DoctorBill Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 Want to ask a couple of questions about my '95 V6-XE 4x4 Automatic. First - I have a sputtering Open Door light on the Dashboard. How the Heck can I find out which door switch is going south ? Second - I understand that one is not supposed to press the gas pedal to help start these creatures up. But mine will start and then die after 5 seconds. Today I pressed the gas pedal to keep it going and it died anyway. After that the bugger flooded and I almost didn't get to work on time... I cranked it over for a minute or two before it finally caught ! How can I start this creature so it keeps running ? How do you start it if it floods ? Otherwise - running fine after my Timing Belt Change and adding a automatic transmission Cooler this summer (on the forum with photos). I'm going to add a cheap Harbor Freight Tachometer since mine is INSANE. DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 (edited) Here is what I do when it is very cold outside: Keep that starter spinning until the engine revs to 1k rpm then you can let go and it will start fine. If you have a serious flooding problem, it might be the coolant temp sensor. Edited February 4, 2010 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 I know what you mean tungsten, how it kinda stumbles initially? I think you can hear it in my cold start video. It is -15 Celsius in this video... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v9dVa0WSUTo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 Yeah it stumbles and fumbles and then its good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 I know what you mean tungsten, how it kinda stumbles initially? I think you can hear it in my cold start video. It is -15 Celsius in this video... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v9dVa0WSUTo your cold startup sounds like my regular startup :S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 That is not stumbling at all. Both mine will fire, run as 1200 RPM+ for 10 seconds, splutter at 800 rpm for 5 seconds then pick back up and run fine. Why?? I do not know... Want to ask a couple of questions about my '95 V6-XE 4x4 Automatic. First - I have a sputtering Open Door light on the Dashboard. How the Heck can I find out which door switch is going south ? Second - I understand that one is not supposed to press the gas pedal to help start these creatures up. But mine will start and then die after 5 seconds. Today I pressed the gas pedal to keep it going and it died anyway. After that the bugger flooded and I almost didn't get to work on time... I cranked it over for a minute or two before it finally caught ! How can I start this creature so it keeps running ? How do you start it if it floods ? Otherwise - running fine after my Timing Belt Change and adding a automatic transmission Cooler this summer (on the forum with photos). I'm going to add a cheap Harbor Freight Tachometer since mine is INSANE. DoctorBill It's probably the back hatch, but don't take that as gospel. Each door has a plunger switch. Have someone hold each one in, one at a time and you will have your answer within 2 minutes... As for the flooding/dying, I do not know other than stepping on the pedal should not be required. Once it dies, let it sit 15 seconds and try again without touching the gas pedal. Fuel filter perhaps?? Have you checked the ECU codes?? (free and easy.... ) B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 do the 90+ pathys "prime" the injectors if you pause @ run for a few seconds before turing to start? I do that on my tbi when its below 30 but that may just be an archaic thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 i dont know what to tel you besides maybe seaform your car for the bad start ups and stumble. Other than that the rest of what the others were saying should help. You could see if your Mass air flow sensor is dirty also. For the doors you can close them all and open then one at a time and push the plunger in and out until u find one that doesnt work very well. but it could the rear hatch. When its cold my door plungers dont work so well either. I do have 4 of them off of a truck in the junk yard if u decied you need one or 2 let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 They should be primed all the time, if the fuel system is maintaining pressure. That said, a small leak at the sending unit, or anywhere along the lines, can cause it to lose it's prime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted February 4, 2010 Author Share Posted February 4, 2010 (edited) The Pathfinder is doing it again.... I'm finding, by experimenting around, that pressing the gas pedal to the floor as it cranks gets it going quickly ! DoctorBill Edited in 2-22-2010 Latest method that works well: Press gas pedal to floor and release (like older Carb cars used to have to do) Turn key to on (but not to crank the engine) Let set for 20 seconds (fuel pump runs & builds up line pressure) Crank the engine - starts right away. Flip gas pedal lightly if it acts like going to die. Let run and warm up. This seems to work. Edited February 23, 2010 by DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slade420 Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 my D21 hardbody struggles a bit on start up, usually because the fuel lines need to build up pressure. its caused by the line connecting the 2 fuel rails, the clamps are lose or in the wrong spot.the clamps in the wrong spot is what caused my pathy gas take to leak when i turned the key to "on" . it pissed gas out from the top of the tank. luckily i was a easy fix. ripped up the carpet and opened the access hatch. (best idea ever!) Thats why it takes longer to prime itself. After i've had it running, its no problem to start it, as the lines are pressurized. Luckily the fuel line on the fuel rails is not pissin' out gas. On start-up there is the smell of raw fuel tho. none of the lines are wet, and there is nothing dripping underneath. which now leads me to think its not the line at all. but an injector stuck partially open squirting fuel into the intake manifold. which would explain why giving it a shot of the throttle chokes it out, if i do have to give it some gas. its little and not often between, and not much at all, just little tap. you kinda have to get a "feel" for it depending on rpm and if it is sluggish or gonna flood (too much fuel) or if it needs more fuel. its like warming up a 2-stroke dirtbike, or a 2-stroke snowmobile. best way i can describe it. so does anyone think stuck injectors can cause this. another thing that leads me to believe i have a sticky valve(s) is when im driving, from idle to 1500-2000 its responds fine, then pressing the pedal another half inch - 1 inch it struggles, or its lagging bad. then another half an inch of the throttle and they open up huge and i get pushed back in my seat as the engine clmbs hard, setting off the tranny shift points... i forget what this option is called. if its the injectors can they be cleaned and reused? ive noticed they are quite expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R3DN1CK Posted February 5, 2010 Share Posted February 5, 2010 check to see if your rubber booties are on your door switches.. if they are messed up or missing you might have to adjust your door striker in to make sure the switch is fully depressed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted February 9, 2010 Author Share Posted February 9, 2010 Here is what I have tried to make my Pathy start better: Hold the gas pedal to the floor - starts up almost instantly, but races immediately. Flip the gas pedal as it is cranking - starts usually - then I have to flip the pedal to keep it running for 10 seconds. I bought a new fuel filter (FF) (FRAM - all they had - Damn !) and will install it when I have time and nice weather. For all the fuel this guzzler uses, it is putting one BUTT LOAD of fuel thru the filter, and given how I was told most gasoline is full of crap, it is probably getting plugged up. Bought the vehicle used last year with 165,000 on it - only God knows when the previous owner changed the FF. More to come.... DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 I think it does have to do with the fuel pump building up pressure. I know my fuel sender gasket has a slight leak in it so the truck stumbles on cold starts. I bought a new gasket from the dealer but its going to have to get warmer out first before I replace it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted February 9, 2010 Author Share Posted February 9, 2010 (edited) OK, so where is "...my fuel sender gasket...." ? I don't smell the gasoline odors anymore - since I tightened up the cross-rail hose clamps. 'By the time you read this, you probably already read it.' Also - "Wherever you go...there you are!" DoctorBill Edited February 9, 2010 by DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R3DN1CK Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 OK, so where is "...my fuel sender gasket...." ? I don't smell the gasoline odors anymore - since I tightened up the cross-rail hose clamps. 'By the time you read this, you probably already read it.' Also - "Wherever you go...there you are!" DoctorBill on top of the fuel tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoctorBill Posted February 10, 2010 Author Share Posted February 10, 2010 on top of the fuel tank. OH...OK..."Fuel Sender" means Fuel Level Sensor for the gas Gauge. I must be somewhat slow these days. I thought you meant something more sophisticated than the gas gauge sensor. DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R3DN1CK Posted February 10, 2010 Share Posted February 10, 2010 OH...OK..."Fuel Sender" means Fuel Level Sensor for the gas Gauge. I must be somewhat slow these days. I thought you meant something more sophisticated than the gas gauge sensor. DoctorBill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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