4wheeldrivefun Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 I have a 1994 pathfinder, v6 auto trany 4x4 etc etc I stoped at a gas station and put a few gallons of gas in and left. 40seconds to 2 min afterwords the oil light comes on ... I pulled over and shut it off checked the oil, It had plenty of oil, checked the connection at the engine for the sending unit... It was ok So i had the car towed home. Drained all the gas. put Good gas with aditive in from a differnt gas station. 93 octane. Did an oil change. and I still have my oil light on. Dose anyone have any idea's on this or have had this happen in there pathfinders, This is my daily driver and so i need to get it fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottzilla Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 I have a 1994 pathfinder, v6 auto trany 4x4 etc etc I stoped at a gas station and put a few gallons of gas in and left. 40seconds to 2 min afterwords the oil light comes on ... I pulled over and shut it off checked the oil, It had plenty of oil, checked the connection at the engine for the sending unit... It was ok So i had the car towed home. Drained all the gas. put Good gas with aditive in from a differnt gas station. 93 octane. Did an oil change. and I still have my oil light on. Dose anyone have any idea's on this or have had this happen in there pathfinders, This is my daily driver and so i need to get it fixed. Sounds like your oil pump died. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 I would be willing to bet your wire to the sender is either not connected, or the insulation is chaffed and grounding out somewhere. My 88 has issues with the light because the wire has a short, every bump I hit makes the light turn off . The first time I had an issue with it, the wire had fallen off the sender. I did about the same thing as you, saw the light and left it parked till I could figure it out. With the way our engines are, it is hard to have no oil pressure as long as you have oil in them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4wheeldrivefun Posted April 27, 2009 Author Share Posted April 27, 2009 where is the oil pump located how hard is it to get to? I will re-check the oil pressure connector tommarow but i checked it this afternoon and it seemed to be ok. Also as soon as it came on the car ran like crap and than died out, so unless that sensor messed with the ecu i think i would have lack of pressure somewhere somehow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 (edited) With the way our engines are, it is hard to have no oil pressure as long as you have oil in them. unless it sat a long time dry and the oil pump wasnt primed...I Know a guy who went through 3 engines b/c of dried out pumps and not priming them... which is what i guess you meant by oil in them...there was oil in the pans but hadn't been circulated in a while Edited April 27, 2009 by unccpathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 where is the oil pump located how hard is it to get to? Right at the bottom front of the engine behind the timing gear on the crankshft. Not a simple replacement. Also as soon as it came on the car ran like crap and than died out Hmm, you didn't mention any issues with how it ran before...did any other lights come on, like the brake light? Might be your alternator if that is the case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4wheeldrivefun Posted April 27, 2009 Author Share Posted April 27, 2009 (edited) The check engine light was on, I pulled the codes and it said Knock sensor and EGR.. I found a vaccume leak and fixed it and than the check engine turned off apx 2 days prior to this. So no codes or lights other than that. Hmm.. why did they have to put the oil pump in suck a hard place. If that sensor checks out, and i know it more than likely will, I'm thinking about jumping into it and replacing that oil pump. But before I just rip it out and spend money to replace it, Is there anything else you guys would recomend checking first. Edited April 27, 2009 by 4wheeldrivefun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 pull hte pass side valve cover...if it shoots oil everywhere you've got oilpressure...no the best thing would be a no @!*% pressure guage to see wh at its putting out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4wheeldrivefun Posted April 27, 2009 Author Share Posted April 27, 2009 Ok ill go buy a pressure gauge, were do i hook it up at? and whats the oil pressure spec spost to be @ pull hte pass side valve cover...if it shoots oil everywhere you've got oilpressure...no the best thing would be a no @!*% pressure guage to see wh at its putting out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 you can just hook into where the sending unit is. A simple fliud pressure guage and a couple of connectors from the hardware store and you should eb good to go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 Ok ill go buy a pressure gauge, were do i hook it up at? and whats the oil pressure spec spost to be @ If I recall correctly specs are 45-52 psi @ 2500 RPM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terrano1992 Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 If I recall correctly specs are 45-52 psi @ 2500 RPM. 1994 FSM says: more than 9 psi @ idle, 53-65 psi @ 3200 RPM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 1994 FSM says: more than 9 psi @ idle, 53-65 psi @ 3200 RPM. Yeah, thats what is was! