Precise1

Well, kind of an update, evolution, and reality check. I thought of a different design.... Easier, cheaper, steel, possibly adjustable.... I also looked up the price of stock today, and it would be $40-$45 in material alone for a 4" drop for the prototype in aluminum.... Thats more than I thought.... I will work up some drawings this weekend. While the new design could still be produced as a product, I believe I can show you how to make on your own with little more than a hand drill (drill press, welder and/or lathe would helpfull), some steel, hardware, spacers, and a ruler.... LOL I'll update with drawings soon. Bernard

I have a 95, and dont have an exploded (or any) view of the hub/rotor assembly for an 01. I know they are different animals, but you will need to do something like, remove the center hub cap, drive flange ?, lock nut(s) and wheel bearings before the rotors will come off. I'm assuming you don't have a manual ? Anyone with a manual or experience with an 01 ? Bernard

While I didn't see the estimate, and you'r rotors may need turning as mentioned, that seems like true stealership pricing... If you have the time/ability/weather conditions, check it out yourself first, then do the work if appropriate. The savings could be $500-$1000 all depending.... Worth some inconvenience in my book... Good luck. Bernard

Definitely worth bleeding... What condition is the fluid in ? B

Got ya 88. I had imagined a hard insert with the contours of the spring cup that could just be placed in there. Understood Mr What I meant by work around was how to do it without spring compressors. Yes, there is more than one way to install the springs, none is right or wrong, just what tools you have and how you prefer to do it... B

88, you mention spring spacers, top and bottom.... How much do they space ? Is there a reason why not just to install the spring spacer on the bottom and use the stock springs to gain lift ?? I just replaced the rear shocks with ProComp ES3000 shocks and as Mr Pickles said, they are stiff, so thats not a worry. 2" is all I want, but maybe spacers don't come that thick ? Clue me in please... Bernard

Ok, maybe you dont need coil spring compressors if you remove brake line guides, have friends with wood wedges, prybars, etc. I have a set of spring compressors from working on strut front ends, so I didn't think about the work arounds.... I'm sure they all work... Bernard

Hey Skrill... I think I know this one well. Just loosen the 3 bolts for the front t-bar mount, no need to take them all the way out as some of them are a PITA to get at, and this just allows some slop so things are not binding... To the rear, back off the adjuster ALL the way. Now you can drop the T-bar cross member, and everything is free. Maybe there is an easier way, but thats what I did, and it was accessable and straight forward. You can also remove the C clip in the front facing side of the T-bar cross member (this may take 2 screw drivers, ingenuity and cursing as you chase it in a circle) but I don't think it's is necessary this way.. Just remember to mark the T-bar indexing BEFORE you pull them. I used carb cleaner and a brush to clean them before hand, and marked them with a construction marker (read 'crayon'). Personally, I think a spline or two is sufficient depending on how high you plan to go (how old and saggy the rig is), but apparently some people do 3... It would be good to have some grease on hand to re-lube the splines also... Good luck ! Bernard

Sorry, mudfinder, I was not attacking you personally, just making a general statement, hence the 'sorry if this seems personal, it's not' comment. I also did not say you did this on purpose.... Glad you fixed the leak easily. I have met many people who willingly 'fix' leaks by adding a quart every few days; those are who I was adddressing in the general statement. I have asked these people "what about motorcyclists" and the response is usually "oh, never thought about that". Thats beyond stupid.... I'll tone it down a bit, but this kind of behavior has cost me a lot of time, money and pain; I got carried away. Benard

