Precise1

LMAO Rami... Really ?? Never would have guessed Mr. SFM Bernard

Nice on the Pathy, but clean your lense and give us more pic's when its done As for the twit with the comment, well, my guess is that it's a teen with a hormone imbalance, horrendously undersexed (right hand has calluses), with bad acne who didn't pay for his own vehicle... Bernard

LMAO hardwaretoad, darnm mnear sprayed beer in the keeboard !!! sw $ spk, I give you major kudo's for doing this work, and hope you condense it into a technical article, but you gotta admit hardwaretoad has a point. Don't get me wrong, VW bugs are another 'hobby' of mine and I have seen 1 with a V8; while I would never do it myself, its still cool !!!! :bow: Keep it up and good luck !! Bernard

I get it crazygeologist, like a 'carpet kit' for a truck... Good idea... My 95XE has the speakers in the roof, so maybe I could get a few more inches clearance... I'll have to check it out and see what can be done. I still like the idea of pulling the seat bottoms for an extra 3-4' though... Bernard

Skrill, believe it or not, I have had that problem with a cd deck of mine. I cleaned all power and ground connections, and it wasn't as bad but still did it. 1 month later, the old (6 year, my how time flys) battery catastrophically failed (drove to work fine, battery dead and gone showing 6V 4 hours later). It seems the battery getting ready to fail was drawing/fluctuating the power of the system (this was explained to me) and it sort of makes sense. I replaced the battery, and the cd deck worked fine. I sold the truck, but I pulled the stereo and put it into another car. The point is, check the power connections to the stereo, and then the battery/charging system in the truck. It seems like the cd players are VERY sensitive to this sort of thing. Hope it helps.... I know that was my problem. Bernard

LOL dkpathy96, two of what ? 2 'vertically challenged peoples', 2 in the fetal position, 2 german shepards in love ? I'm 6'1" so no real giant, but after laying down in the rear with the seats dropped, I realized that I could pull it off if I was diagonal. But 2 ? RIGHT... I'm not sure where the GF is going to sleep; guess she gets the roof.... I seriously plan install removeable pins for the rear seat bottoms, and that should make the difference... Haven't tried it yet, but looking forward to it Bernard

Hey bluetribal. Remember, 'Brake cylinder, water pump, timing belt, clutch, and all new hoses' is $2000-$3000 worth of work at a stealership... Two tires, repacking the auto hubs(maybe new bearings), cv joints, cranking the t-bars, alignment and changing ALL fluids would probably run you $600 in parts if you did the work, and then the truck will have been fairly well reconditioned, and its not uncommon for these trucks to last 250k miles. At least this way you know that the work has been done recently. Also, there is a post about front end clunk here; it may only need retorquing, and along with new bearings/cv's that should take care of it. (ball joints and various bushings could also be the culprit). Unfortunately buying a used car is always a gamble, so I look for cars that have been worked on recently, not 'it never needed any work' vehicles because they WILL need it, and probably soon. To give you an idea, I just bought a '95XE 4x4 MT with 109K miles in about 90-95% condition (everyone remarks how clean and straight it is inside and out) for $5800 in northern california. It has new tires, timing belt, waterpump, brakes, rear shocks, and exhaust other than the CAT and manifolds. I'm putting in a clutch, new front shocks, changing ALL oils and having an alignment. With parts, tax registration, smog and purchase price this puts me at $7k for a truck that will last me 100k miles. It has a a few creaks and clunks that I will address in spring, and other than that (as long as the tranny holds) it should be fine for a long while. I will always pay some pennies/do some work to insure reliability and peace of mind. While I did not 'steal' this truck, I think its a solid fair deal. Good luck with the search; when in doubt, be patient. Bernard

Hey 93xe. This is what I plan to get... $270 and free shipping and $10 rebateis about as cheap as its gonna be for a new one. You might search and get lucky, maybe not. I'm holding off until I get a job first LOL. Let me know what you think or a review if you get them. http://www.accessconnect.com/westinpush.htm Bernard

Thanks madkiwi for putting this up (nice format also). I'm darn glad for it and I'm sure many others will be also. Any word on your tranny yet ? Bernard

