Precise1

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21 Thats the ECU read out info... Didn't back read but it sounds like you are zeroing in too much... Check the ECU first. Then remember, the motor wants air, fuel, and spark, then timing, sensors and vacuum. Maybe I'm not helping but perhaps you are former one before the latter ?? Intake vacuum can be checked by something like wd-40... if the throttle increases where you spray, you have a leak. Vacuum control hoses are harder, they take visual inspection/replacement. Back up to where you KNOW basic engine needs are good, then isolate and test. B

Oops, sorry... I was just thinking about setting the existing bearings, not installing new ones. My bad... B

Hence the Sick part... B

Do the brakes squeal, and if so, is it from the metal of the pads rubbing ? If not, you can clean the rotors and calipers, scuff the rotors lightly(sandpaper), put in new pads with anti vibration goo on the back, bleed them and call it good. Thats a ghetto brake job and won't last as long as doing it right, but the pads will seat and work. I've done this several times long ago as a broke college student. If you pull the rotors, you don't need the locknut tool; a screw driver, hammer and LIGHT tappity tap will do the same thing. Loosen the set screws first if I remember right, so you'll need metric allens. The spring gauge is also unnecessary. Find something the right weight (3 lbs ? use your bathroom scale) tie a string around it and hang it tangent to the rotor, perpendicular to the ground to measure the 'tension'. All that said, buy a manual ! It is worth every penny and will tell you in advance basically what you are getting into. B

WOW, I had NO idea that they were plasic !! I wonder what kind... Maybe a tougher plastic can be used, but I whould Highly recommend Oil-lite bronze... Tougher than brass and oil impregnated for self lubrication... I suppose thats true, but hardly what I would call machining... Someone send me dimensions of the pieces the bushing rides on and the basic bushing geometry or an unabused bushing and a discription of the fit. Those would be simple to make on a hand lathe. I'll make a set for a guinne pig... B

LOL, what a name !! Go with the stainless and welded, especially since you are in road salt country... B

LMAO !! Makes sense though, unless the car is running really rich... :o Ok, educate me on that. I have heard many things that defy logic, but that one escapes me... It is better to weld a tank (leaking to top it off) filled with highly combustable fuel than water ?? B

I doubt it did any damage at all, especially if you took it easy. I've been loading up my truck moving every day since last week with about 500+ lbs a trip. It rides fine, but going home unladen it seems twitchy, loose and such. Moral of the story, preload on old bushings tightens them up !! Drive around with weight in it every day !! Seriously though, my old d920 king cab 4x4 hauled a 1200lb lathe with all the tooling (at least 1500 total), and was piled cab high with sod a few times. Sure, when I hit a bump the front end would float, but no damage other than taking the bow out of the leaf springs... B

LOL, I see no reason to be polite to thieves MZ... B

Yes, I read it all you little rascal. Thanks Red, you obviously thought about it... Talking to a few guys at work reinforced my memory. Yes, filling with water was the most common way, and the easiest. Perhaps before commonly available inert gas to purge with, but it's still often done. Getting rid of the water isn't that hard. There are fuel additives you can rinse with and that silly WD-40 stuff... Hmm, wonder what the WD stands for... sssh True, but apparently, the trick is to fill the tank and angle it so it is truely full and the filler neck is the highest point.... I'm no welder, but this is what I have heen told. Yes 94 Pathy, gas fumes can linger, and it doesn't take much to have a Hollywood style explosion (a cup of gas in an open 55 gallon barrel and an ignitor) tthat looks like a fireball. B

Sounds like you can change the T case, but no, it's not the easiest and they can be pricey unless you find a wrecker deal... That said, few people have had problems with their T cases (most of the gears/cases are pretty strong). Without being there, my guess would be rotten fluid and it never being used... Don't yell at me if thats not the case... Grind it for him, then talk about the price. B

Hydrogen is my choice, but probably the least likely. I'll post some links later so the more electrically knowledgable can input. B

I find it hard to believe someone would steal that and drive it around !! It's friggin unique and bound to be spotted. It must have been 'resold' somehow. Best of luck !! Just shoot the friggin thieves... Don't kill them, just a solid shoulder or leg shot. Then leave them there bleeding and screaming... B

