Roost

The engine went in tonight. It fought me the whole way, of course. But I think we will try to get the transmission in tomorrow, after I wrap the headers. I coated them with high temp. enamel first to get the good base before I put the wrap on and then seal it with a additional coat over the wrap. I think this will make a quality wrap and seal that should last a good long time. Of course, with my luck, it will fall off after I put it on, on my way home.

I had stated earlier in my "transmission help" thread that I was also replacing my engine. I am now nearing the point of putting the new engine in. I have to prime the new oil pump and install the oil pan. Yeah, I have spent way more money on this than I would have ever anticipated. I finally got a good engine on the third attempt. The nice thing about buying local, when the first one had the wrong crank, he replaced the engine. When the second engine was burnt, he replaced it and apologized repeatedly about it needing a third and how the 2nd should have never made it out of his shop, being in that condition. The third engine is beautiful. But of course, needed more than I had anticipated. The new engine oil pump wouldn't work on this application and I won't trust the old one at 160,000 miles. $200 for new oil pump. Oh yeah, threw away the oil pump gasket that came with the new front main seal because I didn't think I would need it. Another $15 for new seals. I had to modify a bracket so the new headers would fit. No money, but another head ache. Also had to modify(bend) the exhaust tube from the header to the intake. No money, just another head ache. Took the oil pan off twice, once for the oil pump install and the second to prime the new oil pump. Oops, I forgot. The exhaust bolts that I picked up to replace the manifold bolts, where to long. I got those replaced free when I went to pick up the oil pump. I didn't originally purchase the bolts from the same place. They had pity on this old, greasy, busted up, wanna be mechanic. I decided to wrap the new headers after I had ordered and received the headers. Another $11 for handling charges for the exhaust wrap kit. This is all after having to carve my old exhaust system up to get it apart. And then reaming off the O2 sensor in the exhaust and needing to buy another. $35 for new O2 sensor with a lot of shipping head aches, gotta love Ebay. Also had to buy a new O2 bung to replace the one that is now eternally plugged with the remnants of the old O2 sensor. $18 for new bung hole. Wife now want to kick my old bung hole. . More updates, head aches and pics to follow.

Find out where you voltage indicator is hooked up and that will start you on you path of TS this phenom. If it located near the alternator, then the indication is proper. If it more "down stream", you would seem to have another problem to find. I hope this helps. Semper Fi

Are you testing voltage at the battery or the alternator? There can sometimes be a dramatic difference in the two, depending on what accessories you are running at the time. Just a thought.

Does it do a lot of drinking whiskey the night before and then seems to smoke more than normal the next morning? Wait, hold on, are we talking about the Pathfinder?

I went with the pacesetters and I will be putting them on this week. I plan spray them with the high temp spray then wrap them after a couple days of curring. I got them for what seems like $300 less then the Thorleys. I would have probably spent the money on the Thorleys if I hadn't sunk so much into the engine/tranny replacement.

This may sound obvious, but it's the simple things that I miss and some people don't know about this. Have you tried starting it while in Neutral, not Park. This would tell me if it's the neutral safety switch. Obviously if it starts in Neutral but not in Park, something has worn out. If neither of these positions work, it still could be the neutral safety switch or the starter solenoid. If it is the starter solenoid, it may be premature failure due to oil dripping on it from filter changes. You might want to relocate that filter if you find this to be true, you might want to relocate it anyway to prevent this from happening.] Hope this helps, Semper Fi

Mine is not quite as creative as 5523's or as impressive as k9sar's, but it's the nickname I picked up awhile back,"rooster". See, not impressive nor creative.

You may have done the h2o pump already and may have already done what I am about to suggest, but I am going to suggest it anyway. While you in there, go ahead and replace the timing belt and the cam and crank seals. Might as well get new ass. belts, too. While you at it. get some new headers, a oil filter relocation kit and a transmission cooler to by-pass the stock one. What's a few hundred extra buck, it's a Pathy, it deserves it, doesn't it .

