Roost

I agree that it is a common problem, but to get to fix it, can be a bear. I just removed the wire and now I don't have interior lights with the rear hatch open. Pick your evil.

Buy my headers

If this doesn't work, get some turn signal fluid with the antifreeze .

OK...plastic...ummm...well you can patch plastic, but it can be tricky. Motorcyclist do this with their plastic body parts, but it isn't holding the coolant in either. So you have to ask yourself, do you feel lucky? If it was me, I would order the radiator and then try to fix it if I could, we'll call it "trial and error on the safe side".

Take it to a engine radiator specialist and they should be able to braze it for you for a minimum cost vs. the cost of replacing it. But I would ask for a quote b4 you get the work done. I have had repairs made when if I replaced it, it would have only cost me a few bucks more. Live and learn.

Another note that just occurred to me is that you will need to take off the cap that is about 21mm to see when the grease comes out through that little pin hole while you stuff it in with your pinkie.

Your choice, of course, but if it is a new oil pump, I would HIGHLY recommend priming it with the grease now and avoid the 200 bones to replace it later.

It looks like your brake fluid is needing a changing. I would hate to see your brakes fail on you.

I am sure that there will be plenty to finish fixing if you want to come up and turn some wrenches or chase some circiuts, when you get the cluster from me. That reminds me, are you going to want any part from the block or heads?

So to continue with the timing, yes it was at about 10 and I bumped it to about 15 and it runs like a champ now. Now I just have to pull the codes and figure out what that is all about.

"with a timing light after installation while it was running", but I just re-timed it and had the wrong notch lined up for timing.

Timing was set properly when I installed engine, so I am unsure what it is. The wife just called and said the engine light had just come on, so maybe there is another novel of codes. Hopefully just one or two.

Just got done replacing the engine and transmission on my 95 4x4 V6 and the take off seems to be a bit sluggish. I had a check engine light that was sending more codes than an naval morse code man typing a novel. So I cleared the codes and drove it around awhile and no new check engine light. Keep in mind that I haven't driven the PF in about 3 months and I drive a company vehicle that has a nice big V8 and then also ride a motorcycle that is not slow. So it may be that I am use to the more powerful get and go or should the PF have a bit more punch on the take off? If anyone is around here that would be willing to let me see if their PF does the same thing, I would be very grateful. \ Any input would also be very appreciated. Semper Fi

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It is also where you need to have the engine when you replace the distributor. Unless you marked where the "dizzy" is located when removing it and replace the exact same way as you removed it.

TDC is Top Dead Center which means that cylinder #1 is at the top of the stroke and crank and cams are lined up. It is the base line for all that is related to tearing down an engine and putting it back together, to include a timing belt replacement. Hope this helps

I laughed so hard...I think a little pee came out my nose...wait..was I drinking lemon aide? Anyway, that was great . Don't forget the windshield washer lubricant....

I know that you can get some from Aerostich. They are a company that is a motorcycle equipment vendor and they have this film for the motorcycle headlights. I am sure that you can get it elsewhere.

My Pathfinder is home and running beautifully. But there is a check engine light that I am going to have to pull the codes on. Do some timing adjustment and figure out why the 4x4 light isn't coming on.

Boy did we ever....let's keep it going . Sending the new kid to get the left handed ratchet wrench.

I heard that the lady went into the parts store to get a 710 cap because hers was cracked. Either way still a funny blond moment.

Well...someone tried to get me with that, but I had a cresent wrench that had "metric" printed on it. Put a stop to that one around the shop. :tonguefinger: .

I was thinking that it may be the LSD slipping in and out. The clutches in the rear end may be sticking as well. Try replacing the rear axle oil. If you DO have a LSD, make sure you have the right fluid.

Yes you have to prime the oil pump before you start it. If you don't, your looking at investing another chunk of change. Use some white lithium grease and pack it into the hole that is about the size of your pinkie finger. Use your finger to stuff it in until it comes out a very small hole on the other side. Trust me when I say it seems like it takes a lot of grease, but $5 worth of grease or $200 for a new oil pump and then the grease?

When I turned wrenches in the military, the "older" guys would send the "younger" guys to the tool room for the light bulb repair kit and a can of beep for the PM services that we performed. What a hoot when the parts guy would send them to the tool room and the tool guy would send them up the the supply guy and sometimes in would continue for quite a while. Tax dollars hard at work. to the fun.