FUELER

damn xplorx is lurkin! How you been, man? Yeah the lower pic is the venturi. Thats what you see when you take the filter off.

unfortunately, AEM doesnt make anything for the 96-04 Pathfinder.

ahh the fender flares... you should see my setup. Even dremeled/hollowed out, the tire still hits on flex. I cut out the (upper) inside brackets that secure the flares, so to hold the flares i only use the white plastic push pins that go into the quarter panel. So instead of being permanently mounted, you can grab my flares and pop them out. So what happens on the trail, when i flex, the flares go *POP* and suddenly its sticking out like 2 inches, and im good to offroad as long as i want. The flares still have brackets on the bottom so they dont fall off. Then when im back in the city, all i have to do is pop them back in place and it looks like a QX4 again until the next time i go offroading. of course this wasnt my original intention but i love the results. Instant tire clearance!

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/customer_part_detail.asp?PartID=364 "Your new POP-Charger is the most efficient air intake system available. By adhering to ideal venturi theory, a 4:1 convergent area and a modified parabolic profile maintain a near linear air velocity along the entire venturi surface. Interestingly, it is the POP-Chargers aluminum venturi that accounts for the largest performance gain; the filter element itself is designed simply to not adversely affect this venturi." So, what i call a velocity stack, they call a venturi.

theres also the jim wolf technology pop charger (what i have) its not a full blown intake but its a K&N filter with a really nice velocity stack underneath. about $130.

for the NGK's, i'd stick with the factory recommended NGK FR5AP-10 they are platinum tipped and good for at least 60k (according to nissan maintenance schedule) for the AC condensor, i put a cheap no-name brand in and it's been holding up great for the last 4 years. It still looks new when you look through the grille. What i did though, is put black chicken wire in the grille to stop rocks, which is what punctured my first AC condensor.

bad ass. got any pics of the rear tire tucking?

id suggest getting a wider rim than stock, and getting floatation sizing like edwin mentioned.... as wide of a tire as possible im a fan of the BFG AT...

PS nice photo. Looks like fun!!

ive been pulled by the rear axle before with no ill effects. but since then, ive gotten a rear hitch and have a special tow hook on it.

drive it on the freeway, see if it wiggles side to side. The rear suspension bushings are a somewhat common problem.

let me know if you want another test dummy. It just rained in SD i wonder if snowed in Bear. Was in Holcomb Valley mid-March and the snow was ridiculous, locker mandatory!!

i dont think this ever happened. correct me if im wrong

im loving the lift... hey whats up with the rear fender flare... you trim it or something?

yeah my highschool girlfriend had those tail lights 10 years ago so ever since then i just feel like rice lights are for girls and people stuck in 1999 but the lift is so bad ass it makes you look right past the tail lights...

that looks bad ass!!! (except for the tail lights of course but who cares)

ARB springs $75 ea http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/pathfinder-suspension-c-38_593.html?osCsid=su2od898uabd3pbs57ah8m20s4

nice writeup! youve inspired me to do the same. How do you get the studs out??

HOLY.... that is AWFUL! Thank god for southern california weather !!

its done and the WD is gone from my drivweay!! I want to thank everybody here for all the great advice and help!! The only problem, was that i indexed the anchor arm too low.... so now the anchor arm kinda sticks out from under the crossmember, by about 3/4 of an inch. Well he doesn't rock crawl, and i was working for free, so we left it like that, shouldn't be a problem. THANKS AGAIN ALL YOU GUYS I REALLY APPRECIATE IT!!!

ya make sure the contacts are clean and touching eachother. There are contacts from the bulb base to the printed circuit board, and there are contacts inside the bulb base for the lite bulb. Do not replace with LED if you think they will last longer - they won't. I bought LED's with lifetime warranty and ive had three go out already. They usually start to blink and flicker and then they fail completely. Not worth it.

Check a trailer supply - i think i paid about 200 or so for my hitch brand new, and the install was free. Might be worth it instead of spending all that time and gas for a used one, and then installing it yourself... They just had some worker dude bolt it up, he did it by himself, didnt have to remove the bumper. But he did have to remove the stock tow hook brackets (the tow hitch goes in its place) its just three big bolts on each side.

does it matter whether im cranking the nut on top or the bolt on bottom? (i plan on cranking the bolt with a 19mm socket) with a 19mm wrench holding the nut on top. Sorry for the dumb questions.