magregor

Vacuum Leaks: There are a number of ways to find that pesky vacuum leak but the one I have used in the past to find a small cracked vacuum hose or missing connection after doing engine work is to take a propane torch (don't light it!), start the engine and turn on the propane and slowly move it around the connections, etc and when you hear the engine slightly rev or idle up, you are very close to the leak. (The propane gets sucked into the vacuum leak and in turn revs the engine).

I was basically panicking to get it fixed for inspection...but I took it to another shop and they "overlooked it" and passed the truck...hmm, I don't think I have the dash switch that you are talking about? I took the switch apart first to troubleshoot it and the switch is fine, but the lead wire was only showing 10.9 millivolts...I think the relay is probably bad or something...

I do agree with you oldslowreliable...a nice set of tires, maybe a 2 inch lift, some extra armor...then a few hundred bucks for a winch. I guess it is what is important first...

They are actually pretty cool, if controlled... Airbag Recovery link

I gotta say, It was fun though! Just about to give up on the come-a-long when this teenager came in with an 'ol jeep (hate to say it) and yanked me out (popular trail in my town). It paid off, as he got stuck ahead of me on the trail and I had to pull him out Me pulling Jeep out

Don't back up ACROSS ruts and don't go alone! Doesn't look too bad, but when all you brought was a come-a-long and 2 kids because your buddies backed out last minute (not mentioning any names Adamzan! ) I thought I would just "check out" an old trail I went in before with a friend of mine and didn't get stuck because he had a winch!

I suppose you could just use a cheap 'ol emergency pump that plugs into your cig lighter for tires to refill the tank as well! That would save some sort of compressor hook-up...

I like "Mud Out"

main reason is for heat and noise insulation...There are theories that it is also for fire suppression...if an engine fire occurs, the plastic clips melt, allowing for the "hood insulator" to fall on the engine, assisting in the smothering of the fire. If it were me, I would just take it out...if my engine caught on fire, a mat isn't going to save the harness and other valuable parts from melting away... :02:

I think this is what Adam was quoting...

Soooo, I put a set of R50 rims on my Pathy and just recently discovered this grinding noise in the front end when I turn the wheels sharp either way...I found out that the inside flange of the rim is rubbing on the tie rod end...Any recommended sites or ideas to bring the offset out about 1/2" or more?

That is AWESOME!!! Imagine blowing that at an old lady/man on the highway! It would scare the hell outa them! If you had a safari rack, you could mount it to the side of it, like below a shovel or high-boy...

You had mentioned the other night when you were over that they usually are really good at their work and standing by it...I guess this is gonna tell you whether or not that is really true...

keep the hold-down clips for the hood insulator, as in the future, you stumble across an alternative, you have the fasteners

Before dropping the pan, pull the dipstick and check the color and smell of the tranny fluid...if it warrants a flush, drop pan and proceed...as the pan isn't the easiest to drop and check for chunks... :02:

rip'er out

With mine, I just get the 'ol cheap aftermarket stuff like TKW or Wagner, etc...My thoughts are..."they are a heck of alot better than what came out and easier to change if they break, as I just recently put them in!

X2 here...Adjustable links would also be good help to bring your axle back to the proper alignment as well. It does look nice a nice project though! Personally, buying something that is "out of the box" is less fun than buying something that needs a bit of playing around with...regardless of whether it is a Pathy or whatever!

Bring it over Adam and we can stick a light on it to see if the timing is ok...but yup, I would take it back...the Cats wouldn't clog while they were replacing the belt! I think that is a cop out on their part!

So I went for the...Inspection...was gonna throw in a few 4 letter words, but decided to wait. There were a few things to fix that I overlooked...One of them was the Neutral Safety switch...(well, I always push in the clutch before I start it anyways, so had no idea it didn't work!)...I checked the switch for continuity...it's fine...so I checked the voltage on the plug...10.9 mv...yes, millivolts! Before I start tearing apart the harness to chase these 2 wires...anyone have/had similar issues?

Here is what I would start with: Dropped Pitman Arm Dropped Pitman Arm#2

The ones that were on my black '95 mounted to the front body mount bolts and the rear had a plate that went inside the 4-link pivot attached to the frame. I would have to agree with Adam on that one.

There are some nasty angles on the steering linkage! You might want to modify the pitman arm with an aftermarket dropped one...That would be my first try...

Re-drill is a good idea, as mine have twisted off and had to do the same. Those small 6 mm bolts don't hold up to the elements and such...well, I suppose if you use anti-seize...I just stuck my foot in my mouth!

umm...could be