Slick

won't be til next year, and NO, he's not for sale anymore i luv the old fart. much as he annoys me lol

also, i forgot to mention, you can do a cheap (under $200) BL or JGC coil lift for your rig to fit 32's.....

yes, from what you described, you can stick with the factory set up. what I meant by the t-bars was, don't crank them to the amximum height, you will roast cv's quicker than snot. if your t bars sag after a crank with 1" left tot he bump stop, then you need to change or reindex them. a hoohaa CL will help as well ($225, cheap upgrade) , good shocks, and removing the rear sway bar for rocks will give you more flex out back while keeping the truck handling good on the road still. removing the front sway bar won't do much for you, as it's the IFS itself that doesn't have a bunch of flex. I wheeled mini me stock for 2 years before the front diff died (long story, NOT the pathy's fault)..... king handles the wheeling i do without a problem..... a good set of A/T tires will be an excellent investment, tires make ALL the difference

well, it depends...... what kind of *fawking around* do you plan on doing? rocks, rubicon/moab kinda stuff, or playin int he mud and mild to mid runs? every weekend or whenever you can go? you can strengthen your IFS steering components with a hoohaa center link, that will help save TRE"s from getting killed fast..... also, having your t-bars cranked up will also wear things out faster.....

SAS is the way to go if you wanna lose the IFS. i believe older waggy axels and older bronco axels work, calmini also sells an SAS kit...... for about $1800 (plus allt he other stuff you need) rugged rocks off road have a new 3 link set up for the front off a yota, for around $2200..... which is the way I'm going to go with king. almost all direct bolt on, only a bracket or 2 to be fabbed. downfalls? well, more lift= more than likely bigger tires = higher gas bills.........

there is a little valve that "wobbles" in there...... i KNOW there's a pic of correct install somewhere, I'll see if i can find it for you... it has to go in a specific way, if it doesn't, then it won't open.... or it won't open until it's too late. do you have a FSM or haynes manual? they both show a pic of correct install. ok, so basically, tho the block isn't overheating as far as you KNOW.... the rad is..... which emans it's not cooling properly before circulating back into the block, which is NOT a good thing. have you done the squeeze test on the rad hoses? top and bottom? (for pressure)

belt should not be able to be twisted more than 1/2" or 90 degrees i believe...... or, if oyu wanna do it by the book, 22lbs of pressure on the belt while yer tightening it up.

i'm sick, leave me alone :tonguefinger:

what was your temp gauge reading? have you ever had the dying issue before? is there coolant or just straight h2o in the rad? is the cap new? did the h2o boil out of the rad, or was it just very hot? could be h2o pump or t stat not installed correctly, but that wouldn't explain the stalling out. auto or manual?

OMG issac. I am glad no one was injured. you were VERY LUCKY to escape injury. poor pathy.

awwwwww. sorry to hear about your baby. hopefully you'll find a good frame for her and get her back up n running, bigger and badder than ever!

if the thread/hole is completely stripped, yes, if the engine is still in the truck, you may have to remove the head to do a proper repair job. If you slip and hit the water jackets behind the holes, it'll cost a whole lot more than a couple hundred bucks x tra in labor...... when i did all mine, i had both engines out, so i could flip and turn the engine as much as i wanted to do proper repair. these are the times a BL is handy to have.

my pathy's get about the same mileage (King just a tad worse) . i don't drive king (auto) as hard as mini (5 spd)....... but i bet if he was 7" shorter, and his tires were 2" smaller........ they'd be about equal in town mini's gas mileage SUX. highway. not bad, depending on what speed i drive, anywhere from 15-18mpg

i 2nd that notion. wouldn't the FIRST place you try to sell your product be the site you are advertising??

i'll take my 5 spd over my auto ANY day.........

2-3 days depending on ease of install and experience and how much you REALLY work on it

if yer t-bars are sagging, yes, 31's can rub............... crank the up a tad, more n likely fix the rub issue

well, isn't he just a sweetheart and a charmer? wonder if he's ever heard of a SNORKEL? i see NO MENTION that he took the YOTA through the mud bog......... peckerhead.

i have been in my friends 2000 x-t, and i am only 5'8" (but built like a brick house) and i found it to have very little cockpit room....... (i have long legs too)... WD-21 (pre 96) is THE way to go.......

@ 3-4 with 35's on a pathy... sorry, i have 7" of lift n rub my new 33's......... trimming (lots of it) will be required, and you'll wear steering components out faster than you can say sh!t....... (the joys of IFS) SAS if you want to go "big" and yeah, this has been covered a rediculous amount of times lately.......

you can do one yourself with a gauge you can rent from autozone and a couple of hours on a weekend..... yo don't have to be a great mechanic to do one..... get a haynes manual or FSM. or check out the garage, a few of us have done em

if you're NOT swapping harness & ecu.. you can only use the block (up tot he vc's) of the '94........ and will have to put all the TBi stuff back on 90 on is MPFi........

what did i tell you last night about RAPE????? he's a mechanic who doesn't deal with pathy's..... and the valves/lifters are ALWAYS the FIRST thing they say is wrong..... rookies

yeah, imma chick, i can get away wif painting my engine that color :tonguefinger:

i have an idea........ dodge plumb crazy purple....... looks real good wif da aluminum