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4wheeldrivefun Posted April 28, 2009 Author Share Posted April 28, 2009 (edited) So, I have made some progress today. I was unable to find a pressure gauge for sale localy stupid autopart stores. However a new pressure gauge switch was only 10.00 so i replaced that. Made no differance. crap.. I called my local nissan shop today and spoke with the owner, He Seemed to be very smart man, It seems these pathfinders have problems with oil pressure (high milage ones), he told me that it is very common problem and to pull the pan off to check for clogable and biuld up. Problem is that you CANT #$%&$ remove then pan unless you drop all kinds of 4x4 bs parts like front diff n just BS like that. OR... I can pull the engine out to do it. Seeing how i need to do a timing belt anyways (t-belt is only 20 bucks super cheapness) I opted to pull the engine out. Ive spent all day and with the help of 2 more friend managed to get it near ready to come out. However i am having problems geting at the trans to engine bolts and the exahust bolts off. Dose anyone have a method for removing them? Also when i get everything dissconnected. where is a good point to attach the chain to, to take the engine out?? And as a final note i wanted to add, I have done MANY MANY engine swaps and or full rebiulds, subaru's kia's honda's chevy's ford's mazda's you name it.. and by far this pathfinder engine is the worst. The engine to trans bolts and the exahust bolts are near unaccesable. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. thank you! Edited April 28, 2009 by 4wheeldrivefun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottzilla Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 However i am having problems geting at the trans to engine bolts and the exahust bolts off. Dose anyone have a method for removing them? I don't know of an easy way to get the exhaust bolts off. You just need the right combination of sockets, extensions, wrenches and pain. I think on one side I ended up disconnecting the pipe lower down and leaving the manifold on until I had the engine partway out. As far as the trans to engine bolts, I think it may be easier just to pull the whole thing out at once (that's what I ended up doing). And as a final note i wanted to add, I have done MANY MANY engine swaps and or full rebiulds, subaru's kia's honda's chevy's ford's mazda's you name it.. and by far this pathfinder engine is the worst. The engine to trans bolts and the exahust bolts are near unaccesable. It's so true. Somewhere some engineer is giggling his arse off! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 You gots to remember, the Japanese build these things with the chi. You ain't got the chi and you're screwed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4wheeldrivefun Posted April 28, 2009 Author Share Posted April 28, 2009 I guss all I can say at this point is "GET HER DONE" When you say pull the tranny with it, what do i have to dissconnect to take it out with the engine Would you guys like to see progress pictures? Also is there a wright up on to do a timing belt on my car somewhere? I got the belt off however no idea on how to put it back on correctly :-( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 (edited) GIT-R-DONE! It's a lot easier to take the tranny with the engine, so I've heard from many people. The T-case needs to be disconnected however. Timing belt: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=12828 Edited April 28, 2009 by Kingman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 So, I have made some progress today. I was unable to find a pressure gauge for sale localy stupid autopart stores. However a new pressure gauge switch was only 10.00 so i replaced that. Made no differance. crap.. you can get a pressure guage from any pool supply place or home improvement center. There's nothing special that makes it automotive. I called my local nissan shop today and spoke with the owner, He Seemed to be very smart man, It seems these pathfinders have problems with oil pressure (high milage ones), he told me that it is very common problem and to pull the pan off to check for clogable and biuld up. Problem is that you CANT #$%&$ remove then pan unless you drop all kinds of 4x4 bs parts like front diff n just BS like that. OR... I can pull the engine out to do it. Seeing how i need to do a timing belt anyways (t-belt is only 20 bucks super cheapness) I opted to pull the engine out. Ive spent all day and with the help of 2 more friend managed to get it near ready to come out. However i am having problems geting at the trans to engine bolts and the exahust bolts off. Dose anyone have a method for removing them? removing the engine is WAY more involved than getting the pan out and also doing the t-belt. Assuming you have 4WD, you just remove the front diff and crossmember, loosen stuff and hike the engine up a little bit to get the pan out. But... with it out... it's much easier to work on Also when i get everything dissconnected. where is a good point to attach the chain to, to take the engine out?? assuming you don't have slingers, find a place front left to back right (or the opposite) and locate any mounting point ont he block where you can remove a bolt and replace it with another. I put a properly threaded long bolt through a big washer, through a shackle, then into the block. Gave a perfect place to attach. And as a final note i wanted to add, I have done MANY MANY engine swaps and or full rebiulds, subaru's kia's honda's chevy's ford's mazda's you name it.. and by far this pathfinder engine is