Ok edta1, this is what I would do (and it seems like you are up for it and it isn't that hard). Buy brake pads, remove tires, remove rotors (have to do it to repack grease anyway) and take them (tires and rotors) to a local tire/allignment shop you know/trust to have the rotors turned and wheels re-ballanced. This should be about $90 MAX, but I'm gestimating. Ok, install everything (new pads and disk brake bearing grease, get this specifically!, for another $60ish) and you have done all the work for $150 in parts/service. Now enjoy the other $250 and tell the stealership to FO !! OK, if the stealership sells Nissan rotors, and they need to be turned out of the box before installing (these being OEM parts), that means that the rotors that come equiped on NEW vehicles are out of spec and need to be turned before they leave the car lot. Doesn't that sound like BS to you ? I have never seen new rotors that say 'must be turned before installation' on the box. That would be like selling rotor blanks to be machined into required specifications. Again, BS !! That's why they are known as stealerships. You would either be amused or in horror if you were present when a service manager tried to tell me tell me that crap !! Ok, just re-read your post, and you can get ballance for free... Do it !! Just have the rotors turned, repack bearings, install new pads, bleed the brakes, and you are set !! One more time for good luck. The Dealership is full of crap about new rotors having to be turned. Don't deal with them again, or call them on their BS, it wont hold up !! Good luck and let us know how it went... Bernard

Oh my Mudfinder... I hope you still have engine seals left !! If you are ever in doubt, post, and I'll tell you the recommended fluid quantity. Just want to let you enjoy your ride, not spray oil all over the road for motorcyclists like me who you could KILL !!! No joke Bud, I've hit the oily $hit many times, but ONLY crashed twice. Once was only $800 in damage and the other was only $1500 damage and a dislocated shoulder, then counting 6 weeks off of work. Sorry if this seems personal, it's not, it's a RANT !!! Anyone who willingly drips/sprays/leaks or otherwise deposits significant amounts of automotive fluid on the road ways, please tell me your address, and I will swiftly and happily arrive at your abode to fix the problem. (WARNING: the fix may have NOTHING to do with your vehicle...) Bernard

LOL 93blkpathr, the rear hatch head hitting complaint had me in stitches !! Are the supports not supporting, or is it you. I have the cure; just read my latest endry in the 'self=depreciation alley' in the general gorums. I walk with a permenant hunch now.... B

Hmm, let's see... Other than just having done the clutch and replacing the shocks, what's left ? Lower Ball Joints Centerlink Tie rod ends CV boots look like used bomb squad gear The hole burned through drivers side floor board (right heel) needs to be fixed Just started exhaust ticking when cold, but that may be the seal to the down pipe The open door light flickers while driving from the rear lift senser And my personal favorite !!! The cigarette lighter is possesed... If you try to use it, it does 1 of 3 things randomly. 1) Works normally 2) Stays depresses eternally without gaining a degree or 3) Works it's self up to INFERNO (I mean beyond cherry red) and launches it's self out of its berth to ricochet randomly about the passenger compartment like the happy little meteor it always wanted to be. Personally it amuses me, but then I'm kinda quacked anyway. I think of it as a mood ring for the pathy. All in all not a bad list, but then she's a 95 with 110K and just developing her personality.... DSM, to put things into perspective, you should have mentioned you have almost 1/4 MILLION miles on your rig !! Bernard

Hey Keith. Have you tried moving the shielded wire harness and angle in an open ended wrench ? You may be able to get 1/16 turn, and keep flipping the wrench. I just did my clutch, and I seem to remember disconnecting those wires from above through the shifter hole; it is reasonably large, but getting the boot off was a PITA !! I ended up cutting the carpet hole larger by slitting the corners. Have you considered that approach ? A careful eyeballing would tell you if it may work.... In case neither of those two are possible, yes, that is the crossmember that needs to be dropped. (obviously) Support it with a jack, and undo the bolts, then lower the tranny rear until it barely touched the T-bars. If that's not enough, then the T-bars need to be dropped, although you may be able to just drop their crossmember a bit also. Yes, the tranny is firmy mounted to the engine, but the 2 engine mounts are off of the wheel wells so the motor can pivot the way it is needed. Just BE CAREFUL not to allow the components on the top rear of the motor to contact the firewall. It shouldn't be a problem, but it is close. I almost blew it myself. You shouldn't have to unbolt the tranny mount, just drop the crossmember a bit. And yes, the manual (any manual) is VERY helpful. Good luck, and holler if you need more help/info. Bernard

