GrimGreg Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 So as I mentioned in Poho, I had my 88 towed home after it died a mile up the road. I had driven to the gas station and filled up, then started it back up and drove about 50 feet out of the gas station and it died, coasted across the street to another gas station and tried to restart it, it fired up and then died again about 2 seconds later, then nothing. After checking various other things I pulled the coil wire off and put it near a ground to see if I had a spark when I turned the key, nothing. So, I got the tow home. Next day I had my old coil (case cracked, but still worked) that I wrapped in 10 layers of electrical tape and plugged it in and still no spark. Today I went to try and check my codes and no light from the LEDs on the ECU. So, is there a power lead to the ECU that is seperate from the main feed? I get all my dash lights, and the fuel pump spins up. I checked my fuses and nothing read specific for the ECU, though none appear to be blown either. Originally I was thinking my igniter was probably bad, but with no ECU lights, I'm wondering if it isn't a bigger issue. Fusable links are all intact, so it isn't that. I doubt it is the ECU it's self gone bad, just because of how it died. I'm kinda stumped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 Doesn't sound like ECU is blown. It could definitely be a power problem to it, or the ground on it. It also sounds like (aside from your troubleshooting) when my sending unit failed on my truck. Died suddenly, started back up with all lights, but wouldn't run, due to lack of fuel pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted August 25, 2009 Author Share Posted August 25, 2009 I hear the pump kick on when I turn the key and I smell gas in the intake after cranking it. The first thing I checked was the pump fuse (been there). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 Cool. Check the ground for the ECU. Maybe it's popped itself loose? Are your dash lights turning on, and off as per normal when you put the key in the on position? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted August 25, 2009 Author Share Posted August 25, 2009 Yep, the dash lights all come on. ECU ground is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 hot wire your coil to eliminate the posibility of the coil being bad. run a hot wire directly to the power side of your coil from teh battery, try to start, if it starts, check wires. if no start, coil. I know you said you changed it, but a cracked case could be arcing still. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indigent Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 I would bet a large sum that it is the power wires at the Positive terminal of your battery. Thoroughly check each wire that connects to the terminal. It is amazing how many spider off of there. The EXACT same thing happened to me. I was just driving, and it quit. I found those wires were corroded. Once I re-terminated them it ran just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 that and check the + wire to the starter to make sure its not worn through and grounding out sucking all life out of the truck...I had that and it arced to the frame and melted my battery...that was some scary @!*%...esp since I ahd just driven 250 miles and still had 100 miles to go with snow/ice on the roads and it was getting dark...oh and a bitchy GF who was tired of being cold... Let me know what ECU it is...I have one out of my 87 I could sale for cheap but I don't really think its the ECU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted August 26, 2009 Author Share Posted August 26, 2009 I would bet a large sum that it is the power wires at the Positive terminal of your battery. Thoroughly check each wire that connects to the terminal. It is amazing how many spider off of there. The EXACT same thing happened to me. I was just driving, and it quit. I found those wires were corroded. Once I re-terminated them it ran just fine. Yeah, after looking at the electrical diagrams it would appear that all the power goes from the fusable link to the ECU. So I'm begining to suspect that one or more of them, though looking intact, might be corroded or otherwise dead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carwilef7 Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 Dunno if this would apply in any way to an '88, but my '97 was doing the same sort of thing until I replaced the Mass Air Flow sensor and a cracked rubber intake boot. Hope that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 Yeah, after looking at the electrical diagrams it would appear that all the power goes from the fusable link to the ECU. So I'm begining to suspect that one or more of them, though looking intact, might be corroded or otherwise dead. It could very well be. Mine looked fine, but once I sliced down the insulation to see the wire beneath, it was all corroded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 my fusable link was obvious when it died. Of course, my battery had leaked all over the connector and dissolved it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Channel595 Posted August 29, 2009 Share Posted August 29, 2009 some times the fuse link will get corroded from the inside and the insulation on the outside is normal looking, try twisting or feeling through it to see if there i still wire in it. i would check the crank sensor signal i think its in the distributor... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted September 11, 2009 Author Share Posted September 11, 2009 I think I found the problem, I put my tester on the connections at the back of the ignition switch and there is power from the battery there, but when there should be power comming out to the ECU there is no voltage. Going to run the the yard and see if I can get a switch to swap in and hopefully fix it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted September 11, 2009 Author Share Posted September 11, 2009 Nope, didn't fix it. Thinking maybe crank angle sensor now...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 11, 2009 Share Posted September 11, 2009 Is that the one in the distributor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted September 11, 2009 Author Share Posted September 11, 2009 Is that the one in the distributor? Yeah, the optical pickup in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 11, 2009 Share Posted September 11, 2009 Is the distributor the same on the VG30I as the VG30E? If so, I may have one for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted September 14, 2009 Author Share Posted September 14, 2009 Waitting t hear from my Step-Dad, he's a mechanic at a Nissan dealer (he works on the non-Nissans that come in), one of his tech buddies there has a bunch of spare parts, and is well versed in the VGs. My Step-Dad will probably come down here this comming weekend to help me give it a once over and find the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mookie Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Nope, didn't fix it. Thinking maybe crank angle sensor now...? That's what happened to mine also. Died, was able to start for 1 second and then nothing. But I was able to grab the c.a. sensor code. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted September 15, 2009 Author Share Posted September 15, 2009 That's what happened to mine also. Died, was able to start for 1 second and then nothing. But I was able to grab the c.a. sensor code. Why I'm scared, though, I still can't even get the LEDs to flicker on my ECU..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted September 25, 2009 Author Share Posted September 25, 2009 After further tinkering (and ditching the el cheapo Volt meter for a good one) I found that 1 of the 4 wires on the fusable link has only 1v coming through it, the other three test fine. It so happens to be the wire that goes to the main relay, then on to the ECU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indigent Posted September 26, 2009 Share Posted September 26, 2009 I'm glad you found out what was wrong! I hate those kinds of problems that just refuse to be found. Good multimeters definitely help though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 27, 2009 Share Posted September 27, 2009 Ditto the last 2 statements. I used a Sears multimeter to trouble shoot a clothes drier last year. I had used it for years before, but the old (crappy?) unit did not function well and caused me to waste a lot of time doing research on parts that tested true the second time and bad the third. Damn near threw it in the trash, but will keep it for voltage and such and buy a Fluke... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted September 27, 2009 Author Share Posted September 27, 2009 Turns out the fuse wire had broke in half inside the insulation, spliced it and it started righ up. Going to order a new link on Monday, but for now I can at least move the truck again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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