Hey there jrvanas. I suggest you stop 'burning one' during lunch... problem solved ! No really, what you need is someone with a really good sniffer. Oil smells way different than brakes/clutch or wire insulation/synthetic stuff. Of course look around also, but drive it in hot to a good machanic you know, and I bet he points out the problem in 5 minutes... Also, check to see if ALL the electrical works. Could be you shorted/grounded out somewhere and got a '1 time' smell until the wire fried/fuse blew... Good luck ! Bernard

Just a note to the aware... I used to work in gas stations, and learned this little tidbit. DO NOT fill up at a gas station if a tanker is there. All tanks have some sediment, etc in them (some more than others) but when they fill the tanks, it all gets stirred up. If you pump your gas, you get the whole mix. Your fuel filter will catch most of it.... most of it ! Not ALL. Watching the owner of the gas station leaving in a hurry one day when a tanker was delivering, and filling up across the street drove this point home. Worth sharing in my book. Bernard

Much Thanks madkiwi !! One thing I planned on doing was changing ALL the fluids in the truck, so, I'll drain the tranny, remove it, fill it 'normally' when sitting on the floor, then roll it over a bit, and put in at least 1 more liter.... Yes, please let us know what a pro says; we might have the same issue eventually. I'm wondering if the TSB's and 'fix' shouldn't be posted in the Garage Forum 'Important Topics' section ? Would you mind madkiwi ? Or just link it ? I think a LOT of people would like to know this.... Thanks again ! Bernard

Hey RamiTP. (I like that abbreviation !) This is the cheapest place I've found for OEM stuff so far. I punched in '89 pathy with 3.0V6 (dont know exactly what you have but guessing) and it came up $100 each. http://www.maximumautoparts.com/NI_cat.html This place lists that same part (with same manufacturer) for $86 http://www.nissanmart.com/ And this place lists (no description) for $78 and is the only place that mentions 'front and rear'. http://www.Nissan-auto-parts-dealer.com/ If they are saying $85 labor thats 1-1.5 hours for both sides; how hard can that be Mr Sausage Finger Man ? I'd guess the right tools are more important than the size of your... digits. Looks like you could get this done in an afternoon for $150-$200. Seems a he!! of a lot better than $365+tax... Let me know what you do/how it turns out; I think mine could use replacing some time soon here. I wear XL gloves myself (which looks kinda funny on a skinny white boy) but the ladys like me.... Does your shifter move slighty, or is it something worse ? Bernard

Hey Jonsey. C-grats on the marrage, may it be a long happy one... I just got all my clutch parts today (hopefully start on it this week) and when I reassemble, I'll fiddle with the T-bars. I'll give you a heads up then; probable about 1 week. Be well. Bernard

Rami !! Thats where my stereo went ??? Tell me who sold it to you !!! Just kidding. I have an Eclipse (45 watt per channel) that came with the truck and god knows what speakers, but its plenty for me... Debating if my bass box goes into the Pathy or my VW Bug convertible... Bernard

Hey chuckeye. My rule of thumb is that if I see significant rust, I walk... Even if you can live with the body/frame rust, when you work on it bolts/parts will be frozen, will strip, break and be a general nightmare; even mechanics will charge extra. To me its not worth a price break, and there should be plenty of unrusted ones around. Good luck ! Bernard

Hey madkiwi. Yes, it very well could be the input shaft bearing, but I'll let more knowlegable people talk about that. I think mzxtreme has the right idea. To me, the ideal way to handle this would to have a tranny shop give you their diagnosis (if you are still not certain), and a quote to rebuild the tranny if you remove it. Remove the tranny and have it rebuilt, replace ALL clutch components and pilot bushing, resurface the flywheel... then put it all back together. Of course, this means you have the time/place/tools to monkey with it and another vehicle. This route would probably cost you $500-$700. Having a shop do it will cost the same for parts ($250+)+8 hours labor+tranny rebuild cost. Sometimes your decisions are made for you.... I can tell you where I found the cheapest OEM parts if you go that route. Whats this about 'the issues with the FS5R30A transmission where the oil level was too low, and added 1.5 qt of oil 18,000 miles ago.' ? I have only had my Pathy 1 month, and have not heard of/do not understand what the problem is. A brief explanation would be very much appreciated.... Good luck and tell us what the problem was. Bernard

