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Precise1

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Everything posted by Precise1

  1. Do you have the special, lucky, magic Nissan spark plug removal tool? Yes, they are buried. That's why I just get a new truck instead... B
  2. There is no salt in NorCal, young Jedi, not even in winter... B
  3. That makes sense and is good to know. Thanks for posting that info!! B
  4. Yep, the 94 & 95 electronic clusters are known to have issues. I have had a speedo fail (completely0 in 1 and the tach tweek out as you describe in the other. I removed the clusters, built one fully functioning one and put that in my keeper truck. Oddly enough, the tweeker tach seems to have adjusted it's errant behavior and functions once again. Try removing the cluster, checking the connections and tightening the brass screws in the back (ground points). This may help. I believe the voltage regulator is also a culprit so if you know electrionics, check that. Otherwise, get a working unit from someone parting out a truck or a junk yard and install it... B
  5. It can't hurt to flush the tranny again, but no promises that it will do any good, the damage may already be done. I won't speculate as to how long it would work either. I didn't see anyone mention it so I will. Bypass the stock tranny cooler completely and install an aftermarket unit, the bigger the better. There are several write ups on it. I don't really agree with this. The tranny cooler is the bottom part of the radiator. If the radiator is hot, it limits how cool the tranny fluid can get, another reason why external coolers are superior... B
  6. *snort* Ok Elvis... That is how the PO mounted my tranny cooler (had some adhesive cushion pads inbetween the two) and it was suprisingly effective. I hard mounted it though, just because I'm like that... B
  7. I am definitely getting some bacon bandaids for work!! Hell of a find Dave!! B
  8. Yes, in the alternator. If it tested out fine, that's probably not the issue. I agree with Simon, I think you have bad wiring or connections somewhere. The truck should run for longer than 10 minutes with a new, fully charged battery even if the alt was completely dead. B
  9. Slick is the members name that has pictures/write up of that. Use her name in advanced search parameter modifiers. Alkorahil runs the web sales department of a Nissan dealership. He has good prices and will be able to tell you exactly what you need, usually with schematics. Look in the Classifieds/Services for all his info... B
  10. 2-3 feet is more travel than your truck has... B
  11. What does this equate to as degrees advanced using a timing light? Did you try a different MAF? The ECU occasionally fails, but not often. Only a few times that I can recall in 5 years. At least check the connection there?? B
  12. There have been some claims but it is very slight. I'll be swapping soon myself and will report if I notice this or better freewheel... B
  13. I recommend just putting longer hoses on the PS reservoir. There are a few threads on the BLs, one of them I recently added to with pictures and explanations of some things that I did. B
  14. What height lift, where did you get it and what questions do you have? B
  15. Just make sure you test them a bit for proper function... B
  16. I'd guess the alt is failing and may have prematurely killed the old battery. Hook up a volt meter and see what you get at idle, high idle and with the motor/ignition off. Readings should be aprox 12-12.5 volts, 13.5-14 volts and 12.5-13 volts respectively. This is a down and dirty test but usually accurate enough so you can choose what to have tested or replaced. B Forget to say, check all connections/grounds first...
  17. A trick to isolate squeaky bushings is WD-40. Spray some on a suspect bushing and see if the squeaking stops once it has worked in. If not, move to the next one. This is not a fix though, just trouble shooting procedure... B
  18. Precise1

    4 Issues

    Sorry, I don't know why I thought you had one of those relics... B
  19. Precise1

    4 Issues

    3) Idle should be higher at cold start, 700-800rpm warm. Sounds like you have something not working right. I don't know the TBIs well, but isn't there a cold idle valve or something?? Have you run the ECU codes? 4) 14mpg is bad. Driving habits or MAF/O2 issue? 2) I think the alt is getting tired. Yes, they put out less juice at lower RPM, so the decline you see normal but may be excessive. Check your battery connections and ground also. 1) Yep, burp it. The belt could be loose but I doubt that is the issue. 1/2 inch of deflection (back and forth total at the middle of the longest distance between pulleys with light force) is where I set belts then go back and tighten up if they bark at start up. Overtight belts will ruin bearings and bushings. B
  20. Yeah, I'd agree and no, I haven't seen one with a second terminal clamp. Unless you had the rare factory mounted flame throwers (heard they drew a lot of amps to ignite). B
  21. Clutch throw out bearing, I'll bet. There is a small channce it is the clutch/friction plate chattering when wet though. Is, your bell housing shield in place and in good shape? B
  22. It means that they have installed a body lift. 2 or 3" being most common. Have you dowloaded the FSM for your 94 yet? Try here or someone can burn you a CD. http://www.filestube.com/db1329cebe5cd5ee0...Pathfinder.html B
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