beastpath Posted September 14, 2009 Author Share Posted September 14, 2009 Here's some pictures. Haven't had the time I needed to do more, damn work keeps giving me night shifts, ruins days off because I want to sleep!!! But I did get the t-bar crossmember out today and unhooked some minor stuff. All my parts are not here anyways, and I still need to get the flywheel resurfaced sometime this week. Console removed Master cylinder and dampner See how much the clutch pedal was bent. Straight pedals! I'm amused how all three have different styles of rubber. Where the pedals mount Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted September 19, 2009 Author Share Posted September 19, 2009 things haven't been going quite as fast as I would like....when do they ever? lol Got the flywheel resurfaced for a mean $30 at a shop in mesa. While I was there stopped at the JY and picked up a few pieces that I was missing. So, I have everything now except a shift knob! haha Was supposed to have dropped the auto tranny by today, but I didnt have much time to work on the truck yesterday, and last nights overnight shift really wore me out. Slept till about 2pm, lol, and then couldnt be arsed to rush outside and get started. Had not so much fun trying to get the bolts off the header crossover pipe. One snapped in half. Should I use assembly grease when replacing the tranny seals? do I just press them in? (seals always make me nervous) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 If the different pedal pads bother you just get a set of those aftermarket ones that come loose all the time or cut up some diamond plate or something? BTW did you find a cap for your clutch master yet? Depending on which style it is I may have one(I know of 2 different ones at least- 1 threaded and one 1/4ish turn style) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 Should I use assembly grease when replacing the tranny seals? do I just press them in? (seals always make me nervous) I never have used assembly lube but that is probably more out of ignorance, most mechanics do. What I will do is go through great pains to clean the seal surfaces and lightly coat the seal with the appropriate fluid before installing. Seems to work for me, but maybe I'm lucky?? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted September 20, 2009 Author Share Posted September 20, 2009 If the different pedal pads bother you just get a set of those aftermarket ones that come loose all the time or cut up some diamond plate or something? BTW did you find a cap for your clutch master yet? Depending on which style it is I may have one(I know of 2 different ones at least- 1 threaded and one 1/4ish turn style) nah, the pads dont bother me, i just thought it was amusing. I probably will get some cheap aftermarket ones at some point though. I got 2 clutch cylinder caps from the junkyard. The problem is that neither fit the cylinder. So I went back to the Junkyard and found a cylinder with a cap on it, I only took the white fluid holding part and was planning on just switching it out. The thing is though, is that it is shorter than the one I have on there already. I dont want to loose fluid capacity so I'll check on the style of what I have and get back to you. I think the turn-style one will work. I never have used assembly lube but that is probably more out of ignorance, most mechanics do. What I will do is go through great pains to clean the seal surfaces and lightly coat the seal with the appropriate fluid before installing. Seems to work for me, but maybe I'm lucky?? B cool, thanks. I might buy some assembly lube JIC, but will make sure to clean the surfaces extremely well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammyb33 Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 i just use the fluid it is supposed to be sealing in/out. always slides right in with that.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StatutoryApe Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 Straight pedals! I'm amused how all three have different styles of rubber. they made it like that so you know which pedal you're pushing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 they made it like that so you know which pedal you're pushing You don't need the one in the middle, thats what bumpers are for... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted September 20, 2009 Author Share Posted September 20, 2009 Is there a trick to getting the drive shaft bolts off? They are really on there good and tight. Funny thing is they look perfectly clean, no rust or dirt. Just can't get them off. lol. Was quite successful this morning. The starter comes out so easily with those AT cooler lines out of the way! I'll be selling the aftermarket cooler when the time comes. Amazing how much more crap goes with the AT than with the MT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KovemaN Posted September 21, 2009 Share Posted September 21, 2009 Is there a trick to getting the drive shaft bolts off? PB Blaster and long wrenches. Sometimes those lock washers dig into the nuts much more than you would expect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted September 21, 2009 Author Share Posted September 21, 2009 couple more questions on wiring: what is the Park Neutral Switch relay for, and why do I need to jumper it? what does the Neutral