magregor

swappin the oil pan and it didn't have a gasket in it...wasn't planning on putting one in, but between gasket maker and having to put RTV silicone in the 4 points on the front and rear seals...should I just give in and by the gasket to eliminate the possibility of another 4 hour job of resealing the pan?

Main Bearing Cap bolts - 67-74 ft-lbs Connecting Rod Caps Step 1 - 10-12 ft lbs. Step 2 - 28-33 ft lbs (with conventional torque wrench) ***This was pulled from the Haynes Manual*** Anyone is welcome to dispute the specs, as I don't have the PDF Service manual on this laptop...

Sorry "Oxidize" to be grammatically correct

Personally, I don't think removing the heat shield will help in performance, it will just allow the exhaust manifolds to dissipate heat better than a rusty ol' aluminum plate rattling around. When the heat shields are new, they perform well, but when they get older and lose their heat dissipating qualities and end up just causing grief... SO, before you go crazy yanking off the heat shields on your civic to help boost performance...you might want to reconsider the reason why you're going through all that effort to gain 0 HP...

10 bucks for a nice chrome tip at Canadian Tire :-) http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Au...haust%2BTip.jsp

I live in Quebec because I have 4 boys and the only asset here is the social programs and benefits of having children. Other than that, I would rather live in Ottawa. I don't think that going through all that crap of jacking and propping is worth adding the additional 1/2" back on.

So, my Pathy is finally done, I took it down to the inspection station to get it done...WELL, they took out the tape measure, measured the tires, the height and said I had to take the lift kit out! ummmm, NOT! So, I went home, fixed a couple things (door pins and bushings, small hole in rear quarter and license plate lights...no big deal...then I swapped my 33's for a new set of 31's. I go there and they said I was still over height. I blew up! in the end, the manager said if I cut 1/2" off the 2" lift blocks, he would pass it...I was NOT happy, but I swallowed it and went home. I took all the lift blocks and cut 1/2" off them and put it back together. I go there and FOUR mechanics argued over the distance between the chassis mount and the cab mount. I FINALLY got approved (but someone got in trouble)...But it now is all road legal. Word of advice...don't mod your Pathy in Quebec until AFTER you get inspection!

What happened was I had put new seals in that side and when I put the bearing in, I should have either taken the other side apart to get an idea on how much play should be in the bearing, or look at the manual...So, I tapped the bearing in, locked it down, but didn't leave any end-play and it only took about 30 km and it sounded like my hold down pins in my brakes let go at first...the truck dragged to a stop...At that time, it was still in one piece. I turned the truck around after i figured things cooled down enough, as I was only 3 km from home...well, the next thing I saw was my wheel creeping out! there was nothing left of the bearing or the hub! The backing plate was still intact, but the bearing got chewed so bad, it let the axle pass through the hub, thus letting the axle pull out. I added one more pic on my link above.

I replaced axle bearing and both seals...everything seemed to be working fine until...well, i almost saw my wheel/axle roll past me. Hope not to experience that again!!!

I did mine by myself...well, Adamzan helped me drop it on the frame...literally :-). Had some issues lining up rear bolts, but the body was 3' off frame for 4 months while I rebuilt frame, etc. No issues with steering...I just loosened both top nd bottom splines and split the difference between the 2.

Wow...I never thought I would get this Pathy on its wheels again! First time it has been running since Nov, '08 and it took off after 3 revolutions on the starter!!! Lift kit is in and almost all the body work is finished. I even vacuumed out the interior! :-) Adamzan came down and helped me lower the body (not a gentle project) onto the frame after 4 months of sitting 3 ft. on stilts! Let's just say there was some scary moments when the body decided to drop about 6" before it came to a halt on some makeshift blocks! Just some fab work on tube bumpers and a few little things and it is off to the inspection station to see if it will see a summer of playin' in the trails! Thanks Adamzan, Steph and other members of the forum for all the help and extra parts! A few pics... http://s666.photobucket.com/albums/vv21/magregor/

Oh...I didn't know he was talking about an R50...

I will put a piece of 2X4 between the axle and my vicious strikes and pray I don't damage the splines :-)

Picked up the seal today...17 bucks at NAPA...I have the axle out and there was no problems. I haven't changed the seal yet, but I want to take time and clean up the surfaces really well so the shim/gasket doesn't leak after all that work of taking it apart. NOW...stupid question...I see a rubber seal in the axle housing, but there must be one on the outside to seal the bearings...I figured the one I need to change is on the outside of the bearing and not the one in the axle tube...I set the axle upright (studs facing down) on a couple of blocks, took the locking washer/retainer nut off the axle and took a dead blow hammer to try and pound the bearing race out of the axle...not moving very nice! Is this the right way to go about getting the axle off the bearing race??

I think most of the guys here would suggest coils from a Jeep Grand Cherokee with the V8...They would add decent lift and just crank up the torsion bars in the front and you're good to go. Just watch the front Ball Joints due to the change in angle on the front upper control arms if you crank the torsion bars up too much. Correct me if I'm wrong guys

After 4 kids, she is...well ya know... :)Need I get into detail...

Sweet, Thanks Precise1 I will head to the stealer tomorrow and grab one while I'm out getting sheet metal to fix the cancer in the floor...

90% of the work is already done...Rear end is out and sitting on the spare tire and ready to pull the axle

I think Adamzan offered to help beat up some knuckles this weekend, so I will post how it goes after the fact

It means she wouldn't have to put out!

She would encourage it!!!

thanks...I did a search after I posted as well and...yup...30 seconds

I also found at Jegs that you can get the lifting blocks individually for $7.99...So if you get just the blocks and buy the bolts at the hardware store, it may be just as cheap...I guess if you have a welder and can fab the brackets and such. I even checked out a business online that would turn some lift blocks out of Nylon or Neoprene on a lathe possibly even cheaper than the individual ones at Jegs and it is local. Still poking around, as I have to keep this project "under the wife's radar"

Umm, what is the going price for an axle seal? Any idea?

Hey no worries, I guess I never posted that I was rebuilding the frame