Roost

I was able to get my O2 sensor off with the "Blue Wrench". Didn't come out well, though.

I had a 89 pathy with the stock chrome skinny rims and the 31's ran just fine. Went though three different kinds and had no problems with any of them. The skinnier rims just didn't let the tire fill out all the way.

I still suck...won't get over to work on it until Monday now. Work obligations and a little family time is needed to keep the peace. Will post pics as soon as I learn how to use this fancy typewriter.

Forgot to mention that the exhaust manifold bolts that I got where from a bolt specialty store and I paid a little more than $5 for the dozen that I picked up, with washers. Grade 8.8 bolts and don't remember the size, but there is a thread in here that tells the exact size to get.

I wouldn't recommend buying an engine from a JY. If there is a japan engine sales store that sell engines that they get from japan, get one from there. They sell you an engine with the miles between 40-60k miles. They can explain how they get their engines from japan. I got a engine, transmission and transfer case for $1600 and they stand behind their products. I would also get a new timing belt. A few buck for the added security. As well, you'll need the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, thermostat housing, valve cover and other exhaust gaskets. Headers are a good option at this time. I had to cut away the bolts at the crossover to the rest of the exhaust system and then had to remove the O2 sensor by force. Now will need a machine shop to tap the O2 sensor hole in the exhaust. By putting headers on, you'll move the bolting down to a more manageable location, near the side of the transmission. Also put heat tape on the exhaust to protect you starter and other electronics going through the same area. Plan on it taking longer than you expect and costing more than you want. I am going through the process right now, and it seems like I find something else that needs to be done everyday. If you look under the thread I started asking for "transmission replacement help", I kinda go through the process while I am doing it. If you have any questions, there are plenty of very knowledgeable people here that can help you with specifics. Semper Fi

I suck , I didn't make it over to work on the engine today. My buddy had to go to SC and I am using that as my excuse to stay home.

Alot said b4 that I didn't read, so I hope I am not repeating this. If you get with a credit union and get their Visa or MC, you'll get some of the best rates. My sister pays her monthly bills with hers and the pays the card/s off every month. Her credit score is near 780, there about. Just a suggestion.

I have the same problem. But the battery died in a different manner. I really would love to find out how to fix this problem, as I was about to go and buy a new alarm system to replace this one. Any electronic geniuses out there ?

What have you used, that you would say, is the best P oil that you have used I am using PB Blaster and this stuff seems to kick some serious rusted arse. Semper Fi

I'm currently in the process of replacing the engine and transmission. The tip and trick that will probably help me the most is, putting the bolts and nuts from different items in sandwich bags with what the are for written on the bag. It may sound simple, but I am a simple man .

Are you sure it's not the self destruct 30 second timer?

I guess I got lucky with the parts store that I went to. I gave them the specs on my truck and a shopping list. 2 days later they called me and said all the parts where in, to include the RMS. Plus a 20% discount for knowing them for so long and ordering so much :tonguefinger: . Some time it's good to kiss a little butt.

I must be tired, but this would be a "duh" moment if I ever heard one . Thanks for keeping me straight though, I do appreciate the help and advice

The nice thing about where I am working at, is that this guy has just about every tool I could need. But he doesn't like magnetized tools, so I will have to remember to get a magnet from my work truck and take it with me for the reinstall. I got the new engine taken down to almost the short block tonight. I plan on doing the timing belt, h2o pump and the seals tomorrow at a minimum. But I now have to go buy a intake manifold gasket as the new intake doesn't match mine by one lousy bolt and the valve cover don't match by a couple of little wiring brackets. Oh well, more trips to the auto shop. Semper Fi

Won't that tear up the TQ seal?

I just looked at 4x4Parts.com and put my eyes on the tire carrier parts kit. Look under Trail Gear, then Trail Accessories. I hope this helps.

Also finally got the O2 sensor off. Required putting the torch to get it cherry red hot and a pair of vise grips and a hammer. Now I just need to find a tap big enough to re-thread the hole in the exhaust. During removal, the threads from the sensor decided that they wanted to stay in the exhaust. Damn loyalty. But it is off and now I can take it to the local machine shop and have it rethreaded

OK...the engine and transmission are out successfully. I used a 14mm offset wrench to get the flex plate bolts out and it worked like a charm. Of course, my buddy was holding the crank at the same time, which made this possible. Now I get to swich all the parts over from the old engine to the new engine and the same for the transmission. Getting it back together is going to be the trick for me, as I dropped one of the flex plate bolts into the bell housing, which did not come out until I remove the tranny completely. This will suck if I drop one during installation. ANY SUGGESTIONS? I would magnetize my finger tips, but I don't know how, yet.

I have a exhaust rattle and found two brackets with rubber insulators that have torn free from themselves, causing the exhaust to rest on the frame and brackets. Ordered the bracket yesterday from the dealership, as I could not find these parts on any of the regular site that I go to for auto parts. I hope that the rattle is removed when the new brackets are installed. Of course, I have to get the new engine in before I can tell if that solves my rattling issues. But hey, if it doesn't, I have a new little boy, 2 1/2 weeks old, that may love the rattling. Semper Fi

Doing it alone is just plain suicide...and no fun. It's always more fun to have someone hear the new curse words you come up with when the O2 sensor won't come off and now is a bright, shinny and shred of a mess still stuck. Still looking for any other suggestions for removing the flex plate from the TQ and how to get it back together. I can get anything apart, but getting it back together correctly is a whole other challenge. Semper Fi

Get a great education, makes lots of money and pay someone else to go through the aggravation of fixing everything you have fun breaking. If it's to late for that, get the Service Manual that the technicians use. I have it on CD, paper and a down load from another NPORA feller. I also have the Chilton and Haynes manuals. Between the three, you can usually get the information you need to either fix it right, or really screw it up. Also, find a really good mechanic that just plain loves wrenching to help you whenever you run into something that is just kicking your arse...oh yeah...feed him so he keeps coming back.

I thank you for your offer. I have a mechanic helping me out, at his house. He knows Honda's 8 different ways from tomorrow, so he looking for the challenge of the PF. We are both having a lot of "fun" doing this engine and transmission swap. I get to find more things that I didn't know where a problem and really stress out the Visa. Just ordered and bought two exhaust bracket that had broken long ago that attached to the muffler and behind the cat. I also broke the horn while removing exhaust manifold bolts. One more thing to now replace . We'll see how things go.

I had to take a couple days off and recoupe from the truck and the baby, at least a little. I will be going back at it Monday afternoon, since it finally decided to be fall and not summer this past week. I picked up a offset 14mm wrench hoping it might be easier, at a minimum, I bought a new tool. I have been taking pics and will try a post a report later.

...just make sure you saw the engine your replacing yours with either bench tested or driven and then removed or they have some warranty but it would really suck to do all that work to turn around and have to remove it again... The engine came from a reputable engine dealer that came from a high recommendation from a good friend that I trust. The guy that I bought it from said he has never had any problems with any of his engines and stands behind his product. He also knows that I work for the Sheriff's office and would probably like to stay out of jail . Seriously though, these are good people that seem to want to do more business down the road. I did just get off the phone with him though and he said that I could return the engine if I wanted to, that's a good thing. Semper Fi

OK...so its a PITA...got that. Removing the transmission/transfer case with removing the TC/flex plate, doable? If so, would working on the TC/flex plate be easier once the engine is removed? Yes I am removing/replacing the engine for a LOW mileage engine after a few upgrades. Time was not on my side when I planned and purchased the engine, transmission and transfer case. So pulling and rebuilding was not an option. Things changed and I am not sure items can be returned. Oh well...huh.