blazinid Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 So I woosed out and took my 95 pathfinder to the local shop to have the timing belt done this morning. I also asked them to diagonse the Ticking noise i've been hearing. Well turns out the noise is a broken bolt on the exhaust manifold. Guy told me $75 bucks to have the manifold decked flat and $250 to remove and replace plus an hour labor per broken bolt. Does this seem high to anyone? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronHorrocks Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 Yes. I paid way too much to have my passenger side one fixed years ago. Now my Drivers side is busted and I didn't want to pay that... So I had a buddy at Nissan hook me up with a bunch of parts. now I can have it done cheaper! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blazinid Posted September 25, 2007 Author Share Posted September 25, 2007 Yes. I paid way too much to have my passenger side one fixed years ago. Now my Drivers side is busted and I didn't want to pay that... So I had a buddy at Nissan hook me up with a bunch of parts. now I can have it done cheaper! Can I hurt anything by running with a leaky exhaust manifold? I know it has been leaking for awhile and would like to fix it but money is tight and if I can put it off that would be better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 not hurting but your MPG are suffering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 1. Please fill out your profile, Location ect... 2. Tick, Tick on cold starts is almost always a broken exhaust stud or 3 3. Screw Driver Mechanics can change their own Timing Belts.... if one of us is close, we might even offer to let you use our garages.... 4. Cost me $10 to have my manifold Decked:) 5. If your going to spend that kind of $$$$ upgrade to some Thorley Headers... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronHorrocks Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 Next time I break an exhaust manifold, maybe I'll buy some of those fancy things Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blazinid Posted September 25, 2007 Author Share Posted September 25, 2007 1. Please fill out your profile, Location ect... 2. Tick, Tick on cold starts is almost always a broken exhaust stud or 3 3. Screw Driver Mechanics can change their own Timing Belts.... if one of us is close, we might even offer to let you use our garages.... 4. Cost me $10 to have my manifold Decked:) 5. If your going to spend that kind of $$$$ upgrade to some Thorley Headers... Yeah thats what I thought, are the headers a direct replacement? Cost? and how hard is it to remove a brocken bolt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 6. Search is your friend... hehe Link in Sig for the Thorley's Pathrider just did a little write up on removing a broken stud.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATHRIDER Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 (edited) Yeah thats what I thought, are the headers a direct replacement? Cost? and how hard is it to remove a brocken bolt? Soak all the bolts with PB blaster for about 2 days...and when youre removing it soak it some more. Also the bolts on your collector and Y. Edited September 26, 2007 by PATHRIDER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted September 26, 2007 Share Posted September 26, 2007 removing busted bolts can be a total PITA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark94XE Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 Yeah, I had the pleasure to drill and helicoil three of mine on the driver's side this Monday. What a PITA!! The stinkin broken studs just refused to come out! Oh well, a few hours and a LOT of swearing and it's all done. SOOO nice not to have that ticking noise. Get in there and do it yourself. You'll feel better after your done... a real sense of acomplishment. Good luck and have fun. Oh yeah, beer helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blazinid Posted September 28, 2007 Author Share Posted September 28, 2007 Yeah, I had the pleasure to drill and helicoil three of mine on the driver's side this Monday. What a PITA!! The stinkin broken studs just refused to come out! Oh well, a few hours and a LOT of swearing and it's all done. SOOO nice not to have that ticking noise. Get in there and do it yourself. You'll feel better after your done... a real sense of acomplishment. Good luck and have fun. Oh yeah, beer helps Yeah my buddy is back home who is a much better mechanic than I, so I think together we might tackle the exhaust man. Side note: After I got the pathfinder back from the repair shop I was driving it to work the next day, pulled up to a stop sign and could here some nasties coming from the engine. This was a new noise and not the exhaust. They have had it all week long and have not been able to pin point the sound. It is there on cold starts but goes away quickly. He has pulled everything back off to check his work and says there was nothing wrong, including the cover bolt being in the right places. My question is would there be anything in the engine that would let go by replacing the timing belt? they also did pulleys, bearings and waterpump at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted September 28, 2007 Share Posted September 28, 2007 What does it sound like? A knock? Ping? Whirring? Screech? There are a million different sounds it could make.....give us a description. Since you've said the timing belt was done, if it's making a whirring type of noise, it could be that the belt is too tight. Without knowing the type of sound, we really, though, have