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Welding (what Type Do You Use)


josh
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I was just wondering what everyone uses on here for the custom projects for welding. I myself am new to welding and have a Campbell Hausfield Mig wleder. Ive only used flus core in as of yet. Havent gotten around to getting the bottle of gas. I got a hitch from the scrap yard the other day for 20 bux, but it had the 1 inch or 1 1/2 inch mount and after a disc and a half of my grinder I got it off. Now I wanna put my 2 inch mount on which is 1/4 inch thick, and after I thought I had it good and welded on one little knck form a 2 lb sledge sent it off the hitch frame. So just wondering what everyone else is using for there projects.

 

or is it even worth putting a 2inch mount on a class 2 hitch, any way to strengthen it up to hold more weight?

 

 

thankss

guys

 

Josh

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I was just wondering what everyone uses on here for the custom projects for welding. I myself am new to welding and have a Campbell Hausfield Mig wleder. Ive only used flus core in as of yet. Havent gotten around to getting the bottle of gas. I got a hitch from the scrap yard the other day for 20 bux, but it had the 1 inch or 1 1/2 inch mount and after a disc and a half of my grinder I got it off. Now I wanna put my 2 inch mount on which is 1/4 inch thick, and after I thought I had it good and welded on one little knck form a 2 lb sledge sent it off the hitch frame. So just wondering what everyone else is using for there projects.

 

or is it even worth putting a 2inch mount on a class 2 hitch, any way to strengthen it up to hold more weight?

thankss

guys

 

Josh

 

Hi Josh,

For what your doing, flux core, if applied properly, should be fine. Unfortunately, I don't think i'm capable of teaching you how to weld on the Internet. Have you cleaned the pieces before welding? What kind of amperage were you using? Also, an argon or argon/co2 bottle (Dual Shield) will help improve your results considerably, increasing penetration and shielding the molten weld puddle better, reducing contaminates/porosity. What are the specs for you welding machine? Sorry i can't be more helpful. I'm not sure where to start.

-Clean base metal

-Proper machine setup

-Correct Filler metal

-Stickout distance

-Travel Speed

-Torch angle

-Torch manipulation

:shrug:

 

Generally, flux core is a great hobby weld wire. Good penetration with minimal user training required and rapid deposition rates. Although to be honest, i can't remember when i used it last without shielding gas...

 

Keep practicing, and try Lincoln Electrics website for pics a suggestions, they have a very helpful online education area.

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I've done gassless and some MIG...I like gasless for learning...I have been able to lay good beads without a lot of slag buildup...I have done gas a couple of times and it was way different than the gasless...the wirefeed needs to be a lot slower or you create these huge worm beads...its 1 of those things where I think no1 can really teach it to you (they give you the basics and then you figure it out from there) pick it up and do it and figure it out...I want to get a miller or a lincoln to start off with flux core but has the ability to expand to gas...I always watch the Sunbelt Rentals site for a good used 1 but I havent gotten 1 yet...the next hobby/toy is down to welder/guitar/xbox360 or wii...I think the gf will get me a wii or guitar so I wont spend more time in the garage :(

 

but do get a chipping hammer and brush to make sure u have solid welds (i didnt really know about this and when I went back and checked all my welds they were good for the most part...a couple had slag buildup but most were even and all the slag was on top...

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If you can plug your welder into a regular 110v wall socket that is probably your problem. Flux core wire is good stuff. If you're not shielding it with co2(which is dual-shield, the flux is one the co2 is the other. Argon-co2 mix is not dual-shield.) You really need to clean the paint/rust/oil off the surface with a wire wheel on a grinder. The flux(or whatever shielding agent being used) is to keep the oxygen off the molten steel, and get the impurities out. If you don't have enough power(amps) to burn thru the impurities and penetrate the steel the weld will never hold.

 

You should post up some pics of your practice welds and some of us can guide you on proper technique from what we see.

First thing to remember when welding with a spool gun is to SLOW DOWN. Slower is usually better especially when welding with inadequate power. This is a hard one, but don't watch the arc. Watch the puddle. If you watch the puddle you know when to slow down more or speed up, and you can see whether or not you're covering both pieces of what you're welding together. How are you weaving your arc? You should be doing slow overlapping circles or even overlapping the letter "C". If you're flat welding in the corner of a 90deg angle(most common weld) you should be doing your overlapping "O's" in a counter clockwise rotation so that the arc is hitting fresh steel on the bottom and then going up to the other piece then back thru the puddle over and over for best results. You should also dwell at the end of the bead for a second of two so that the weld doesn't taper off and make a weak spot that is most likely where it'll end up failing.

