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carwilef7

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Everything posted by carwilef7

  1. I'd like to see how you did that, too. Mine doesn't even have the stock rack, just the brackets the thing is supposed to mount to.
  2. Got them today. First impression is that they are extremely quiet for an AT. Handling on dry pavement is pretty good too. I think they look awesome! (I'll post a pic as soon as I figure out how.)
  3. I'm volunteering to be the guinea pig. Getting Cooper AT3's on Tuesday. I'll post my opinions here after I get a few miles on 'em.
  4. I'd much rather have AT3's. I don't buy used tires. Thanks for the offer, though.
  5. The Cooper rebate offer ends Nov. 7 As for BFG's, it's just that particular tire (Rugged Terrain T/A) that strikes me as gimmicky. Nothing wrong with their A/T KO or M/T.
  6. At least you had a workout. Took months for me to figure out that the coolant temp sensor was behind an occasional flooding issue. So what do I do? Buy the sensor and torque it in to the point that it breaks in half because I'm trying to make the harness line up - DOH! $30 dollar part cost $60 because of my own stupidity.
  7. First off, sorry to have been away - new computer, took a while to get settled in, etc., etc... Secondly, I'm looking at the new Cooper Discoverer AT3 in a stock size (P235/75/15). Anybody running these or in larger sizes? Care to bitch or praise? Any thoughts on the BFG Rugged Terrains? The BFG's look gimmicky, to me. Thirdly - I need ONE plastic hub center cap for the front, right - '97 R50 XE with chrome 15" wheels - it's the one with the hole in it for the bearing cap to stick out of. Anybody know the freakin' part # ??? Thanks! I love this forum.
  8. *sigh* not meaning to hijack the thread... stuff like this makes me miss the bad old days when I had a '75 chevy 4x4 with a 350 - there just wasn't that much that could be wrong, and you could sit on the fender and fix most of it. Of course, it was toast after 80K, and my Pathy just tonight tripped 150K and the vacuum gauge stays rock steady at 20 in/HG!
  9. AND it never sets a code either, even tho it's supposed to! Damn, Kingman... sorry you had such bad luck.
  10. Definitely take some time to read that Coolant Temp Sensor under a variety of conditions - preferably with a meter that will go into Megohms. Mine was causing an intermittent flooding condition - it read okay cold or after a half hour, but after the truck had been off for 5-10 minutes, it would SOMETIMES go to 12 megs! Only figured out the problem when it started doing it consistently, and it drove me crazy for a couple months. The computer was assuming that the temp was like absolute zero and throwing a buttload of fuel at it. Mine is a '97, but I would assume, since the temp/resistance range that Terrano 1992 quotes are the same as for mine, that it's possible yours could do the same sort of thing. $30 part at autozone or advance.
  11. I ban my1path for using "4" instead of the word "for".
  12. Still dunno how big it is, but to me it looks like part of a throttle linkage or something - and quite possibly not yours. What looks like a washer might be the end of the ear. Maybe somebody removed it and just idly stuck it back together while figuring out how to fix it. Could also be from any ol' hoopty and just got kicked in there when you ran over it. I see strange stuff like this in the gutter all the time while I'm walking my dog - mostly wheel weights and random nuts and bolts, though. I dropped my old PCV valve while removing it and never found it - probably stuck in some grease or mud, then fell out later. Bet there's somebody else trying to figure out how it got in his motor mount.
  13. OK - Mine is slightly newer, but apparently the cam sensor is integral to the construction of the distributor and not available separately. That said, you might be able to score a distributor cheap from a junkyard and try to extract the sensor, but it probably would make more sense just to replace the bad distributor with the junkyard one. Less work, since you'd have to pull the old one anyway.
  14. Those things look like crap, IMO. And x3 on the ground clearance issues.
  15. It would help if we knew the exact mileage from fill-up to fill-up. I regularly put in 9 or 10 gallons when it shows half a tank, but I've usually gone 140-150 miles or more in city driving. That said, (and mine is a 97) the first week I had it, it got like 11 mpg because I was trying to figure out why it started running like crap and stalling after two days - turned out to be a cracked intake boot and a bad MAF sensor - no codes or CEL either, at first. I spent more time than I thought letting it idle while I was scratching my head. Later on, I found a bad coolant temp sensor - pretty much by serendipitous means - and it never set a code for THAT either. Fuel gauge is weird - 35 miles to get to the F, then 3/4 at 75, 100 miles puts me at about 5/8. I've filled up at E and only put in 16 gallons. All of this working out at about 15 mpg, give or take. 21 gallon tank.