no hope of helping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blazinid Posted September 28, 2007 Author Share Posted September 28, 2007 What does it sound like? A knock? Ping? Whirring? Screech? There are a million different sounds it could make.....give us a description. Since you've said the timing belt was done, if it's making a whirring type of noise, it could be that the belt is too tight. Without knowing the type of sound, we really, though, have no hope of helping. I'd say not a knock or ping, but more of a rattle clank. but went away pretty fast. And they have had it all week so that was the only time i've heard it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roost Posted September 29, 2007 Share Posted September 29, 2007 (edited) If it was a knock and ping, or rattle and clank that sounds like metal falling down onto metal, the mechanic may have left a tool in the engine compartment(I loose more tools that way on the road). . If it continues, there's either a lot of tools in the engine area and I will be following you around for a couple of days, or you may have an ass. bracket/bolt loose. Thousands of options that come from little knocks and pings to be heard in a forum . Edited September 29, 2007 by Roost Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLouisGod Posted September 29, 2007 Share Posted September 29, 2007 Buy Thorleys. Go to an exhaust shop. Let them deal with it. Or, Just live with it. Just my .02. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATHRIDER Posted September 29, 2007 Share Posted September 29, 2007 I would also suggest to get thorleys...its well worth the money...when I did mine I can tell the difference in performance right away.I can punch the accelerator and it goes ..I even have 33's on my rig. If youre thinking of going a different route I would suggest to just wait if you dont have the funds and save up for the better one.You wont be disappointed with thorlys I have a ticking sound on mine for darn 4 years before I replaced it.Funny thing is they said that that ticking is from a broken stud but when I removed mine I dont have a single broken stud in there however I manage to snap one using a darn impact wrench (made a note not to use impact again) Im real happy with thorleys.Of all the upgrades I did ,this one really is worth every single red cent.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeppelindrummer Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 Yeah, I had the pleasure to drill and helicoil three of mine on the driver's side this Monday. What a PITA!! The stinkin broken studs just refused to come out! Oh well, a few hours and a LOT of swearing and it's all done. SOOO nice not to have that ticking noise. Get in there and do it yourself. You'll feel better after your done... a real sense of acomplishment. Good luck and have fun. Oh yeah, beer helps So, i don't really even know where to start, to try to explain my exhaust manifold problem. My car is soooo ridiculously loud. and at first, i didn't mind too much, but now its starting to get annoying, and i was wondering if your ticking problem was very loud?.. I know that my problem is the Exhaust manifold, but could it be bigger? and, how would i go about finding what to drill out? If you have no idea! thats totally fine, i really didn't know who to ask or where to start. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 (edited) So, i don't really even know where to start, to try to explain my exhaust manifold problem. My car is soooo ridiculously loud. and at first, i didn't mind too much, but now its starting to get annoying, and i was wondering if your ticking problem was very loud?.. I know that my problem is the Exhaust manifold, but could it be bigger? and, how would i go about finding what to drill out? If you have no idea! thats totally fine, i really didn't know who to ask or where to start. Thanks! Not that this helps any... But the same thing is happening to me .. loud ticking.. and now I can smell exhaust I also have that start up clunk thing now .. And I am pretty sure it all has to do with the exhausts manifolds, I am going to bring mine to have them looked at next week. I will let you know what kind of a price quote they give me. -Mike Edited October 19, 2007 by MadManMike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 Oh crap... (all estimates are for both sides) Local Japanese Auto: $850.00 (for both sides) + extra labor for broken studs Gregs japanes auto (japanese auto chain in WA) $1200 + labor for broken studs Local muffler/exhausts shop $560 + $50/h for broken studs Dealership.. (lol) $1406.00 includes 2 broken bolts... after that $72.00 a bolt.. I HATE LIVING ON THE WEST COAST! Oh and I will be attempting my own exhaust manifolds now... (during xmas break ) -Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95shakinPF Posted October 20, 2007 Share Posted October 20, 2007 (edited) So, i don't really even know where to start, to try to explain my exhaust manifold problem. My car is soooo ridiculously loud. and at first, i didn't mind too much, but now its starting to get annoying, and i was wondering if your ticking problem was very loud?.. I know that my problem is the Exhaust manifold, but could it be bigger? and, how would i go about finding what to drill out? If you have no idea! thats totally fine, i really didn't know who to ask or where to start. Thanks! Actually the tick,tick noise is not all that loud unless you accelerate hard! It also seems to get quiet after the engine warms up a good bit. I think you may have a cracked exhaust manifold! Is it always loud? Blaring noise when