PATHY90 Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 hi i know i'll get flamed for this but i did search and can't find any info on buying exhaust studs for my 90 pathy. i was replacing my heads and now it's sitting again b/c i'm not sure if i finish putting everything back on that i'll be able to but the studs in. any advice would be great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 get them from nissan. Here are your part #'s 14065-V5004 - stud 14039-W1500 - nut 14037-F6610 - washer it cost me around $100 for 12 of each (I replaced all of my manifold studs with these new ones) They are supposedly stronger than the stock parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 (edited) get them from nissan. Here are your part #'s 14065-V5004 - stud 14039-W1500 - nut 14037-F6610 - washer it cost me around $100 for 12 of each (I replaced all of my manifold studs with these new ones) They are supposedly stronger than the stock parts. are these the Pathy OEM numbers or the ones for the 300Z? Edited June 25, 2007 by k9sar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATHY90 Posted June 25, 2007 Author Share Posted June 25, 2007 are these the Pathy OEM numbers or the ones for the 300Z? y u asking for the 300z? do the studs for the 300z fit the pathy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted June 25, 2007 Share Posted June 25, 2007 Yes I believe they are the 300zx studs. and PATHY90, you want to use these 300zx studs because they are stronger than the original jobs they put on these trucks. The 300zx and pathfinder share the same block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATHY90 Posted June 25, 2007 Author Share Posted June 25, 2007 Yes I believe they are the 300zx studs. and PATHY90, you want to use these 300zx studs because they are stronger than the original jobs they put on these trucks. The 300zx and pathfinder share the same block. i'm assuming it's the NA 300zx, nad not the turbo one.. right? also can't i just reuse the washers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRL69 Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 (edited) get them from nissan. Here are your part #'s 14065-V5004 - stud 14039-W1500 - nut 14037-F6610 - washer it cost me around $100 for 12 of each (I replaced all of my manifold studs with these new ones) They are supposedly stronger than the stock parts. In another same topic, I read the number part of washer is 14037-V5005. What is the correct number of this part, or, it is diferent to 93' Pathy? Regards, Edited June 26, 2007 by WRL69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msavides Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 In another same topic, I read the number part of washer is 14037-V5005. What is the correct number of this part, or, it is diferent to 93' Pathy?Regards, I used these in mine. Too bad they are now discontinued. Maybe with a little searching you could find someone who still has some stock. Mark http://www.ecklerscamaro.com/product.asp?d...mp;pf_id=718176 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spolar93 Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 14037-V5005 Lock Washer for manifold studs 1.88ea 14039-W1500 Nuts for manifold studs .65ea 14065-V5004 Manifold Studs 3.21ea or 8mm x 1.25 x 40mm (6) metric grade 5 8mm lock washers (12) metric grade 5 i used bolts instead of studs. i also know the guys at L&P used bolts instead of studs. bolts wont break in the engine head like studs will, theyll break right below the bolt head. the reason you get metric grade 5 instead of metric grade 8, is because the grade 5's metal make up is very close to the head's, so they expand and contract at about the same points. havent had a problem with mine, and dont expect to Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATHY90 Posted June 26, 2007 Author Share Posted June 26, 2007 14037-V5005 Lock Washer for manifold studs 1.88ea14039-W1500 Nuts for manifold studs .65ea 14065-V5004 Manifold Studs 3.21ea or 8mm x 1.25 x 40mm (6) metric grade 5 8mm lock washers (12) metric grade 5 i used bolts instead of studs. i also know the guys at L&P used bolts instead of studs. bolts wont break in the engine head like studs will, theyll break right below the bolt head. the reason you get metric grade 5 instead of metric grade 8, is because the grade 5's metal make up is very close to the head's, so they expand and contract at about the same points. havent had a problem with mine, and dont expect to any reason why you would want to use stainless steel?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spolar93 Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 i didnt use stainless steel. i guess i dont understand your question Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATHY90 Posted June 27, 2007 Author Share Posted June 27, 2007 you have any idea of what would happened if the bolts were stainless steel in stead of grade 5. i have access to stainless steel bolts but grade 5 i would have to order them in. so i was just curious as to what would happened if i used stainless steel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spolar93 Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 eh, since stainless is harder, im sure itd expand and contract differently. you should be able to find these at a hardware store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted June 29, 2007 Share Posted June 29, 2007 Stainless bolts are also going to be way more expensive. I'd go with new bolts and generic nuts and washers, personally. I tried using a stainless axle on my bike once, it was touted as "40% stronger than regular steel axles!" ...broke it on my first ride. I was pissed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATHY90 Posted June 29, 2007 Author Share Posted June 29, 2007 Stainless bolts are also going to be way more expensive. I'd go with new bolts and generic nuts and washers, personally. I tried using a stainless axle on my bike once, it was touted as "40% stronger than regular steel axles!" ...broke it on my first ride. I was pissed. well i found out the make up of stainless steel is stronger but the shear force of it is not a strong... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRL69 Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 14037-V5005 Lock Washer for manifold studs 1.88ea14039-W1500 Nuts for manifold studs .65ea 14065-V5004 Manifold Studs 3.21ea or 8mm x 1.25 x 40mm (6) metric grade 5 8mm lock washers (12) metric grade 5 i used bolts instead of studs. i also know the guys at L&P used bolts instead of studs. bolts wont break in the engine head like studs will, theyll break right below the bolt head. the reason you get metric grade 5 instead of metric grade 8, is because the grade 5's metal make up is very close to the head's, so they expand and contract at about the same points. havent had a problem with mine, and dont expect to I have to replace any gasket (number part; quantity) ? What is the proper proceure to do this important work in my Pathy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATHRIDER Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 (edited) Thanks for posting the bolt lenght and pitch spolar. Is that a typo for 6 bolts? isnt it twelve on there? Edited August 7, 2007 by PATHRIDER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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