Precise1

That caR50 is looking good, Mr Canadian/Brit/x-pat... Where is the blender and microwave though, I can't see them. The set up I was talking about is actually on a WD21, not an R50, but I did run 31' tires on that as well briefly. Both fit adequately stock on both vehicles, with minor adjustments/modifications. I switched back to the 265/70/15 Yokohama A/T tires on the stock alloys for the R50 to maintain mileage and ride quality, it is not used offroad. I think you got your answer from Mr Beatup, no? B

So more like 5'? (it is only a shift slip away) I agree, 1/2" ground clearance is not important and argued for better under-armor myself. Likewise with the overly wide tires in general, but in high flotation situations (aired down in soft sand or deep mud) just a little width goes a long way and can easily make the difference between driving out with a tug, or doing a lot of digging... That said, I don't run overly tall or wide tires (10.5x31"), I just run the best tread/compound I can for all of my possible needs. B

Just try to help the next guy and you are all paid up. Glad you got it all together and running right again. Did you change the T-belt? B

This. The stock 'chromie' rims for the WD21 are 6" wide and many people have run 10.5x31" tires on them, including myself, courtesy of the PO. Personally I thought they were a little pinched, but they fit and ran acceptably well. 265mm=10.43" so it is the same situation, but your rims are .5" wider... It might not be ideal, but it will work just fine. Don't go by what the manual/plaques say unless you bought new, go by what is on the vehicle... B

*stops rubbing lamp and puts it away* B

IIRC you only have the two connections at the starter, the main power and the solenoid. The third would have to be the Oil Pressure Sender as there is nothing else down there... B

Probably a dealership item. Go local or call Rob Lacy (Alkorahil here), his info is in the Classifieds/Services section. He's in Texas and will get it out to you ASAP. B

Honestly, sounds like you got a beat up one but once you get it sorted out, it should be quite reliable. As for the manual trans and rear end, as long as you have overfilled that tranny with GL-4 ONLY with 5.1 liters, it should hold together a long time. The rear end is considered stronger than a Dana 44 so again, fluids and don't worry... I like to think of it as an educating discussion... We have 2 Pathfinders amongst 5 cars and 2 motorcycles, with nary a payment. They might not all be running/registered/insured at once, but that isn't the point... Buy good used, do the work yourself and enjoy the benefits. B

Here are some pictures of an R50 with 10.5" wide tires mounted on 7" rims with 4" back spacing. 305mm=12" width.12" tread on 8" rims with 2.5" BS is going to stick way the hell out there, about 3" farther. (it's all in the math ) B

Your brakes are dragging or your bearings are not greased/too tight or some combo there of. I'd go with #1 off the bat as brakes dump a tremendous amount of heat into the system. (might have to do with your driving habits as well) I was going to a shop to talk about the front hub installation issue I was having when I had to do a panic stop on the freeway (60 mph to 10 ASAP). The hubs were still HOT 10 minutes later; that is a lot of Joules to distribute... B

It is in the Factory Service Manual, downloadable from the pinned thread in the Garage section... B

Correct, I saw the same thing today. ACDelco reman for roughly $200 w/o, $250 with... Good call. Only at full lock in reverse and that was on the inner wheel well plastic to the rear, and with a saggy suspension. Ours is the factory SE rack AFAIK, we bought it with 150k miles. As above, it seems to be more about the fender flares. Do you have them? I don't know what the Chilkoot is based off of, XE or SE. I'm sure Alkorahil in the Classifieds/Services section could answer that in a heart beat (he runs an online parts department and knows his stuff). One of the reasons cops/courts give sme latitude is because speedometers often have significant deviation from reality. From what you say, mounting 30" or 31" tires would make you within -2/+2 percent respectively, and that is more than can be expected. It is only 1/4" and 265/70/15 are almost as wide as 10.5x31" tires so it shouldn't be that critical. Your suspension height is probably the limiting factor... B