 

Please DO NOT practice learning to weld by making mods to your rig. Practice on scrape steel till you're confident that your welds will hold then torture test them by bending the steel at the weld(a bench vise and a long pipe welded to the test piece is a good way to do a controlled bend) and checking for cracks around the weld where it meets the steel, or by working on them with a nice size sledge hammer. If you grind the weld down flat before testing it you can see failures in the weld much better. You don't want to lose a trailer because of a weld breaking, or any piece of your rig that could come off and go bouncing into the car's windshield behind you. You can greatly increase the strength of what you're welding together by using gussets. They are simple triangle pieces of steel that you weld into any corners that need extra support/stability.

 

If you or anyone else wants a portable mig welder with commercial grade power(250+amps) that cost less than $500 PM me. I've been welding professionally for years and never wanted a welder at home because the units that plug into 110-220volts were a joke compared to the 480volt welder I used all day at work. Now I have a home/rig welder that's pushing around 300amps from two deep cycle 12volt batteries that I can keep in the pathy with me all the time. I've already used it several times to do trail repairs on other peoples rigs and my own. Not to mention the rear bumper/tire carrier and jerry can carrier I've built with it.

 

 

Good luck and welcome to the wonderful world of welding. :crossedwires:

 

David

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Stick. I use an old lincoln 225amp AC stick welding machine. I can weld anything and in any possition. more versatile than a mig in my opinion

 

 

I hate stick welding with a passion. It is more versatile, but it's also a pain to deal with. I'll never weld with a stick welder as long as I have a mig welder at my disposal. I would suggest to anyone wanting to learn to weld to start with stick welding then move on to mig after you know how to stick weld enough to get by when you need to. Most new welders think it's called "stick" welding because you weld with a stick. Then they find out the real reason in the first couple of minutes. :laugh: It's just like with driving. You can be the best at driving an automatic, and never learn to drive a manual tranny. One day you'll find yourself in a situation were a stick is all that's available you're screwed because you never learned it.

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(which is dual-shield, the flux is one the co2 is the other. Argon-co2 mix is not dual-shield.)

 

Tons of Good Advice David. To clarify, i was indicating that using c02 or a co2/argon mix as your shielding gas with flux core was dual shield. My apologies for any confusion...

 

And in my experience, stick welding is the superior welding process. It's deposition rate may be slower, and it's cleanup may require slightly more time, but it is capable of producing the strongest joints in the most diverse environments. Also, the required power source is usually cheaper and easier to maintain/more dependable.

 

GMAW, GMAW-Pulse, and FCAW were designed primarily for manufactures who wanted a fast deposition rate, and lower personnel costs, seeing how just about any idiot can do it with very little training. Thus lower hourly wages and training costs. GTAW-Manual is also pretty easy, so much control, but also so slow, and the environment must be tightly controlled. Also prep time can be extensive. Eh, sorry to ramble, I've done nearly every process professionally at one time or another, and i feel pound for pound, stick welding (SMAW) is the most challenging, most versatile, and therefore most fun! (plus, since it's relied upon in commercial construction so heavily, i've made great money using it) Although my fellow Nuc Pipe Welders at work think i'm crazy to be so fond of it...

 

So, if you could, take a class at a CC or trade school near you. I'd recommend starting with Gas welding or Gtaw (their amazingly similar in application), that way you'd learn about the basics slowly without all the smoke and splatter of stick welding. Then when you get what your looking at, move to stick like David suggested. Once you master that, the rest is easy LOL, just like he said. You'll fall asleep with any of the semi-automatic processes after that.

 

What part of Vermont are you in Josh? Burlington way, or Bennington way?

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Please DO NOT practice learning to weld by making mods to your rig.

 

 

That is something that should go without saying, but a lot of people need to learn.

 

 

 

As for 220v vs 110v machines, it doesn't matter if you know how to weld.

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Thanks for all the tips guys, Im gonna get some scrap stock and start practicing more.

