Slick

no injuries, pathy came out on top..... yup, i'd say it was a good day. glad everyone is ok. damn a lotta pathy's have been gettin hit lately! *hides her 2 babies*

is there a way for me to check my trucks for you? i have both auto (disk) and 5 speed (drum rear)with lsd.....

damn, that's insane. i went straight for the $165 and got king a new starter... my old one had a flat spot. i don't like buying rebuilt stuff like that. i'll pay the x-tra n know what i'm getting the first time.

i got rid of mine..... i have a complete new system on mini, and king is running his redneck rigged system until i can get him in the shop in a couple weeks. neither truck has shields.

no need to jack it up. lay underneath it. feel around for the oil filter. once you find that, move towards the starter..... you can see it laying under the truck....... tighten it from down there if oyu can't reach through the fender. here's my oil filter relo kit i got from summit racing, it's a perma cool. $48 shipped. the pic is of mini me's relo kit. king also has one. king's both kits are identical.

i think thomas and i would agree, once you hit pathy #4..... you're an addict lol time to go find yourself #4 lol

to get to 4-lo you have to press the shifter DOWN and back try the search function, there was a complete write up on how to shift the t-case and what speeds. i think it's in the how-to's in the garage

i believe you could make it fit. it'd look kinda ghey, and they are a worthless added weight on a rig.

so would a 17mm (i think) long reach socket.........

yes, listen to me........ lol. my starter died on king of natural causes (and a flat spot) at 200k miles a couple weeks ago. the OPS and filter are notorious for making you believe you have an oil leak somewhere. but the OPS can come loose and leak. You can see it (looking through pass fender well) tot he left of the oil filter and right of the starter it may have a little orange boot on it with a wire coming out of it.

try making sure your oil pressure switch is tight, and also your oil filter. when was the oil changed last? oil changes are messy with the filter in stock locations.......

rugged rocks off road...... one of our own owns the site. don't bother with steps, not worth it. decals, you can search on here for them, but i had my own made...... quicker and the way i wanted them. ( i also bought some from Josh on here too) check ebay for stuff too.... and our very own classifieds section.

yup, that's what i do. i make more mess draining my oil lol.

bilsteins are good. i am currently running rancho's on both trucks. (5000's on mini & 9000's on king)

that's not a pathfinder......... it USED to be......... but now?

first off, you can remove the MAF and clean it gently with alcohol........ then replace. when you get the truck started, wiggle the wire that goes to the MAF...... they have a tendency to get squished under the hood and cause issues.

yes, i do all my own work. sometimes i have to call Mark to come over and assist me, but 99% of everything I do myself (I live alone also). I have always worked on my own trucks.... it's what I like to do.. yup, tomboy, grease monkey, wrench throwin girl lol. that's me! as for your spark plugs, clean em up, re-gap them, and if they look good as new..... stuff em back in. there's few ways to ruin a spark plug..... King is still running his new spark plugs from when I changed my injectors (I wasn't wasting $40 worth of plugs tyvm, they were fine) Everyone is helpful on this forum because everyone has been in your situation at one time or another and needed assistance....... we all had to start somewhere with our Pathy's and I must say, I wouldn't still OWN a Pathy if it wasn't for NPORA.

not the manifold, the intake plenum. (the manifold is for your exhaust) there are 5 bolts that hold the intake on, they should only be torqued to 12-14ft lbs i believe... mine were on so tight, I had to go buy a 6mm allen socket to remove them (that engine was built by a shop) you have to remove a few vaccum lines and connectors, but in the end, taking the time to remove the intake will save you a LOT of headache. ( i should know lol) that, and if you need to change your spark plugs, do it while the intake is off lol...... i actually left most everything connected on my intake, and just "flipped it on its side" toward the brake master cylinder... how ever i guess during that process i managed to "readjust" my CC cable....... when I put king back together, he surged real bad and nothing else lol...... fixed the issue and he's been runnin like a champ since. the biggest thing to be careful of is making sure you remove everything that needs to be unplugged/unclipped or popped off, and remember where it all goes. if you go for complete removal of the intake, you can get some brake cleaner and spray it inside the intake to clean it all out...... make sure to stay away from the sensors tho. don't over tighten ANYTHING

it doesn't matter which Pathy I take to work, they get about the same gas mileage believe it or not.... i drive mini (5 spd) more aggressively than king (auto), if i keep them both under 65mph....... i can go 300 miles on a tank..... so, i guess my answer would be, i slow down and suck it up. i can afford it.

i have 2 spare engines..... so spare parts weren't an issue.. and nope, I just grabbed the "new" rail off King's original motor and put it on....... been perfect ever since. I do have brand new seals and rings for injectors from my full gasket kit if you need/want them...... if you pull the actual injector out, yes, i suggest changing seals. the injectors are VERY hard to get to with the intake ON....... i have big but long skinny hands,(I'm a girl) and #2 and #4 injectors were bad...... intake off is the easiest way to go (more time consuming)..... K9 said he has spare injector rails that you can buy from him, I'd go that route and change them. I didn't know which injectors were bad (as one would work properly, then go bad, then work...) so Mark (msavides) came over with his electrical guru friend and used a tester thingie on it and did some cool stuff with it to my ECU too lol.... he pinpointed my bad injectors....... tho we found the (100% of the time) bad injector with the plug wire method...... the half bad injector was more of a challenge, which is why we ended up changing 1 injector, only to find there was another bad one..... that's when i replaced the whole fuel rail....... 2 outta 3 bad injectors...... i wasn't taking the chance the 3rd one would go too. the job can be done in a couple of hours from start to finish (intake removal).....

i ended up with 2 bad injectors (on king) and replaced the fuel rail on that side...... i found it easier to replace a rail than individual injectors (the first injector was reachable, but a real PITA to change, so i changed the whole rail) you don't have to take your seat out to get to the ECU, just slide the passenger seat all the way forward, take off the black cover on the ECU (i found this a bit easier) and run the codes from there. never give up!!!!!!! you will win!

just a tip from an ex-semi driver (me)....... NEVER, EVER, look behind you (out the back window) and don't use your rear view mirror to back up.... use your side mirrors and that's IT..... just remember...... whatever way you turn the wheel, your trailer will go the opposite direction. turn the wheel left, trailer will go right. turn the wheel right, trailer will go left. BEWARE OF JACK KNIFING..... it can do quite a bit of damage to your rig.

the 5 cylinder thing...... been there, done that, bad injector, or, bad plug wire.... hydrolock. definitely with half a can of cleaner ] blue smoke. head gasket, bad piston, bad ring...... are you losing/using a lot of coolant?

i agree.............

i did the studs (6 out of 11 broken) on mini me (no lifts). PITA but to save $1k to spend on other goodies, DIY! take your time, get the right tools (see precise1's write up) and ask your neighbor for help