Daggym Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 Hey was wondering if it would be possible to run 33x12.5x15 muddies on 15x7 rims without a problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 First, what kind of backspacing on the rims. I'm fairly sure you want between 3.5 and 4" but the extra overhang may need less. Second, 7" rim to 12.5" tire is a bit drastic. Most people would advise against it and some tire places may refuse or just have a hard time with it. I seem to remember one member (Solid Snake? Trail Chaser? Can't remember...) running the same combo and saying he can air down to 15 lbs pressure and never lose the bead seal. Third, with only a few exceptions, the general rule of thumb for 33" tires is 3+3. 3" suspension lift and 3" body lift or you will have to remove fender flares, trim a lot, or rub like crazy. All said, it can be done but I doubt it will be bolt on and drive... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 Form what I've seen here, its been done. The tire store told me 15x8 would be better because the tires want to ballon out in the center tread on 15x7 and that running lower preassure to flatten the treadprint would increase sidewall friction & temps. "so eitherway your going to shorten the life of the tire with 15x7 but well still do it if you want us too" on the other hand I have heard the arguement that; 1st gen pathys weigh arround 3800lbs divide by 4 wheels is less than a thousand lbs a wheel for a a tire thats prolly rated for over 2000lbs and therefore "sidewall friction" is not going to be an issue. I think its up to opinon from there... My opinon is 15x8 for anything wider than 11" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyhayseed Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 That's good to know. I was wondering about that. I remember everyone running big ballon tires when I was growing up. Now it's all about the 20" wheels w/ knoby rubberband tires... Gag me. I have a set of 15x10.5 set aside ($50... awesome) that I was hoping to run 31-12's on, but was afraid I wouldn't be able to get anyone to put them on for me. Sounds like it'll work just fine. Think a 12" tire will clear though? Or would it take some sort of abnormal backspace? I'm not really sure what mine are. They're pretty deep. I'll have to measure in the morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerranoNZ Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 To do it right 10" wide, what most people do 8" wide, Waste of time 7" wide I worked in the tyre industry for 7 years Rim Width Calculator http://www.tyresite.com/tyrecalc.asp 12.5" = 317.5mm. I went with 70% profile (Within 6mm) 315width-70 aspect ratio Answer 8.5" - 10" Hope that helps you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted September 17, 2008 Share Posted September 17, 2008 keep in mind, I think a 10" rim can put allot of stress on IFS and the front wheelbearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyhayseed Posted September 17, 2008 Share Posted September 17, 2008 keep in mind, I think a 10" rim can put allot of stress on IFS and the front wheelbearings. Really? So I guess looking at 13.5" Interco SX tires is excessive huh? What would the specific wear points be in the suspension? Any options for beefing up the front drive system? Would manual hubs help at all? I know of the heavier-duty steering components. Calmini arms look like the toughest option as far as UCAs go... What else? Tie rods? I really like my rims and I'd hate to give them up. I bought them from friends who cut me an exceptional deal. They ask me every time I see them why I haven't mounted the wheels on my truck yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerranoNZ Posted September 17, 2008 Share Posted September 17, 2008 keep in mind, I think a 10" rim can put allot of stress on IFS and the front wheelbearings. It's more to do with the acres of rubber attached to them (33x12.5's) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted September 17, 2008 Share Posted September 17, 2008 i am using a 8" wide wheel with 3.75" of back spacing. At full compress and lock, it makes lots of contact in the front end. They also make contact in the rear of the rear fender when the axle is tucked. You can cut away the bottom corners and try to roll them back so they aren't so sharp. Mine were a little rusty, so the tire did all the work for me. Mine still rub a little, but it's so rare that it happens that i don't really care. The insides of the rear tires do not make contact with the frame a full stuff either. my other tire was not even close to coming off the ground. it's a good thing the factory flares are flexible I hear a 15x8" wheel with neutral backspacing (4") works a little better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeBob Posted September 18, 2008 Share Posted September 18, 2008 mine are 32x11.50 on 15x8" wheels with 4" backspacing and they rub the frame quite a bit at full stuff on both sides Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyhayseed Posted September 18, 2008 Share Posted September 18, 2008 mine are 32x11.50 on 15x8" wheels with 4" backspacing and they rub the frame quite a bit at full stuff on both sides Looks good though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeBob Posted September 18, 2008 Share Posted September 18, 2008 thanks.. I think if I extended the bump stops some how it would solve the problem.. or make the coil spacers I've been too lazy to make for the past two weeks.. or both Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyhayseed Posted September 18, 2008 Share Posted September 18, 2008 (edited) How big a problem is the rubbing? Think a 10mm wheel spacer would help? I know those are supposed to be a nono, but I don't see how something that thin would hurt. You'd still be able to your your stock studs. Edited September 18, 2008 by