Position Switch do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted September 21, 2009 Share Posted September 21, 2009 if u don't jumper it (or connect it to the clutch interlock) the truck will not crank...its the "switch" that lets the starter relay get power so you can't start an AT in gear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted October 2, 2009 Author Share Posted October 2, 2009 FINALLY have everything off. One of the flexplate bolts rounded and I had to buy a specialty tool to get it off. So, now everything I get done is really and truly a step forward. I'm a little confused about the pilot adapter/bushing. The pilot adapter is supposed to go inbetween the flexplate and the crankshaft right? because I don't think I had one. What I did have was a bushing IN the crankshaft hole that looks just like the pilot bushing I had in my clutch kit. Here is the end result. That is what I should be mounting the flywheel to right? Or is the pilot adapter still on there? (had a slight oil leak from where the pan mates to the block. put some silicone in there to help stop it up, thats why its blue.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted October 2, 2009 Author Share Posted October 2, 2009 and how do I get the throw-out bearing off of the slide? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 I honestly can not remember or tell by the pictures. A thought did occur to me though, I bet the shrouding is different between AT and MT. Did you look at that or pick it up?? I'm a little confused about the pilot adapter/bushing. Pilot bushing is small and in the center hole. about 13mmID and 20ID?? They are different between AT and MT so you will have to remove and install. Slide hammer or the fill with grease and drive a tight piston in... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted October 2, 2009 Author Share Posted October 2, 2009 I found a pic with the AT adapter. Idk why I didnt have one at all. compared to the MT (pilot bushing is in there) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KovemaN Posted October 2, 2009 Share Posted October 2, 2009 Aren't you going to replace your rear main seal? If there ever was a time this is it and yours is already leaking. You need to press the bearing off of the sleeve. I think I just rested the outside of the release bearing on the jaws of my vise and used a socket to drive the sleeve out. I would suggest wood blocks, but you don't have those either Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted October 3, 2009 Author Share Posted October 3, 2009 Alright! lots done today, and almost everything was successful!! almost. Have to replace a couple of bolts as I must have left them at the JY. The ones from the auto are 25mm, and I need 30mm. Only a small problem. The tranny is bolted up except for the above 2 bolts. Still have to torque them down correctly, but it went pretty smoothly. The only problem is that its at an angle now and wont let me bolt the transmission crossmember to the frame. It shifted towards the passenger side. Its nice and flush against the engine, and nothing is in the way. Any reason it should do this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted October 5, 2009 Author Share Posted October 5, 2009 figured out the mounting issue thanks to sammyb33. I guess the trans x-member mount points are different on MTs and ATs. The MT x-member wouldn't fit. So I modified the AT x-member (ie, cut some holes) and it worked like a charm. Trans case went on today. So only have the driveshafts to reconnect, the shifters, y-pipe, t-bar xmember and t-bars, clutch slave cylinder, shift boots, and wiring to do....only. Oh yeah, and then I have to do that write up.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted October 7, 2009 Author Share Posted October 7, 2009 almost done. pretty much just the wiring left. TWO shifters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted October 8, 2009 Author Share Posted October 8, 2009 ok....stupid question here. I know the fill bolt is at the rear of the t-case, an how to undo it etc. How do I get the liquid in there though. Should I use some sort of pump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 A pump is best, but I have used a squeezable plastic bottle with a bit of a nozzle on it and kept refilling it when it was 1/2 way empty. A bit of a pain and I recall my hand being cramped by the time I was done, but it worked... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted October 9, 2009 Author Share Posted October 9, 2009 Well....almost done, but ran into some snags. As usual. One of my t-bar bolts is completely stripped. So i have to order another....may as well order 2. And I found a coolant leak. Guess where? The infamous upper bypass hose. Coolant has been dripping out of it the whole time its been on jack stands. So there is another project for me. At least I know why I was overheating now.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammyb33 Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 oh come on that bypass isnt that horrible to get 2!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted October 9, 2009 Author Share Posted October 9, 2009 it means I have to take the intake manifold off doesnt it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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