I have problems, many problems

[Paffphinder1989]

I am having trouble with my pathfinder

 

What's wrong:

 

Carbon buildup around my exhaust

 

Occasionnaly:

 

Idles like a 2 cycle and puffs black smoke

I am losing coolant very quickly, cannot find a leak (Drains in ~ a day)

Kills sometimes when put in reverse

RPMs drop and raise back up

Kills occasionaly while I am driving

Has difficulty (struggles) to shift at times

 

I have been told this could be:

 

Blown head gasket

Vacuum leak

and the EGR Valve

Transmission modulator

 

Since it does it so seldomly, when I have taken it in people think I am nuts,

because it does not do these things constantly.

 

Oil and Tranny fluid look fine.

 

Please give me your 2 cents

 

Much appreciated!

[adamzan]

For the coolant, check this bypass hose, it is hard to get to though. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...&hl=coolant

 

About the weird running, whats you're exhaust like? Mine did that, stalled when put in gear, barely idled, black smoke, turned out the 2 cat's were clogged, that also fixed my trans always shifting high. (truck had NO power)

Edited July 17, 2008 by redfinder

[Paffphinder1989]

I did have to replace that hose once before, it was a PITA, and I have just replaced my whole exhaust and cat, and it doesn't stink, but I spose it would be worthwhile to check that for coolant loss. I will check tomm and get back, thnx.

[Precise1]

Ok, this is just glossing as there are soo many things, some maybe inter-related...

 

Carbon buildup around my exhaust

Occasionnaly:

Idles like a 2 cycle and puffs black smoke... O2 sensor, MAF sensor. There are threads on cleaning/changing them. Try to search (advanced/more options) and if you have no luck, we'll find them for you.

 

I am losing coolant very quickly, cannot find a leak (Drains in ~ a day)... No leaks on the ground? No water in the oil? Could be a blown head gasket and it's going out the pipe, hence the black exhaust?

 

Kills sometimes when put in reverse... Auto tranny? Faulty switch/auto brain? due to low, erratic RPM??

 

RPMs drop and raise back up... Sounds like a vacuum leak. Selectively spray around vacuum lines with WD-40. If RPM increases you have a leak there. Also check the functioning of vacuum diaphrams (disk shaped deals at the end of a vacuum line). You may need a manual to do that.

 

Kills occasionaly while I am driving... Need better discripion of symptoms/situation.

 

Has difficulty (struggles) to shift at times... Back up to reverse dying+old fluid, overheating (install aftermarket tranny cooler!!), filter clogged?

 

Blown head gasket

Vacuum leak

and the EGR Valve

Transmission modulator

 

All are possible. I'd check the engine sensors, vacuum first to try to get it to run right. Water leak, I don't know. Have coolant system pressure checked, then check the oil before starting, then start. If it leaked down into the cylinders you should get major steam and stumbling. Good news would be carbon removal...

 

Like I said, this is all recorded here, if you can't find it, holler and we will...

 

B

[Slick]

your check engine light MUST be on (if it's functional).......... run the codes (the ecu is under the passenger seat)

[94extreme]

yup. 02 or MAF. and you better look harder and find that leak. any mixing of lfuids? water and coolant in either compartment?

[87 Pfinder]

If it is not leaking coolant then there is only one other place it can go and that is into the combustion chamber, do a compression check of all the cylinders and open the radiator cap while it is running and check for combustion gas . There is a leak tester that has yellow fluid in it and you put it where the rad cap goes and it will turn blue if combustion gas is present. Cracked heads are not uncommon on these motors , usually from overheating, you did not overheat it??right. Good Luck.Kris Loomis Master L1 ASE,Tungsten Performance Butte Mt 406 498 8245

[Slick]

i don't suggest popping the cap while the truck is running, unless you like 3rd degree burns and geysers.......... and air in your cooling system...... if yer losing coolant, and it's not leaking visibly from anywhere, then just peek into your overflow bottle, when i blew my HG i could see the oil mixed in. (the oil will float)

[87 Pfinder]

i don't suggest popping the cap while the truck is running, unless you like 3rd degree burns and geysers.......... and air in your cooling system...... if yer losing coolant, and it's not leaking visibly from anywhere, then just peek into your overflow bottle, when i blew my HG i could see the oil mixed in. (the oil will float)

take the cap off before you start you will not get air in the system , oil will not mix with the coolant if coolant is going into the combustion chamber,

[Slick]

take the cap off before you start you will not get air in the system , oil will not mix with the coolant if coolant is going into the combustion chamber,

you obviously never saw the write up i did about my truck then hehehe

 

it's very ahrd to decipher all his problems...... maybe with a better description and a seperate break down of all the issues, but i went x eyed trying to read all that....

[94extreme]

take the cap off before you start you will not get air in the system , oil will not mix with the coolant if coolant is going into the combustion chamber,

yes it will.

[87pathy]

yes it will.

 

no it won't.

 

if you get coolant in your combustion chamber, you "could" mix cooant with oil. Hence, water passing your rings, , but you won't get oil in your coolant through the combustion chamber (unless his head gasket is virtually none existant, and its leaking oil and water into the combustion chamber).

 

I vote head gasket.

 

But, black smoke is not a symptom of water in your combustion chamber, white smoke is.

Black smoke is generally oil in your cumbustion chamber.