Hey madkiwi. Sorry if I misunderstood, but I think I get it now. One more question, can you hear it when accelerating in those gears or does motor/exhaust noise drown it out or does it not exist ? I agree that it does not match t-bearing symptoms exactly. What I would do is find a moderate hill somewhere quiet and with low traffic. Shut the motor off, coast, use the clutch (obviously) and put it thru the gears and listen real well. Be careful tho !! If I had to guess, I'd say the issue is in the tranny, maybe bearings or syncros. Sorry if I'm scaring you but I'm only guessing, and I'm a home mechanic, not a true pro (although I do almost all my own work). I'll try to find a good shot of the tranny internals in my manual to get a better understanding... Let me know what you find. Bernard

If you fully depress the clutch, and thats the only time you hear it, yes, its probably the throw out bearing. It shouldn't matter if you are rolling or not, only if the bearing is being forced to spin under pressure. Mine makes noise after a cold start and eventually goes away other than always giving a shout bark when I shift from 1st to 2nd. I have 108K on the '95XE and the clutch will slip slightly then shifting hard at high RPM from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th uphill. You are probably fine for the trip to Reno; barking bearings can last thousands of miles, but I'd go easy on the shifting just because. Personally, it annoys me SO MUCH that when I hear it, it gets replaced. I bought all the parts in the bell housing for about $250, all OEM, and will probably work on it late next week. Shops seem to charge from $500 to $1500 with $900 to $1100 being common. 500 mile round trip to Reno ? You wouldnt happen to live in the bay area ? I do. Enjoy the trip. Bernard

Hey Perd. Glad you didn't mangle your truck or yourself ! Just tell me you were in the back 40 with the boys having a pissing contest and NOT on the road.... You have every right to risk limb and equipment.... not another's though. I'll assume the correct answer. Yes, please post pics. Bernard

Good info ! The front end on my 95XE is soggy and it is not just the shocks !! I have to drop the T-bars to do my clutch in a week or two, so I'm going to try it ! I'll let you know if anything snaps, cracks or colapses. Otherwise I'll just talk about how cool it is Bernard

I would like to ammend my previous post about the longer studs on the tire carrier. It seems that a previous owner had broken the welds on the original bolts(not studs) and put in longer ones, and used lug nuts with the top cut off, so this is not stock, but still easy. Also, the plate bolted to the carrier arm which the tire mounts on can be offset in the same manner, perhaps even drilling other holes to mount lower. Again, I dont know if this applies directly to the R50 (it very well might) but my earlier post was not accurate so I wanted to clarify. Good luck. Bernard

Just an afterthought (I know its a different animal again) but it may be something to check for if you and going the OEM tire carrier way... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=2388 Hopefully I'm confusing things/making an a$$ out of myself... Bernard

Hey there... This is out of a different thread for a '92XE "If your Pathy has a manual tranny, it has 4.375:1 gears. If it has an auto tranny it has 4.625:1 gears. The transfer case is a 2.02:1 ratio in 4-LO. A 235/75/15 is approximately 28.8" tall, and 31's came on a lot of stock Pathfinders, yes. Your Pathfinder probably has rear antilock brakes, yes. Anything else? *grin* posted by 88pathoffroad. " I'm guessing this is the same for 90-95 but 88pathoffroad seems to be the man to ask. Hope it helps. Bernard

Hey guys. I have a '95 XE with the stock carrier that I'm going to put a 10.5x31 tire on. While I know it a slightly different animal, I had the same concern about the flip rear window not clearing. Then I noticed the studs on the carrier are LONG ! 4-5 inches maybe. All you have to do is make 'spacers' out of thick walled pipe (read hacksaw and belt sander) to stand the tire off the carrier a bit and the glass should clear. I plan to machine mine (I'm a machinist) but the pipe would work the same. If you really wanted to get tricky you could even make different length 'spacers' so the top of the tire tilts outwards. I'm guessin maybe 10 degrees tilt is possible which is at least another inch or so. Seems like a cheap easy fix to me. Just thought I'd mention it... Good luck ! Bernard