I have to agree with checking the MAF sensor. My was doing the same thing. As a matter of fact, it would cut off while rounding corners, really made things difficult to steer. I would start the engine, let it idle then wiggle the MAF sensor. If that seems to fix it, turn off engine, open up the connector to the sensor and squirt some WD-40 into the connection. Should fix your problems. Hope this helps. Semper Fi

Does anyone have a suggestion on where to locate a single filter relocation kit on a 95 auto? I am about to undertake this and am looking for options, as I can not seem to find a good location, yet. Semper Fi

I have a good engine that just needs a new seals and gaskets. But it is in NC, just a short drive from TX . If it's worth it to you, I'll sell it to you pretty cheap. i would keep it, but I have no room to store it, although it would be nice to rebuild it and have it waiting in the off chance that I would need another. PM if you are interested and it's also listed in the For Sale thread Semper Fi

If all above doesn't correct your problem, although I do agree that it's probably a tire balance issue, you may have a separating belt in the tire. I REALLY hope that is the balance and a rotation wouldn't be a terrible idea at the same time. The squeal might be brake dust build up. If it looks like you have a bit of build up just get some brake cleaner spray and spray it down pretty good. Don't worry about getting the pads a little wet, this stuff dries pretty quickly and won't affect you pads, but don't soak the pads either. I hope this helps.

I started taking parts from the old engine and putting them on the new engine. h20 pump, cam and crank seals and then I went to put them crank gear on for the timing belt. Well my luck continues as I know it. The crank is to big, 32mm as compared to the old crank is only 25mm thick. GRRRRRR. We are switching the engines tomorrow. So I just removed some plates the go behind the timing belt, the oil pick up tube, the spark plugs and other items that had been transfered. Oh well, more practice on the engine. The guy I bought the engine from tells me the engine is from a rare 97 Nissan that has the larger crank, other would have been fine. He offered to buy new cam and crank seals and the h20 pump. Alls well.

+1...my light was doing the same thing and I thought that my fluid level was OK...my mechanic buddy put a little in and the problem went away.

Raw may have meant to say that when you remove the cable from the terminals, the truck should keep running, indicating the alternator is good. If it dies, bad alternator.

Oh yea, take lots of pics before you start, so you can have reference pics if you need them. And you can then post some of those pics with your expert advice for the rest of us .

I am in the process of doing the exact same thing you are getting ready to do. Definitely 2 engine stands and a good table. One recommendation that I was giving that now makes perfect sense, tear down the new engine to the block and heads(make sure you have TDC), replace the seals and the timing belt and the h2o pump. Don't start removing parts off your original(old) engine until you are ready to swap the directly to the new engine. This will save some confusion in the process. Also look at where the oil dip stick is in the old engine. There are three or four brass plug ports that the dip stick can go into. If you don't put your dip stick in the same as the old, you will not be able to get it out, once installed and you will not be able to switch locations of the tube while the engine in in the truck. Also, don't forget to transfer the plug into the new hole you just made. Lots of oil will find it's way out. If you have questions, like stated earlier, like the gov't, we are here to help . Semper Fi

Got the timing belt, h2o pump and the cam and crank seals out tonight, only to find that I had the wrong seals. I will get the correct seals tomorrow and then get the seals in and the pump and belt, at least. I will then try to get as much of the other stuff transfered over. I will try to get some pics posted soon. Semper Fi

If I left them naked, wouldn't that possibly mess with the electrical stuff i.e. starter? BTW got the timing belt, h2o pump and the cam and crank seals out tonight. Found that I had the wrong seals for the cams and crank. Will hit again tomorrow with the right seals and then get the new pump and timing belt. Then maybe get the other stuff transfer over. Semper Fi

If there is a D*ck's sporting goods near you, try them. I was there the other day just looking around waiting and wasting some time and saw one that attaches to the rear tire and carries two bike. Good luck

Welcome to the "club". I, too, have a 95 P-finder. I am going through a engine and transmission replacement right now @ 160k miles. I highly recommend a transmission cooler and by-pass the factory one.

I will putting headers from Pacesetter on the P-finder when I reinstall the engine and tranny, should I wrap the exhaust or leave it naked? Opinions and ideas would be appreciated.

It was the combo of the engine, transmission and the transfer case that cost me a total of 1600 bones. The engine was less than half of that. I would have to pull the receipt to check. If you check the internet and/or Ebay, you can find these japanese direct engines for about $600 plus shipping. That gives you a bargaining chip when you go and talk to the folks at the local center. Semper Fi

OK, now that I have your attention, I broke the actual horn off in the engine bay. Electrically, it probably still works, but it is just hanging there. If I am going to replace it with an after market horn, I want something that isn't annoying but a bit "stronger" then the factory. Any ideas or suggestions?