magregor

When you really look at leaf suspension, it isn't the leaves doing the flexing, it is the scissor shackles...I like the coils as well

hee hee, you a funny guy! I guess me need some grammar edumacation!

How would you get the pipe wrench in there to get at the nut???

if you have steel wheels and a lot of room, but for guys who have alloys and the nut is nicely tucked in those holes....

Things look great through rose colored glasses dude...I have had that experience in the past, where I got a rig, had big plans and BLAM...Mookie says it all by the "nickel and dime" issue...Always allow for about 40-50% allowance for the unknown when going into a project like this one...

Let's just call it the "magregor seal installation tool"

HydroWrap! That's what their called! Thanks dude!!

I have a mig welder, but for the people who don't have one, I was in the commercial tire industry for 12 years and had the "special tool"...It works very well to just pound on a socket and turn off with a cheater bar. BUT, yes, Terrano1992, that is also a very good solution as well.

I would definitely try seal first, since you have the tear-down and putting back together down to a science I believe it was just the seal being the issue. It doesn't take much for the oil to find a spot to bleed out, as it runs at about 40-50 psi in pressure...

I had the same problem with mine. I just took a sledge, a 19 mm or 3/4 Deep impact socket and pounded it on the lock nut (impact socket won't split from pounding) then a 1/2" cheater bar and Pesto!

I was involved in that fiasco when I was a shop foreman for Bridgestone/Firestone Canada. The tire manufacturer didn't accept blame, but decided to pay out. I had to take all the Firestone Wilderness ATs and cut a 10" slit in the sidewall and anyone who owned a Ford Explorer came in and I had to put on a new set of Bridgestone tires as a replacement. The main reason in the end (and Ford quietly changed the badging) was that on the Ford Explorer's tire pressure badge, it stated that this vehicle, weighing in at around 4000 lbs, to have an inflation of 26 psi in the tires! The tires would obviously get hot due to friction on the sidewall from the tire being HALF FLAT! The tire would eventually fail (more apparent in hotter climate) and the truck would ROLL OVER. Ford quietly decided to change the operating tire pressure to 35 psi on the new Explorer...hmm...that didn't make the news...

This "no money" thing must be contagious!!! Gotta find a cure soon too!

Congrats Jim and Thanks for creating this Awesome forum. Guys, I have some spare parts that are kicking around in my garage...Not sure what is needed, but if there is a soft copy of the list of stuff needed, I could pick through it and PM back whoever to arrange for it to be shipped?

Dual filter? Auto I assume? I would love to relocate the oil filter for sure...gotta get that frame and fuel rail done first I guess...Once all the major stuff is done, I would like to get a clino for the dash, a relocation kit and fab up a snorkel for it as well (not sure if I would bury the 'ol girl in that much water), but would be a fun project!

I think that the factory amps in our trucks (although they are Clarion Amps) are only about 30 watts/channel...at least that was the wattage of the one I saw in both of my pathys that was located in the passenger rear quarter...not sure about the other amp (as I am told there are 2)

That is the best "muck" kicking around my neck of the woods! (other than Stella Artois or Sleeman)

Mine was the same way after I changed the sludge that was at one time oil! I couldn't believe how much HP I gained (also stuck in a K&N filter)...While changing the oil pan, I noticed that the oil probably hasn't been changed in a dog's age! ( I just got the truck about 2 months ago from "JUDGE"), he was fixing it up and I bought it off of him and am continuing where he left off...He never drove the truck, just bought it to fix up and found another one to play with instead...SO, long story short, it hasn't had an oil change in over a year! I had a hell of a time getting the oil filter off! It didn't look much like a filter when I was done with it! I have probably put a whole 30 miles on it since I got it too...

I was removing my gas tank (to repair frame) and when I was taking clamps off the fuel lines...the fuel lines (steel ones) crumbled in my hands...I am just asking for suggestions as to what to use to replace the entire fuel rail from tank to filter....I was thinking either high pressure hose, or soft copper tubing...Suggestions?

When I am done repairing my frame, I will be pumping the inner part of the frame with used motor oil! It is a MESSY job, but well worth it!

It could be the brass bushing for the oil pump gear...good call Adam...Makes sense

I checked the Nissan FSM and the Haynes manual, but couldn't find anything either...even combed Google Images as well...The "front" of the seal is the opposite side of the seal that has the spring or open end. that is the side that you don't want exposed to the elements. The only thing I can think of is that the brass or copper ring behind the seal is the only "barrier" between the seal and the oil pump gear. It could also be a shim to adjust the end play in the oil pump gear as well. I wouldn't worry about it, unless you want to pull the pump off to inspect it. BUT, that would involve taking out the oil pan, which you had clearly stated that you wouldn't do yourself...I would suggest to put in the new seal carefully with the method I suggested and give it one last try....I have faith that installing the new seal in with the plastic barrier to get it over the lip (put a skim of grease on the seal surface to help it slide on easy) will solve the leak. In the FSM, it also suggested using a big flat washer and a deep socket that would fit over the crankshaft and tap the seal in that way. It will slide in square and flush using that method as well.

I checked both manuals and can't find anything about the brass ring behind the seal...I think it is there just for a backing and smooth surface for the seal to but against??? Scratching head... Anyone else have any ideas?

I am just checking the manual to see what the brass ring is for Doc...stand by

Correct me if I am wrong...I have heard rumors that from late 93-96, Nissan switched steel suppliers which they used to fabricate the frames and that the steel was a different balance of alloys, which in turn, made them more susceptible to oxidizing more quickly if not protected right off the lot... Is this true? Any takers on this?

I did that actually to both of my Pathys...When I got them, they were plugged over half full of rust flakes and silt. Drove the truck up on ramps, took front bumper off and used pressure washer (0 degrees nozzle) on my first pathy, and this one I just used the pressure washer in all the access holes, like you said, and kept washing it to the back end where the frame was open for the rear bumper. I got a gallon of rust/silt per side!!! I am favor to C-channel frame myself, but that is the only flaw of the pathfinder in my opinion. If the frame had larger access holes for silt and other debris to drain more freely, I would be more confident.