Yes, new rotors are an option IF thats the problem.... LOL MM, yes, it takes some indicating to get it right on a lathe, but it's not that bad. Personally, I'd use the old trick of mounting it on the spindle in the chuck; then it's a piece of cake Bernard

What I mean is that I'm not sure that warped rotors are part of the 'jerking stop' issue you complained about, but then I have not inspected or driven you vehicle so I'm going more by hunch.... You need a lathe or brake turning machine to turn the rotors. What is done is to mount the rotors (preferably by the locating surface) on a lathe and spin it. They you drag a sharp tool across both sides, making them flat and parallel. Simple operation really, but you need a lathe and a little bit of experience... Bernard

Someone, Flyer I think, posted a link in the general forum (I think) on bulb comparison done professionally. They seemed to think the PIAA's were lousy. I don't really know, just parroting. Check out the link and draw your own conclusion. Bernard

Yes, it is the same as turning (putting it on a lathe) but it's kinda funny he calls it shaving, like you have hairy rotors or something.... Yes, most 'complete' shops will have a machine for turning durms and rotors, or they will oursource it. Either way, it's no big deal. While turning the rotors usually doesn't hurt, I still question if this is the issue. I'm morally opposed to paying for work that doesn't directly address the issue. But then again, I haven't inspected the brake system or driven the car so I'm not going to cry foul too loud... Good luck, and keep us informed please. Bernard

What you say makes sense OptiOn, but then not everyone has fabrication skills and/or access to a convenient metal supply, a large pipe bender, a welder, a powercoater, a place to do the work, etc... Not to mention those who would make more $ in their own occupation VS the time it would take them to design and fabricate the item themselves. I use this principle often to optimize long term 'bang for buck'. Good for you if you can knock out a pair though Bernard

Hey OptiOn. I'll beat everyone to the obvious and standard answer... Use the 'search' function and read. That being said, there is a good write up by 88 at the top of the garage section titles 'rear spring options...' or something equally identifyable. Coil spring compressors, jack and jackstands are about all you need other than common sense. The T-bars are easy.... Jack up and support the front end. Loosen the locking nut, turn the bolt clockwise (while securing the second nut I believe). If your truck sits even (from side to side) just count the turns and do it the same on both sides. If you crank them up a lot, have it aligned. The T-bars should take you 20 minutes.... Good luck. Bernard

LOL 88 !! You are right about the way it would have to be done, but dont dare too much; I may make one just to have you eat your words.... Seriously, I see how to do it, but it would be a moderate PITA requiring a CNC mill, and not remotely cost effective. Anything can be made, but I said, I had never seen one. *bows and backs out of the room, keeping one hand near his gun* Bernard

