Precise1

I think I'm in love.... Don't worry though, I can respect any father who calls HIMSELF Grumpy... It lets you know right where you stand !! I never heard about roll over issues in pre '96 but that certainly doesn't mean it doesn't exist. Wow, I think I confused myself !! Anywho, one of my main goals in life it to NOT roll my truck, but then you never know what happens. As a motorcycle rider I feel pretty darn safe in it though... I explained to a doctor who told me that I heal very well, "Practice, lots of practice..." No need for your daughter to go there... B

LMAO B

Hey Mr P ! OK, I'm just pi$$ing in the wind here, but it seems lift and/or speed related. The fact that your transfer case moves does not sound good. I dont know if you have auto or manual, but in my manual the t-case is solid mouned to the tranny... It wont move if the tranny doesnt... The fact that it 'excites' with speed indicates drive train... Could your universals be having problems ? Have you torqued the front cross member ? (although that is not speed realted) Is your 4 wheel shifter getting pushed ? Only on left turns... Steering related ? @!*%e man, sounds wierd, but be patient before tearing into things. Maybe someone else has a better idea...

Kinda a summary of all the good information above... Install JGC springs in the rear, and beef up the front end with components if you wheel a lot. Crank the T-bars until its near level (depends on what you have installed, but it should be ok with 1" UCA bump stop clearance) and drive it. 31" tires are what you can run without problems. Unfortunately Pathys were not engineered to be jacked to the hilt, but are very capable. Good tires would probably serve you just as well. Driving style means a lot... Any chump can dig through a mud hole with a V8 and 40" tires, but then I've slithered around the same people when they were stuck in my old 720 PU with 235/75/15 tires... There is hero off roading and there is getting to where you want to go. Admititedly there are places I wouldn't even try with my Pathy that a 12" lift Ram Charger with Swampers could go, but thats apples and oranges... B

/\ :snicker: I'm closer... (and better looking) Sorry to hear about the accident, and I'm glad she wasn't hurt ! You can always buy new metal... A 97 eh ?? You couldn't find a pre 96 in good shape ? But then maybe it isnt worth the trouble and she doesn't "wheel" a lot... I dont know much about 96+ pathys; I just wanted to say sorry, and I'm glad your daughter is OK... Bernard

Wise move ! Good luck and let us know what turns up... Yeah, the old heart can definitely interfere with the brain at times. Depending on the price, it may be worth putting a few $ into it, but then again.... Wait to see what the mech says... B

Well done and thanks for the picts !! Thats pretty much what I figured for the jerry can mount, but my idea was to make it bolt on for those with out a welder. Looks like you did a nice job !! Any rattles ?? B

Pretty much the same as above... Not being a rust preventitive conniseur, I do know that you want to remove as much old rust as possible via wire wheel. scraper, etc. Permatex works well when I have used it, but POR15 is a GOOD brand name and can be counted on... Start scrubbing B

You should be able to run 31" no problem... If there is rubbing, do the GJC lift as mentioned and crank/index the T-bars... Maybe new stiff shocks would be nice, but not necessary. I had 31" before I did the above and had no problems.... Also, dont let 88 see you said "flair" instead of "flare" as the latter involves cheap restaurants B

Nice set up mtnnate !! I'm with statikuz about the 31" tires though... 33", ohhh, 1" more clearance 20% less milage+steering linkage issues. It's cool to pump up a dedicated rig for fun but a lot of us dont have that lux. Dont get me wrong on this, I think its great to max out a truck if you use it !! 31" with T-bars cranked and JGC springs in the rear=my winter/reliable daily driver and it's very capable. Just a side note. I was talking to the owner of a 80's yota turbo PU that was lifted, chopped and frankensteined (definitely an offroad special). He asked me what I had and I pointed out my Pathfinder (which is nothing special) and his reply was "Pathfinder ? Shet, those things go d@mn near anywhere !!" I don't think he was trying to make me feel good either.... Bernard

Ditto to 88... Motor could be shot, drive train could be shot, tranny could be shot. I take it to a mechanic QUICK with the expectation of backing out of the deal. Not trying to be a joykill, but if you can tell a major difference, something is wrong ! The collary is that it may run just fine for 10 years like that... Check it out. B

Nice snosnk ! Definitely update with picts !! I'm curious about your jerry can attachment; was planning on making some brackets to mount off of the tire carrier... B

