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R.I.P. Pathfinder


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My pathfinder (I think) took her last cranking tonight. As I pulled her into her storage space and while watching the rpm gauge and listen to the engine start mis firing excessively... I realized she was finally done when she sputtered and finally pop... And then their was silence....

 

Compression test results:

1-100

2-80

3-80

4-50

5-30

6-50

 

Compression test from 2 days ago:

1-120

2-119

3-118

4-116

5-112

6-117

 

Timing belt looks brand new, new plugs, wires, fuel filter, rebuilt throttle body, and new oil as of 5 hours ago...

 

Help me out... Please... This is seriously my last attempt to keep the car... Or my parents are calling a tow truck sometime this week while I'm not home....

 

A nice used motor would be such an amazing thing....(less than 175,000 miles please if you do)

Edited by Nytrosfinder
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...strange...don't know that much about mechanics...but never heard of a sudden drop of even pressure on all pistons at the same time... within 2 days...anything special or weird occured during those two days ? weird sounds from the engine, or different behavior ?

unccpathfinder has got a good point ...don't give up that fast until you made all tests... double check the work you have done on it !

Edited by Pinip
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Definitely something else up with this one, no-way all 6 can drop that quickly. I will say battery also, either put it on charge overnight or pinch a battery out of another vehicle to test it again.

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Battery readings for both compression tests were 12.62v for both tests... And I put the battery charger on for about 2-5 minutes and done...

 

And their is a chance I might of done it not exactly right... Pretty sure I did though....

 

All I can say is I spent 15-30minutes last night making adjustments and trying to figure something out.... No revs no catching or anything....

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Were you cranking the engine until the gauge completely stopped moving and then a little more to be sure? Not cranking it long enough will lower the results and give a false reading.

 

I say either do it again, but this time deliberately longer and /or get a new compression tester.

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Damn, that's a good mystery. Where's Scooby-Doo and the gang when you need 'em?

 

About the only other thing I can think of that would lower compression across the board is a broken t-belt not turning the cams, or broken cams. Or a slipped timing belt. Check and see if #1 at TDC lines up the distributor rotor correctly?

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Try another compression test after putting an ounce of oil in each hole (oil-test-next-oil-test-next etc) to confirm that the cylinders walls have oil on them. Also check your fuel system including Fuel pressure regulator. Some volvos would not start after running fine due to fuel washing down the sides of the cyl walls creating no seal at the oil ring. Put a little oil in and fires right up.

 

The misifre- could be a bad FPR which would cause the above too. Also- as mentioned- double check the distributor alignment, bearing, cap and rotor. A wobbly distributor shaft (happened in my Toy) will also cause a misfire.

 

Make sure you have not blown a head gasket. Same symptoms.

Your problem sounds odd for sure but don't give up.

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...not being a mechanic...i was wondering if your vehicle has Electronic Fuel Injection or carburator

 

In the case of Electronic Fuel Injection, i have been told that if you ever pressed on the gaz pedal while trying to start your engine, ( happens in best families ) you'll end up with fuel in the oil pan, which would refer you to cstem comment just above '' would not start after running fine due to fuel washing down the sides of the cyl walls creating no seal at the oil ring. ''...but if it was the case, you would need to change your oil promptly... then do a compression test, afterwards...

Edited by Pinip
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There are TBI and MPFI fuel injection types for our vehicles. Both are electronic.

 

 

thank you Kingman ...i did know for TBI...

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I will give it another shot tomorrow in the AM... I might be doing some serious work tomorrow....

 

Compression tester is BRAND SPANKIN NEW... got it wednesday and it was my first test with it...

 

I was told the engine should revolve 3 times during a compression test from my automotive instructor at my high school who is an ASE Certified Master Technician....

 

I might pull the timing belt cover off again tomorrow and look at the timing set up again...then pull the valve covers off and take a look at the internals...

 

 

 

 

On a side note:

 

If you don't mind helping me out, or being on the phone with a total stranger... send me a personal message with your phone number so i can directly contact you... And if you do text message... let me know in the message...

 

This is kind of a bit of a buzz kill for me cause all my local friends with lifted beasts invited me to go on April 19th up to the local off roading park(Uwharrie-aka URE) for the day.... and now im stuck with nothing.... if you understand that then you understand how much i want this to be running again...

 

BTW... I am in total love with pathfinders... because of you all on the forum... thanks alot! :)

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I tell ya what from having my truck down for 3 years...it doesn't pay to get in a rush to try and make a run...URE is nice but it's not going anywhere anytime soon so get the truck fixed right then go...u can always ride along and check it out/spot

 

the battery can also show 12V but may be weak and not have the cranking amps to turn it over...also pull all of the plugs out this will reduce the work that the starter has to do by not overocming the compression on all 6 cylinders

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I tell ya what from having my truck down for 3 years...it doesn't pay to get in a rush to try and make a run...URE is nice but it's not going anywhere anytime soon so get the truck fixed right then go...u can always ride along and check it out/spot

 

the battery can also show 12V but may be weak and not have the cranking amps to turn it over...also pull all of the plugs out this will reduce the work that the starter has to do by not overocming the compression on all 6 cylinders

 

True about URE....

 

And i pulled the plugs and wires for the test....

 

and btw, i had made plans to go to URE when i was running fine about 3 weeks ago... not expecting this of course...

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Ok so basically... someone tell me what i should do tomorrow in order of what to check first leading all the way up to a major ordeal....

