NaturaTek Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 Hi, Did my first oil change as you guys read in other post. Went smooth but I got the recommended quarts way off. So before I go get my local crap advice, I'd ask you pros first! I want to change my plugs/wires next. I've read thru posts theres a 6 plug thats hard to remove, but with a tool that comes with pathy makes it easier. I do not have that tool. Is there something I could buy at sears hardware to remove this certain plug with ease? Is there anything extra I should do, like spray the plugs with PB or something? Lol, that could be dangerous? Yes I heard NGK is best recommended but there are a few flavors of this plug. I really dont care about the Best, but I want to know what WORKS BEST with our 90 pathfinders. Please let me know what series of ngk works nicely. Wires, I assume they all the same or is there a nice recommendation for those? I want to do this job nicely without my noob arse messing up, any tips/tricks are gladly appreciated! Thanks guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 You can get the #6 plug out, and replaced with a typical spark plug socket and ratchet, with a couple of extentions on it. It's just a matter of knowing where to reach. IT'll take you a while the first time. NGK Platinum plugs at LEAST. Some use the Iridium plugs, some don't, but definitely go with the platinum ones. for wires....there's stock replacements, and there are upgrades. Stock are 7mm, I believe (thickness). I hear that 8mm wires are supposed to help give you a little stronger spark, though, I don't know. These aren't "high performance" engines by any stretch of the imagination. If your wires/plugs are old, you'll notice a bit of a difference by simply replacing with stock components. Personally, I've used Niehoff wires, in 7mm thickness, and they've been fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 Hi, Did my first oil change as you guys read in other post. Went smooth but I got the recommended quarts way off. So before I go get my local crap advice, I'd ask you pros first! I want to change my plugs/wires next. I've read thru posts theres a 6 plug thats hard to remove, but with a tool that comes with pathy makes it easier. I do not have that tool. Is there something I could buy at sears hardware to remove this certain plug with ease? Is there anything extra I should do, like spray the plugs with PB or something? Lol, that could be dangerous? Yes I heard NGK is best recommended but there are a few flavors of this plug. I really dont care about the Best, but I want to know what WORKS BEST with our 90 pathfinders. Please let me know what series of ngk works nicely. Wires, I assume they all the same or is there a nice recommendation for those? I want to do this job nicely without my noob arse messing up, any tips/tricks are gladly appreciated! Thanks guys. actually try the dealer for the wires. my dealer had them cheaper than the ones at my local parts house. about 69 bucks. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyhayseed Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 NGK V-Power. Cheap, OEM replacement, reliable. I've used these in several cars (including my Pathfinder) and never once had an issue. They last a long, long time. As mentioned, the #6 is easy with a little practice and a couple of extensions. I use a universal joint as well. The hardest part is having to physically lay across (or sit on if you're small enough) the motor to reach. I have a problem with (so called) "platnium" plugs, but I don't think this is the thread to debate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GhostPath Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 Yes, go with factory wires. You will find that they're competitive with or cheaper than the aftermarket ones at your local parts store AND they're of higher quality. I've never seen a factory wire suddenly "go bad", unlike many aftermarket ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 Yes, go with factory wires. You will find that they're competitive with or cheaper than the aftermarket ones at your local parts store AND they're of higher quality. I've never seen a factory wire suddenly "go bad", unlike many aftermarket ones. I actully had some bad out of the box. (after market ones) Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GhostPath Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 I actully had some bad out of the box. (after market ones) Mark Yeah, I have had that happen to me too. Really sucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 Whatever plugs you decide on, just remember that they're thrading in to an aluminum head. That means that you don't want to crank them down like a gorilla or else you'll strip the threads on the head and ruin them. Dunno torque specs offhand, but alll you really want to do is snug them down a bit as if you're threading them into plastic. They aren't holding the engine together or anything so they don't have to be extra tight, just snug. You might want to pick up a little packet of anti-sieze when you get the plugs to help them glide in the threads easier, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 exchange the wires one at a time. i use just the regular plugs. none of the other frills really do anything except empty your pocket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaturaTek Posted February 26, 2008 Author Share Posted February 26, 2008 Oh I forgot, what is the PROPER gapping for plugs, for pathfinder?? Some people has said that you can tweak a little with certain gaps. Since I dont know