[adamzan]

Black smoke is generally oil in your cumbustion chamber.

Isn't that blue smoke

[87pathy]

Blue smoke is BAD!!!

 

rings, and all kinds of bad news.

 

I have found that black / black blue smoke is oil in the cylinder.

[adamzan]

Well I guess any smoke is bad.

 

anyways good luck man! I'm sure you'll find the prob, hope its something simple.

[94extreme]

no it won't.

 

if you get coolant in your combustion chamber, you "could" mix cooant with oil. Hence, water passing your rings, , but you won't get oil in your coolant through the combustion chamber (unless his head gasket is virtually none existant, and its leaking oil and water into the combustion chamber).

 

I vote head gasket.

 

But, black smoke is not a symptom of water in your combustion chamber, white smoke is.

Black smoke is generally oil in your cumbustion chamber.

 

I'VE NEVER SEEN THE @!*% JUST DUMPING INTO THE CYLINDERS if it's just the head gaskets. it always mixes. if the cyl wall is cracked he's be describing other thing too but he's not.

 

 

Blue smoke is BAD!!!

 

rings, and all kinds of bad news.

 

I have found that black / black blue smoke is oil in the cylinder.

 

black smoke is rich so not all that bad. not that one shouldn't fix the rich condition.

[morpheus]

Blue smoke = Burning oil

Black smoke = Unburned fuel

White smoke = Burning coolant

 

Have you pulled out your spark plugs at all?

 

I'd guess most likely head gasket if there is no external leaks. With loosing that much coolant, you should be able to tell by looking at the tips of the spark plugs.

 

The cylinder(s) that are causing the problem will most likely have white tipped plugs.

 

If you can get your hands on a cooling system pressure tester and a borescope you can pull the plugs, put the system under pressure. Wait 2-3 hours and then look into each cylinder with the scope. You will most likely find a puddle of coolant on the top of the pistons of the cylinders that are leaking.

 

The black smoke you are getting is probably when the engine is burning off the coolant, it can't burn the fuel.

[Paffphinder1989]

As of now, the oil looks perfect, as does the inside of the radiator and the overflow reservoir, and the tranny fluid is a lovely shade of manly salmon, and smells fine.

My dad told me to run it for about 15 mins and then check to see if any of my plugs are wet, so I will start there.

It is really undriveable right now, and I don't want to do any further damage, so sadly she will have to sit for a little while.

 

I will keep you all posted, thanks for all the help so far!

[Paffphinder1989]

For now, I will have to tow it back from North Dakota to Minneapolis. I will be renting a dolly (tow w/ 2 wheels off ground)

 

So I will disconnect the driveshaft and put the two front wheels in the dolly.

 

I assume this is correct??

 

I will be pulling the plugs on Tuesday though to check for white tips or wet plugs, and I will post what I find in this thread.

 

If I could explain anything any clearer, let me know!

Edited July 21, 2008 by Paffphinder1989

[87pathy]

if you just pull the drive shaft in the rear, all your t-case oil will drain out.

 

you need to find a way to plug it, or just disconnect it from your rear end, and strap it up and in somehow.

[mws]

'89 Pathfinder, 4x4?

 

You can tow it with the rear tires down, driveshaft connected and transfer case in NEUTRAL.

 

In fact, you can even tow it with all 4 down with the TC in neutral. Although Nissan's official position is "no", there are pathies around that have been towed behind motor homes for many, many thousands of miles with no issues.

[Paffphinder1989]

To clarify a bit, it is a 1994 Pathfinder WD21 V6 4wd Auto Trans SE

 

I will be pulling the plugs tomorrow, so I have my fingers crossed that it is nothing major , and just something I overlooked.

 

It may be as simple as a sensor and a coolant leak, so I will bust my buns tommorrow on my day off, and will update ASAP!

[87pathy]

'89 Pathfinder, 4x4?

 

You can tow it with the rear tires down, driveshaft connected and transfer case in NEUTRAL.

 

In fact, you can even tow it with all 4 down with the TC in neutral. Although Nissan's official position is "no", there are pathies around that have been towed behind motor homes for many, many thousands of miles with no issues.

 

I wouldn't

 

with it in neutral, there is no way for your output shaft bearing to be properly lubricated.

[Paffphinder1989]

Okay, I pulled the plugs today and they were all covered in a black soot. The tip and the electrodes were a gray-brown, and had nothing on them. One was wet on the threads, but nowhere near the tip. Going to sit under the truck for a good while and try and find the dang leak. I will try and add pictures a little later tonight.

 

Check Engine Light is not on, can I still pull codes if it idles rough, but the light isn't on?

Edited July 22, 2008 by Paffphinder1989

[Precise1]

Black soot, but dry? Did you run the truck before you pulled them? From my experience, that indicates severe rich running, perhaps with some oil burning. Your case seems to be odd though... The tips should be tan when everything is running right. Can you borrow a coolant system pressure tester? Pressurize the system to 15 PSI, watch to see how fast it leaks down (may force the leaks so you can see them). Keep the plugs out, then crank it and see if any mist comes out of the plug holes.

I seem to remember a buddy that had intermittent problems, the head hasket leaked when it was cold, but almost sealed up tight when warm IIFC. Made it hard to trouble shoot. Keep at it, well help all we can.

 

You can test for codes any time you want, it's usually worth trying and will do no harm. Do you know where the write up is?

 

B