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R.I.P. Pathfinder


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she lives again! I went out to do a new compression test and decided to try and see if she would start, turned the key and she started!

 

I blew a piston ring though cause she smokes more than a forest fire!

 

Help please!

 

(apparently she doesn't like to run when hot...)

 

 

 

Post Originally from "Nytro's_finder lives again!" Topic

Edited by RedPath88
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what color smoke? just to make sure its actually oil you're burning...and if it is oil can't a bad PCV cause this too?

 

Lot of blue and a tiny bit of white cause I had a little coolant spill into the intake when I was hooking it back up... This was before my throttle body...

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she lives again! I went out to do a new compression test and decided to try and see if she would start, turned the key and she started!

 

I blew a piston ring though cause she smokes more than a forest fire!

 

Help please!

 

(apparently she doesn't like to run when hot...)

Post Originally from "Nytro's_finder lives again!" Topic

 

this might put my ignorance under the spot...but if you would have a blowned ring... it should have shown on your compression test ? you have put oil in each piston from the last compression test... ( hoping you didn't have any gaz in your oil pan )...you'd have enough to make french fries...guess i should go back to bread making... :crossedwires:

Edited by Pinip
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..when i mentionned ''you have put oil in each piston from the last compression test...'' i thought that

 

you did a .'' -Wet test by adding a teaspoon of oil to the cylinder being tested. Add oil, test, move to next, add oil and test- for all.'' like cstem suggested you above, it would explain the blue smoke...

 

or you did a ''-Dry test by installing gauge and ensuring there are no leaks and its tight. Hold TBI butterflys wide open while doing test and test... then it is burning oil and it would still have shown in the compression, you would have lost pressure on at least one piston !!

 

... relating to fuel in the oil pan, a mechanic told me one day that by cranking an engine while pressing the gaz pedal (on a electronic fuel injection), you end up with fuel in the oil pan, does it mean that oil would loose its viscosity and therefore decrease the ''étanchéité ''airtightness or proof quality? between the sleeve and rings of the pistons, thus the lost of compression ? a more mechanic inclined could certainely confirm or deny my thoughts on the subject and clarify yours ?!

 

... As i said...i am good at bread making... but mechanics is made out of 99% of sweating and 1% of genious (savoir faire)...

Edited by Pinip
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yea what PINIP was saying if you put oil in the cylinders as suggested to diagnose a ring problem then when you 1st crank it you're going to have to burn all of that oil off which I would guess may take as much as 5 mins depending on how much of it blew out of the exhaust valve and into the exhaust and how long it takes to burn off in the exhaust system...

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I did I guess a dry test... Never knew theirwas such a thing as a wet test....

 

 

QUOTE(cstem @ Apr 7 2009, 06:25 AM) *

Okay- well at least it sounds like you have a good attitude about this whole thing- and that will make the most important tool a mechanic ever uses function better- your brain. Keep your chin up.

 

Do you have a manual? Any manual? If not get one asap.

 

Comopression test procedure (quick and dirty- use the web to find a print version):

-remove all spark plugs.

-Dry test by installing guage and ensuring there are no leaks and its tight. Hold TBI butterflys wide open while doing test and test.

-Wet test by adding a teaspoon of oil to the cylinder being tested. Add oil, test, move to next, add oil and test- for all.

If the numbers come up- you may have just washed the cyl walls down or have bad rings (we already are in disbelief that all cyl fail at once remember). If numbers stay the same- either a valve is not closing (due to timing, bent valves or head gasket leak) or you have badly broken rings.

-Just to confirm-

-there is no water in the fuel correct? If suspicious, buy some water remover from the part store or your local meth producer (j/k- stay away from him)

-the timing is correct? Improper timing can show as low compression too.

-Can you rent, buy or borrow a radiator pressure tester? Leakage may indicate a blown head gasket or cracked head causing low compression.

-A leak down tester is best (or if you have compressed air and a regulator- you can fab a leaker by using the compression test hose that threads into the motor. Remove the valve in the tube or it will not work. Apply about 6-8 psi of air to each cylinder while it is at top dead center. Listen for air to be escaping at the tailpipe, oil cap, bubbles at radiator cap and at throttle body. Air at tail or TBI indicates leakage past valves, at radiator -head or water jacket, and oil cap- rings or valve guides.

-Battery- should not cuase the low compression but will cause a turn over- no start condition easily.

-test the fuel pressure regulator per the manual you have.

I honestly think you have a fuel issue. Low compression on so many cylinders at once and in such a short amount of time only really happens on catastrophic failures, improper use of compression tester o or head gasket (but usually only one bank of cyl)

 

Be patient, methodical and write down results. When you have a doozy like this- the problem is usually pretty easy to find if you are not freaking out.

 

Tell your parents what I did when I was 15 (a while ago!)- that working on your truck helps to build spatial thinking skills, troubleshooting and problem solving skills, perserverance and a sense of pride when you complete the job. These things keep kids off drugs and out of trouble (ask any youth counselour) and that is the advice your shop teacher should have gave you. Mine did 23 years ago! Good luck and hang in there.

Edited by Pinip
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when I do a compression test, I watch the needle and let it pulse at least three times before taking the reading (even longer if it seems to still be making significant increase) to make sure you are catching the compression stroke as opposed to exhaust.

 

Even a little oil will smoke like a sonofabitch. Make your plugs pretty (brush the carbon off etc) and run it for a bit. If there is a specific cylinder that is burning oil, the plugs will tell you which one. Once you isolate the cylinder and if the compression test is good, I woudl then focus on valve seals.

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when I do a compression test, I watch the needle and let it pulse at least three times before taking the reading (even longer if it seems to still be making significant increase) to make sure you are catching the compression stroke as opposed to exhaust.

 

Even a little oil will smoke like a sonofabitch. Make your plugs pretty (brush the carbon off etc) and run it for a bit. If there is a specific cylinder that is burning oil, the plugs will tell you which one. Once you isolate the cylinder and if the compression test is good, I woudl then focus on valve seals.

 

I will try it out man...thanks!

 

Won't be able to do it tonight cause I got dinner with the girlfriend and her parents so I will try it tomorrow morning and let you know what I find!

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