Good questions Reido. First, aluminum is much easier to work with, and any on site installment mods required by 88 on the prototype can be done with a file/dremmel easily. Second, aluminum doesn't rust. Third, a steel unit would require several different pieces welded together, and I'm not all that good a welder yet. Fourth, steel is cheaper, but the loss in workability and the increased labor/tooling for manufacture would drive the price higher than just purchasing aluminum stock. Aluminum does fatigue more rapidly, but remember that fatigue happens mainly when forces are sufficient to stress/bend the material. If you look at your stock PHRM, you will notice that it is not the most impressive unit. 3/16 steel at best, stamped and folded (which weakens the metal) and not even welded in the rear. My initial guesstimate of .5" thick walls for the 'bell' end should provide equal stiffness. I have yet to do calculations from the machinist hand book, or have an engineer do stress analysis but I'm fairly certain thats roughly comparable. In addition, all fillets (internal edges) will be radiused; sharp edges (welds included) are the weak point. The PHRM is not the only thing holding the rear axle in place, it merely seems to be the stabilizing./aligning bar so the forces should not be excessive, and as I mentioned before, the addition of steel hole inserts and/or shoulder bolts will negate slop and possible wear of the immediate through hole area. I have worked with a few engineers from Boeing and seen/had described the wing spar and strut assemblies, all of which are aluminum, 6061T6 mainly. If you saw these wing components and considered the weight of the plane/cargo and thrust from the engines you would probably never fly again. I cant even help but watch the wings when aloft.... As for the clearance issue, true, if your tire dropped straight off a rock and there was another directly under the PHRM you could tag it, but it is considerably higher and not much farther rear than the rear diff, so there are a few other things that would hang up and take abuse first. Besides, we try not to do that Technically, you could raise up the axle mount side but there are several more immediate issues. If you have significant articluation it is possible that you have interference with the pan or something else. Also, standing up like that you create a moment arm (as opposed to a rigid mount) that creates significantly more force on the entire system. If you were to significantly articulate the rear axle, the sine error would have the effect of pushing/pulling the rear axle laterally, doing god knows what but I'm sure increased bushing wear would be a result. This still occurs somewhat if you drop the pan side mount, but not as much, and the Nissan engineers designed it to be that way so I'm loathe to second guess them. Also, VERY importantly, there is only one bolt on the axle to mount off of which would create a pivot point, where as on the pan side, there is a bracket directly off of the frame that has two staggered bolt holes existing, and could be drilled for more/different bolt patterns making manufacturing far more simple. Lastly, 88's reply was "Holy Cow, that looks BEEFY !!", and didn't whimper or whine when I suggested aluminum. Like I said before, if he doesn't mangle it, it's a proven product Thanks much for the critical questions Reido. This is still in the prototype stage, and why I started this thread. I WANT critical questions !! I have obviously spent a lot of time working on this, but I can miss something as easy as the next person. What I want to do is create a good product, which is why I'm not just whipping something out.... Parts I make have my 'name' on them which means there is a standard to hold. Besides, I have my arrogant login name to live up to Examine my logic and methods; find any errors you can think of and let me know ! This is just the start of the products; more to come !! Thanks all Bernard

For what it's worth, those with a VG30E (air box in the front drivers side) I can make MAF adapters quite easily... If the pre-96 altima adapters work(with holes filed/redrilled) and you can get them CHEAP, then go for it. For others that dont have the time or desire to monkey around (and dont want to deal with fuel hose) get in touch with me. I'm not knocking the other methods, but some people want plug and play, not fooling around with parts and frankenmechanics. Maybe I can make an adaptor for the VG30i, but I have never seen one.... Bernard

Good job 95Finder ! Sounds like you took the right approach and fixed everything, rather than a quickie fix. Not that quickies are not appropriate sometimes, but when it comes to fuel, hydrolics, or electrical, you are asking for it. I can sympathize with your solid line adventure; I replaced the hi-pressure power steering pump line in an old Nissan 720 pickup. It wrapped the entire engine compartment/front frame cross member with only 6" of flex line at one end. I kept removing more and more parts, day after day because I would get so frustrated I had to walk away from it. I finally got it in through the passenger wheel well, bent it to get it around a 'corner' then bent it back and bolted it to the frame. It ranks in the top 10 of PITA jobs I have ever done on a car. Again, well done... Bernard

2,3 and 4"; noted 88. Makes more sense that the numbers I pulled out of my hiney.... I should have a dimensioned drawing no later than end of the weekend, and I'll send you 'blueprint' type dimensioned drawings for a rough conformation. The only modification I have thought of so far is steel sleeves for the bolt holes and/or using shoulder bolts; I'll be more specific when I've worked it through. Disturbed1, your avatar had me laughing out loud and disturbing my co-workers; WAY COOL ! BUT, don't hero worship 88 too much or he wont be able to get his swollen head inside his truck to test my parts... Bernard