magregor

I had the same problem with mine. I just took a sledge, a 19 mm or 3/4 Deep impact socket and pounded it on the lock nut (impact socket won't split from pounding) then a 1/2" cheater bar and Pesto!

I was involved in that fiasco when I was a shop foreman for Bridgestone/Firestone Canada. The tire manufacturer didn't accept blame, but decided to pay out. I had to take all the Firestone Wilderness ATs and cut a 10" slit in the sidewall and anyone who owned a Ford Explorer came in and I had to put on a new set of Bridgestone tires as a replacement. The main reason in the end (and Ford quietly changed the badging) was that on the Ford Explorer's tire pressure badge, it stated that this vehicle, weighing in at around 4000 lbs, to have an inflation of 26 psi in the tires! The tires would obviously get hot due to friction on the sidewall from the tire being HALF FLAT! The tire would eventually fail (more apparent in hotter climate) and the truck would ROLL OVER. Ford quietly decided to change the operating tire pressure to 35 psi on the new Explorer...hmm...that didn't make the news...

This "no money" thing must be contagious!!! Gotta find a cure soon too!

Congrats Jim and Thanks for creating this Awesome forum. Guys, I have some spare parts that are kicking around in my garage...Not sure what is needed, but if there is a soft copy of the list of stuff needed, I could pick through it and PM back whoever to arrange for it to be shipped?

Dual filter? Auto I assume? I would love to relocate the oil filter for sure...gotta get that frame and fuel rail done first I guess...Once all the major stuff is done, I would like to get a clino for the dash, a relocation kit and fab up a snorkel for it as well (not sure if I would bury the 'ol girl in that much water), but would be a fun project!

Welcome to the NPORA Family Rydsno! There are a lot of great guys and gals here that are a post away from anything you need!

I think that the factory amps in our trucks (although they are Clarion Amps) are only about 30 watts/channel...at least that was the wattage of the one I saw in both of my pathys that was located in the passenger rear quarter...not sure about the other amp (as I am told there are 2)

That is the best "muck" kicking around my neck of the woods! (other than Stella Artois or Sleeman)

Mine was the same way after I changed the sludge that was at one time oil! I couldn't believe how much HP I gained (also stuck in a K&N filter)...While changing the oil pan, I noticed that the oil probably hasn't been changed in a dog's age! ( I just got the truck about 2 months ago from "JUDGE"), he was fixing it up and I bought it off of him and am continuing where he left off...He never drove the truck, just bought it to fix up and found another one to play with instead...SO, long story short, it hasn't had an oil change in over a year! I had a hell of a time getting the oil filter off! It didn't look much like a filter when I was done with it! I have probably put a whole 30 miles on it since I got it too...

I was removing my gas tank (to repair frame) and when I was taking clamps off the fuel lines...the fuel lines (steel ones) crumbled in my hands...I am just asking for suggestions as to what to use to replace the entire fuel rail from tank to filter....I was thinking either high pressure hose, or soft copper tubing...Suggestions?

When I am done repairing my frame, I will be pumping the inner part of the frame with used motor oil! It is a MESSY job, but well worth it!

It could be the brass bushing for the oil pump gear...good call Adam...Makes sense

I checked the Nissan FSM and the Haynes manual, but couldn't find anything either...even combed Google Images as well...The "front" of the seal is the opposite side of the seal that has the spring or open end. that is the side that you don't want exposed to the elements. The only thing I can think of is that the brass or copper ring behind the seal is the only "barrier" between the seal and the oil pump gear. It could also be a shim to adjust the end play in the oil pump gear as well. I wouldn't worry about it, unless you want to pull the pump off to inspect it. BUT, that would involve taking out the oil pan, which you had clearly stated that you wouldn't do yourself...I would suggest to put in the new seal carefully with the method I suggested and give it one last try....I have faith that installing the new seal in with the plastic barrier to get it over the lip (put a skim of grease on the seal surface to help it slide on easy) will solve the leak. In the FSM, it also suggested using a big flat washer and a deep socket that would fit over the crankshaft and tap the seal in that way. It will slide in square and flush using that method as well.

I checked both manuals and can't find anything about the brass ring behind the seal...I think it is there just for a backing and smooth surface for the seal to but against??? Scratching head... Anyone else have any ideas?

I am just checking the manual to see what the brass ring is for Doc...stand by

Correct me if I am wrong...I have heard rumors that from late 93-96, Nissan switched steel suppliers which they used to fabricate the frames and that the steel was a different balance of alloys, which in turn, made them more susceptible to oxidizing more quickly if not protected right off the lot... Is this true? Any takers on this?

I did that actually to both of my Pathys...When I got them, they were plugged over half full of rust flakes and silt. Drove the truck up on ramps, took front bumper off and used pressure washer (0 degrees nozzle) on my first pathy, and this one I just used the pressure washer in all the access holes, like you said, and kept washing it to the back end where the frame was open for the rear bumper. I got a gallon of rust/silt per side!!! I am favor to C-channel frame myself, but that is the only flaw of the pathfinder in my opinion. If the frame had larger access holes for silt and other debris to drain more freely, I would be more confident.

Sounds nice!

I finished putting my gas tank back together...had to wire brush grind the entire tank, solder on a new vent pipe, resealed the sending unit...chipped all the rust off the ass end of the frame, found a few holes.......ahh well...so, dropped the exhaust, stripped rear frame, ground and sprayed some weld-through primer...off to the metal scrap yard to pick up some steel to fix the @#%$ frame... THAT was my day

20 bucks for a wire harness adapter at Canadian Tire

It's easy to "undercoat" a frame, but the design of a "boxed frame" is a poor design right from the get-go...It is more difficult to maintain the inner part of the frame and keep it from rusting from the inside out. Most certainly climate and road maintenance is a large contributor to how vehicles rust... As for this lawsuit? Well, I can't believe this woman would go after a car manufacturer with a 14 year old vehicle! I agree with Jeenyus on this one...

I think that even though the thread is long, that may mean that there is a lot of interest in how to troubleshoot issues as they come...I think you are doing a fantastic job and I think I can speak for all who have viewed/replied to this thread...I enjoy monitoring your progress/regress all through this project! Keep it up Doc! Is all I have to say!

I saw something in one of your pics doc...maybe this is where the coolant is coming from? If you look at the pic that has the bottom edge of the water pump in it (second pic), it seeems wet along there...see if you can squeeze down there and look at the bottom edge of the waterpump...

If you look at all the pics posted...it isn't the leafs flexing, it is the links that support the leafs. If you do it up right with leaf springs (adding long, well-pivoting links) your suspension will flex well. Coils just compress and decompress...the lighter the wire gauge, the more coils in the design and if you throw in variable rate, you will have a better, softer flex than leafs...just my 2 cents worth..

the soundfx has a dual out tailpipe dude...yours is single