PATHY90

So my dad starter motor craped out on him. It's a 2002 pathy 3.5 V6. i have replaced the starter on my 90 pathy. but have no clue on how to go about with this one. can any one help me? Please and thanks BTW i searched and all i find is older pathys info.

DAM. that just sux... now i have to think of a way do go around this...don't have the space and tool to remove the engine...

the hammer trick is used when the bushing are worn out and are not sticking so you have no concat therefore no power. using a hammer ur hoping to nudge it enouth to work.

understandable but i have no oil near the crank...so i'm ASSUMING it's the pump...BTW y dose the engine have to be taken out to remove the pump? i don't think it's cracked just needs to be reseal.

if the crankshaft seal was a fault wouldn't it be leakig from the front of the engine? instead of were it's leaking now?

so the end restult is i have no choice but to remove the engine to remoce the oil pump??? dam that sux

it looked like in between when i had her running.right at the joint. and she was leaking bad..usually about a quart a day driving about 40mile. i know it wasn't from the cam seals. i even cleaned it up to check again. and i was definatly from the joint.

well i finally got around taking that pic..it might not be the best but it's all i have to work with. from the pic i'm leaking oil from were the aluminum part is attached to the block.. just left of the PS bracket.. now if it's indeed the oil pump.. could this be done in the drive way or do you need some advance tools like a tranny jack, and things like that... thanks for any help.. oh and here is a pic of the two diffrent heads i replaced 1K ago..

sure i'll try to post one tomorrow

so how do i go about fixing this up. for reference. it's leaking on the passenger side. were the housing meets the block...i can see it very well throught the passenger wheel well. that is y i figured it the pump. if its the front seal then whoo is this done??

i just noticed today that my oil pump is leaking....this blows b/c i just finished doing my t-belt....i mean less then 1k miles ago.. so now i know i have to remove the t-belt again.... and then the crank pulley. to get to the bolts for the pump..also i have to remove the oil pan.. i'm worried about removing the oil pan since i'm not sure what is involved.. any one has any input on this...do i have to support anything or what's the deal... any help would be great..

lefty loosy righty tighty....so i'm crancking her to the left.

i can't really put on an old belt since i can't take out the harmonic balancer..so the lower cover is still on.

i'm more worried about the flywheel not the screw driver..

how strong are the teeth on the fly wheel. b/c i already broke one screw driver when i jammed the cam pulley

thanks for all the advice i removed the head today to get the water out and drain all the oil since it's milky. i didn't vlow the gasket to the water was coming out from the injetcors.. the heads are going to the machine shop. and i have to wait for my new bolts and gaskets...i have another problem thought i can't take out the crankshaft bolt i tryed sticking a screw driver into the cams but the crankpully just skips teeth.... any one has any advice on what to do...i toueqed the bolt to 65 ft/lb like it says....so i'm at a lost..

how would i crack a rod if i couldn't start the engine. but again with my luck. you never know... i'm just worried i could have hydro locked the engine...

well i took the fan off and removed the radiator and she spone by hand normally. so i decided to starther up for a split second with out coolent and she started to turning just didn't have enought gas to start.. so i figured every thing is ok put everything back same deal cranked one then no go...... to make a story short after f%$king around with it for 4 hours trying to go over ever detail. i noticed a water running down the bell housing.... well she had water coming out of the third injetctor. pulled the plug out all wet... turned her over and no prob... other then the waterfall i was getting from the third cylinder... turns out the head gasket i replaced new didn't hold. so i have a drowned cylinder.so now the question is can is can i remove the heads soak up the coolent. use the same gaskets(they were just installed), get new head bolts(i reused the old ones), and put everything back together. well i have to drain the oil now too...or is the engine a write off??

So i finished replacing both heads b/c of a torn cams.. i triple checked the timeing so as to there being no problems. i aligned the cams with the marking on the back cover and removed the #1 spark plug to find the compresion stroke. put my finger over the hole and cranked it till she was blowing. figured thats the compresion stroke. put a screw driver in the hole and slowly cranked it till it reached TDC plus the marking on the gear was a 5:30. put on the belt cranked her 8-10 times to she if she's going to be aligned. everything looked ok.. whith the only exception that i didn't have much resistance when i was turning her over... i was a bit concered but i figured everything is linded up so it should be ok. well finished all the rest of the misc. stuff and went to start her. nothing.... the started tries to turn but the engine wont start??? i took of the dizzy and it's pointing to the 2 cylinder...i know it was pointing to the first went i put it in. i marked were the first cylinder plug gose on the body and worked around that.. so know i'm thinking my timing is off??? or it's not gettting any fuel... i need help i need her started tomorrow. is there a give her fuel directily to the head.. if any one has any ideas that would be great. also if you have a suggestion give a brief description of how i can fix it... thanks a mill...

thanks for the help.

well i found out the make up of stainless steel is stronger but the shear force of it is not a strong...

no i just wanted the measurements of them but i think i'll go to the dealer and just pick up all the new bolts....sorry for all the confusion.

you have any idea of what would happened if the bolts were stainless steel in stead of grade 5. i have access to stainless steel bolts but grade 5 i would have to order them in. so i was just curious as to what would happened if i used stainless steel.

any reason why you would want to use stainless steel??

it's a dizzy.