Ahh, yes, well, there you are... HWT types faster than me I guess B

Cool with the "lift", thats about the same as I got.... I'd just crank the T-bars until its level (or slightly nose down as I prefer) and leave it alone. You should still have about 1" to the UCA bump stops. The pan hard rod holds the rear axle laterally, hopefully centered to the chassis, and keeps the body from slopping about in the rear when you turn. Thats all I have known them to be called, and I have NO idea what a good price is. Try calling the Stealership to get a price on a new one; this may put it in perspective... The only way I can think that could get bent like that is if the driver rear wheel took a good hit from the side or the passengers side rear body was slammed, but there may be other possibilities... Before you buy a new one, make sure your rear axle is centered and measure straight line bolt to bolt, then ask the wreckers to do the same. (I'd measure mine for you, but I cant find my tape measure ) If there is a difference, a straight one will shove your axle to one side (if you can get it on). If this is the case, check to see if your rear passenger frame rail is straight... Anyone out there with a Pathy AND a tape measure to help him out ?? Hope this helps, good luck Bud !! Bernard

LOL, good one... Congrats on the (cheap ?) fix !! B

I have only seen straight ones... I'd say yours has the bejesits bent out of it.... Do you wheel hard ? Has the truck ever been hit from the side ? Was one tire sticking out farther than the other ?? Interesting... Bernard

Hey there, I'm wondering what size tire you are running now ? I have an unlifted 95 with chromies and BFG AT 31/10.5" which works just fine. I also agree with oilman's BFG description. If you were to have some minor rubbing issues I would HIGHLY recommend cranking and/or indexing your torsion bars and installing some Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 front springs in the rear. I have the front end about 1 inch from the UCA bump stops wich seems fine. This is a CHEAP and EASY way to gain height and better suspension. (thanks MM and 88 ) It gave me about +2.5" front and rear... There are posts about this, just look around. Bernard

I like it GG and generally salute fresh ideas and inginuity, but in this case, why not just go with a Hardbody Kingcab PU ?? B

Usually, the cause of the water pump going bad in this case is removing the fan/clutch for clearance issues. When you remount it, it has a different imballance point, and worn bushings in the waterpump only put up with this for a while before failing. I have never been able to figure out a way around this so I have replaced many fan clutch/waterpumps "unnecessarily" because I was there and didn't want to be back there in 3 months... Good planning ! Cost a little extra, but means less trouble in the future. Bernard

Well done !! Only Q is that I dont see an expansion chamber, have you noticed any lag due to this ? B

Glad you are getting milage out of the forum, not to mention developing skills and confidence. The Tap trick can work, but it needs to be specifically a roll (thread forming) tap. It's basically a tapered screw that is lobed around the diameter. It picks up the existing thread (if any) and forces displaced material back to thread form. This is always my first try with a stripped hole. Anyone know what size thread we are talking about ? I may have one in my tool box. If not, I can find a good place to order them from. Helicoils work very well, and are Mil Spec FYI. A good place to go and check things out (and their prices are usually pretty good) is MSC industrial supply. http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/nnsrhm Anyway, someone let me know what size thread it is and I'll go from there... Bernard

For your budget, I say just go with the 31" tires... that .5" less ground clearance and 5% better gas milage.... Save the $, then replace components and go straight to 33"... Just a long term thinker here... B

Arg, my manual is at work so I cant look at an exploded view, but something does not sound right... If it is broken/stripped, a pair of vice grips and some rotating/tugging will pull it out (if it is not preloaded). Sorry if it's insulting, but are you sure it is not a thru bolt/nut and is just spinning ? Otherwise, I would suggest roll tapping the hole with the same thread; you may be able to reform them sufficiently.... I've guessed enough, will look at manual tomorrow... Bernard

Move to Cali.... I have a Bud who owns his own shop that owes me $; that = equipment use.... The owner at work gave me open use of machines; "It's your time, just don't get hurt" leaves it wide open... Hang out at the local machine shop at quitting time with beer; it's always respected He!!, I have access to more equipment than I have modivation or time... I'll help ya with the specialty items though... As for whoever harping about geriatric nay sayers, consider this: Has no one thought of this before ? Could it be that easy ? Consider this equasion: ($ X difficulty X parts) / (experience X equipment X assistance X time). Anything CAN be done, you just wind up with a wild #... If you like, I can derive the units for that equasion but you will wind up with something like $(headache squared)weeks.... As for the the project, I support it. Go to it man, it will be good experience if it works or not !! I'll help if I can for custom stuff, just try not to do any irreversible mods, and outline things before pulling parts. Bernard

2 solenoids, and a TCM unit in 2 weeks ? For $3k ? I'd be putting a cancel on some checks, and ringing some necks !! I don't know what the problem is, but obviously neither do they. Point being, part swapping in the dark at your expense is VERY bad form... Good luck Bud... B