  16. It's not so odd when you consider the money Nissan might make if this part fails just past warranty - what with removing the intake and all that it entails. Planned obsolescence. Here's what I did, but for a different reason - I kept getting a CEL light for R catalyst deficiency. Doesn't matter for safety inspection where I live - but, like you, I hate looking at the light, and I'll be damned if I'm gonna pay 500 or more bucks to replace a cat just to turn off the light. Do this - trace out your CEL circuit - if it's like mine, it's on an orange wire (one of several orange ones) going into the ECM near the middle of the plug. I snipped the wire and spliced in a SPST switch so I can flip it on if the truck starts acting weird, but I usually leave it off so I don't have to put up w/ the CEL. Be advised though - if you have to have your OBDII working for inspection, you will fail - also, you might be fined for tampering - so be sure you can get away with it before doing it.
  17. grim I've been looking for another bass just for a backup, or maybe to take over the Jazz's duties so as to preserve it, but I can't find anything that measures up. It would have to play as sweet as this one, at least. I got the neck by accident after somebody ordered it and never picked it up - was one of the last american made necks 25 years ago. As for my mods - I built a maple body, then added a badass bridge and have used a variety of pickups. At one point I had a switch that let let me go from parallel to series w/ the two Jazz-style pickups - which made it sound more like a P-bass. I took it out when i discovered i rarely used it. Current pickups came out of an ESP bass (I think). dunno how many watts your Crate is, or what style you play, but I have to do everything from blues to metal and I used to have an Ampeg SVT III pro that was just barely adequate. This Genz-Benz 600 just blows its doors with only one 410 cab. Might be due to the G-B cabinet - it's a monster! Would love to plug an SVT into it to hear the difference. I built some fretless basses back in the 80's, but since I play more precise stuff now, i haven't bothered with one since then. It does look cool to play one tho.
  18. I've been playing bass for over 30 years, if that counts. Fender Jazz neck on a home-made body with all kinds of oddball parts, and a Genz-Benz 600 head/ 410XB2 cabinet that, when it's turned up past 5, breaks things in the house.
  19. Not sure about '98s, but for 97 it's supposedly a non-issue. My KS is apparently dead, and the ECM stores a code for it, but it doesn't turn on the CEL. FSM says it normally has no bearing on settings unless you're revved way too high anyway. :02:
  20. Haven't done this repair on my Pathfinder yet, but have on other vehicles. I notice a few items missing: Band-aids, duct-tape (if you need bigger band-aids), and (if you happen to be religious) an icon of whatever Saint is in charge of busted knuckles...St. Knuckle-less? Otherwise, you seem good to go.
  21. I kept getting a code 0702 (same as P0420) for a low right catalyst efficiency. This is probably a result of running with a weird fuel mix due to the previous owner's inattention to the bad MAF and a split TB boot, plus a bad coolant temp sensor that was causing a hot-start flooding condition (but the ECM never set a code for THAT). Anyway, I ran the hell out of the truck with the O/D off so it would make the cat hot and burn off the accumulated goo,and it works for a few weeks, but I'm afraid it's no use. Keeps coming back. So I decided to bypass the CEL light. -------------------- WARNING: If you live in an area that uses OBD II readiness or codes as part of your emissions/safety inspection, you will fail if you do this. My only goal was to not have to have the yellow light glaring in my eyes without spending $500 or more, and I don't have those hoops to jump through. Be sure to stay within your local regs, and no fault shall attach to me if you don't! -------------------- I traced out the wire from the CEL/MIL light, and discovered that it runs off a 10 amp fuse along with a bunch of other things in the dash cluster. Apparently, the ECM, when it detects a code, closes a relay inside itself to ground the bulb circuit. It's on an orange wire going to the ECM near the center of the ECM plug. You will have to trace it out with your manual, or use a v/ohm meter to be sure. I cut this wire when the CEL was on, so I could verify I had the right one, then spliced in a simple SPST switch and installed it in the plastic panel on the side of the console. Now, I can drive around without the yellow glare, but I can easily turn the light on and read out the codes whenever I feel like it ( screw turn method - which I can explain if asked), and if anything goes catastrophically wrong I can reach it to turn it on to see if it's flashing, so I can pull over and shut the engine off quickly (hopefully in time to avoid major damage).
  22. Not that mine is eaten up, or even in the right year range - but is RUST a color?
  23. Not meaning to dis you, nismothunder, but the reason Vizios don't get returned is because they die like two/three months past the end of the warranty period. Also, be wary of Walmart!!!! I looked at a 32" Vizio there that was the same price as one at Sears - only difference was the "w" in the model number - same price. Another look showed that the Wally-world Vizio lacked P-in-P, a whole input cluster, and some other vital stuff. FOR THE SAME PRICE as the Sears one???? what's up with that? shoulda been $100 cheaper. Walmart wants to shave points off unit price buy buying thousands, but that only works one way - guess which way - in their favor, since most people who buy from them assume they're automatically getting the best value at the lowest price. It's not true. The regular (non w) model still turned out to be crap too, though. I got lucky - it died a whole 8 months after the warranty was out. $600 gone. I now have a Toshiba 40RV525U - bought at a local furniture store that gives us regular dudes credit - for $899 plus another 100 for a total repair or replacement 4 yr warranty. Even if you get a recommendation from Ramon, I'd still invest in the warranty. The technology is evolving too fast to trust.
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