Ok, that is good and ruled out then. Cool, then you have twins to play with... In reality, tell her that cars, houses, etc only get worn from use and break down from neglect. There is no changing that other than having a constant car payment because you trade it in every few years and never have work done on it. In the long run, the Pathfinder will be far cheaper... B

Might want to talk this person into shipping then freight, strapped to a pallet or something... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/38391-98-nissan-pathfinder-se-oem-alloy-rims-for-sale-picture/ A 256/70/15 will fit, even with an aftermarket trailer hitch receiver; a 31" might not with my set up, it would be very close. If I get bored, I'll try a test fit for you... I test fit some 31" tires on what I believe are 7" wide, 4" backspacing Cragar Soft 8 rims like these. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crr-3975760 Here is a comparison of stock sized 265/70/15 on factory alloys and 10.5x31" on the steelies. The only rubbing I had was in reverse at full lock, and even that was mild and our R50 has saggy diapers stock suspension. I can't really answer that as I have no idea what amount you are talking of or if you even did the math right. 235/75/15 are basically 29" tires, 265/70/15 are 30" and 31" tires are obvious. There should be about 3.5% difference between each size, but manufacturers sizes vary considerably, and then throwing in tire wear... this is no exact science. B

It is better than a grinding in your rear end... Sorry, never messed with the rack, but I see that RockAuto has ACDelco reman for $200-250 if you want to avoid A1... B

While you are under there, check out your driveline U joints, if they are binding under load it will promote a wobble as well that shot bushings will only amplify. B

I came here to mention checking the bypass hose as well, and while you are there, you really should change the timing belt as well. It isn't that hard or expensive, but is critical and it doesn't sound like you know the last time it was done. It should be replaced every 105k miles FYI and there is a good write up in the Garage/How To section that will walk you through the process. As for the steering, I would jack up the front end and inspect for anything damaged or failing. Kingman, I know the starter/crank bolt removal trick, but can you describe tightening it the same way with the starter better? I don't quite follow that... Oh, welcome to NPORA! B

Is your breather hose in place/intact? B

I believe you are reading this correct, but can you post a picture of the actual spec sheet to be certain? Was it Firestone you went to? What I see from that is your right toe was way out of spec, almost as much as the entire allowable range (-.15* out, .2* range) and your left toe was almost perfectly centered within the range (+.02 with the same +/- range of the right, hence the +/-.01* VS +/-.02*). Toe, means in, so negative should mean the right tire was pointing out slightly. Did it drift or pull to the right? Steer ahead I assume means Castor? With excessive castor, the steering should feel twitchy possibly over reacting a little, with proper castor it should feel more stable and controlable. Yes, you had 2 specs that were out, so an alignment was appropriate. I don't know/think it was critical, but it was reasonable. The part that is missing is what the were measurements after adjustment. I am not an alignment specialist so if I got anything backwards, please correct me... B

Ahh, crap, you are right! Sorry about that, I cleared some space so get in touch if it isn't too late. You can email me at the addy in my profile as well... I'm in Santa Rosa which is about 50 miles North of San Francisco on Hwy 101, and about 20 miles East of Bodega Bay. Yeah, Yosemite is pretty awesome, even just to drive though. I'll PM you in case you have notifications turned on... B

Agreed, but they might be called NTK when you search for them. NGK=plugs, NTK=O2 sensors... B

Yep, headers and something like a Gibson or Flowmaster muffler, but I'd tend towards the more tame one. Old and slow is one thing, but old, slow and obnoxiously loud is another... B

Enjoy the time off and come back fresh... B

Yes, the filter and a gauge is the best set up, and important in my book. How else do you know how hot your tranny is running? Your one cooler should be sufficient, unless you are in high temps in the mountains. I'd say install a gauge first, installing or re-routing a cooler is easy... B

The problem that I see is that the fan only pushes air out up to somewhere around 25-30 mph, anything over that the air is passing through the radiator first and might be too warm to do a lot of cooling. Have you bypassed the radiator cooler? I believe the best set up is to have a filter, run it through the radiator cooler, run it to a cooler inf front of the radiator and back to the tranny. A temp gauge is also a good idea... B