Slick

amen to that. i agree.

mm.. unless these are a real bargain..... i would be hesitant to put anything that has had the center altered on my truck.. but then again.. i wheel my pathy ... i have chevy rims on my pathy..... you can see where mine stick out to -bounce- (just look at my sig)

right here...... (the long thin bar running horizontal to the body/frame) ..see the 2 black "poles" at the bottom of the pic? coming "towards you"? those are the torsion bars

launches grenade....... J/K..... yeah, a wire disconnected on these trucks can cause a boat load of problems.... let us know how she goes

:o and yet he STILL drives it????? WTF? well. are the plug wires in the right order? how about plug gaps? how about any loose wires or missing ground wires? (i there are 4 of em on my pathy) have you checked ALL connections? how about codes on the ECU? my check engine light doesn't work either, but i go to the ECU when she's not running right. start there n let me know

here's my headers when i took them off earlier this year.... this is the driver side i just went with a high flow cat... $50 from my local muffler shop and a flowmaster 50 series....

ah well hell.. kragens still sell those....... find someone who has taken off their rear sway bars and see if you can't buy the parts from a member.....

check to make sure they didn't fry a wire down below or knock one loose

is this what broke? http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail....type=78&ptset=A

i say whole. most folks want body parts as well as suspension/frame

cool find! can't wait to see the upgrades/mods n cool stuff added! :cool2:

kragen. if i had enuff $$ on ym card ida got the buggers..... they fit nicely between the tubes of my smitty

i am broke so i just have the JGC coil upgrade with rancho rs5000 shocks. L & P make a very good steering upggrade for less than calminis.

**** this wiring method is for 87-95 Pathfinders**** (I haven't checked the harness for post 95's yet) ok. so, as most of you know, I install hitches and wiring for U Haul for a living. (*update: now I am the manager of this u haul center* :tonguefinger: ) I have had several emails and pm's asking about what wires are what and how to install wiring for hitches... so, using a relatively std u haul wiring harness (#13486) here's a run down of what's what. **NOTE: I do NOT use those retarded connectors you get in the kit, I find them USELESS... I prefer to make sure I have the best possible connection so I tap direct into the wire itself. ALSO! after you've got yer wires connected, don't forget to go back and put some electrical tape over the whole wiring harness. STEP 1 Remove "cover from rear panel on drivers side, and expose wires... make sure you are in the harness that goes to the tail light. (see pic) It has a little pop out clip holding it to the side against the body. Pop that out so you have easier access. I know I poked hella holes in the wires, our tester SUCKS and I wanted to know hwat EVERY wire did in there while I was in there.... anyhoo.... here's the rundown on the drivers side: ** put a piece of electrical tape over each connection before moving on to the next wire if you use my "direct tap" method** the green & yellow wire is the brake light wire the pink & blue wire is the driving lights (ya know..when you have yer headlights on...) the gray & blue wire is the left turn signal. *the box on the harness will tell you what wire is what... so it's VERY straightforward and almost impossible to go wrong.. unless yer color blind STEP 2 cruise on over to the passenger side, remove panel, and the green wire from the harness has to run over to the passenger side. you'll notice it's longer than any other wire.... that's why.... the wire for the passenger turn signal is the gray & red wire. *i ran the green wire for the pass side under the panel that runs along by the tailgate. no need to remove it. i got my finger under there enuff to lift it a bit to poke the wire under. remember!!!!! when you have all your wires connected, TO GROUND THE WHITE GROUND WIRE!!!!!!! uber important!! ground it to an existing screw or bolt, I used a screw right above where the box is, it is screwed through a metal plate to the body, uber good ground and neat and tidy also. (you can just see a bit of it above the box where that bright shiney screw is).. it is between the plate and the body. i just wrapped it around the screw and BAM.. screwed the screw back in. Now...... I actually did this BEFORE i installed the wires. If you reach down in that fender well on the driver side, you will feel a rubber grommet, just push it through and grab yer plug in end of your harness and run it on through. Easy and you'll see where it comes down. Pop yer grommet back snug in place when you've got it through. From where I have the harness run over my frame, I got electrical tape and taped the WHOLE THING all the way down to the connector. Adds insulation and helps prevent damage to the wires and keeps it nice looking. Here's a few pics of the hitch and the way it's installed ( it hangs too low for my liking and will be "modified" this winter) sly My hitch is a class 3, up to 3500lbs, or 5,000 with a laod leveller. 2" receiver. The hitch on the ground is a class 2 hitch, also 3500lbs.... (not to exceed that) with a 1.5" receiver. The class 3 has 3 bolts each side, with 1 bolt hole each side having to be drilled. the class 2 is 2 bolts each side, and a direct bolt on. :contract:

check yer state laws on running fuel cells as well..... ie: placement/pump locations etc..... are you planning on running it in the stock location?

mine won't come apart cuz i installed everything on the boat trailer too

i say make them give you your money back for the rear shockls and also buy you new calminis.

:bow: amen to all the above -bounce-

ditto

on a lot of the vehicles i install hitches/wiring on i leave the wiring inside as i KNOW they will not be using it very often, some peeps request it, sometimes they don't but if i think they're gunna use it a lot then i run it outside......... without a cover to protect it, as above, it will be dead in 1 -2 winters... they do not age well.

well.. it's stamped right on the class II hitch in my shed.. 3500lbs and the pathy isn't the only vehicle that has Cl II & III hitches with the same load rating...... same size.. just receivers are smaller/bigger......... weeeeeeeeeeeeeird and if the boat rips it off i can sue u haul sly

sweet jesus. the rods don't knock on the pan? i put a dent half that size in my jeep and you'd think it was about to blow..... and an even smaller dent than that in a chevy 350 and it made the same noise...... wow. i am impressed. and yes, i agree...... it still takes the same amount of oil regardless of dent.

glad ya got 'er goin again

wow! thanks for all your investigating. Well, I want to use the actual hitch i have, but want to somehow remove my bumper and put the hitch (complete with some obvious mods needed) in its place so it sits higher. the bumper is worthless anyway, i have the brand new hitch and so.. that's my idea..... I will have to check out the class III hitch i have coming in, right now all we have is a class II with a 1 1/4" receiver, the cl 3 i have comin is 2" receiver sly funny enuff....they haul the same weight thanks for all the ideas/pics! Hitch# Type Class Max weight Max distribution weight Finish Price Details 36152 Heavy Duty 1 1/4 inch Rec 2 3500 N/A Black $129.95 75020 Square Tube 2 inch Rec. 3 3500 5000 Black $189.95 figure that one out lmao.. i'll get it for cost..... which is about $60

well.. my other idea was to do like i did on the front bumper and use parts off the push bars to make brackets and weld them to the frame. i want it strong to tow the boat... -bounce- definitely wanna see pics of your concoction