Crankshaft Sprocket won't come off

[PFFlier]

Hi guys - Newbie here.

 

I'm putting a new timing belt kit in my VG30E and trying to do all the oil seals, water pump, etc while i'm in there but I can't get the crankshaft sprocket off. I put WD40 on, tapped on it while pulling but no luck. I was afraid to pry in the back because I didn't want to ding up the timing belt plate behind the sprocket that keeps the belt in line. Do I need to torch it? Also, do most people install the water pump with just the gasket or do they use the red silicone?

 

Thanks

[PFFlier]

I tried prying on back while tapping, even tried heating it with a torch........no go.

Help

[Cuong Nguyen]

I used both the gasket and silicone last time I did mine again. No problems. The key is making sure you let the silicone cure.

 

You try tapping it back and forth? Forwards and backwards? I really never had a problem removing mine... I guess I've just been lucky. Why are you wanting to remove it anyways?

[MY1PATH]

You try tapping it back and forth? Forwards and backwards? I really never had a problem removing mine... I guess I've just been lucky. Why are you wanting to remove it anyways?

 

His Fwd Main is prolly leaking.

 

PS

you double posted, made me think my reply got deleted. pls pick one category.

Garage is best for this one since it applies to all VG's

Edited June 23, 2010 by MY1PATH

[PFFlier]

I used both the gasket and silicone last time I did mine again. No problems. The key is making sure you let the silicone cure.

 

You try tapping it back and forth? Forwards and backwards? I really never had a problem removing mine... I guess I've just been lucky. Why are you wanting to remove it anyways?

 

I got it out about 1/16" but I think I've ruined the sprocket. Still can't get it off. It's take me 3 hours to get 1/16 but I guess I'll try hitting it back.

 

As for the double post, I didn't realize I wasnt in garage when I posted the first one.......waited for hours w/no replies. Sorry about that. That's what happens when you're new.

OK! I finally got it out, but its buggered up so I need a new one if anyone has one laying around let me know. I Need the Crankshaft sprocket and the Timing belt plate (the one behind the sprocket).

Edited June 23, 2010 by PFFlier

[RedPath88]

I recommend that you post a request for the parts that you need in the "Classifieds>Parts Wanted" section. You might have better luck in there.

 

Also, check the Parts for Sale section for vehicles being parted out or other members selling extra parts that they have.

[JamesRich]

You were supposed to use a puller to remove that. You can get a free loaner from most auto part houses.

James

[Precise1]

You were supposed to use a puller to remove that. You can get a free loaner from most auto part houses.

James

Yep. I bought a puller from harbor freight for $16 or something, just had to get the right bolts. An important rule in mechanics: do not force it, do not rush. If it doesn't want to come off, there is probably a reason so stop and think, research and ask. If you get impatient you will probably do more harm than good. I've learned these personally...

 

B

[PFFlier]

Yep. I bought a puller from harbor freight for $16 or something, just had to get the right bolts. An important rule in mechanics: do not force it, do not rush. If it doesn't want to come off, there is probably a reason so stop and think, research and ask. If you get impatient you will probably do more harm than good. I've learned these personally...

 

B

 

OK........how do you use a puller to get off the crankshaft sprocket???? There are no bolt holes. There is at most a 1/16" space at the back. I had to get it out almost 1/4" before I could get my puller that has the "L" shaped pivoting arms that hook behind and the threaded bolt in the center that pushes against the crank bolt. By the time I got it out 1/4" it was messed up. I was tapping lightly on it, but it still flattened out slightly the teeth. I wasn't impatient, it took me about 6 hours to get it off. There may be a way to get it off w/no damage, that is why I posted, but I couldn't figure it out.

[87pathy]

Grind down the puller so it fits.

 

this is what i've done.

[Precise1]

Exactly. No there isn't a lot of room, but the fingers don't have to be too strong eo=ither because it shouldn't take that much force, more even pulling. Penetrating oil will help a lot also, if only for the lubricity.

 

Also, when tapping use a dead blow, brass hammer or even a length of brass or aluminum. Anything softer than the steel and it shouldn't hurt anything.

 

Wasn't crapping on you, Bud, just trying to help...

 

B

 

PS The bolts were for the HB, not the sprocket. :coffee!:

[PFFlier]

Thanks for all the help. It'l be a few days until the new sprocket gets here and I can put things back together. I'll let you know how that goes later.

[Precise1]

NP.

 

Also, inspect the keyway on the crank and the key it's self. A couple of people have had keyway or key failures which are a bad thing, as you can imagine...

 

B

[PFFlier]

NP.

 

Also, inspect the keyway on the crank and the key it's self. A couple of people have had keyway or key failures which are a bad thing, as you can imagine...

 

B

Yeah, the key and keyway looked good, but there a little rust on the shaft and inside the sprocket so I cleaned up the shaft with some emery cloth and the sprocket will be new so it should go on better with some assemmbly grease.

I'm still wondering if most guys use the water pump gasket only, or if they use RTV also. IF RTV, which one.....red or blue. I guess the same question would go for the water thermostat installation.

Thanks

[PFFlier]

His Fwd Main is prolly leaking.

I am a firm beilever in Murphy's law, so I figure if I don't replace the seals when rerplacing the timing belt, thats a sure bet that the seal will go out shortly after. That's the same reason I'm replacing the water pump. I just inherited this rig from my dad when he died and I'm not sure what all has been done, but I know the TB wasn't done, so that's how I got to this point.

[Precise1]

Yes, I used a light film of RTV, Permatex grey I believe but any of it will work for the waterpump IIRC. Read the tube, I think the blue specifies that it is antifreeze resistant.

Same with the thermostat. Make sure to put the bleed hole up...

 

I just did the timing belt last year and replaced everything also as I don't want to go into it again for the full 100k mile interval. I changed the crank seal, cam seals thermostat, bypass hose, timing belt, tensioner, spring, waterpump, both radiator hoses, coolant and all fan belts. I kept all spares of course...

 

The problem with not replacing the bypass hose or waterpump is that if it leaks on the timing belt (almost impossible to remove without spilling a lot) the belt needs replacing as the antifreeze degrades the belt...

 

B

[RedPath88]

NP.

 

Also, inspect the keyway on the crank and the key it's self. A couple of people have had keyway or key failures which are a bad thing, as you can imagine...

 

B

*raises hand*

 

I'm one of them... both keyway rounded out at the same time, destroyed 2 pullers just getting the pulley off! Rendered the crank useless and ended up replacing a strong running engine

[ahardb0dy]

On my 87 hardbody with the VG30I the key way spun twice, In 87 the crankshaft had one keyway that both the harmonic balancer and timing gear both shared, models after 87 they changed it to 2 keyways one for each part.

[GrimGreg]

I am a firm beilever in Murphy's law, so I figure if I don't replace the seals when rerplacing the timing belt, thats a sure bet that the seal will go out shortly after. That's the same reason I'm replacing the water pump. I just inherited this rig from my dad when he died and I'm not sure what all has been done, but I know the TB wasn't done, so that's how I got to this point.

The general rule, and what most of us with the VGs have learned, is if you have to do the timing belt, replace everything that you would have to pull the timing belt to service while you are at it.