ILoveMyPatty Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 Well, after a lonnnnng time havin my Pathy down, she's starting to come together now. I'm not a mechanic, nor do I have ANY experience whatsoever with stuff like this. The most complicated thing I've ever done is an oil change, but I decided to tackle my engine swap by myself to save money. As of right now, the engine is sitting in the Pathy, bolted up to the transmission. Tomorrow I'll go and see if I can't at least get the front diff back in. I'd like to have everything done tomorrow with the diff and drive shafts, so all I have to worry about is the starter, alternator, A/C (which I might not put back in... might do some reasearch about onboard air.. anyone got some ideas?) then the fan, rad and intake. Oh yeah, and change my valve covers to the nicely painted blue ones I just did, and put my polished intake manifold on, with the new plug wires. We'll see how she goes. I'd have pictures for everyone but my digital camera decided to freeze up on me during the cold snap we had here while I was out ski-dooing with some buddies. Anyway, I'll keep everyone posted as to how I make out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 Tomorrow I'll go and see if I can't at least get the front diff back in. Be careful with that and dont get your fingers under it...its bad if it falls on them...the best luck I've had was setting it on a jackstand with the snout facing the ground and then take a jack on the pumpkin and jack it up into place and put the eye bolt in then move the jack to the snout and jack it up to get the side bolts in...its a lot easier with 2 people and a lot easier prior to dropping it on your finger (gave me the nervous factor every time I'm under it now) Good luck links to Pix of my finger(dont let it scare you though I shouldnt have been out there doing what I was doing for the amount of time I was doing it and plus it was on a botched removal during the strip job on a 95): http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_image...9897_9_full.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_image...9897_8_full.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted February 22, 2008 Author Share Posted February 22, 2008 I don't know what you mean by the eye bolt. You mean the two eyes that mount onto the suspension crossmember? I didn't undo the diff there, I took off the 4 bolts that those eyes are mounted to. There are no eyes on the crossmember, they're attatched to the diff still. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 ahh see the RHS I pulled those 2 bolts nad left that brkt attached to the diff then the one on the front left side I undo from the diff b/c for me it was easier to rotate the diff without the brackets on but it may be easier for you the way you did yours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted February 22, 2008 Author Share Posted February 22, 2008 We'll see how she goes this way. If I can't make 'er work I'll try your way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zonianbrat Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 Good luck to you sounds like you have learned a ton already since all your previous experience was oil changes. Good job and find a way to take lots of pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 Your an inspiration for me, if you can do that, I surely can do my timing belt. By the way, was that all done on this new engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted February 22, 2008 Author Share Posted February 22, 2008 Well, she's pretty much finished with the exception of putting the diff back in, and the driveshafts. Then all the plugs and hoses, fan, alt, starter. Mostly simple stuff compared to what has already gone by. I missed the chance of getting my picture taken in my engine bay, stupid digital camera. Anyway, doesn't look like I'll be working on putting the diff back in today, I'm alone at the house and don't feel like turning my finger into something gruesome... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted February 22, 2008 Author Share Posted February 22, 2008 No, the t-belt hasn't been done on the new engine. The new engine has 180k on it, so about 105k miles? I'll do the t-belt after I get it running. Is there a way to do the t-belt when it's not running? I'm not sure how to adjust the timing... but I guess the t-belt could go ON, and timing could be adjusted afterwards, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 (edited) No, the t-belt hasn't been done on the new engine. The new engine has 180k on it, so about 105k miles? I'll do the t-belt after I get it running. Is there a way to do the t-belt when it's not running? I'm not sure how to adjust the timing... but I guess the t-belt could go ON, and timing could be adjusted afterwards, correct? IMHO i think you should've done the t-belt and water pump and all that crap before you put it in, or at least do it before you put the radiator and everything back in. The interval is 105k miles or for us canadians 168k kilometres. But I plan to do mine on my spring break, and I'll take some pics to help the wd21 owners out, because the pics in the how to are for an r50, although its almost exactly the same. Edited February 22, 2008 by redfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 I'm alone at the house and don't feel like turning my finger into something gruesome... haha well I dont have pix of my finger from yest but I was drilling through some .032 sheet metal and didnt have it clamped down and I got a 3" slice abo ut 1/4" in on my left thumb...it took an hr to stop bleeding and that long to convince my boss I didnt need to go to the hospital. IMHO i think you should've done the t-belt and water pump and all that crap before you put it in, or at least do it before you put the radiator and everything back in. The interval is 105k miles or for us canadians 168k kilometres. I think its better to get it in and run it to remove the factor that you may have messed up the T-belt in the event that the engine doesnt run unless you saw it run on a test stand or in a truck prior to buying...even after driving wheelmans truck after his wreck I waited to do the t belt until after it was in and had been test driven in my truck...I guess its up to that person Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted February 24, 2008 Author Share Posted February 24, 2008 Well, I saw the motor run, in the wrecked Pathy before I bought it, so... If the t-belt and water pump isn't THAT big if a deal, I can do it before the fan and rad go in. If I've gotten this far with the swap, do you think I'll be able to handle a t-belt change? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuong Nguyen Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 yeah, T-belt change will be easy for you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted February 24, 2008 Author Share Posted February 24, 2008 What's the approximate cost of a new t-belt and water pump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 What's the approximate cost of a new t-belt and water pump? t-belt $11-$18 h2o pump $35-$55 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 Well, I saw the motor run, in the wrecked Pathy before I bought it, so... If the t-belt and water pump isn't THAT big if a deal, I can do it before the fan and rad go in. If I've gotten this far with the swap, do you think I'll be able to handle a t-belt change? If you can do an engine swap you sure will be able to handle a T-Belt change The best/easiest time to do that would have been when the engine was still out. However doing now, before the radiator and fan are in will be the next best time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted February 24, 2008 Author Share Posted February 24, 2008 The only difference I would assume is the amount of room you have to do it, yes? That doesn't seem like that big of a deal, but now that the timing cover has to come off, maybe I'll clean it up a little bit so she looks nicer in there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted February 25, 2008 Author Share Posted February 25, 2008 Hmmm.. Which way does the front driveshaft go in? The short part of it towards the front diff, or towards the t-case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissandoms47 Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 One of the flanges should be a little thicker. That side goes towards the transfercase. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted February 25, 2008 Author Share Posted February 25, 2008 Ahh, alright. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted February 25, 2008 Author Share Posted February 25, 2008 I checked the front driveshaft and both flanges are the same thickness. I would assume that it does matter which way it goes in, so I wont go and just throw it in. Is anyone able to run out to their lonely Pathy sitting in the driveway, rub her fender and say "I'll take you for a spin soon", then check underneath and see which way the front driveshaft goes in? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 i believe the slip yoke goes fwd...but if I remember tomorrow I"ll check Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILoveMyPatty Posted February 26, 2008 Author Share Posted February 26, 2008 Unsure of which end is the "slip yoke" end. But if you could check tomorrow uncc, I'd be stoked. Until I get this figured out, I can't put my diff back in... well I probably could but it's so tight in there I couldn't take the DS out until the diff was out. The front pipe is in the way. But I got the floorjack today, so I'm ready to try this diff thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 the diff should go in no problem with the shaft out...but then again the exhaust was the last thing I hooked back up...since I wont get home late I"ll run out and check it right fast... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 yea slip yoke goes forward...this is where the greas fitting is...also a good reverence the larger diameter of the shaft goes to the rear and the smaller diameter goes fwd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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