Precise1

You remove the old manifolds, down pipes and cross pipe to the pre cat pipe that houses the O2 sensor. In your case, remove the old studs and install the new ones. Mount the headers, but just barely, keeping the nuts as loose a possible (for movement) Assemble the Y pipe and cross over pipe and install using the same loose technique. Get everything aligned and in place, then start tightening things. The head studs are rated as something like 8-12 ft/lbs, so be gentle. More is not better... I used a thin coat of Permatex copper to stick everything together and help seal, no issues so far. You should retorque the header bolts after a few runs/heat cycles. No write ups?? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31098-another-doug-thorley-header-leak-problem/?hl=%2Bthorley+%2Bheader+%2Binstall&do=findComment&comment=588653 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/25869-hands-on-experience-with-doug-thorley-headers/?hl=%2Bthorley+%2Bheader+%2Binstall http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/15027-doug-thorley-header-install/?hl=%2Bthorley+%2Bheader+%2Binstall http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/8933-future-manifold-replacement/ Any other questions? B

So two questions Steeeeeevo, what is different about this design and why isn't Kenny using them? B

^x2 but I'm not sure how often they recover. Definitely relocate it (there are threads on it here) and get a replacement. Nothing personal Bud, but I advise you quit charging into things until you have things set up a little better, it will reduce the total cost/digging/downtime. Good to hear the snorkel worked though, otherwise you'd be asking about motors as well. FYI if you do ever ingest water, shut it off immediately, get it clear, pull all the plugs and crank it to clear the water. B

Make sure to check your battery ground connections as well, that is often overlooked... B

Recently? Thorley didn't have the tooling from all the previous runs? Used to be that they did a small run when there were enough orders placed, why some people waited for a year. That seems odd... With the supplied bolts? As long as they are decent grade, that is what I would do-and did. I see no benefit to studs... B

That's just because you aren't stopping to pull them out... Jeeps are great like that, automotive legos. A well set up Jeep is an impressive off road vehicle (I will not agree with on road for most of them), but the mistake with the 'Jeep Only' mentality is that they aren't the only capable option out there, and that in stock form most of them are nothing special at all. Guy Fieri. I believe the implication is that you'll never roll a Jeep that you just pose in front of, but I can say I have seen it on the road, driven by Guy's stund double. B

Those look like the right ones to me. See the threaded bung hole on the left one? That is where the EGR pipe goes. The Y pipe and cross over pipe with the lap joint look the same as well. I can even give you the part number for the Walker lap joint band clamp, $12 at Summit IIRC. When did he buy them? He said it was through Rugged Rocks? That was 1-2 years ago so they have to be right... B

I always thought it was so you can be thrown clear when you roll it. JK B

AFAIK, most things from the front doors forward are the same as a Pathy, and there ae several D21 (Hardbody) owners here, we don't have a problem with that. FYI a 1995 Pathfinder is the last year WD21 (square nose), 1996-2004 are the R50 (round nose?). I believe Slart is correct about the fitment. I don't know about the interior, but I believe that Nunya was talking about a hardbody bench seat swap, so maybe. Welcome to NPORA, BTW. B You have an electronic dash, I suspect your tach is wrong. Try removing the gauge cluster and tightening the screws, and clipping a tach on under the hood and comparing the two as well.

Honestly, I expect mine to come right out, you saw how clean everything is. As for the bolt, pretty much any hardware store should have what you need, you just have to match up the diameter, thread pitch and length. Might want to consider going with stainless if available and not terribly expensive, the rust crap would drive me nuts. Might I recommend picking up a pair of calipers and a pitch gauge, I'm sure they would serve you well for a long time. B

Thorley headers are legal in Cali IF they have the EGR port, which I believe all the short tubes do. IIRC the long tubes have a different set up for the VG30I? Long tube are better theoretically, but I think all that is made now is the short tube. Still way better than stock and probably the best functioning/fitting CARB legal headers out there. I do not recall them not fitting on non-lifted Pathys (body lift), and the manual VS auto fitment is erroneous, they fit on both. There is a guy selling a set here for $400 and if it is legit, it is a good deal. I like mine, and the smog tech complimented me on them. 1995, 2" BL, auto trans. B

It is easier and better to go with VG33 heads, do a VG33 swap or build up a VG34-enstein. B

Sorry, and it turns out he didn't write it up. Thought he did... You should be able to figure it out or PM him with questions, I'd surprised if he wasn't willing to help you out. B

Absolutely, I've done it myself. B

MY1PATH has a write up on a hidden snorkel if you haven't seen that yet... B

The problem of just going to the base of the windshield is that water washes up the hood easier than you would think, even if it is just a brief wheel dip. Either make it hidden in the fender or go to the roof. B

^ Agreed. Just wanted some attention on V-Day. *seriously, I have no idea* B

It does sound like a fuel issue to me, but you have changed the fuel pump and filter, so maybe the pressure regulator is failing? You probably don't have the right gauges but it is a fairly simple thing for a mechanic to check... B

I will refer you to the Diagnostic Proceedure starting on EC-88 of the FSM. Sorry, but there is more than I want to type. This is where I would start... Bah, that only applies to the round dash. Why you people have the old models, I'll never know... B

Yeah, we get side tracked sometimes. I can delete that part if you wish... B

From this picture I don't really see where a clip would be, but I agree, it seems like something should hold it in. I'm going to do the rear brakes on mine soon as well, but not in time to answer these questions now. I've only had the rear drums off once, to check pad thickness and for leaks. I simply didn't study the set up or mess with it. B

If it was threaded, you would have to twist that entire cable around 10 times to thread it in, and then where are the wrench flats? I see none... B

Ok, go to Rockauto.com, look up your year/model/etc and then go to parking brake cable. This will show what the end looks like, or close enough. The part after the flange towards the end is what slips into the backplate. The cable housing is seperate from the backing plate, just his are rusted together. Yep. There is some old, really light underspray that will flake off it I rub it, underneath is factory gloss balck paint... B

Ok, I get it. You are welcome, I should have done that sooner. With another look, it appears that the cable housing is clamped to a metal piece which has a flange on it (to locate it) and a smaller diameter after that which slides into a tube or passage on the back of the plate. I don't know the thickness of the sidewall, but if you can grab the flange with some pliers and rotate it to break it free and pull it out... Another bettter way if you have something appropriate is to stick something in from the otherside along side the cable so you are touching the end of that piece and tap it out, but I'm not sure that is possible so be gentle. Penetrating oil is always good, same with tapping on it with a metal object to 'ring' it. You might try some heat, but only on the base of the backing plate and not too hot. Save that for last. B

If you feel confused, you have company. Just to beat it to death (with no assuming) P0152 is the code the vehicle shows which states front O2 sensor, bank 2. P0158, which isn't a code you have, states rear O2 sensor, bank 2. We established B2 is the US drivers side, and I think we can all agree what the front of the vehicle is. P0152 should be for the O2 sensor before the cat, which is the 3pin as per your description and TC's provided link. Right? B How about you just change both at this point and be done with it one way or another?