andreus009 Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 How squeaky are the polyurethane bushings? I need to replace the bushings on the tension/compression rod of the LCA. I'm debating between the Energy Suspension ones or the MOOG ones. The MOOG ones are advertised as a thermoplastic that doesn't squeak like polyurethane bushings. Any opinions on these two brands? I read in other threads there is a special grease to use with the polyurethane bushings for the squeaky issue. I assume this is applied at the metal to poly interface. Do you have to reapply it periodically? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoPathyGo Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Whichever's cheaper. Crank up the volume. Sorry, useless post but couldn't resist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Why I stick with stock rubber. My thought, it lasted this long and wasn't squeaky, should last just as long the second time around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 I replaced my compression rod bushings on my old truck with the Moog ones and they never squeaked once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 I replaced my compression rod bushings on my old truck with the Moog ones and they never squeaked once. X2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 I'm torn with GG's response and the fact that the poly are stiffer. I will probably use them for the compression rid bushing as it is a high wear item but for others like sway bar, I'd seriously consider stock.oem replacements. I read in other threads there is a special grease to use with the polyurethane bushings for the squeaky issue. I assume this is applied at the metal to poly interface. Do you have to reapply it periodically? Yes, waterproof trailer bearing grease seems to work wonders and zerk fittings are used when ever possible for easy application. A member did a study but has since disappeared. Earth1 I think?? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 I'd argue that most bushings on your truck would be higher wear items than the tension rod bushings. Sway bar links, and the like typically wear out every few years. Tension rod bushings (at least in my case) lasted 14 years. I went with stock items. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted September 15, 2009 Author Share Posted September 15, 2009 I'd argue that most bushings on your truck would be higher wear items than the tension rod bushings. Sway bar links, and the like typically wear out every few years. Tension rod bushings (at least in my case) lasted 14 years. I went with stock items. I would tend to agree considering that the sway bar bushings look a lot worse than the tension rod bushings. However, the tension rod performs a more critical function. I decided to go with Moog ones, and got front sway bar bushings at the same time. We will see how they last. I plan on pulling the tension rod apart tonight, to inspect for the classic erosion/wear damage. Looks like torsion bar removal is required to get a socket on the big nut that holds it to the frame? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Unless you use a wrench, yes. I simply cut mine off, as I had bought the parts to replace EVERYTHING. I wasn't pissing around with 14 year old bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Looks like torsion bar removal is required to get a socket on the big nut that holds it to the frame? I always just use an open end wrench on that one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Unless you use a wrench, yes. I simply cut mine off, as I had bought the parts to replace EVERYTHING. I wasn't pissing around with 14 year old bolts. Did you have the classic enlarged oval hole in yours? I always just use an open end wrench on that one. Yeah 15/16ths is what i used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Did you have the classic enlarged oval hole in yours?Yeah 15/16ths is what i used. I did.....I don't now. Love my new welder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 I'd argue that most bushings on your truck would be higher wear items than the tension rod bushings. Sway bar links, and the like typically wear out every few years. Tension rod bushings (at least in my case) lasted 14 years. I went with stock items. I was simply considering the number of people who have ovaled holes/rods 1/2 worn through. If the stiffer poly bushing can lessen that effect, I find it a major benefit. I wasn't pissing around with 14 year old bolts. What's wrong with 14 year old bolts, I have a whole truck of them and no issues. Oh, yeah, that's right. Forget it... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 What's wrong with 14 year old bolts, I have a whole truck of them and no issues. Oh, yeah, that's right. Forget it... B Who had to cut a hole in the cargo floor on their last Pathfinder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Because the nut broke free due to the impact gun I used and galling, not rust... The other one came out nicely with a 1/2 drive rachet. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted September 15, 2009 Author Share Posted September 15, 2009 Because the nut broke free due to the impact gun I used and galling, not rust... The other one came out nicely with a 1/2 drive rachet. B You could put an eye out like that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 What's wrong with 14 year old bolts, I have a whole truck of them and no issues. Oh, yeah, that's right. Forget it... B Yeah yeah yeah... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 I did.....I don't now. Love my new welder. Carri welds? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted September 16, 2009 Author Share Posted September 16, 2009 Compression rods disassembled.....and the verdict is I am one of the lucky ones. The compression rods are in good shape with no signs of wear at all. Little rust on one but that is it. The holes are still pretty much round. Can see a little wear in the holes but not worth trying to correct it. The sleeves on the other hand are trashed. Rusty, pitted and worn over half way through. It was a good time to do this repair. Much longer and I would have been replacing the rods too. Glad I read up this topic while I was in the process of servicing the truck. Thanks to all for who contribute their knowledge. Did I mention lately this Forum is great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 Carri welds? Not yet! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted September 16, 2009 Share Posted September 16, 2009 Compression rods disassembled.....and the verdict is I am one of the lucky ones. The compression rods are in good shape with no signs of wear at all. Little rust on one but that is it. The holes are still pretty much round. Can see a little wear in the holes but not worth trying to correct it. The sleeves on the other hand are trashed. Rusty, pitted and worn over half way through. It was a good time to do this repair. Much longer and I would have been replacing the rods too. Glad I read up this topic while I was in the process of servicing the truck. Thanks to all for who contribute their knowledge. Did I mention lately this Forum is great! FYI, you "should" replace the nut on the bushing end when you reassemble things, it's a "nyloc" style with the built in nylon thread lock in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted September 16, 2009 Author Share Posted September 16, 2009 FYI, you "should" replace the nut on the bushing end when you reassemble things, it's a "nyloc" style with the built in nylon thread lock in it. Hmm, didn't look like a 'nyloc' type, but maybe it was one of those internal ones that you can't see at the end . I was going to use locktite, since according to the FSM it should be replaced so I assumed it had some locking feature that wouldn't work as well after being disassembled. What do you think? I was planning on putting this all back together this weekend, and don't think I can get a replacement nut by then if I have to order it. I don't think Lowe's or Home Depot have this big a nut in Metric. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 Some loc tite ought to work just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 I did.....I don't now. Love my new welder. Hey would you mind helping me out the next time I'm down in the GTA? Would really appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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