jack about that stuff, I at least want to gap the correct normal way for my pathy. To the guy who said he had probs with the platinums, please speak your mind! How long of an extension would u guys recommend for ratchet to remove #6 plug? If I feel a plug wont come lose, are there any tips to loosen them up? A friend had said if I break a plug while removing it, I pretty much junked the car as it is no good. How much truth there is to that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammyb33 Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 hah well you can always fix a car no matter what, its just how much work and money do you want to put into it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 (edited) I have never used the "nissan tool" but I think I may have 2 of them laying around...send me a PM and i'll search for them and I could send one to ya for the cost of shipping if I have them still. Edited February 26, 2008 by unccpathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 Yeah, there was just a story about someone breaking a plug off in the head, not a fun thing to fix, but fixable. Gap is .33 IIRC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowTied Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 (edited) How long of an extension would u guys recommend for ratchet to remove #6 plug? If I feel a plug wont come lose, are there any tips to loosen them up? A friend had said if I break a plug while removing it, I pretty much junked the car as it is no good. How much truth there is to that? Well, it would not junk the eninge, but you are looking at possibly removing the cylinder head to fix that - a mechanic would charge at least $500 labout for that plus gaskets etc. is my bet. Plus you will have to tow it to a shop. Tip: A spark pug socket has a little rubber grommet in it. This helps keep the socket in line with the plug so you don't get a bad angle and break the porcelin end off. A lot of poeple find the grommet is a pita to work with and throw them away (I do). BUT then extra care is needed to keep the socket straight will loosening and tightening - especially if using extensions. A flex head ratchet can be very handy, depending on the engine. As was mentioned, do not over torque them, get the spec. If it is too hard to get a torque wrench on a plug, practice with the torque wrench and a bolt in a vice to get the feel so you can replicate that in the engine bay. If you do that, make sure you hand is the same distance up the ratchet handle as it was on the torque wrench. With practice you can do this by feel everytime. I use "half a grunt" on a short ratchet Numbering spark plugs with something like a clothes pins is good or take them off one at a time. Match lengths as you go. Good idea to swap the cap and rotor while at this. HTH Edited February 26, 2008 by BowTied Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaturaTek Posted February 26, 2008 Author Share Posted February 26, 2008 Thanks for the input guys. .33 gaping it is. I googled and some people spray PB blaster and/or gently tap on a hammer to the ratchet, like a poormans impact gun. Spraying stuff down the plugs sounds troublesome? Also read it doesnt take much tightening, since threading on motor (or was it the plug) is aluminum. I should be doing this in a week, I'm informed so I wont do a infamous oil change again lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 The head is aluminum. Get some Anti-Seeze and put on the new plugs' threads. Torque spec is only like 15ftlb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyhayseed Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 To the guy who said he had probs with the platinums, please speak your mind! Since you asked, I'll put it like this; I deal with real platinum electrodes at work. They can superheat glass past 1300°F for years w/out going bad, yet a Bosch "platinum" electrode burns up within a few thousand miles. That being the case, do you think they're really using platinum? I learned my lesson the first and only time I tried them. I won't even bother trying NGK's offerings. "Platinum" plugs, while being a great concept, are a glamor item that don't really do anything but waste money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted February 27, 2008 Share Posted February 27, 2008 Yeah, there was just a story about someone breaking a plug off in the head, not a fun thing to fix, but fixable. the PO had cross threaded my #6 and I just kept it that way and got it the best I could in there and it was ok...when I had to pull the heads after breaking the timing belt I fixed the threads for gap the parts store or dealership to verify Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaturaTek Posted March 30, 2008 Author Share Posted March 30, 2008 Ok guys, just want to follow up on some stuff. .33 gaping for 90 pathfinder, and use NGK platinum at least. Reaching that sixth plug, can I do this with a 3/8 ratchet and a 6inch extension? Or would you recommend 1/2 ratchet? I'm tall so I'm sure I can reach any area over engine. Is it safe to do, hmm, lets say spray PB on the 6th plug overnight before removing it? I'm not saying my plug is stuck, I haven't tried yet. Just would like to know all options. And antiSieze, is that the exact name of the product and available at any autoparts? What about walmart? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandShark Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 This is what I use. Permatex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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