 

I am 30 minutes south of Burlington PDCCD, Little town of Bristol lol

 

 

Gotcha. I lived in Winooski for a year or so. I've also lived near troy ny and bennington. There's a good welding school nearby. Keep practicing, stay safe.

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Please DO NOT practice learning to weld by making mods to your rig.

 

Very good advice...I had a buddy who welded for the 1st time ever on his trans am for some bracketing where he put a locked ford 9" in...I told him that A. I would get more than a 110V welder to do it B I would get a pro to do it since he has right at 500RHP...He didnt listen and the welds cracked (luckly there are bolts that go through the plate into the subframes so it did not come apart on him but he has since reground and welded several times...but still wont take my advice on getting a pro to do it...I suggested that we paid Richard a visit b/c I know he's good with his metal working and wouldn't over charge...but ohh well

 

when I started learning I practiced with all different sheet thicknesses and some tubing including some chopped up pathy frame rails with a 110V wire feed and it took time to dial it in but when I started building a bumper out of frame rails i did the fat ass test and laid it across 2 tires and jumped up and down on it probably 100 times (probably about 500lbf assuming my jumps were about 2g) on the front and rear side and didnt get any cracking so I assume that they were good enough welds for something like a bumper...

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well, i currently have only my lincoln 225 ac/dc stick machine because my millermatic 250 literally burst into flames (damn mice). and stick welding is kinda outdated in my opinion, but has way more options over mig.

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After reading this thread I feel like I should just throw my welder in the garbage, its a mastercraft 70amp mig with optional argon, and to think, i was going to weld my pathy frame with it. I'm going to practice with an arc.

 

I'd really like to get started so I can work on some projects, are there any welders out there that are a good value but won't hurt the wallet so much, and I know you get what you pay for.

Edited by redfinder
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It's do-able with a 70amp unit....but it's not going to be quick. Slow wire feed, and highest heat setting will get you through the frame repair, but the welder will hit duty cycle quickly, and need to cool down often. For the amount of welding you need to do, it'll take a LONG time.

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It's do-able with a 70amp unit....but it's not going to be quick. Slow wire feed, and highest heat setting will get you through the frame repair, but the welder will hit duty cycle quickly, and need to cool down often. For the amount of welding you need to do, it'll take a LONG time.

 

I think for the amount of welding I need to do, any welder will take a long time. I've never hit duty cycle on it though, there is a light, but its never come on. Also how can I draw a good bead when it just spatters around and makes little round balls of weld?

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You need to have a better ground, and make sure that the areas you're welding are VERY clean. Smaller welders, especially using flux core will not penetrate through rust/grease/grime. Other than that, slow movement, and good technique are what will get you through. I am no professional by any stretch, and still have laid some real sh!tty welds. However, if it happens, I grind them off, and run a new bead.

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You need to have a better ground, and make sure that the areas you're welding are VERY clean. Smaller welders, especially using flux core will not penetrate through rust/grease/grime. Other than that, slow movement, and good technique are what will get you through. I am no professional by any stretch, and still have laid some real sh!tty welds. However, if it happens, I grind them off, and run a new bead.

 

Yeah I was just practicing on some scrap steel, a lawnmower, and I guess it was probably because I didn't grind it down enough. I tack welded some braces on to my pathy frame with my friends 225amp lincoln arc welder so I could move it around the yard without the frame snapping, and it seems to penetrate well.

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Good Luck Red!

I bought another pathy from Cali to get a good frame, as my frame was Wisconsinized by the 10 kilos of salt per meter here in the winter(I even used metric terminology!)

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Yeah, im in canada, and every pathy ive looked at around here has frame rot, so what are ya gonna do. Might as well fix it. I think I'm going to practice my welds and get good, and then do my frame. I might buy another welder too, but the 70 amp one will have to do for now.

Edited by redfinder
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Yeah, I spent probably the hotest day of the year fixing my frame when I did it, so the duty cycle got me out of the heat and gave me an excuse to have a beer. I hate the duty cycle when I am 1/4" from the end of a bead and it kicks. Otherwise I kinda like my little welder, and won't bother buying a larger one unless I would go back into serious fabrications. When I was doing it before, the guy I was working with had the equipment. If I weld anything at work I tend to rent a welder (customer has to pay for it ;) ), one local place has a nice dual voltage stick/tig machine they charge $60/day for.

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