Yes, some shops will try to take advantage when they can. The few times I go to a shop I tell them before hand that I'm a machinist and home mechanic and sometimes they STILL try to jack me around. I'll never understand that ! Working with someone experiences is the best way to learn, keep it up. Put a lid on it V6... B

There is an entire thread about how to shift into 4x4. Search for it, if you cant find it, I will. That said, 2x4 to 4x4 can be done on the fly up to 40 mph or so. 4x4 to 4x4 low you have to stop and (I think) be in neutral for the auto... The transfer case is purely manual. Did the PO ever use 4x4 ?? It could be as simple as that... I say tell them to replace the transfer case oil and put in the right stuff (2.4 qts dextron ATF) so you can try it again... That costs $20 time and materials. See if it is better. If they have an issue with doing that, walk away. Does it have an aftermarket tranny cooler ? Do you know the 90-95 range Pathfinders ? Do you need a basic checklist ? 191k is miles, but if it was maintained, it will keep running. $2500 seems top shelf though. I payed $5500 for a mint 95 with 110k on it in Cali. Where are you ? B

Yes, year/make/model and they should be able to ball park it fairly well. Tell them what you want, not just what can they do... They'll still want to see it though, but as you are basically stock, it shouldn't change much. B

Didn't mean you were going with a hammer and chisel... Sounds like you are working everything like I would. unccp hit on something. If it is just the j hook caught on the catch, perhaps if someone pushed inward on the rear hatch it would allow enough clearance to spring it free ?? B

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I agree with Casey... Go to a local shop or local chain ( a couple of shops) or a high performance place. You find the good work there and they don't cost (much) more if any. The only advantage of a chain in my book is if the muffler falls off in South Dakota, you can have them fix it, but I think the odds of that happening are greater if you go to a nation wide chain store who have $12.hr 'specialists'. B

Thats a little overkill and pretty friggin' optomistic MZ !! Agreed 88, thats a lot of work for 1 person, no matter how good and familiar ! The gravel driveway makes everything take longer also... Jacking up, where to place tools within reach without getting them dirty, moving the ghetto slider(cardboard) any time you you need to go down under... I've dealt with that too often for my taste ! Ability, tools and a place to work is a huge factor with doing it yourself, then there is time... Both the time you spend, and the time you can afford to have the vehicle undrivable... Do you have the time and can it sit a few days if something unplanned happens ? When it's a big job on the daily driver, I consider the free time I have, when a shop would have it done, how much the labor is and how much I would make working overtime on the job rather than wrenching. That usually makes the answer clear. All that said, I prefer to do it myself when feasible... One day turn around for a shop is awesome, provided they did a good job ! So, got that motor in YET Red ?? B

Ok, unless the latch mechanism a lump of rust, I'd say you either have a mechanical bind issue or you aren't seeing the big picture of the assembly. If it is bound, look for bent pins, missing c clips, washers, etc. That may indicate what is out of position. If you are trying to pry it open at the internal latch, make sure you check for secondary catches, tension springs, linkages that prevent free movement without the handle being pulled, that sort of thing. The mechanism is pretty simple, but is also designed so it will not spring open when you hit a bump, etc. Take a little time and trace/understand the mechanism before starting to poke at it, and I'm sure you'll get it. I have not messed with the pathy latch, but with other cars, after a few minutes of "hmm, wait, oh..." it was a piece of cake... B

Isn't the trick to weld gas tanks filling them with water ? I'm sure I've heard this is how it is to be done safely and easily... Regardless of the method, yes, pull the tank, drain it and take it to a welder, coater, whatever. That should set you up fine... B

Ditto to all the above and go with a a local muffler shop. $250 will get you stainless oversized pipes, magnaflow muffler and a chrome exhaust tip. Maybe new hangers also... B

I have the BFG's and they seem fine in all respects other than REAL mud... Go to the product review section and read up on the lengthy tire discussion there. It may answer your questions. B

LOL, was it you I was thinking of ?? Bolts ? Did the zip ties finally give ?? Yeah, the stuff seems to work VERY well without the weight/rust issues. The more I work with it, but better I like it. Looking forward to doing the underbody armor once I get a solid axle up front... B