zayas Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 I'm planning on installing my rear shocks this weekend. Wondered if someone had instructions on how to do. I didn't find any detail instructions in techinfo guide for rear shock replacement. I've done shocks before but was looking for anything that may help me avoid something stupid. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 It's super easy. Undo the mounting bolts holding the existing shocks in. Put the new shocks on the mounts. Tighten the bolts. Shouldn't take more than 10 minutes unless you've got a stuck bolt. Spray the nuts/bolts/mounts down with a generous dose of PB blaster for a few days before you do it. It helps to have air tools. Use a torque wrench to set the torque. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NismoSkyZ Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 If you dowload your manual here and you will see a section on rear suspension. Pretty self explanitory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WheelsofFortune Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 What type of document are those manuals in? I can't seem to open them. Also are these the manufacturer Service manuals? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 Those are .rar files. You'll need a program like winrar or another .rar extraction program. And yes, those are the FSM's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zayas Posted October 25, 2006 Author Share Posted October 25, 2006 I can't seem to find a free version of a .rar extraction program and don't want to fork over $30-40 for a copy. Anyone know of a free version? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zayas Posted October 25, 2006 Author Share Posted October 25, 2006 vengeful or whomever knows, Two question on installation. As I said it's been a while since I did my last shock change. The new shock comes compressed with a tie. I'm suppose to leave it compressed during installation, right? Now if the mounts don't line up with the height of the compressed shock am I suppose to lower the jack or place a jackstand under there to position it correctly? The new shocks didn't come with new bolts/washers. Is it ok to reuse them or buy new ones? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevs03pathy Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 Unless your bolts are pitted or worn I would use them again. Just pull the ties off and let them extend.You can move the shock up or down by hand to line them up. Install the top first and then push the bottem up to line it up or pull it down if that is what you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmorgan4 Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 Depends what kind of shock you went with, but I think most of them stay in the position you leave them in, and not full extend if you cut the tie off. If you're just replacing the shocks there's no need to even jack the rear up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted October 26, 2006 Share Posted October 26, 2006 Compress the shock by hand to get it on. Unless you're female, I suppose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morpheus Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 I'm planning on installing my rear shocks this weekend. Wondered if someone had instructions on how to do. I didn't find any detail instructions in techinfo guide for rear shock replacement. I've done shocks before but was looking for anything that may help me avoid something stupid. Thanks. I realize I'm bringing back an old thread to life, however I couldn't help but notice.... no-one mentioned putting a jack under the differential before taking the shock bolts out.... pretty important step if anyone's reading this in the future for instructions. The only exception to this is if you're leaving the truck sitting on it's wheels on the ground. If the rear tires are off the ground, use the support jack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 When I did them on my dads 2000, I jacked up the rear and put 2 jack stands on the rear axle. Then just installed the shocks and presto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morpheus Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 When I did them on my dads 2000, I jacked up the rear and put 2 jack stands on the rear axle. Then just installed the shocks and presto. Yep. The jack stands supported the axle. If you had the jack stands on say the control arm boxes, or on the body and removed the shock bolts, the rear diff would fall several inches possibly inujuring the installer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 (edited) Probably the reason nobody has mentioned putting a jack under the rear axle when removing the shock bolts is that it's unnecessary to jack up the rear and/or remove the rear wheels when replacing the shocks (unless perhaps your gut needs more clearance)... Edited July 24, 2008 by XPLORx4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 Probably the reason nobody has mentioned putting a jack under the rear axle when removing the shock bolts is that it's unnecessary to jack up the rear and/or remove the rear wheels when replacing the shocks (unless perhaps your gut needs more clearance)... I'm no fatty, I had never done it before, but it was no big deal to take the tires off, good opportunity to check the brakes and rotate the tires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morpheus Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 Probably the reason nobody has mentioned putting a jack under the rear axle when removing the shock bolts is that it's unnecessary to jack up the rear and/or remove the rear wheels when replacing the shocks (unless perhaps your gut needs more clearance)... I've got 5 hoists at my disposal. My motto is "I don't work outside in the cold and I don't work on the ground when I can lift it above my head" And my gut would need the clearance... lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezzy Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 SPOILED! SPOILED! SPOILED!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 I've got 5 hoists at my disposal. My motto is "I don't work outside in the cold and I don't work on the ground when I can lift it above my head" And my gut would need the clearance... lol. Aha!, now I understand your point of view and why you removed the tires! It's probably better to work on the rear suspension on an alignment lift instead of a 2-post lift, since with a 2-post lift the rear suspension unloads completely, which would explain why supporting the diff is a good idea, except in this case, you'd need a transmission jack. Using a lift in which the tires are still supported is probably better for that type of work, so that a tranny jack isn't needed and the diff doesn't drop and potentially damage the brake line or diff breather. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now