the worst. The engine to trans bolts and the exahust bolts are near unaccesable. u-joint and plenty of extensions. There was one or two that I needed to be back nearly halfway on the tranny to get the angle. There are 2 bolts on top of the tranny that you can reach if you go long with extensions. Exhaust bolts are the same. Get underneath and find a place where you can see the bolt... then start hooking extensions to get to it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. thank you! change your #6 plug while it's out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 (edited) removing the engine is WAY more involved than getting the pan out and also doing the t-belt. Assuming you have 4WD, you just remove the front diff and crossmember, loosen stuff and hike the engine up a little bit to get the pan out. But... with it out... it's much easier to work on +1 b/c you're probably going to have to drop the diff anyways... u-joint and plenty of extensions. There was one or two that I needed to be back nearly halfway on the tranny to get the angle. There are 2 bolts on top of the tranny that you can reach if you go long with extensions. Exhaust bolts are the same. Get underneath and find a place where you can see the bolt... then start hooking extensions to get to it. yep...I got this down to a science...but I highly recommend a 3" (or 2") BL then getting to the bolts isnt an issue at all while your in there, do the RMS, rear cam seals, front cam seals, FMS One tip...when you put the oil pan back on...make sure the dipstick is pulled or you'll be pulling the pan back off to free up the dipstick Edited April 28, 2009 by unccpathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4wheeldrivefun Posted April 28, 2009 Author Share Posted April 28, 2009 The engine is alrady 90% dissconnected so no going back now. darn i wish i would of known that earlyer, Next thing is i need more info on these RMS sesals??? What dose it stand for . where are they located? where do i get them etc etc and what the heck is a 2 or 3" BL You nissan people and your slang +1 b/c you're probably going to have to drop the diff anyways...yep...I got this down to a science...but I highly recommend a 3" (or 2") BL then getting to the bolts isnt an issue at all while your in there, do the RMS, rear cam seals, front cam seals, FMS One tip...when you put the oil pan back on...make sure the dipstick is pulled or you'll be pulling the pan back off to free up the dipstick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 RMS = rear main seal... on the crankshaft FMS = (can you guess?)... front main seal (remove oil pump and replace seal) front and rear cam seals on the cams BL is body lift... makes it sit higher on the frame and easier to get at stuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowTied Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 I am not a Nissan guru but here is my experience: If during the minute or so before the oil light came on, and/or during the times since that you have been testing things, has the engine sounded different? Any rattling, tapping, clacking, ticking, that was not there the previous day? If yes, then there is something wrong and there really isn't oil pressure. This could be a oil pump pick-up tube falling off the pump, a plug oil pick up tube screen, a blown oil line or something else plugged. Bad news, big fix. If all was quiet and lovely as it was the day before the light (especially if you pulled the valve cover and checked as noted above), then you are most likely getting a false low oil pressure reading. Could be failed sending unit, bad connector at the sending unit, wire from the sending unit is broken inside from age or bending, same wire touched something hot like a manifold and melted, same wire abraided something sharp like the metal edges if the fire wall where the wire passes through. Did the light come on full/bright instantly and stay that way? Did it come on dim and/or flicker? I hope you have traced the wire as muc as you can to verify it is not damaged. If the engine was quiet, I'd be looking at the sending unit myself. You mentioned the engine "ran like crap and died" - can you expand on that? Was it noisy like marbles in the valve covers or was it just sputtering and stalled? If the latter, perhaps a 12V wire has shorted out. I hope you find the issue, good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4wheeldrivefun Posted April 28, 2009 Author Share Posted April 28, 2009 Ya when it 1st came on it was a sold light, No reason for it, It just came on apx 2-8 seconds after startup and than i shut it right off. I have traced that wire as much as i can and I have replaed the sending unit. However it seems i am seeing a small amount of oil pressure because i took the valve cover off. So I honestly thing there is something cloging the pickup tube. The real Question is at this piont, Have i damaged anything. And I wont know unitill i get the pan off, engine on a stand and check out Rod and main bearings. These engine-trans bolts and exahust bolts are such a pain in the ass to get to i have made arangements to rent a car lift at a local shop. SOB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4wheeldrivefun Posted April 29, 2009 Author Share Posted April 29, 2009 Project UPDATE... I have everything dissconnected. The engine hoist is attached. And the engine Dose NOT want to come out the tork converter is not coming foward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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