crazyhayseed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted September 21, 2008 Share Posted September 21, 2008 Really? So I guess looking at 13.5" Interco SX tires is excessive huh? What would the specific wear points be in the suspension? Any options for beefing up the front drive system? Would manual hubs help at all? I know of the heavier-duty steering components. Calmini arms look like the toughest option as far as UCAs go... What else? Tie rods? I really like my rims and I'd hate to give them up. I bought them from friends who cut me an exceptional deal. They ask me every time I see them why I haven't mounted the wheels on my truck yet. Yeah, it is mostly stearing component failure from over-wide tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyhayseed Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 Yeah, it is mostly steering component failure from over-wide tires. Couldn't that be handled w/ the Calmini kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted September 24, 2008 Share Posted September 24, 2008 it might help a little bit, but there is so much extra weight with a bigger tire. remember the stock size it 31x10.5 on 15x7's and there is a big difference between that and a 13.5" tire on a 15x10" wheel. The UCA's will have a little more stress on them, but you will more than likely be bending tie rod ends and idler arms as soon as you start doing bouncy hill climbs. Ask 88pathoffroad. He has wider 33"x13.5x15 super swamper ltb's on his truck, but i don't recall him ever having a lot of steering trouble after he installed them. He also had them mounted on 15x8" wheels IIRC, not 15x10 which i think is too wide for these trucks. Giancarlo runs 33x12.5 on 15x7's and he hasn't reported any problems with them and he wheels his truck pretty hard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyhayseed Posted October 11, 2008 Share Posted October 11, 2008 (edited) Well, I took the plunge. 31x12.5 ProComp Mud Terrains They rub pretty bad at as little as half-turn, but I had no love for my front fenders anyway. The guys at the tireshop laughed when I said that's what a saw's-all is for.... They don't know me very well. Personally, I like the MadMax look. I'll get the fenders done as soon as I have time. For now, just being able to get into the parking lot at work is good enough. I'm thinking a body lift is in order, but I don't really want to very high. Maybe 1". Only time will tell whether the suspension holds up to the 10" wheels. I am due for new bushings, but other than that, I don't foresee any major changes. I drove about 50 miles on the highway tonight with no real complaints, other then the noise, which will take some getting used to. Edited October 11, 2008 by crazyhayseed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted October 11, 2008 Share Posted October 11, 2008 Just buy some glass fenders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyhayseed Posted October 11, 2008 Share Posted October 11, 2008 Just buy some glass fenders I like the way you think! I've been shopping all morning, but I've only found Hennmann and Duffco, neither of which show pics. I think that AC sells the Hennmann. I'm not too hip on the 4" bulge though. I'll never get the rear to match and I'm not giving up my doors like the Beal Bros. did w/ their baja truck. Maybe a little bulge, high in the arch and tight to the doors. If you know of any other builders, let me know. I'll just hack the stockers until I find what I'm looking for. No luck w/ a 1" BL kit either. A coworker recomended drilling a hole in a hockey puck... That must be a yankee thing, I dunno. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted October 11, 2008 Share Posted October 11, 2008 I posted this a while back but AC does a 1" BL per request for $100. just e-mail them or call to order cause its not in their catalog. as far as fenders, I cant remember who did this but they put them on w/o flares on the front and left the flares on in the back. since the rear flares came out as far as the front naked feners it didn't look to bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted October 11, 2008 Share Posted October 11, 2008 Yeah the bulge difference is one reason I shied away from the glass ones myself, for the same reason you brought up, nothing available for the rear. I'm thinking about doing the fiberglass on the front of my 88 anyway, if for nothing else to further lighten it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyhayseed Posted October 11, 2008 Share Posted October 11, 2008 I posted this a while back but AC does a 1" BL per request for $100. just e-mail them or call to order cause its not in their catalog. Oh sweet! Thank you. I'll write them right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyhayseed Posted October 11, 2008 Share Posted October 11, 2008 Yeah the bulge difference is one reason I shied away from the glass ones myself, for the same reason you brought up, nothing available for the rear. I'm thinking about doing the fiberglass on the front of my 88 anyway, if for nothing else to further lighten it. Be sure to loose weight equally, it it will look like this: o/o Mine is seriously off kilter ATM due to the homebrew rear bumber, hitch and tire carrier with only the headlights and hood out front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted October 11, 2008 Share Posted October 11, 2008 Well, so far I have no rear seat, nor carpet/padding in it for weight loss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyhayseed Posted October 12, 2008 Share Posted October 12, 2008 Well, so far I have no rear seat, nor carpet/padding in it for weight loss. Well, you've balanced the weight of your highlift anyhow. I'll bet that rod will turn a 12sec quarter easy... So long as your manifold welds hold out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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