 

Just wanna know what i should do before i rip the engine up in search of a problem....

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Okay- well at least it sounds like you have a good attitude about this whole thing- and that will make the most important tool a mechanic ever uses function better- your brain. Keep your chin up.

 

Do you have a manual? Any manual? If not get one asap.

 

Comopression test procedure (quick and dirty- use the web to find a print version):

-remove all spark plugs.

-Dry test by installing guage and ensuring there are no leaks and its tight. Hold TBI butterflys wide open while doing test and test.

-Wet test by adding a teaspoon of oil to the cylinder being tested. Add oil, test, move to next, add oil and test- for all.

If the numbers come up- you may have just washed the cyl walls down or have bad rings (we already are in disbelief that all cyl fail at once remember). If numbers stay the same- either a valve is not closing (due to timing, bent valves or head gasket leak) or you have badly broken rings.

-Just to confirm-

-there is no water in the fuel correct? If suspicious, buy some water remover from the part store or your local meth producer (j/k- stay away from him)

-the timing is correct? Improper timing can show as low compression too.

-Can you rent, buy or borrow a radiator pressure tester? Leakage may indicate a blown head gasket or cracked head causing low compression.

-A leak down tester is best (or if you have compressed air and a regulator- you can fab a leaker by using the compression test hose that threads into the motor. Remove the valve in the tube or it will not work. Apply about 6-8 psi of air to each cylinder while it is at top dead center. Listen for air to be escaping at the tailpipe, oil cap, bubbles at radiator cap and at throttle body. Air at tail or TBI indicates leakage past valves, at radiator -head or water jacket, and oil cap- rings or valve guides.

-Battery- should not cuase the low compression but will cause a turn over- no start condition easily.

-test the fuel pressure regulator per the manual you have.

 

 

I honestly think you have a fuel issue. Low compression on so many cylinders at once and in such a short amount of time only really happens on catastrophic failures, improper use of compression tester o or head gasket (but usually only one bank of cyl)

 

Be patient, methodical and write down results. When you have a doozy like this- the problem is usually pretty easy to find if you are not freaking out.

 

Tell your parents what I did when I was 15 (a while ago!)- that working on your truck helps to build spatial thinking skills, troubleshooting and problem solving skills, perserverance and a sense of pride when you complete the job. These things keep kids off drugs and dout of trouble (ask any youth counselour) and that is the advice your shop teacher should have gave you. Mine did 23 years ago! Good luck and hang in there.

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Okay- well at least it sounds like you have a good attitude about this whole thing- and that will make the most important tool a mechanic ever uses function better- your brain. Keep your chin up.

 

Do you have a manual? Any manual? If not get one asap.

 

Comopression test procedure (quick and dirty- use the web to find a print version):

-remove all spark plugs.

-Dry test by installing guage and ensuring there are no leaks and its tight. Hold TBI butterflys wide open while doing test and test.

-Wet test by adding a teaspoon of oil to the cylinder being tested. Add oil, test, move to next, add oil and test- for all.

If the numbers come up- you may have just washed the cyl walls down or have bad rings (we already are in disbelief that all cyl fail at once remember). If numbers stay the same- either a valve is not closing (due to timing, bent valves or head gasket leak) or you have badly broken rings.

-Just to confirm-

-there is no water in the fuel correct? If suspicious, buy some water remover from the part store or your local meth producer (j/k- stay away from him)

-the timing is correct? Improper timing can show as low compression too.

-Can you rent, buy or borrow a radiator pressure tester? Leakage may indicate a blown head gasket or cracked head causing low compression.

-A leak down tester is best (or if you have compressed air and a regulator- you can fab a leaker by using the compression test hose that threads into the motor. Remove the valve in the tube or it will not work. Apply about 6-8 psi of air to each cylinder while it is at top dead center. Listen for air to be escaping at the tailpipe, oil cap, bubbles at radiator cap and at throttle body. Air at tail or TBI indicates leakage past valves, at radiator -head or water jacket, and oil cap- rings or valve guides.

-Battery- should not cuase the low compression but will cause a turn over- no start condition easily.

-test the fuel pressure regulator per the manual you have.

I honestly think you have a fuel issue. Low compression on so many cylinders at once and in such a short amount of time only really happens on catastrophic failures, improper use of compression tester o or head gasket (but usually only one bank of cyl)

 

Be patient, methodical and write down results. When you have a doozy like this- the problem is usually pretty easy to find if you are not freaking out.

 

Tell your parents what I did when I was 15 (a while ago!)- that working on your truck helps to build spatial thinking skills, troubleshooting and problem solving skills, perserverance and a sense of pride when you complete the job. These things keep kids off drugs and out of trouble (ask any youth counselour) and that is the advice your shop teacher should have gave you. Mine did 23 years ago! Good luck and hang in there.

 

Dude you are really awesome! I will take a look at all of it and give it a shot!

 

I have access to almost any tool possible

 

I got a haynes manual not too long ago... been reading that like a bible every single day...

 

 

And thanks for the advice...

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I got a haynes manual not too long ago... been reading that like a bible every single day...

 

its the abridged version of the FSM...check around the pinned section of here and there may be some helpful information and excerpts from the FSM

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SHE LIVES!!!!! Idk what happened but she lives again! I went out to her today to start a new compression test and I decided to see if she would crank, as soon as I turned the key she started! Idk why or how but I guess she doesn't run well hot....

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