either locally or on line that has a low mileage engine. Just make sure it is from a trust worthy source... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt94pathy4x4 Posted December 15, 2010 Author Share Posted December 15, 2010 Well, it won't run well when warm. My first guess is the temp sensor and a close second is O2 sensor, but that is after normal tune up items are verified/replaced. There was a guy who posted over 500,000 miles on his pathfinder, but 250-300 seems to be the normal effective service life of these motors, which is amazing if you consider it... Look around for a parts vehicle, either locally or on line that has a low mileage engine. Just make sure it is from a trust worthy source... B Ya. I was looking around on here some guy said he seemed to have the same probelm and it was a crack in the intake tube. Betwen filter and manifold. But do you think it could be the fuel pump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 Yes, that can happen also and actually falls under the vacuum lines Adam mentioned as tune up items. Just trouble shoot as much as you can before buying parts, it can save a lot of headache and cash. Fuel pump?? Perhaps, but not first on my list. Pressure regulator or fuel filter before the pump but all are easy to check. Several people have had problems with their coolant sensors, the ECU uses it to meter fuel and a mechanic recommended it being changed at (lengthy) intervals... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 Yes, that can happen also and actually falls under the vacuum lines Adam mentioned as tune up items. Just trouble shoot as much as you can before buying parts, it can save a lot of headache and cash. Fuel pump?? Perhaps, but not first on my list. Pressure regulator or fuel filter before the pump but all are easy to check. Several people have had problems with their coolant sensors, the ECU uses it to meter fuel and a mechanic recommended it being changed at (lengthy) intervals... B Yep, at this age, I would change the coolant temp sensor no matter what, and it may fix your problem too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 What about just testing the coolant sensor? The FSM tells you the resistance you should measure at various temps (can measure in pot of water etc.) or do you think it's best to replace? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 17, 2010 Share Posted December 17, 2010 IIRC a procedure to test has been discussed and the sensor is sub $10. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted December 17, 2010 Share Posted December 17, 2010 IIRC a procedure to test has been discussed and the sensor is sub $10. B Yeah, I guess you'd be crazy to bother draining coolant and pulling it and then not replacing it, just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt94pathy4x4 Posted December 20, 2010 Author Share Posted December 20, 2010 Well I was planning on changing the temp sensor or something cause no matter how long you drive it or let it run it barely moves a cm or two higher than it would if it was off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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