ahardb0dy Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 I took the warn hubs apart that I just bought at the junkyard and cleaned them all out, today I took the snap ring off on the back side and discovered the flat washer that is on the inside that sits on the splined part is really thin and broke in one spot. I don't think Warn sells individual parts so anyone know where I can get a replacement?? Also when I took the hubs apart and removed the thin metal lock ring so the internal gear and spring could come out, not sure which way the gear goes back in, the hub seems to work with the gear in either way but want to have it back together correctly. One side of the gear is flat and the other has a recessed surface. Anyone know which side goes facing out?? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 I took the warn hubs apart that I just bought at the junkyard and cleaned them all out, today I took the snap ring off on the back side and discovered the flat washer that is on the inside that sits on the splined part is really thin and broke in one spot. I don't think Warn sells individual parts so anyone know where I can get a replacement?? Also when I took the hubs apart and removed the thin metal lock ring so the internal gear and spring could come out, not sure which way the gear goes back in, the hub seems to work with the gear in either way but want to have it back together correctly. One side of the gear is flat and the other has a recessed surface. Anyone know which side goes facing out?? Thanks i am pretty sure the recessed side faces out. wait for someone else to chime in. post a pic of the washer. i don't recall mine having that part in them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 6, 2010 Author Share Posted October 6, 2010 I just found a pic of the hubs being installed on an xterra and it shows the recessed side facing out so I'm good on that, the washer I am talking about is inside the hub, you can't see it unless you take the splined part at the bottom rear of the hub out. When I took the snap ring off on the back of the hub the splined part falls inside the hub body (with hub upside down), on the splined part is a flat washer, think it is a thrust washer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 I think warn sells a rebuild kit...Hit up Steeevo at Ruggedrocksoffroad.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 7, 2010 Author Share Posted October 7, 2010 Thanks, I sent a message to Warn they replied the rebuild kit only contains gaskets and o-rings, the guy said they have never offered any internal parts but he did ask me to send him a picture of the part I need and he would see what he could do, so ..... now I have to take the hub apart for the fifth-teen time to take a picture!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 9, 2010 Author Share Posted October 9, 2010 sent pics to Warn and got a reply, they are going to send out 2 new thrust washers, great customer service knowing I didn't even buy the hubs new !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 19, 2010 Author Share Posted October 19, 2010 received the washers in the mail today from Warn, they sent me 4 !! Ran up to the hardware store and picked up 5 new studs,nuts and new allen head screws for the outer dial and installed the hubs today. Have to stop at another hardware store to get the rest of the studs, Pics below: Pass side: Drivers side: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 NIce trimwork on the lego covers. it looks really good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 trim work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 19, 2010 Author Share Posted October 19, 2010 (edited) He was referring to how I made the center cap hole larger so the Warn hub would fit. The top pic I have to sand the edge of the hole a little more, I cut that one out using an exacto knife blade, the lower hole I used the dremel. Thanks I jacked the wheels up one at a time and they actually work!! LOL Thanks!! Edited October 19, 2010 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverPath Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 (edited) He opened the cap more so the hub will fit through the middle. Seems you beat me to it Edited October 19, 2010 by SilverPath Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted October 19, 2010 Share Posted October 19, 2010 Looks great. I love how you have a lot of weights on one tire and none on the other haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 19, 2010 Author Share Posted October 19, 2010 Looks great. I love how you have a lot of weights on one tire and none on the other haha. they came that way when I bought the truck, when the tires have no tread they use more weight!! LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 (edited) Ressurection! What studs did you use? Edited October 17, 2012 by andreus009 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 18, 2012 Author Share Posted October 18, 2012 I got them from Ace Hardware, don't recall the specifics, but they had them in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 Ok. I'll give them a try. I tried Fastenal near my work yesterday and they didn't have anything suitable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 (edited) I used grade 10.9 M6x1x30 M8x1.25 x30mm sockethead cap screws IIRC. I see no reason studs are superior, but everyone has a different opinions. B Oops, bad thread info... Edited October 22, 2012 by Precise1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 X2 on The excellent customer service at warn. I call them from time to time and they are always awesome. Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 I used grade 10.9 M6x1x30 sockethead cap screws IIRC. I see no reason studs are superior, but everyone has a different opinions. B It's not the strength I'm concern about so much but the engagement. If you look at the wheel hub/flange where the Warn hubs mount to you will notice that the threads start about a 0.25 inch below the surface. Generally speaking the reason this is done is so that the round body of the bolt/stud will be in this area and carry the load instead put the threaded section in shear. The problem with the cap screws I have found is that the round body of is only about 0.25 inch long which is only enough for the Warn hub itself and it doesn't protude into round section of the wheel hub/flange. I just went through an ordeal of removing 4 broken bolts on my driver side. Partly my fault because I used stainless hardware that didn't want to stay tight for some reason, so I think they broke partly because they loosened up. Never the less, I'm starting to wheel harder so I would like to make sure this joint is as strong as possible and avoid breaking more bolts. X2 on The excellent customer service at warn. I call them from time to time and they are always awesome. Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2 SteeevO...I called that number you gave me and it just re-directed me to call a local dealer. Maybe I didn't select the right option? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted October 22, 2012 Author Share Posted October 22, 2012 I contacted them by e-mail and they wrote right back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 Thanks. I'll give that a shot when I have a chance. Busy day at work so far. Ugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 It's not the strength I'm concern about so much but the engagement. If you look at the wheel hub/flange where the Warn hubs mount to you will notice that the threads start about a 0.25 inch below the surface. Generally speaking the reason this is done is so that the round body of the bolt/stud will be in this area and carry the load instead put the threaded section in shear. The problem with the cap screws I have found is that the round body of is only about 0.25 inch long which is only enough for the Warn hub itself and it doesn't protude into round section of the wheel hub/flange. I just went through an ordeal of removing 4 broken bolts on my driver side. Partly my fault because I used stainless hardware that didn't want to stay tight for some reason, so I think they broke partly because they loosened up. Never the less, I'm starting to wheel harder so I would like to make sure this joint is as strong as possible and avoid breaking more bolts. Good point, I don't recall seeing that myself, but I wasn't looking for it. In that scenario, yes, the studs would be better supported, but only if the bore/OD was firmly engaged. I could have sworn that people had issues with Warns supplied studs so they might not be a good source. LOL, apparently you know that as per your post... Posted 16 November 2009 - 07:03 PM Heads up on the studs and nuts that come with the WARN hubs. Don't use them. There is a thread around here for alternatives to replace them with, but the studs that WARN provides are weak and brittle. I broke one at the recommended install torque. Imagine my shock. I installed grade 8 socket head cap screws initially, but later swapped out with SS ones because the others were rusting. I would recommend the SS ones, but there is a risk of galvanic corrosion because of dissimilar metals. I haven't had the opportunity to take them back out to see if any corrosion is occurring. I can provide the McMaster-Carr part # for the stainless bolts if you are really interested. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 (edited) Well, since my post was in 2009 I was hoping that Warn may have resolved the issue by now with their studs. Was going to ask about it. As you can tell by my recent posts the stainless didn't work out so well but that may have more to do with them loosening on their own, but if the body of bolt had engaged the unthreaded bore on the wheel hub/flange it would have limited the bending of the bolt and lessen the likelihood of breakage. If it is not a super tight fit it is still better than having threads in this area because the are definitely smaller in diameter than the body of the bolt. Edited October 23, 2012 by andreus009 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 Absolutely, the minor diameter of the thread is smaller than shoulder and the weakest point. Try this place... http://catalog.automotivefasteners.com/viewitems/threaded-fasteners-rods-and-studs/metric-studs B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted October 23, 2012 Share Posted October 23, 2012 Thanks B. Think the 675-333 will work...just need to recheck the Warn hub flange thickness. I know the un-threaded portion in wheel hub is about .25" [6.35mm] deep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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