you accelerate? Same sound when engine is first cranked and after its been running a while, or does it change at all? As far as what to drill, you will have to find which studs are broke when removing your manifolds! I know I've got at least two broken studs that I can see, no telling how many after I get to removing the manifolds!! I'm really not looking foward to that job, but you can bet your a$$ I'll be going back on with thorleys! This may help a bit! http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...;hl=300zx+studs Edited October 21, 2007 by 95shakinPF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeppelindrummer Posted November 2, 2007 Share Posted November 2, 2007 (edited) Oh crap... (all estimates are for both sides) Local Japanese Auto: $850.00 (for both sides) + extra labor for broken studs Gregs japanes auto (japanese auto chain in WA) $1200 + labor for broken studs Local muffler/exhausts shop $560 + $50/h for broken studs Dealership.. (lol) $1406.00 includes 2 broken bolts... after that $72.00 a bolt.. I HATE LIVING ON THE WEST COAST! Oh and I will be attempting my own exhaust manifolds now... (during xmas break ) -Mike Yeah!!! it is horribly expensive!!! i've just kind of ignored it for a while, but now that winters coming, and its cold... my windows aren't down as much, and my heater is on.... wooooooo, does it smell like exhaust.... i really don't know what to do. and passing out, doesn't sound too fun. haha. plus, the looks i get when i drive by aren't funny to me anymore.... Well... if its in neutral, and i'm just coasting, its not too loud, but if i downshift, or accelerate hard... it gets loud as hell. clicking... after driving a while, it doesn't seem to really get any quieter, it is pretty much always, insanely loud. (minus coasting) i was told i'll have to pull the engine to get the manifolds out. is that true? and looking on ebay, they have new manifolds for somewhat of a decent price, would it be wise to buy those, and try and replace them? ive got my chiltons, but i'm definitely no mechanic. haha -Kraig Edited November 2, 2007 by zeppelindrummer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeppelindrummer Posted November 2, 2007 Share Posted November 2, 2007 Actually the tick,tick noise is not all that loud unless you accelerate hard! It also seems to get quiet after the engine warms up a good bit. I think you may have a cracked exhaust manifold! Is it always loud? Blaring noise when you accelerate? Same sound when engine is first cranked and after its been running a while, or does it change at all?As far as what to drill, you will have to find which studs are broke when removing your manifolds! I know I've got at least two broken studs that I can see, no telling how many after I get to removing the manifolds!! I'm really not looking foward to that job, but you can bet your a$$ I'll be going back on with thorleys! This may help a bit! http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...;hl=300zx+studs Well... if its in neutral, and i'm just coasting, its not too loud, but if i downshift, or accelerate hard... it gets loud as hell. clicking... after driving a while, it doesn't seem to really get any quieter, it is pretty much always, insanely loud. (minus coasting) i was told i'll have to pull the engine to get the manifolds out. is that true? and looking on ebay, they have new manifolds for somewhat of a decent price, would it be wise to buy those, and try and replace them? ive got my chiltons, but i'm definitely no mechanic. haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted November 2, 2007 Share Posted November 2, 2007 Heres my .02 + a few bucks. You can do this all yourself if you have the right tools. This is what i used when i did mine... and i have had to do mine a few times probably pulled atleast6 or 7 busted studs all together. I used: -Small reversable drill -Reversed drill bit -good penetrating lubricant - the SQUARE EZ-out.. much stonger than the round ones [[you do NOT want to break an easy out in there]] -Lots of patience. spray the penetrating oil on the stud.... then let is soak for a few minutes and then hit it again. wait a while say 20 minutes atleast before you start drilling. the reversable drill and bit are so if the bit catches and jerks the stud it jerks it to the left to pull the stud out, instead of twisting it right pushing it in farther. sometimes you won't even need an EZ-out the bit will catch and it will come right out. But drill the hole all teh way through the center of the stud. spray you penetrating oil through new hole in the stud so it can work from the back side of the stud also. Wait a few minutes for the penetrating oil to do it's thing and then use the EZ-out to extract the stud. about the manifolds, you should be able to get them out and install headers without the removal of the engine. I honestly would not put manifolds back on because down the line you will be replacing studs again. Thorleys are the way to go. If you decide on the thorleys, PM me so we can work something out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhatter_xe Posted November 2, 2007 Share Posted November 2, 2007 not sure if you;re attempting this, but yesterday i had luck drilling a notch or slit into the stud by drilling a couple small holes in a row and then using a flathead screwdriver to unscrew it. It worked great, be sure to soak in liquid wrench for a few days first though. Of course, be extremely careful not to slip and drill the threads or the head. Good luck dude! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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