Yendor Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 (edited) I really thought some other things would break before these did. We tied a tow strap around the frame and the UCA to limp back 30km for a tow. Edited August 16, 2010 by Yendor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 Did you break the bolts or strip out the threads?? There has been some input about insufficient thread engagement with some aftermarket UCAs, especially if a lot of shimming is required. Longer bolts are recommended, +5mm IIRC. I believe it was MY1PATH who went into depth about this? Sorry it happened, that sucks. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuong Nguyen Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 judging by the pictures they looked like they snapped inside the threads. I went with longer bolts. +5mm and 10mm just to be on the safe side. I was running stock arms though so you can figure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 Been there done that. On my first WD21. Drill it out, and if you can, re-tap the hole. Absolute worst case, drill it larger, and use a helicoil. That's what I had to do, and it held strong for 2 years that I had it after that episode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted August 16, 2010 Share Posted August 16, 2010 Wow. Sorry to see that bud! I went with longer bolts myself, PITA to get the right ones, but when I did my issues were gone... How did this happen?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted August 17, 2010 Share Posted August 17, 2010 oh snap! literally. Now I'm scared with mine, cause one side has the use of 4 shims! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yendor Posted August 17, 2010 Author Share Posted August 17, 2010 (edited) I was going over some pretty rocky terrain when this happened. My front tire was tucked up beside a rock and my truck wanted to move to the left. I guess the rock won. Since the truck is my daily driver too, it really sucks being without wheels. And my wife took our other vehicle to visit her folks. I actually had to take the bus to work today. The first time I've been on a bus in about 10 years. Edited August 17, 2010 by Yendor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted August 17, 2010 Share Posted August 17, 2010 (edited) so would longer bolts have kept that from happening? I bought longer bolts when I got my UCA's but ended up just using the original bolts, makes me wonder if I should dig up the longer ones I bought and put those in Edited August 17, 2010 by headpeace Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted August 17, 2010 Share Posted August 17, 2010 Hmmm...that is interesting.... I used longer bolts in order to get the correct camber...but I don't know if it would fix the issue he had... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted August 17, 2010 Share Posted August 17, 2010 Not even close. If the holes stripped out, the longer bolts may have helped, but those are snapped clean. I've never seen the need for longer bolts with aftermarket UCA's, unless the front end was cranked WAY too high. Even then, it was debatable. With stock UCA's and a really high front end, yep, I can see the need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted August 17, 2010 Share Posted August 17, 2010 so as long as I was able to have it aligned correctly it shouldn't matter I guess Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted August 17, 2010 Share Posted August 17, 2010 oh snap! literally. Now I'm scared with mine, cause one side has the use of 4 shims! 60mm bolts are optimal, they give you 10mm more thread than the 55mm pilot tiped(5mm blank @ the tip) stock bolts but will not bottom out if you have no shims. If your rig has more than 3/8" of shimms in more than one location I reconmend lowering it so it can be aligned with less. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan89 Posted August 17, 2010 Share Posted August 17, 2010 when i did my uca lift, i drilled out the oem bolt holes completely. then tapped with an over-sized stud. made the stud about and inch longer than the oem bolts. now i can stack as many shims as i need. my truck aligns easily at most shops, and when i let go of the wheel on the highway doing 75, it rides like its on rails. just my 2cents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 17, 2010 Share Posted August 17, 2010 Hmmm...that is interesting.... I used longer bolts in order to get the correct camber...but I don't know if it would fix the issue he had... Not even close. If the holes stripped out, the longer bolts may have helped, but those are snapped clean. I've never seen the need for longer bolts with aftermarket UCA's, unless the front end was cranked WAY too high. Even then, it was debatable. With stock UCA's and a really high front end, yep, I can see the need. Actually, it very well could have. What grade bolts did you use and what grade are stock?? If you went with a higher grade, less chance of snapping them... I'm going to have to try to figure out the stock bolt grade now. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted August 17, 2010 Share Posted August 17, 2010 Sure, a stronger grade of bolt might have helped (though, this is also debatable, as too hard a bolt would be more brittle) but we weren't discussing that. The question was if longer bolts would have helped, and the answer is no. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 17, 2010 Share Posted August 17, 2010 Stuck on the length issue again?? Dude, I was looking at the big picture in answering his question. He may have inadvertently put in superior longer bolts. FYI I just checked there are no markings on the UCA bolts so I'll have to figure it out some other way. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yendor Posted August 17, 2010 Author Share Posted August 17, 2010 Sure, a stronger grade of bolt might have helped (though, this is also debatable, as too hard a bolt would be more brittle) but we weren't discussing that. The question was if longer bolts would have helped, and the answer is no. What grade of bolt would you suggest I put in there? Grade 8? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted August 18, 2010 Share Posted August 18, 2010 ouch....i woulda checked the shock bolts to see if they were the same and if so i woulda ran shockless up front just to get back to the main road...i'm a big fan of disabling something to enable something more important but glad to see you got it back in mostly one piece Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 18, 2010 Share Posted August 18, 2010 What grade of bolt would you suggest I put in there? Grade 8? No, mainly because grade 8 is standard specs, not metric. You would probably want to use at least grade 10.9 or maybe 12.9; grade 8 falls in between, closer to 12.9 IIRC. 'Brittle' is too vague as shear strength is in play as well as more tension load so actual bolt specs are the way to go, not ballparks. I haven't looked into it yet, but see if you can find the specs on the stock bolts (and remember how long they lasted) and then it is easy to spec out the 'new and improved' bolt. Seriously, try to find the info and let us know either way, I'll help if you need it. I'd love (and several others) to change to other bolts before this happened, it's worth investigation and pinning. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted August 18, 2010 Share Posted August 18, 2010 Ouch! Looks like you toasted the CV too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yendor Posted August 18, 2010 Author Share Posted August 18, 2010 I got around to removing what was left of the bolts tonight (only the back one, the other one is stuck good!) and it looks like the half of the threading in the bolt holes is stripped. Something I overlooked when I changed out the stock UCAs. This could have allowed the bolt to loosen overtime. We did find one of the broken bolts on the trail and it looks like there was some play in there by the way the bolt is worn. I'll take a pic of it later. I picked up some 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts and they are actually too small. I'll have to go bigger after I drill out the stuck bolt and retap the holes. By the markings on the bolt that was in there, it was a 1/2" grade 8 bolt. I do not believe that is stock. The bolt on the other side are smaller. Something must have happened when the previous owner had it. It's now my belief that if the threading was good all the way through and the bolts were good and snug, this probably would not have happened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted August 18, 2010 Share Posted August 18, 2010 I ordered a set of the 12.9 bolts from bolt depot. I actually plan on lowering the front whenever my suspension components are done, so I can remove some shims and have a bit more flex. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yendor Posted August 19, 2010 Author Share Posted August 19, 2010 I finally got done drilling out the stuck bolt remains and retapping the holes for a 5/8 bolts. I had to enlarge the holes on the UCA spindle too. Also replaced the shock and tomorrow it goes to a local college to get the students to do the cv axles on both sides. You know, just when you think you have all the right tools, there will be something you don't have that you need really bad. I could not get any reduced shank drill bits and I had to buy a drill with a 1/2 inch chuck. It never ends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted August 19, 2010 Share Posted August 19, 2010 IIRC 10.8 has the same material properties as grade 8 and 8.8 has the same materials as grade 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 19, 2010 Share Posted August 19, 2010 You are correct Sir, almost identical other than it is 10.9. A minor detail... http://www.jgmes.com/library/table_fastener.htm B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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