laxman0324 Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 So I have heard that the Warn fasteners are garbage and they break easily, but I am not understanding how. So far I have had two sets of hubs. My 97 had Mille Marker (not installed by me) that when I took them off to do the brakes had a allen key head bolt on it (see pic). The Warn hubs I bought for my 01 seem like the go onto the preexisting bolt shaft with the supplied nuts, like the ones in the pic below from Dean. Given this information, why is there a different setup on the Mille Marker vs. the Warns? And given this information, I am assuming that the fasteners on the face of the hub are the bad ones, but I need a little clarification. TIA. 97 after Mille Marker installed Dean's pic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 (edited) The installer of the Mile Marker hubs probably replaced the factory stud/nut method with cap screws, perhaps because the studs were rusty or in bad shape. Over the years, I have had the factory studs snap off inside one of the hubs, which required me to replace the entire hub assembly (not cheap). I replaced the studs/nuts with allen-head cap screws, and after a couple of years, a few of them also snapped off inside the hub. Now, I am running stainless steel bolts. Hopefully they won't break! Edited January 13, 2009 by XPLORx4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 No, I just installed my Warn Hubs the other day and you do need to use the new black threaded studs. As you can see in the first pic they are alot longer. They are longer for one reason probably because they have a bigger bolt and a washer that goes on the shaft, they do reccomend that you use Threadlock on them but i did cause I wasnt sure if they would work or not with my pathy being a All Mode, but im just going to leave them here are some pics as to how I did the install. To get them off i used on each stud 2 of the old nuts that were used to hold on the old hub, and tightened them against each other using 2 wrenches and then used a socket to go over both nuts and remove the old studs, and reverse for putting the new ones back in. Good LUCKK!!! Longer Threads Using 2 wrenches to tighten 2 old bolts against each other What it looks like afterwords There is just enough thread for the bolts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 The installer of the Mile Marker hubs probably replaced the factory stud/nut method with cap screws, perhaps because the studs were rusty or in bad shape. Over the years, I have had the factory studs snap off inside one of the hubs, which required me to replace the entire hub assembly (not cheap). I replaced the studs/nuts with allen-head cap screws, and after a couple of years, a few of them also snapped off inside the hub. Now, I am running stainless steel bolts. Hopefully they won't break! WOW I hope that this day never comes for me lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 WOW I hope that this day never comes for me lol X2... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissandoms47 Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 (edited) What dean said ive had that happen a lot on my x but never on my older r50. On my new r50 i didnt use the black studs because really i think theres no point. I had just as much thread as the pic you showed andres for the washer and nut. The studs provided with the warns are for the xterras and older pathys and stuff like that where they dont have studs and drive flanges like the r50. i kept the black studs in my toolbox just incase one ever snaps out on the trail or whatever. its nice to have spares and stuff like that. Edited January 13, 2009 by nissandoms47 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CALPATHY Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 On my '97 Pathy the studs were long enough so I didn't bother changing them out. Two years later they are still fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexrex20 Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 fwiw, i didn't change out the studs when i installed my warn hubs. the oem studs were plenty long enough for the supplied washers and nuts. and i was lazy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 fwiw, i didn't change out the studs when i installed my warn hubs. the oem studs were plenty long enough for the supplied washers and nuts. and i was lazy. Ding ding ding, me too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted January 13, 2009 Author Share Posted January 13, 2009 How do you get the old studs out? Vice grips? I'd rather just do the right thing now than have a problem a couple years down the road...I really want to be lazy after reading this but I just think about the future headaches I am saving myself...Dean, do you have any specs on the new bolts you used? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexrex20 Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 How do you get the old studs out? Vice grips? I'd rather just do the right thing now than have a problem a couple years down the road...I really want to be lazy after reading this but I just think about the future headaches I am saving myself...Dean, do you have any specs on the new bolts you used? to remove studs, you use the 'double nut' method. it's pretty simple. you just thread 2 nuts onto the stud, then snug them up against each other. then you use an open-end wrench on the first nut to remove the stud. by tightening the 2 nuts into each other, they also put pressure and grab onto the stud, so when you wrench on the first nut, it backs out the stud. installation is the opposite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted January 13, 2009 Author Share Posted January 13, 2009 to remove studs, you use the 'double nut' method. it's pretty simple. you just thread 2 nuts onto the stud, then snug them up against each other. then you use an open-end wrench on the first nut to remove the stud. by tightening the 2 nuts into each other, they also put pressure and grab onto the stud, so when you wrench on the first nut, it backs out the stud. installation is the opposite. Damnit you got to it before I could edit it...01silva had already explained that, and after I thought for a couple minutes about it i realized it was to remove the studs...and I am not installing the Warn fasteners, I am going to go with a bolt of some sort...time to run to the parts store Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted January 13, 2009 Author Share Posted January 13, 2009 Ok well here are the bolts that I bought...they are the hex key bolts, metric 12.9, M8x30... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted January 13, 2009 Author Share Posted January 13, 2009 Well the first hub is on, it took 5 minutes to take off the drive flange and 45 minutes to take out the old studs, but it should be worth it...Here are pics... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Ding ding ding, me too! X2 In fact, I was able to put on lock-washers as well as washers just to make 'em nice and tight. So far these hubs have been pure gems! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 Well the first hub is on, it took 5 minutes to take off the drive flange and 45 minutes to take out the old studs, but it should be worth it...Here are pics... Looks good, but also looks like time for some new rotors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted January 13, 2009 Author Share Posted January 13, 2009 Ok, and last pic with the wheel back on...the good thing about these wheels is they are pushed out far enough (vs. my 97's stockies and the X rims) that I can fit the center cap on even with the hubs installed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted January 13, 2009 Author Share Posted January 13, 2009 Looks good, but also looks like time for some new rotors The brakes on my 01 feel much stronger than the ones on my 97, even with the 97's brand new drilled and slotted rotors and new pads I will probably take it into the dealer next time they do one of those free 100 point inspections...I checked the pads and they look brand new, so I don't really know what to expect with the rotors... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 The brakes on my 01 feel much stronger than the ones on my 97... I'm pretty sure the brakes received an upgrade from '01-up... More stopping power required for the VQ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexrex20 Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 (edited) Ok, and last pic with the wheel back on...the good thing about these wheels is they are pushed out far enough (vs. my 97's stockies and the X rims) that I can fit the center cap on even with the hubs installed... lol, i didnt know the center caps fit over the manual hubs. i wonder if it'd be more hassle to have them on, though? EDIT: well i'll be damned! they do fit, lol. oh well, i think i already threw away the front center caps. as for the wheels sticking out further... if i didn't have the factory fender flares, my tires would stick out like a mother. as it sits now, the tires line up flush with the outer edge of the fender flares. and i'm only running 265/70/16 michelin LTX A/T2. laxman, did your rig come with those Duelers, or you put them on? are they the Revos? if so, how do you like them? also, when the hell are you going to mount the X rims on your new truck?! Edited January 13, 2009 by alexrex20 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexrex20 Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 I'm pretty sure the brakes received an upgrade from '01-up... More stopping power required for the VQ. i think the changeover may have been in 99.5. my 00 has much more stopping power than my 98 ever did, and has the same front brakes as shown in the pic of laxman's 01. :02: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 i think the changeover may have been in 99.5. my 00 has much more stopping power than my 98 ever did, and has the same front brakes as shown in the pic of laxman's 01. :02: Again, I stand corrected... Damn you, Alex!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted January 14, 2009 Author Share Posted January 14, 2009 lol, i didnt know the center caps fit over the manual hubs. i wonder if it'd be more hassle to have them on, though?EDIT: well i'll be damned! they do fit, lol. oh well, i think i already threw away the front center caps. as for the wheels sticking out further... if i didn't have the factory fender flares, my tires would stick out like a mother. as it sits now, the tires line up flush with the outer edge of the fender flares. and i'm only running 265/70/16 michelin LTX A/T2. laxman, did your rig come with those Duelers, or you put them on? are they the Revos? if so, how do you like them? also, when the hell are you going to mount the X rims on your new truck?! The X rims sit flush with the body, so I will keep my 1.5" wheel spacers for when I run them to push them out to the flares... The Duelers are Revos, and it came with them...to be honest I am loving them. They are 255/70R16. Compared to the 31x10.50R15 Definity Dakota A/T's I put on the 97, these tires are awesomeverything I have tried so far (wet, dry, snow), the only area I felt the Dakota's were better was deep mud, but this could also be attributed to my not being very good with a 5 speed in those situations yet. It came with them on it. The X rims are my summer rims, I don't want them to get salt on them. I have narrowed my choice down to 4 tires for them when I need replacements this summer: Kumho ATM, Nitto Terra Grappler, General Grabber A/T2. or Michelil LTX A/T2 om 265/65R17. The BFG Rugged Trails are respectable for a highway tire, but I want the look and capability of an A/T/... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexrex20 Posted January 14, 2009 Share Posted January 14, 2009 the nitto terra grapplers are garbage in the mud and sand, but good in the rain and on the highway. i swapped them for non-revo duelers within 5k miles. the ltx a/t2 is the best tire I've ever tried, to be honest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted January 14, 2009 Author Share Posted January 14, 2009 I lied above, it wasn't the Kumho, it is a new Hankook tire, I have seen it in person and it seems pretty stout. I would love to get the LTX A/T2 but its so dang expensive... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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